Zuffen

I can't see any reason not to try the swap.

If done with a bit of care it can be fully reversible back to the manual shift if needed/wanted.

I would think an auto out of a 4 cylinder would be up to the task and hopefully small enough to fit without chopping the Jeep up.

I don't think what others think matters.  If your friend gets to enjoy his Jeep that's the important thing.

My Father wore brown boots for the entire Second World War.

He took a size 3 shoe and no Australian Army black boots would fit him so he had to wear Women's boots.  He was a RADAR Tech.

The guy in brown boots is what I would call short.

I agree with Ruxy.

Put it back in the press, load it up enough that it can't escape then clamp it.

You're right your "bits" are valuable and fragile.

I was going to suggest a large Jubilee clamp around it for safety sake.

You have to wonder what devious mind thought up such a complex casting back in the day.

Great effort. 

You also now have spare left hand thread wheel nuts.

Too many VW Beetles for 1948.

Production was miniscule for a few years after the war but they are quite common in the footage.

Grease would be my way forward.

give it a try, nothing to lose.

These guys https://agaus.com.au/product/red-fibre-sheet/ say they can custom make red fibre gaskets.

Perhaps you could order a length of circular material you can machine?

I don't think you can change the pivot point on the selector lever and have it all still work as it should.

Because the bottom of the selector lever has been shortened you need to look elsewhere in the linkages to find where you can shorten another shaft/lever to compensate for the shortened selector lever.

The only place I can see is the lever that operates the drop shaft to the lever that enters the transfer case. 

If this was shortened by the appropriate amount you would end up with the correct throw on the shaft for the correct movement of the selector lever.  Plus the detents at the pivot point on that lever would still work as they were designed.

I've had a similar situation on a Nissan Patrol transfer case where I had to play around with ratios of the actuating levers to make it work how I wanted.

I agree with your comments on modifications, the knock on effect is high.

I would lower the mounting point on the top lever of the transfer where the actuating rod is attached at the clevis.

Your photo has me confused.

I hope the first sentence makes more sense.

Could I suggest making a fitting to engage the clevis of the top shaft (the one with the detents on it) to relocate the pivot point of the shaft lower down the shaft.

This would compensate for the shortened lever.

It wouldn't need to be irreversible and well within your talents.

It sounds as though the crank ratios are too low.

I would try moving the end of the throttle cable to the hole you have the return spring in and put the return spring at the top and see if that helps the pedal ratio.

If that works make a proper job of it rather than the bodge I suggested to try it.

I will admit I'm mystified by the second and third photos as to how the double hinged shaft moves the throttle cable in and out.

I'm with Richard.

Cut (almost) through one side of the inner race, and split it and things will look better.

The article Cel linked, suggests one may be in the Netherlands.

As the bearing is knackered why not use a 1mm slitting disc in the angle grinder and cut a few slices into the inner race.  This could/should remove some tension from the inner race.

Then using a socket (or equivalent) that fits over the axle try and drive the bearing further onto the axle with a sledge hammer. 

This should break the rusted joint and then allow the hydraulic puller to remove it.

I like the tape on the flor as a guide to reverse parking.

It wouldn't be easy to reverse in there.

All that work and it looks just like it did a year ago.

Well done.

I've used an old fashioned copper headed soldering iron as a heat sink.

They are heavy chunks of copper and are readily available, used, work a treat.  Even have a handle to hold them. 

You can never have too many spare parts.

In Australia we've been using E10 (and even E85) with minimal impact on the average vehicle owner.

People who had cars older than 15 years at the time of introduction had some issues with rubber products, but these vehicles were approaching the end of their effective lifecycle. 

For older collector cars or Military Vehicles it's a simple matter of spending a few Dollars or Pounds to replace the rubber lines in the fuel system, the pump diaphragm and perhaps give the carburettor on overhaul ensuring everything is replaced with modern Ethanol resistant products.  How many metres or feet of hose are we talking about on the average MV?  Not much at all.

Our older vehicles won't suddenly melt down into a puddle of scrap because E10 is used.

I put Anti-Ethanol people in the same category as Anti-Vaxers.  People listen to too many horror stories created by the uninformed/uneducated/scare mongers on the Internet and accept it as Gospel.

What an achievement.  You deserve to look at her and smile.

Just go 3 phase.

Yes it will cost but will be worth it over the years with less problems and you can then use any 3 phase equipment you want.

I'm in Sydney also and 3 phase may cost up front but you will be way ahead over the years.

Australia has the best outback medical services in the World.

The Royal Flying Doctor has been treating patients anywhere they can land a plane all over the bush for since 1928. 

It treats almost 400,000 patients a year in either clinics, or flying to Stations (very large farms) and anywhere there is need for a Doctor.

The are many places you will see a sign stating the RFDS use the road as an airstrip and they have right of way.

On the trailer problem, I've done a huge amount of outback travel and I wouldn't have tried the trip with a squirrelly trailer.  priority one would be get the trailer sorted first.

I've used a similar product (Por15) on 3 tanks over the last 10 years.

The first tank failed about two weeks ago and I'm replacing the tank as once the sealant is installed it basically can never be removed, which means you can re-seal the tank.

Of the other two, one was de-commissioned after two year sand may still be perfect.

The last one is still motoring along but is only 3 year sold.

Would I use it again? most likely no.  I'd rather have a new tank built professionally as it would be cheaper and easier in the end.

I've just had a POR15 tank repair fail after 9 years.

The problem is once it's been done it can't be resealed by the same method.

I can replace my tank (it's an 80litre car tank) without much trouble or cost but I have 3 other treated tanks and now I'm starting to worry.

I must get myself a T shirt!