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    My Austin Tilly in Normandy celebration was wery good for drive, but before Port eBessin have problém with engine , now home see, one bearing is out, need set new part no . IG 691 -.040 bearings, upper and lower halves, thanks for help!
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    Then off to Stan's today to prepare pistons for grinding to standard 'A' clearance sizes. They were decarbonized, roughly cleaned up and checked for cracks etc. Mike Lewenden is IC Grinding and says he is looking forward to the challenge. Photos by Stan, very sore thumbs by me.
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    Hello everybody I am new to all this so bare with me, I am a 21 year old from the west Midlands and have recently wanted a classic truck to restore I have already restored a couple of my own 50's 60's and 80's cars converting an Austin A30 into a oval track race car, but that's enough about cars I wanted I classic truck was looking into the Bedford TK and KM models was ringing a few people and buying magazines then I bought December's Issue of Vintage and classic commercials and on the front page was a dark red militant. I'm pretty sure he's on the page with the MK1 tanker ? Rob ? I saw that and read the whole section and just felt right looking at it and I said to myself that is just awesome, I'd love one of them and surely enough I scoured the internet and found a militant in my price range (I didn't have a big budget) it was advertised on this site not long ago. So I viewed it fell in love then agreed to collect her. Picked her up last Saturday and am currently nibbling away fixing little things whilst trying to keep the missus happy as she knows only too well how much time I spend I'm the garage on a project till its done. Any advice on parts or people to talk to would be great. Thanks for reading. Andy
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    With machining now in progress, I have transferred my attentions to the steering box, which has come to bits fairly easily, except for the inner screw thread and its white metal counterpart. Heat is not an option here for obvious reasons, although boiling water was tried without success. The offending item has been put back into soak to consider its position and I will return to it with steering arm to hand which will give me better leverage. Both main ball bearings have been revived from a solid state. One of them might go again, the other is rough.
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    Managed to find a flying flea, needing a bit of work but that’s the best ones to have. I currently have a mix of war and post war parts, almost enough to build a complete bike and some! Lots to do, first up media blasting.
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    Hi Dan did I see yours jeep for sale on Ebay? If so that sad after all the work you've put into it. I know Jagos are not old military vehicles but not everyone is in a position to buy a genuine Willys or ford GPW. In trying to recreate a Willys lookalike I'm paying homage to both Jeff Gago, who never wanted the Jago jeep to look anything other than a replica, and to the amazing men an women that designed and build such an iconic vehicle. Surely imitation is the highest form of flattery? Here are some pictures of my progress. I hope you change your mind and finish what looks like a stunning replica. I want my jeep to look at least close the the real thing, so I picked up a old Mk1 Cortina Bakelite steering wheel over the winter which modified to look like a Willys one. It involved chipping off the Bakelite from the spokes, cutting off the Cortina boss, bending the spokes in and welding them to the escort boss. (I can't claim it as my ideas as I got it from one of the DOG Company replica jeeps made by Ruben Dobbs.) To finish, I filled down the edges of the Bakelite around the rim primed and painted it I thnk it look good. FROM THIS........................................... TO THIS The picture below shows the repaired and strengthened cross member & the extension I bought to get the jeep steering as close to real thing as possible whilst still keeping the escort column. The Escort column is far too short without it. The whole chassis was stripped to bare metal, crush tubes added for the cross member bolts, and then given 4 coats of Corroless Chassis paint from Arc Rite paints. Internally its been waxoiled, so should last another 20 years The engine was rebuild before i decided to start the Jago to Willys transformation, so only a clean and repaint was required. The front grill And bonnet in the picture are the original Jago ones cut and shut with fibreglass to match the ford derived Wilys/GPW ones. could resist laying the windscreen frame on the bonnet :) As I'm both short of free time and money, everything that can be restored by cleaning, repainting or repairing has been. The only concession has been the brakes, brake lines and suspension which are all new. I actually feel like there's light at the end of the tunnel after months of stripping, cleaning repairing, welding and painting. Now the good weather and long evenings are here (he says sitting in the house watching the rain poor down) I can get back to the body. I managed to find time to built a dummy wooden wheel box out of scrap OSB board last week and i'm happy with the dimensions, so its off to the DIY store this weekend to buy the ply to make the actual boxes of the body. Will post again when I've made some progress on the body.
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    Peter, have you not got one of those right angle electric drill extension thingies. Got mine from Machine Mart I think. The sort of thing you only use once in a blue moon, but in those circumstances it’s a godsend.
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    I refitted the centre right body panel and drilled the remaining holes then fitted the rear right panel marked the inside edge of the chassis rail on the panel, removed the panel to cut to size. Then for a change I refitted the panel and drilled the remaining holes. I then positioned an angle irons along the under side of the outer edge, drilled it and bolted it up then repeated it with a second angle iron that runs on the inside edge. These angle irons still need cutting to length. There were some holes that needed drilling through the front track guard extensions but I could not get my drill in. I then worked out that I could fit a 6mm drill bit in my die grinder and although a bit steady it saved a lot of work taking things apart and then putting them back together again. I marked the plates that support the body off the ends of the axles. While I was drilling the first one the hole saw bit bust the arbor mandrel and left a nice bruise on my leg so that stopped that job for a few days while a new one turns up. I was able to knock the hole out and clean it up so I was able to fit the first one although there is still a bracket to weld on the back. Peter.
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    Well we made it home yesterday afternoon,just the one breakdown on the way back ! Steve's Matchy cried enough just south of Salisbury and ended up in the van,he rode back to my place on my bike... The carbon brush in the mag had made loads of dust and was shorting the spark out,not something I can remember seeing before.It was a new one fitted before the trip... My bike went very well apart from the new voltage reg packing up,my brothers bike suffered a failed head gasket,(Also new) my son Jack's bike had the gearbox mainshaft nut come undone, allowing the clutch to move in and out. Easily fixed,as was the head gasket kindly donated by Chris Orchard, just my reg that couldn't be fixed.The other Steve's very freshly built M20 went very well and is getting better all the time. The picture shows the Cull family's trio of old ladies back in the workshop drying out...
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    From Neglected to Newark. I haven’t posted on here for a long time because sadly I have been busy or was doing other things to make time for my big old girl. Fortunately I had a spur of spirit and set myself a target to get her to the AEC show so with 6 weeks to go I set about everything that needed doing to make her roadworthy. And at the end of the 6 weeks I was happy she was fit for the road. So me tired beyond compare after weeks and weeks or AM finished after work I left for the show at 6:20 am up all the A roads and arrived at 9:17 with no problems. Brilliant time at the show and made it back with no troubles but a numb arse. Looking forward to finishing her off now and getting her all painted up hopefully she’ll be done for Christmas and going to shows next year
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    You are correct Steve, it is a threshing machine driven by an old Fordson Major. Pity they weren't actually demonstrating threshing, always guaranteed to draw a crowd.
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    No thanks ! If I want to drive something smokey I'll light up the steam roller. The pistons are a disposable item on their last regrind back to standard "A" If I can make a big improvement to the running of this old girl by a small modification which was taken up anway in 1920, I feel inclined to give it a go and I'm afraid I don't see your problem. 😏
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    I still cannot understand why people do take their pride and joy on the beaches, bet they don't take them out in the winter when there is salt on the road.Advice buy or search "tide timetable" save a lot of tears.
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    Hi Tomo, The bottom ring is an oil scraper, it has the 'step cut' ends to keep the oil from passing the ring gap and the reduced diameter and oil holes under the ring allow the oil to pass down inside the skirt.
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    I think that it is normal for the ring lands to taper a few thou (in steps). The area above the top ring runs a lot hotter than the skirt.
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    I only found this drawing after Steve had problems with his. 1920 piston design for M type engines All the old cast iron piston drawings I have seen show the top of the piston a few thousandths smaller to allow for the thermal expansion.
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    I've finished the front track guards today. Once I had bent the curved fold to 90degrees as covered in previous post I hammered it almost flat then pressed it flat to straighten it out. I then repeated thing's for the other side. I have also replaced some bolts on a chassis cross member with rivets. I now need to refit the body panels so I can fit the 4 angle irons that run the length of the body above the tracks. Peter.
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    Hello Citroen Man, Thanks for the video, no I hadn't seen that before, I would be incredible to find something like that and then restore it. Evening All, Just a quick update, in truth there's not much to tell, I seem to have spent the last week doing everything other than the tank. Getting the final drives inline with the steering box took quite a lot of time and I lost count of how many times I had to remove the steering box to make alterations but the easy side is almost complete apart from the drive shaft cover. The right hand side has been a right pain because of the limited space and the need to have the longest possible splines on the drive shaft. Time has moved on from when I was a full time machinist, had someone brought us a hardened shaft and asked us to machine splines on it, it would have been a no go but I bought a carbide cutter and even my old milling machine made easy work of the job, impressed, I should say so. In my opinion this is still the weak point in the drive chain but time will tell. I fear that things may slow down even further in the near future as I have some rooms to refurbish in an old rectory. Jon
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    Next project !! After a bit of toing and froing we`ve decided to do another CB22 as we have found and located enough bits to build another one which actually amounts to more than we had for the first one plus we have the bonus of knowing what should be where and what needs to go in which hole.I was fortunate to be offered a bus body for the Palladium and when I went to look at it found it was sitting on a Daimler chassis the same as the one we had rebuilt a couple of years ago this one being exactly 100 vehicles younger according to the chassis numbers.Earlier this year a "British" bus body came up on EBAY which was we believe was originally fitted to a Daimler CC which equates to almost the same as the CB but the chassis rails are slightly further apart but the engine ,transmission and diff we believe were the same .I`m sure someone will dig out some info to the contrary now I`ve put my head above the parapet !! Going to start in ernest on the body as this will take the lions share of the time as we are not coach builders and the mechanical stuff comes easy so we`ll use this as a form of R & R .At this stage we think about 90% of the steel brackets and the bulkhead are salvageable with most of the timber being pattens only due to the "newness" being worn away.
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    Well you have bit of work left.... good luck.
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    SIGH At some point, if not already, the owner of that truck is going to be made aware of this thread and will read through it - if they have not already done so. 😔 I would suggest kindness in the comments, please. If the owner is reading this, feel free to chip in with some comments. I'm assuming the truck was recovered with some expense and embarrassment, but nobody died - it is a Dodge after all. Gordon
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    I have just finished reading "Big Week" by James Holland. In a nutshell, it tells the story of the contribution made to defeating Nazi Germany by the USAAF flying from their bases in the UK. Quite honestly, it is humbling. Mention is made of the finest B17 navigator in one of the squadrons. He was just 17 years old. Most of the bomber pilots were 20 or so; they held the lives of nine other airmen in their youthful and inexperienced hands. It is difficult to imagine just how these young men were able to keep going when faced repeatedly with the ordeal of flying in the face of the flak, the Luftwaffe and, quite simply, the generally atrocious European weather to carry out missions, often at the very limits of their aircraft's range, knowing that the chances of completing the required 25 combat sorties was remote. And to come "home" after each flight to nothing more than a damp, chilly Nissen hut on a muddy, windswept field in East Anglia where it was a half-hour walk just to get fed. Extraordinary men, extraordinary times. 10 68
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    The last time I was there was in 2015, when I took the Ford GPW there to recreate some wartime pictures. Four years later, there were a number of changes to the displays, including moving my B-17 from a waist high display over a painting of the airfield to being suspended from the ceiling. It wasn't a long visit, but it was nice to get back for another look around. Late afternoon that day, we had a group trip to the coast in this 1941 Chrysler Royal Staff Car. That was it for the trip and the following day, we packed up and returned home. No rest for the wicked however and "Jessie" is back out tomorrow to the Northallerton 1940's day.
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    Hi. Yes still around but I had some health problems last year - body bits were starting to fall off - joys of getting old. I had to put a hold on the restoration but back to 100% and getting stuck back in to it again. I did some serious pondering about some of the work I had carried out and wanted to rectify it as I wasn't happy about it. So I set about it and made up my mind not to wonder off doing some thing else and leaving a part finished job. The first job I wanted to do was to make up the number plate brackets, I had two original ones , these were used on the rear and cut , drilled and painted the plate for the numbers. The front was a bit more of a swine as there is a slopping stone guard and the brackets had to be fixed inside the plate at the bottom but enough metal showing to fix the number plate to them.. It is a bit low but you can read the numbers on it - 18 YX 66. Next was to work out from the Black and White works photo of the rear angled number plate for the lorry number as fitted on the right hand side on the body. L533042. Having a good supply of cardboard, made up a plate for trial and error and when correct cut out a piece of steel 2mm and got the angle bent to 90. The stencil is on the wish list for the number. Next, was fitting of tail light. Back to the photo and it showed that there was a plate fitted at the back of the rear off side mud guard. Back to the cardboard supply and cut out a piece and trial / error got to look right. I cut out a piece to shape and drilled a 28mm hole for fitting the rear lamp.. The lamp I brought off a vintage car site, it is of the rubber type and has 3 self tapping screws to hold it on. I need to buy some cable and a 2 way junction box to wire in the light . On this wiring diagram there is a two way switch for the axle flood light, which will have to be obtained.. I had a small angle bracket which had two small red lights in it, they were very rough and could only save the bodies. This piece had puzzled me for many a year as to where it fitted, I couldn't find any holes that would fit it. Lying on my back a bit further in under the lorry having a ponder, I found the holes and is now fitted but without the lights. I shall have to see if I can buy new connectors and fit them inside the original bodies. Right, inside the chassis at the rear there should be a plate fitted - 33" x 25" and this is to support the boat oars. The chassis body work will help also to support the oars. Plate is cut out but needs to be drilled and painted. The top of the side locker, I'm not happy with the plate as it's a bit on the flimsy side, so I've cut a new plate out and is the next job to be done. Side locker door, is again a bit flimsy, so I will strengthen with a piece of 2mm steel on the inside of the door. As soon as I can, will just put up some photo's Paul Burns.
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    Even the Austrian Army got some leftover High Speed Tractors when the Allied Forces left the country in 1955. See this facebook Video of the Traditionsverband Heereskraftfahrwesen. Here more info provided in english http://www.hkfw.at/en/our-vehicles/80-allis-chalmers-m4-high-speed-tractor-18t-2-en Motorfahrer
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    Pete Glad you like the thread, little steps done. These are two wilco baking tins trimmed down and placed back to back at a slight angle gives good corners. I will be filling these and the other muduard attachments with expanable foam to add to ridigity. Next on list is spare wheel support brackets 6mm andgle iron bent in various directions. (hopefully will end up looking like these)...
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    Also instanly recognisable, the stack of ...empty beer bottles....wine bottles..empty bean tins.. and discret pink cushions! :-D
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