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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/24/2019 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    A Genie! Gosh that made me laugh. Nothing quite so exciting really. Here is a picture of the store room.
  2. 4 points
    Sorry, I was not responding to any implied criticism, just my frustration at Photobucket black mailing me. I have just updated page one of the Thornycroft and nearly finished the Peerless thread. There are about a further 4,650 photos for me to replace, so I better get back to it then. Interestingly, these threads still attract a great deal of interest and it would be a shame to loose it all. Very sadly, a great deal of other threads and photos will have been lost. Anyway, normal services will be resumed as soon as possible. .
  3. 3 points
    Hi Ian, They look great, I like the toothed ring for the ABS sensor on the wheel in the middle of the picture 😁. David
  4. 2 points
    I'm convinced that a trip to 'the stores' actually involves rubbing a lamp to summon a genie with access to a seemingly inexhaustible supply of obscure 100+ year old lorry parts... πŸ˜‚
  5. 2 points
    Evening All, I thought that I would do a pre-Christmas update. I have been concentrating on the wiring, a bit odd you may think as there are more pressing jobs with the drive etc but I needed something that wasn't complicated and that I could dip in and out of. I am glad that I did, as there were a lot of holes to drill, clips to make and trunking to run and head scratching to do. There is a section of flexible trunking that runs in front of the driver, around the peddle area. I had thought that it was part of the wiring but I am now not so sure, as I have identified the wiring route and it doesn't use that section of trunking. However I have used it to run the gearbox kickdown switch wiring in, as it runs in the adjacent area. The wiring is now complete and tested but I have made use of a lot more flexible trunking than the original. All the wires in the original appear to be black, I have used colour coded wires but where they can be seen I have jointed onto black extensions. I have left the wires long enough so that they can be pulled out of the end of the trunking so that the various colours can be identified as they join the black ends. The interior of the hull contains light sockets for the magnetic work light as well as adjustable station lights. So far, I have been able to identify the location of two sockets, one by the driver and one in the turret and two station lights, one in the turret and one by the radio operators position. I would have expected to find three of each so I will keep on looking. Work light location next to the driver I posted a question on another forum with refence to the station lights and amazingly one of the various styles is still produced, but for an automotive application. I had to make the work light sockets. The sockets are standard DIN sockets pressed into the housing but the spade connections had to be altered. In situ with the work light plugged in.
  6. 2 points
    I recently had some time to spare at work, so I thought I'd run AP2515A Vol.III, Mechanical Transport Vehicles Complete, dated May 1946 through the scanner. It essentially lists all of the MT vehicles, trailers and associated bodies, in use with the RAF at the time. Interestingly, some of the chassis/complete vehicles have the contract numbers listed and for many of those the chassis number ranges covered by each contract are included. Also included at the end is the first amendment list, from January 1947. If it's of interest, we also have the second edition of May '52 and the fifth edition from April '64 Apologies if there is a better place to put this. AP2515A 1946.pdf
  7. 2 points
    I replied to a earlier thread on this subject and at that time could not add any thing to it other than what i knew at that time since then l have been put to gether a list of RAF MU's AAW's AVD BVD RVD and there locations several things have come to light concerning the numbers allocated to them one location can have two or three different numbers on the same site or in a area covered by one area command BURN near YORK and BARLOW near SELBY had the same 41 AVD were is this taking us well up to now with what i already knew i have found one hundred locations and B42 was located at WALLINGTON in the uk ps at the same time DIAMOND Ts were under going rebuilds at the same time
  8. 1 point
    This is the connection to the radio outlet box (just a plain metal junction box) located on the inside of the body below the passenger all ACM 1 and 2 bodies were fitted with it as standard from MB 217543 March 1943 onward GPW's would have followed on at about the same time. Pete
  9. 1 point
    I don't know what your rebuild plans are, but after stripping mine, I cleaned up all the small parts, oil filter housing, footman loops, pedals etc, and repainted them. They were then wrapped and boxed out of the way. When the main rebuild started, all those parts were completed, ready to be fitted when needed. I ended up using two and a half 5 litre tins of paint sprayed. I started with two 5 litre tins but towards the end of the project it was clear another would be needed which also gave me some for future touch ups.
  10. 1 point
    Ahhh, now here is a story, originally i was attracted to the 42GPW which was ok i guess, after speaking to mike he informed me 75% of the imports the get now are Ford tubs and Willys were getting harder to source (amazing because more were built) The Jeep generally is more original to its factory day and is in sounder condition, minor work to the side panels/floor joint the footwells already repaired to a good standard rear floor is sound just a bit in the tool storage to work on, i listened carefully to the advice given by the guys that long term this would be a decent option, I am as you know somewhat green, this is my material to work with and hopefully we will get on fine.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    February 2020. Not too much progress lately due to working outside in the cold mainly! Few parts needing repair, few parts blasted and primed.
  14. 1 point
    It's not your fault Lex! I've been here many times before.....and far worse! But at my age I wouldn't want to take them on again. I've still got the same perseverance and determination. But while the mind is willing, sometimes the body is a bit weak.πŸ˜‰ Ron
  15. 1 point
    Thanks for that, but the link worked fine for me, Its quite amazing seeing the man who actually sunk Vandyke,
  16. 1 point
    Assuming that it is Ex MoD and that you live in the UK, have you tried:- A Freedom of Information request:- https://www.gov.uk/make-a-freedom-of-information-request The Defence Electronics History Society:- http://www.dehs.org.uk/
  17. 1 point
    The so-called frontline bikes were limited in the main to BSA, Matchless, Ariel and Norton, and all used in N Africa. Dont forget that the Matchless G3WO preceding the G3L has girder forks and its a nice (comparatively) lively ride, with OHV engine, though rarer (and more expensive)....as is the Norton. Latter is a pretty antequated design cf the Matchless and BSA and parts are more difficult/expensive to source. The Ariel is also a decent lively riding bike, also with OHV engine (and girders). They are all simple bikes made to be worked on with none a lemon. The Matchless is a bit more fiddly to work with but hardly taxing. As you are not that fussed about which frontline bike you want, probably the best course of action is just to find one of those in good, complete condition at mot silly money. And when you do, ask back here re the specific bike before you buy, as it might just save you much heartache and hassle! Motorcycles purporting to be complete and original frequently are offered at top dollar. They can look very nice.......and be very wrong! The cost of putting such dogs right can be eye watering.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Looking good chaps πŸ™‚
  20. 1 point
    Changing from Fwd to Rev and visa Versa on the transfer box was always hit and miss on CVR(T). Try engaging it while stopping the engine. I.e. with the engine running move from fwd to rev or other way around and while pulling or pushing the lever switch off the ignition at the same time. You should feel the lever move fully into the engaged position. That was the drill we used to have the drivers do if they had the same problem.
  21. 1 point
    Only in my experience,. I'm not an expert, others on here are far more qualified. As far as I am aware the XZL have in effect replaced XL in military use, I suppose if the Fox was still in service it would be fitted with XZL. The XL is probably more biased to off road and seems to wear faster on Tarmac but is a good all round tyre. If it were me and not intending to do big miles I would stick to XL. They are correct for the vehicle and look right. If it's down to driving a lot and road performance then the more modern XZL. In a perfect world a set of XL for show and XZL for driving around. Just like having winter tyres for your car, a tad more expensive though. Iain
  22. 1 point
    Early 1944 Ariel WNG 350 cc.Carefully restored to current condition, using genuine and NOS parts, over a period of many months.Starts and rides well - ideal for D Day.Some spare parts included.Offers around Β£7000
  23. 1 point
    LOL, i don't doubt it for one second. Short of pictures of a grand-dad driving it home from the beach probably impossible to prove as well
  24. 1 point
    Hi Pete I will check the paint colour/ shade with the other prop flanges next time Regards Jonny Garwood
  25. 1 point
    I have been researching London buses in WWI for many years and have written a book on it. I live in Colchester just a short way from you. I have seen your Daimler lorry at the Chalk Valley show. I would love to come and see it. I have drawings of the chassis and many photos of the Daimlers in service and the markings used. The Daimler buses were used by the Royal Marine Transport Company at Antwerp and then they were transferred to the army as the 16th Auxiliary Omnibus Company which used the Britannia penny badge which is incorrectly used in the Airfix kit of the B-type. Further detail in my book Ole Bill - London buses in the First World War. I gave a copy to Colchester Library so it should be easy to get it to read. The London Transport Museum has restored a B-type bus and has some of the moquette material to cover the lower deck seats. They would also have templates for the upper deck seats? Try writing to Chris Nix at the LTM.
  26. 1 point
    Welcome Robin from another Robin. Hope you find your vehicle's history
  27. 1 point
    50 RB 34 was in a allocation of numbers 30 RB 71 T0 72 RB 03 for BEDFORD QLD trucks
  28. 1 point
    Dave is obviously a great Craftsman! Tony
  29. 1 point
    Andy, A Roadrailer trailer? Think that was the name. I recall building a model kit of one about 50 years ago, with an AEC tractor unit. Sorry to hijack the thread, I take great interest in this Dennis restoration, well done Ben. regards, Richard
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    We have enjoyed many years at the show but feel the last couple of years the footfall has been slowing down so are going to try some other shows. We will be attending The Yorkshire Wartime Experience - it's a great show, with a lovely atmosphere! We will also be attending The Victory Show in Leicester for the first time! As always, anything that we supply can be ordered either over the phone or on our website! If anyone can suggest a military show for us to attend we would be open to taking a look! βš“
  33. 1 point
    Many Thanks to Richard Farrant for the many message exchanges and brain picking! List of parts 8 Slotted nut (incorrectly numbered in spares book - should be 48?) 47 Tab Washer 46 Washer 45 O ring 44 O ring 43 Output Drive Coupling 42 Oil Seal 40 Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder 39 Bearing 38 Bearing Inner Spacee 37 Bearing Outer Spacer 36 Inner Lock Ring Retaining Tab Washer 35 Spacer 34 Steering Hub inner slotted lock ring 33 Steering Disc Hub 32 Oil seal 22 Gearbox Steering Hub Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder 23 Bearing 24 Spacer 25 Spacer 26 Roller Bearing 27 Roller Bearing outer track retainer 13 Steering hub drive The O rings are BS 120 and BS 131 however I believe BS 131 should be BS 133 The Outer Oil Seal AS33726237VIT42 DOUBLE LIP - The British Spares book gives metric measurements for this seal that are nonsense, no seal can be matched to these measurements The Inner Oil Seal 117mm x 142mm x 12mm DOUBLE LIP All seals and O rings should be Viton and all Oil seals should be double lip. Do not waste time using Nitrile Seals. The British MOD are using PTFE seals, they are highly expensive and not needed for MV collector use (unless you intend going to war) The oil seals and O rings can be obtained from Barnwells Manchester. Special Tools needed:- Motorcycle suspension castle socket 6170 – This will need to have the internal castles ground back slightly Drive Shaft puller – it may be possible to adapt/modify a 3 leg puller Inner Lock Ring IMPACT socket – Special Tool! ¾” drive (contact me for info) to remove item 34 Possibly 1500Nm impact driver to remove item 34 Procedure to replace outer oil seal. Remove gearbox out of vehicle, drain all oil, leave the brake caliper in place. Knock back tab washer item 47 Using the 6170 castle socket remove the slotted lock ring, to prevent the Drive coupling moving insert a suitable drift into one of its three holes and let it rotate against the brake caliper. Remove item 47 Fit puller and pull off drive shaft coupling against centre shaft. The washer item 46 can be recovered when the driveshaft coupling is removed. Remove the bearing retainer item 40 lever out oil seal item 42 (Note to remove the bearing retainer remove the 6 retaining screws, using 2 x ¼” unf bolts screw into the housing in the threaded holes provided. Recover the bolts after the housing is extracted) If there is a dust cover fitted to the bearing remove it, since it’s not needed and should not be fitted. At this point the outer seal can be replaced and if the inner seal is not to be replaced then reassembly can begin. If the inner seal is to be replaced go to Inner seal replacement. Examine the seal surface of the drive coupling, if it has a groove, as confirmed by a finger nail fit a speedy sleeve shaft repair (see Youtube), the shaft may have a polished ring where the seal has rubbed, this is fine as long as no groove can be felt with a thumb nail. Use Blue Hylomar to seal the bearing housing, use blue thread locker to lock the retainer holding screws and screw in using a sutable HAMMER impact wrench to tighten. Grease liberally the oil seal, grease liberally the drive shaft coupling, fit to the splined shaft and knock in using a soft drift, such as aluminium, brass or nylon. Fit the two O rings, on the inner (smaller) O ring use a smear of silicon gasket maker. Fit the washer, 46, smear grease on the lip where the outer O ring fits, smear grease on the outer face of the washer, tighten the slotted nut, and then remove it. Fit the lock tab and grease the outer face Refit the slotted nut and tighten – WARNING, if overtightened it may destroy the locking tab. Knock over two of the lock tabs into the slots in the slotted nut. Left Viton Seal, Centre Nitrile seal with gaiter spring, old nitrile seal with steel casing and spring fingers - maybe found in Belgian gearbox get rid ASAP Left to right: Drive shaft coupling extractor, drive shaft coupling lock ring retainer socket, lock ring tab washer, impact socket to remove inner slotted ring 3/4 drive. Bearing retainer and oil seal holder removed, clearly visible is the bearing, which still has it's dust cover fitted - should have been removed!
  34. 1 point
    Could be weak springs in centrifugal clutch and it is dragging at 600 rpm, hence the grinding noise when trying to to shift forward/ reverse
  35. 1 point
    Like this '32 BB but with a different cab configuration
  36. 1 point
    The one at the front centre could possibly be an early thirties Ford, maybe a BB, the bigger version of this;
  37. 1 point
    As I was not inclined to pay Photobucket the $1,000 a year ransom for my photos they have blurred and watermarked them all. I do have backups and will try to replace them but this will take me an awful long time to complete. I will start with the Peerless ones. A downside is that it is now impossible to get the captions to match up, but I am sure that you will all work this out. If you need to see any photo specifically please let me know and I will treat that one as a priority. Thanks
  38. 1 point
    Have you looked at the front end, a portal axle with bevel gear drive in line with the king pins? The steering box drives a prop shaft that runs backwards to a right angle drive with a Pitman arm to a drag link which connects to a bell crank on the axle rather like a WW2 Jeep. Two track rods then connect the bell crank to the steering knuckles.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Alternatively, you could make something up using Belleville washers or even laminate some 1/4" rubber and flat steel washers. It only needs to take the shock out of the system. If you use rubber, make sure the rubber washers are smaller in diameter than the steel in order to allow somewhere for the rubber to go under load. We were fortunate in that we had two drag links (both of which were scrap) and in each case, one spring had survived. Steve
  41. 1 point
    Another great restauration. Well done to those involved.
  42. 1 point
    The MVT organise one campsite and tours/parades over the D Day week June 6th, this week, all full
  43. 1 point
    If the local yabbo's are to be believed this can be fixed by lowering the suspension, adding a chrome endpiece to the exhaust and fitting a useless spoiler. A new soundsystem and metallic paintjob are optional but can't hurt either.
  44. 1 point
    Hope your still on the forum Dan. I love to see progress on your jeep. After months of sitting forlorn on the engine stand I finally got round to stripping the old paint off, cleaning, repaint and reinstall the engine. Now resplendent in GPW grey, with genuine Willys cooling fan, it looks the Dogs. Gearbox will have to wait to rejoin the engine in the chassis as the clutch friction plate thickness it was below the min 3mm. Why i didn't check this earlier.....? So now waiting for a new one to arrive before bolting on the gearbox. I'l post some picture when I've got it all connected up. Like Dan I want the rear of the jeep to look as good as the front, so I've opted to bin the escort fuel tank mounted behind the rear axle so the axle is visible. I'm now pondering what structural additions are needed if I remove the centre section of the rear cross member so as not to affect rear spring hanger integrity.
  45. 1 point
    One method that may be suitable:-
  46. 1 point
    Ian, if not loose on the shaft then it is possibly the bearing or clutch basket as you mentioned.........I'm sure I have a good used bearing here, plus a NOS clutch basket still in the wartime packing..........I'll have a rummage tomorrow in the workshop....... It's Steve Madden by the way.........
  47. 1 point
    Thursday night I popped over to Alastair's to get some measurements and borrow his body support brackets. I have ordered some metal ready to make them. While I was a Alastair's we offered a section of body up to his chassis. I have also found a gear leaver that I have been looking for, for over a week as I will need the reverse lock and securing cap parts. It is pictured next to the Loyd gear lever that came with the project. Peter.
  48. 1 point
    Funny enough,and not much help in your search Im afraid but I also had 2 pairs of blue overalls/boiler suits when I did YTS in 1987 and from memory they had rubber buttons.
  49. 1 point
    Friend started restoring his K9 but his β€˜engine’ box of nuts and bolts etc have gone missing. Looking for either the TREAD SIZE or spare BANJO BOLT (filter?) for the carburettor inlet. Green Machine has some for the Champ, same or not? Carb is the Zenith 42VB. Any help greatly appreciated
  50. 1 point
    If my brother was driving, I used to reach down and push and twist the gear lever retainer and lift out the gear lever. Then casually offer him the gear lever and ask if he had any use for it. Got him every time, minor nuclear explosion. I thought better of it if father was driving.
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