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Stuartarmytank

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About Stuartarmytank

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  1. Pump finally done. Some pictures that might be helpful for someone contemplating doing one. The test set up allowed me to check flow and pressure using a restrictor and pressure gauge on the output spout . Started at 12V to see that rotation and wiring were ok then 24V 432 Lp Fuel pump diesel.pdf
  2. There is a felt washer between the two front seals . I soaked them in moly grease . The rear bearing is a bronze bush . I sprayed it with moly cote and put moly grease in the void between the end of the armature and the top of the case plugged the hole with a felt seal to hold the grease in.
  3. the seals and rear bearing were available locally they are standard sizes. The front bearing is the impeller shaft housing , it needed a light hone as previous work had damaged it. assemble the armature into the forward pump housing. assemble the rear motor housing onto the field case (brushes out) then place that over the armature and secure with two screws.
  4. the studs I removed and the finished engine
  5. forget the last picture ...I put it in by mistake and cant figure out how to get rid of it
  6. Atleej I and my friend have done quite a few engines. We use Oxy on the casting bulge inside the crank case . While one is applying pressure to the stud extractor the other should heat the crank case. It does not require so much heat so that it would damage the crankcase or change the alloy properties. You will need heat to refit the stud or you will never get it down. If you use lock tile the next poor soul will have even more trouble than you getting it out. No need to seal it with anything as the corner studs are not a return path for oil . If they are left without anything but a little thixotropic wax of some sort ( Ardrox) they are easy to have a look at on a regular basis. I you grind a slot then the oil on the rocker gear will leak out through the corner studs...I don't think that is a good idea. Best just paint the studs and brush them down with preservative. Seriously when you get the temp right they crack and come out easily .
  7. EMR Pwr P 424/1 is the manual number....
  8. The corner studs break due corrosion . Getting them in and out requires heat on the base with the banks off . There was a mod that had a seal between the bank and the block ... that made the situation worse as it trapped any moisture CB in . Best apply a thixotropic wax from time to time to prevent corrosion . other studs don’t have the problem as they are the return path for rocker gear oil . I used specialized drills to make a hole and inserted a stud remover . With heat apply pressure to remover ... when temp right it will crack and come out easily . if you don’t use heat when replacing you will never get it down to the correct height ... bloc the to top of stud .
  9. Hi anyone have a lead or copy on the diesel low pressure fuel pump manual /handbook overhauling one gina
  10. use National Archives of Australia search the collection. The bar code is enough to get you there . There is a PDF download symbol click it and you have the plans .
  11. Plans and specifications for Armoured Fighting Vehicles] Contents date range 1941 - 1943 Series number MP392/8 Click to see which government agency or person created this item. Control symbol 5 Citation NAA: MP392/8, 5 Item barcode 364517 Location Melbourne Access status Open Date of decision 23 May 1985 Physical format PAPER FILES AND DOCUMENTS (allocated at series level) Extent 4 cm Date registered 12 Sep 1992
  12. Joined a while back but time to say Hi I am interested in Australian Armour, Ford Gun Tractores 25Pdrs and Limber to suit Chasing down accessories for the 25pdr at the mo Gina
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