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  1. 2 points
    I replied to a earlier thread on this subject and at that time could not add any thing to it other than what i knew at that time since then l have been put to gether a list of RAF MU's AAW's AVD BVD RVD and there locations several things have come to light concerning the numbers allocated to them one location can have two or three different numbers on the same site or in a area covered by one area command BURN near YORK and BARLOW near SELBY had the same 41 AVD were is this taking us well up to now with what i already knew i have found one hundred locations and B42 was located at WALLINGTON in the uk ps at the same time DIAMOND Ts were under going rebuilds at the same time
  2. 1 point
    Having gathered together sufficient parts to make a start over the last year, I am at last ready to commence the restoration of Thornycroft J type No. 2393 of 1915. This chassis was recovered from beneath an old chalet in Skegness and thus protected has survived in remarkably good order. It was discovered and recovered by Graham Hand and passed on to John Marshall, who began to add parts as they became available, but was concentrating on his front runner J type 2282 also of 1915. It is great to find a chassis, particularly one in good condition, but the icing on the cake would be an engine and I became aware of the existence of a collection of Thornycroft parts in Sydney Australia. These parts from various models had been rescued from an auction having failed to attract any bidders and I soon discovered the new owner, Ian Browning was willing to move them on, providing I took on the whole collection. This was more than I wanted, but I decided to go for it and with the blessing of the Australian Government, I made arrangements to export a container load of rusty metal from the other side of the world. Ian took on the job of packing and loading in temperatures of 40 degrees which can't have been pleasant ( Thanks mate !) and after a 3 month voyage I took delivery at Southampton. The haul included 2 chassis (one 'X' one 'J') two M4 engines, one fairly complete, the other less so and various other hard to find parts. The chassis were just post war with no numbers visible. After a hard life hauling loads on Australian roads they were put to work again as farm trailers and further abused until abandoned and rescued for preservation. I had little interest in the rare X type parts,( being a lighter weight export model) and after considerable wrangling managed to swap these and the tired J chassis for the current 1915 project. I now have temporary accommodation which is secure if a little draughty on the Ox/ Bucks border. Anyone with workshop space in this area and/or an interest in helping with this project please shout ! I am also seeking parts including a gearbox, water pump and Diff gear. Regards, Tomo .
  3. 1 point
    Try 1/4 Unf and look on eBay.
  4. 1 point
    Tested Spring in Tividale Birmingham. Theyve done all sorts for me. Including Aveling safety valve springs
  5. 1 point
    Looks good @Samro nice to see an intact Triad 32 😜
  6. 1 point
    If the local yabbo's are to be believed this can be fixed by lowering the suspension, adding a chrome endpiece to the exhaust and fitting a useless spoiler. A new soundsystem and metallic paintjob are optional but can't hurt either.
  7. 1 point
    Belzona is excellent, and used in heavy industry. MoD use it and I have used it successfully in all sorts of applications. regards Richard
  8. 1 point
    One method that may be suitable:-
  9. 1 point
    The correct colour is Sky Blue EMER WORKSHOPS Chapter 3. Paints in Service Use. Table 1 H1/8010-99-943-4730 Paint, Finishing, Heat Resisting, High Gloss, Sky Blue BSC 101, Brushing
  10. 1 point
    well done thanks for sharing your photos it helps to inspire all of us who are doing the same thing
  11. 1 point
    OK Lex....Her name is Judith. Ron
  12. 1 point
    Yes, thanks again for your help. I had asked many 'knowledgeable' people about the problem over the last two years to no avail. I posted the original question more as a last resort. I hope our paths cross one day. Jeff
  13. 1 point
    I care as it is the way it should be done.
  14. 1 point
    I thought so too when I got her. 6 plugs so 4 pots must share inner 2 inlets.
  15. 1 point
    You could try an in-distributor condensor replacement before committing to a rebuild. http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/easycap/index.htm Personally I don't like to see magnetos converted to coil ignition. A magneto in good condition provides an excellent spark and they are very reliable.
  16. 0 points
  17. 0 points
    That brings back memories, I was offered a sales job at Auto Diesels Braby back in 1974.
  18. 0 points
    We have just spent a few days in the Cotswolds which included providing transport for the wedding of some good friends. Getting the bride to the church on time adds a little stress to the drive. But after that trip went so well it was much less concerning to make it to the village social club. The cab, doors and windscreen provided ample weather protection as described in the original sales catalogue (40mph winds and rain). Back to the venue where the sun came out for the photos. The hill performance is slowly improving (and probably my driving also), but there is probably some more tuning to be done.
  19. 0 points
    Some more photos of the engine dismantling.
  20. 0 points
    Found a useful part languishing on the spare frame, which was missing on the project chassis. One starting handle socket. Unfortunately the 'Ozrust' had taken an unsually firm hold and the blighter refused to budge, despite a month off, relaxing in a deisel bath . After a bit of light straining it became obvious that heavier artillery would be necessary and Stan produced the world's biggest tap wrench and lit up the oxycetylene. Resistance quickly crumbled under this ferocious assault and amidst plumes of smoke from vaporizing penetrant, the socket slowly began to turn again. Would have made a good picture but unfortunately our hands were full. Here is a reconstruction of the method of attack. You'll have to imagine the smoke.
  21. 0 points
    The crankcase first had a good scrape followed by a rotary wire brushing. Pics by Stan. This revealed a couple of interesting things, firstly original machining marks, still there under a light coating of rust. Not often seen in English restorations ! sSecondly we think this may be the mark of the engine builder in Australia. It is made up of letter ' I ' stamps, formed into a 'W'. Whoever he was, he made a good job and much of his work will run again, 70 odd years down the line. Having got the outside sharpened up, it was time to get stuck in to the black hole within. Note, it would have been better to start here. This was proper minging !
  22. 0 points
    Evening All, This is a long one but where to start. The petrol tank is finished and the new engine is in place, so now on to the electrics. I have an engine, a wiring loom and two ECU's, one engine and one gearbox. The wiring loom doesn't fit the engine, the concept of plug and play has gone out of the window, the wiring loom is the wrong loom for my engine ECU. The ECU requires one yellow plug and one black, my loom has one yellow and one blue plug, that doesn't fit the ECU. As far as I can ascertain, the loom is for a 3.2ltr, my engine is a 3.6ltr. What to do. In a moment of shear depression, I did think about trying to find the correct loom but then I thought, what the hell, I will rewire the whole thing. The Haynes manual is like the proverbial chocolate tea pot, so after a lot of searching on line, I found a wiring diagram for a 3.6 of roughly the right vintage and begun chopping. This is definitely not a job for the faint hearted, it involved altering, and I am not exaggerating, about 80% of the wiring loom, even the colours are different. Eventually after two days of chopping and adding I was getting somewhere but where I wasn't sure. Even the simple items had either more of fewer wires. At last I turned the key, nothing. There was, in the loom, a group of about 10 wires that were all permennant lives, in other words they were live even when the ignition key was turned off, something I don't like, so I cut them into individuals and traced where they went, ignored what I didn't think was important and connected the remainder, just one. After my initial test or failure, I realised that I needed a second permenant live to the ECU, this was connected and I tried again, the ECU fired up along with the fuel pump. I now had two of the main items, a cranking engine and fuel but no spark. When the expert, had decided that I needed a different engine, part of his reasoning was that this engine didn't require an ignition amplifier. I spent hours looking for a wiring diagram that didn't require this amplifier but I couldn't find one, so I rang the expert. Now amazingly he told me to ignore what he had told me and fit an amplifier. This should give you some idea of what I have been up against. The amplifier was ordered and duly arrived. The wiring diagram showed 5 wires, the amplifier had 7 connections and the plug had 7 connections but only one of the wire colours in the plug matched the diagram and that was in a different position in the plug. Again, back to the internet but I couldn't find the relevant diagram. What I did find, was a thread where a bloke had wired in his amplifier incorrectly and attached pictures of the connections and their relevant place in the plug. There's a but, the plug had 7 spaces but only 3 wires were connected. The wiring loom that I have, originally only had 3 wires, of course the colours didn't match but I decided to attach these 3 wires into the plug as per his picture and blow me I had a spark. Today I reassembled the cooling unit into the hull, connected everything up, filled the cooling system, attached a temporary fuel tank and pressed the starter. After the fourth attempt it started, what a sweet note from the exhaust, well for 30 seconds and then the oil pipe to the oil cooler shot off and emptied 8 litres of oil on the floor. Bugger. I have to admit that I have shortened this story so that you don't consider suicide. Jon
  23. 0 points
    I've spent the last couple of months working on this painting - based on the photo posted earlier. (I'm no more than an enthusiastic amateur...as you can see) The information on this thread provided details not visible in my 100 years old photo (thank you very much!). I hinted at the Cologne location in the background - no idea if Granda's truck could possibly have been at that particular place with the cathedral in the background....but sure,m why not! Thanks once again for sharing all the pictures etc. Also to Tomo for the insight into 610's activities during this period.
  24. 0 points
    Advise owner to sell it and get a Dodge. 😁😁 For specalist parts Jeeparts or Dallas Auto parts. Though you should expect lots of Land Rover queries.
  25. 0 points
    Simon, a radial engine commonly uses a master con rod with the remaing rods pinned to it in order that the cylinders can be in the same plane and the engine depth kept to a minimum. John, the term that describes the force exerted by a rotating object is centripetal force.😊
  26. 0 points
    A really poorly speedo has now been stripped, cleaned and rebuilt....a great sense of achievement to do it myself!
  27. 0 points
    Wiring of the new instrument panel almost complete. Once finished focus will switch to getting the engine ready to install and try and start.
  28. 0 points
    An enjoyable afternoon spent tinkering with the MW repainted one of the jacks and replaced the old shovel with a 39 dated example and swapped out the wire cutter for a pair of 1940 ones. I know I know the greens too dark but I don't care I like that colour so that's the colour it's gonna be 😁
  29. 0 points
    2 of which ( menu 1 & menu 11) are vegetarian...... In fact there's a whole vegetarian box of 20 different menus, look for V numbers on the individual boxes. And a Sikh/Hindu box, very good I'm told and better than the standard veggie box.
  30. 0 points
    Attention Vehicle Owners & Re-enactors only. After very careful consideration there will be a few changes to 2019 show camping. If you bring a Military Vehicle and DO NOT Military Green camp with your vehicle in the vehicle display areas and choose to Plastic camp in the General Public Camping or bring a caravan there will be a £10 pitch fee to camp for the weekend. Same rule for Re-enactors & Living History, if you plastic camp or bring a caravan and not camp with your display there will be a pitch fee of £10 also. VEHICLE OWNERS (not including crewed vehicles) Get 2 x complimentary weekend show tickets. If you have more in your party you will be able to buy additional tickets on arrival at a discounted price. T's & C's apply , you must arrive together in the pre-registered vehicle.... Or normal gate charges will apply. We hope that you understand it has been a very difficult decision, as we appricate your continued support for the show, but running costs have increased year on year and we have had no other choice. Regards Amy, Emma 0017 WITV quarterpage_advert Advert 68x99 2018 HIRES.pdf
  31. 0 points
    Along with the Daimler parts was a second very low numbered chassis approx 1914 with the latter 1920s pneumatic wheels which we think was a standard upgrade in its day.This chassis you can just see in the photo with the axles peaking out under the bus body forward of the rear axle and it has a nice clear stencil stating max 20mph.
  32. 0 points
    My concerns regarding this argument are : A) - The driver if and when they fall foul of the law and the ramifications of in effect driving a vehicle without valid insurance - as rightly stated - driving a vehicle that is not registered or plated to carry loads is an offence and as such would make any insurance null and void - thus giving the authorities the power to seize and crush the vehicle if they wish - and they very often do.. B) - Anyone unfortunate enough to be involved in an accident with this vehicle - there will be no insurance for either party - and if an MVT member - PPLI will not cover you.... C) - The rest of the Military and Classic vehicle community who will then be under the spotlight once again for all the wrong reasons. Our hobby is facing enough pressure from the Government and DVLA as it is without the question of individuals flouting the law knowingly or vehicles being used inappropriately . - That aside - I love the truck, its both unusual and I think a good looking conversion and (if you lost the hiab in my personal opinion) could easily pass for a wartime modification. I always enjoy restoration pictures as does everyone im sure and thank you for sharing them. I think the modifications to the rear beavertail enhance it and make it both safer and more in keeping with the wartime look. Was the chassis previously a workshop bodied variant ? - it has the workshop fuel tank and if so, should also have the additional chassis bracing which is obvious to see if you look under the vehicle I've also seen GMC's Cargo's carrying jeeps in the rear - so unfortunately this is by no means a lone example - but given all the advice and warnings - I can only hope that the owner/driver re-think the plan to carry the weasel as a load until the vehicle is plated and registered / legally allowed to do so - whilst I appreciate the original post and its direction may have been over-taken by the comments regarding the carrying of the weasel and the legal requirements - please take them as advice and not as personal attacks or insults - the comments/warnings and solutions are offered in good faith by genuine people who know what they are talking about and are offered to help you enjoy your vehicle and the hobby whilst staying both stay safe and legal. I would ask if you are so convinced you are legally entitled to carry such loads - what you have done to achieve this so that other members with similar vehicles can then do so that they may also carry such loads, it would be very good for others using this forum who could then benefit from your wisdom and actions.
  33. 0 points
    Thank you Ex-boy. I really had no options but to do it myself, along with a friends help. Seems there not many (if any) places qualified or familiar with the Wilson transmission here in the states. Luckily there is the internet and with enough research I do believe anything is possible if you put your mind to it. Every now and then it helps to have a person whom looks at things differently (out of the box per say) and ask for their input. I couldn’t have done this restoration without some friends and the internet or it would have never been completed. Even with help it has been a bigger project than I ever imagined. Having people like you encourage me is also an inspiration as well. Thank you!
  34. 0 points
    We refitted the Thornycroft fuel tank after the rebuild, fitted the petrol tap, changed the jet on the carb and fitted instruction plate. A few less parts on the floor to trip over.
  35. 0 points
    Whilst everyone was enjoying a Boxing Day sleep in I decided to clean up the barrel and breech ring to see if both would match up. Spent a good amount of time cleaning up the interrupted screw threads as these were caked with grease and grit. Surprisingly once I got everything straight and level i simply wheeled the jack forward, twisted the barrel and that was that. Still some cleaning up to do then hopefully will be mounted back into the turret in the next week or so.
  36. 0 points
    Happy Christmas to all!!!!! Thanks for the ideas, reply's, in the end they will be cast steel, whether new or original I don't know, where from, I have no idea but that's for next year. Thanks for the idea and offer Highland Laddie but I must confess, I have never understood the concept, maybe I am old fashioned or stupid. The project will, I am determined, get finished, as long as I don't suffer a serious bout of death. When? when it does, I am in no hurry. Every little component or assembly takes time, especially as there are no drawings. Part of the problem is determining how an assembly actually works so that it can be replicated and as I don't have the opportunity of stripping these assemblies down or x ray eyes, it takes some time to construct something that will actually work and that's before I start making the assembly. Sometimes I find a picture / drawing, in my dreams. Have a good one, Jon
  37. 0 points
    As you say, this part of the chassis should not be under great stress, particularly if the bolts / rivets have not been loose. However the Goslings' J was cracked in almost the same place. I wonder if it could be a result of weakness caused by the manufacturing process ? And why only the LH chassis rail ? David
  38. 0 points
    I saw this site on the SAAF which contains stories and photo albums from those who served in SAAF in North Africa and Italy etc. This particular album contains many vehicle photos. Enjoy http://saafww2pilots.yolasite.com/ralph-harding-photographs.php
  39. 0 points
    front wheels installed today with the assistance of a fork lift. All the wheel bearings were honed to reinstall them. The left front is either a Goodrich or Goodyear wheel. All others are Firestone. There are differences. The Goodyear or Goodrich mounts the tire slightly offset and uses straight roller bearings The Firestone's use a tapered bearing. Almost ready to roll it home!
  40. 0 points
    Congratulations Mark always an exciting moment when that hoped for vehicle arrives in terms of parts supplies you really have a very wide choice for a jeep these days. I would suggest you do a little web research it's all part of the learning curve you have a choice of 4 major outlets in the UK, and any number of well known suppliers from Holland, Belgium and France that's before you start to look at suppliers in the US, just remember that non EU countries will carry a not inconsequential import tax. I'm purposefully not naming names as I don't believe one is better than all the others it's a case of mix and match depending on the size of your pocket and what you ultimately want to achieve. The most important thing to keep in mind is that it's your truck and you can do with it as you wish and don't be afraid of asking questions on any of the forums that's what their there for. regards Pete
  41. 0 points
    I'm rather disgusted that Combat Dealers can be compared to Thomas the Tank Engine. One programme has high production standards and a believable quality script whilst the other has a bloke gurning into the camera and would be rejected by children's TV as to childish.
  42. 0 points
    Good thinking! Thanks for the reminder. I went down South this weekend and took the headboard for painting and the sump for fitting. I cleaned both surfaces and then applied a liberal coating of Loctite liquid gasket. I then fitted the patch and screwed it partially down until sealant came out all round. I left it for the rest of the day and then nipped up the screws on final assembly. It went down well and I am pleased. Proof of the pudding now! Then fitted up the new gaskets with grease. This shot, taken whilst I was on my back, was just before the second fitting. We had fully bolted the sump up before remembering that the oil level float needed to be fitted first! You can see it on the LHS of the pic. Oil pump re-fitted and starting handle in place again. Just need to sort the tank out and we can have another outing. Dad has finished off the tin carriers. They were held in place by the lifting table which was ideal for this. It is amazing, however, how long it takes to drill just five holes in the right place. Success! Both carriers fitted and our thoughts then turned to the Peerless. Something for tomorrow..... Steve
  43. 0 points
    I'm surprised there is no response for you as there are quite a few Jeep owners on this forum. I wish I could help.
  44. 0 points
    There should be a length of leather belt with holes in on each canopy upright post to secure the buckle on the rolled up canopy side
  45. 0 points
  46. 0 points
    Thanks for the tip Tony , will give it a go when I'm back on my feet . Regarding the look of the batteries , I know there ain't a lot of room to do it on a Jeep but on my Dodge I made up a ply box which fitted around the Optima to make it look , at a glance , like a rubber cased original . And it also helped to hold it in place it being so much smaller than an ordinary battery .
  47. 0 points
    So everything cleaned up and ready for fitting the shoes. The factory manual as is the way with most British workshop manuals of the period is fairly vague on detail unlike the North American productions that break every task down into its simplest form. one thing the Leyland manual did stress was that the pull off springs must be located behind the shoes and NOT in front to prevent the shoes tipping forward on the pivots and making proper adjustment impossible….. All very sensible but an absolute B###er to try to fit unless you are blest with at least three pairs of hands. The manual says helpful things like “leave the hangers off the pivots and attach the springs to the top hanger then attach the bottom” then and leaver the hangers into position on the pivots. A couple of helpful photos from the manual, looks so easy, look he’s even doing it at arm’s length !! In common with a lot of larger trucks the Leyland brake hanger and shoe has a cut out in the face to hook a wire through onto the spring and by using a leaver on top of the shoe the tension can be taken off the spring but you still need three pairs of hands or a fitters mate as the springs are fitted from the rear of the shoes. I work alone as I suspect most of us do and the hangers are heavy, the room behind the hub is limited, and the pull off springs are very strong with very tight bends on the hooks so after I’d used up my fairly extensive vocabulary of swear words and then invented a few more for good measure I decided I would try something else. There were two options one, take the hubs off to give more room, didn’t want to do that as the bearings were greased and set or two, find a way of taking the strain off of the the springs while I had two hands free to encourage the end of the spring into the very small hole from the back of the hanger enter the faithful workshop crane a couple of lengths of 14 gauge wire and a torch. so the crane dose it all with no sweat and a couple of mm at time if required Job done in 2 minutes with no bad language one thing I would say when working with springs it's best to use eye protection, if they do decide to let go even a jeep return spring could do a lot of damage. Pete
  48. 0 points
    Attached photos, taken today at the Great Dorset Steam Fair. PS If anyone is thinking of going this weekend prepay and print your tickets off before you go, this morning I had to queue for an hour and half to get in !
  49. 0 points
    Thanks Austin, still pottering really, just waiting on some really good weather so I can get some body panels rivetted on. Got loads of little bits to clean up and refurbish. Next job I've finally got round to doing was the front indicator guards, only taken 14 years! Anyway, got some sheet steel cut out to size and rolled to get the curvature, though not quite true, but a little tweak here and there, and they still look ok. The original items. After cutting the old steel away, it revealed a very rusty mounting ring, so duly cleaned up before welding on new. All glued up, a bit of filler in places, a good rub down and coat of zinc primer. Job done.
  50. 0 points
    Its a 25 pounder, these early guns did not have the muzzle brake or counter weight fitted . Rob...................rnixartillery.
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