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About philb

  • Rank
    Warrant Officer 1st Class
  • Birthday 05/06/1949

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  • Location
    North Dorset
  • Interests
    Trials riding, woodwork
  • Occupation

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  1. Clive, The Ferret does seem to have an alternator. Any idea where the ignition fuse/cutout is? Phil
  2. I don't know. I'll try to find out next week.
  3. Thanks Clive. Where are the fording caps? Our panel does not seem to have them. Phil
  4. A pal of mine has just bought a Ferret and I'm trying to help him get it running. With a pair of good batteries all the electrics work except that the oil and generator warning lights are off and the starter circuit does not work when the ignition switch is on. We have EMERs but they seem to describe earlier (I guess) versions of the generator panel which we think have a fuse for the ignition circuit. Our panel does not seem to have fuses anywhere. So, my question is: how is the ignition circuit protected and what do I have to do to energise it? Any help appreciated. Phil
  5. but what size Ape do you attach to the Tommy bar?
  6. Thanks Richard. That's the first time I've come across a sensible way to accurately pre-stress bolts in small engine construction.
  7. Thanks Clive. Any mention of the big end figures? The manual we have is a disorganised reprint of a cocktail of EMERs, very descriptive but short on useful info. You seriously tried to apply 450 ft lbs? Report to the headmaster's office for a good whacking.
  8. Could someone please tell me the torque settings for the B40 big-end nuts, main bearing cap nuts and the flywheel stud nuts? As far as we can see (maybe not far enough?) the manual does not mention them. Cheers, Phil
  9. Looking at the spec for an XJ6 4.2 starter motor, a hot start may take as little as 100A but a cold winter start can draw 500A. so it's not easy to specify a series resistor to drop form 24v to 12v. The resistor would have to dissipate roughly the same power as the starter was taking - so maybe 5kW. Mild steel would double its resistance for a temperature rise of 200°C (someone check my maths?) , another complication (unless it starts very quickly). My conclusion, it's not simple. Sorry. Clive?
  10. ... and the AEC wheels have extra holes, to clear the brake drum studs.
  11. I just came back from the noggin, nosh and nattter, I guess you didn't make it? Phil
  12. If it's any use, this seems to be the same problem "ArtistsRifles" (Neil) is having. Two heads better than one?
  13. The linings do look good but the adjusters are on/near the last holes. There are three levels of adjustment: 1 the holes in the arm, 2 the position of the arm spline on the camshaft, 3 (if the linings are quite worn - yours don't seem to be) fitting packing plates (various thicknesses were available) under the shoe ends. The important thing is that, given the slack is taken up, the cams don't rotate more than about 45° from the closed position - or they risk going over-centre and dropping the shoes or locking the wheel. If the linings are quite new, maybe the current setup is what the fitter found to be best to start with. I believe that the linings should be 3/4 inch thick when new. Hope this helps. Phil
  14. Neil, But.. if it's the inlet valve that's leaking, which I'll guess is the most likely (where crap enters the foot valve), then the air will leak out of the foot valve body. I don't think it can leak to the outlet (with any pressure) when the pedal is up because the exhaust valve is open - venting the brake line to atmosphere. Prepared to be corrected by Militant buffs. Shields up. Phil
  15. You are indeed and it was very nicely written, thank you.
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