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grey on top

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  1. Hi, If it is the socket on evilbay , seller strausfs, it is missing the rear metal cover which protects the stud connectors. When I purchased some parts from the USA I had to pay 20% uk tax and a Customs and Excise handling charge before the parts were released for delivery. These were new parts but I have heard rumours that if the items are listed as used/secondhand/antique etc they only attract a small amount of tax - but don't quote me. Maybe someone else can add to this.
  2. Try phoning Dallas Autoparts UK. I know they have loads more parts than they show on their website, especially less popular and odd bits. The same goes for Jeeparts. Give one of them a call, I now they are always happy to help. This will get you the price for a repro part. If you are thinking of having a trailer the socket that will be functional, being an electrical component sometimes an original part can give you problems with corrosion and poor contacts especially if you intend to keep 6 volt. A trailer socket cover which goes inside the tool locker is £18 from Joe's Motor Pool. I am not on commission from any of these companies but have just spent shed loads of money doing my restorations.....I don't dare keep count!! Keep posting photos as work progresses, am always keen to see other people's projects.
  3. The harder part to find is the trailer socket cover plate which I eventually found at Joe's Motor Pool I have always found the staff at Jeeparts, Dallas and Joe's all very helpful.
  4. Hi Steve, I've been following your restoration. Looking back to the photos of your windshields were there traces of yellow primer? I'm just curious about whether they used yellow as well as red primer. I also noticed that the inner windscreen handle at the bottom of the frame is screwed on, every other one I've seen is welded on. Can anyone shed any light? thanks
  5. Hi, During WW2 did they ever use yellow primer instead of red? thanks
  6. I got the paragraph below from the website mentioned by MatchFuzze above. https://armyvehiclemarking.com/blog/2018/03/22/alliedstar/ The “yellow” circle adopted during Operation Overlord / D-Day 1944 was mostly used by General Patton’s troops. Who were also at the 1943 Italian Sicily campaign / Operation Husky. Even Gen. Patton himself had a yellow circle band everywhere in Europe on his vehicles, like his Dodge Command Car .Maybe I misunderstood the above paragraph - does it mean Patton's personal vehicles? ...and maybe not the ones he used in Northern Europe? I stand corrected Thanks everyone for your contributions
  7. So, reading the link from MatchFusee the circle was added to prevent the plain white star and the german cross being confused by allied pilots. The star and circle with gaps is called a lazy star as it was applied using a stencil. It seems that the gaps should have been filled in. Maybe because they had time to prepare for D-Day more vehicles had complete circles? Having looked at many achieve photos a lot of vehicles on D-Day did have the full circle although in pictures after D-Day I have seen the lazy star. I am only wondering about the star because I only want to paint my hood once only to be told by someone that I have got it all wrong. Just to confuse things General Patton had all the vehicles under his command have a yellow circle - with or without gaps I wonder!!!
  8. Hi, There are two types of invasion stars applied to the front/hood of vehicles. There is the star with broken circle surround or the star with complete circle. My understanding is that the broken circle is the generic invasion star and the complete circle is the Normandy/D-Day invasion star. Am I correct? thanks
  9. I'm restoring a MB and have fitted a MV Spares wiring set from Dallas (I think about £265) and got on fine. It all looks very neat and tidy replacing the previous birds nest of bodges.
  10. I also got my MV Spares kit from Dallas and I think I paid £265. I have also purchased some bits from the USA and had to pay 20% import duty. MV Spares is Australian but I guess the tax won't be any different.
  11. Hi Steve, I did the same thing and fitted a buzzer because when I had a tally light I never used to see it. Then fitted a switch to the dash for the indicators fed from permanent +volts so the indicators function irrespective of the light switch position. I personally have used AES for wiring and headlights etc and then Classic Car LEDs for indicators. Got the buzzer off ebay. www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk www.classiccarleds.co.uk
  12. hi Steve, I would recommend buying a complete wiring kit for your jeep and as Jerry says it will come labelled with all the fittings/connectors. I purchased a MV Spares kit , I think about £250 but worth it. If your wiring is original the insulation will have perished or it will have been modified over the years leaving you with a rather messy set of wires so for me I would replace it. For your headlights I feel you need to think about what you are going to do about indicators. I wanted to keep the correct look to my jeep and did not want to add extra indicator units so I modified the front convoy light units with an amber LED bulb. For the headlights I then bought a standard 5 1/4" reflector which takes a standard H4 headlight bulb and a sidelight bulb - it takes the same size bulb as your dashboard lights. For the rear indicators I modified the rear convoy marker lights of the rear clusters and again fitted an amber LED.. By re-assigning some of the wires in the looms I only had to add one extra wire at the front and was able to use an in keeping period fabric covered wire. Good luck
  13. Hi Jerry I notice a GPA lurking in the back of the photos! Also you have plenty of space to work, I'm very envious.
  14. I have silver on black flexible magnetic plates so I can take them off at shows.
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