Zuffen

When I did my tank I just put a plastic bag over the fill tube and a hose clamp around it to keep the slosh in. I don't inspect my tank. If I walk into the garage and find a 100 litres of fuel on the floor I then know I have a problem.

I have one tank sealed with POIR15 and after 6 years it's holding up well.. The tank is filled with the highest Octane fuel I can buy. I recommend it strongly.

Phosphoric acid. Read the side of a can of Coke. We all drink it with little side effect, apart for getting fat! It's a well known rust remover.

I'd suggest the sludge is predominantly emulsified oil from when the sump was full of water. If you're going to slosh the fuel tank why do the sump at the same time. An alternative would be to paint the inside for the sump with a sealing coat of whatever is good on alloy.

I think these guy's could lower the garage floor and build a magnificent lifting rail bridge for the minature railway. I'm not too sure anything is beyond them.

I'd like to see the spiral ducts on the intake replaced with something more substantial as any holes negates the first filter and also lowers intake air level into the dust zone. Seen too many engines ruined by dust ingestion here in Australia. Big improvement in performance.

If the tank only has a very minor leak why not re-slosh it with whatever you used last time. Assuming it's minor it should seal up easily. I'd contact the manufacturer/distributor for advice. Cost nothing and won't blow up in your face and will be heaps quicker than dismantling the tank. If you do dismantle you basically have to re-slosh it anyway..

The ADI after the AUS letters could stand for Australian Defence Industries which is the main internal supplier of Military Weapons within Australia. It also exports target equipment to (at least) South Africa.

I'd treat this like a leaky fuel tank. Remove the sump, clean the inside and use Por15 to seal the entire sump. I had a leak in the diff housing on a modern and painted the outside of the housing with Por15 black paint, not chassis paint. Hasn't leaked in 5 years of being beaten on. Whilst it would have been great if you made your intended deadlines at least now the truck may well be finished to look at, rather than not quite there. I congratulate all of you on an impressive effort and I've certainly enjoyed your journey.

At least you won't run out of beer with two kegs strapped to the side of Mollie! Is there any reason you put the tyres up there and not mount them under your rear deck/tailgate and use a lightweight winch to open and close the rear deck/tailgate.

Andy, If you have an iPhone use it to give you the angles. They are as good as a decent spirit level.

The strange device is a puller to remove a pulley from a shaft. The two legs go around and under the pulley and the threaded shaft presses it off by winding. The legs can slide to allow different sized pulleys to be pressed.

I would be re-machining the pistons and leave the bores alone, other than a light hone if they need it. This would bring then now seasoned pistons back into shape and also allow them to be machined to the running fit. You can't recreate the block but new pistons are easier as has been demonstrated. The BMW Formula 1 engine blocks were apparently peed on by the Engineers as the urine has a nitriding effect on the cast iron.

Gordon, I'll second the ring problem. I wouldn't like to use any rings out of cylinder 2 and probably 3 as well. For the cost of a couple of sets of rings it could save a lot of heartache and work.

Ben, and the lovely Apprentice, Well done. I've followed your journey and I'm in awe of your abilities and efforts. One good thing the engine stopped slowly rather than lock up so low fuel does sound reasonable. Looking forward to your next instalment.