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  1. 1 point
    @steviem Yes, you want to carry easy to fit spares. Plugs, coil, fan belt, condensors ( a few, as new ones aren't always reliable ), points ( I fitted electronic ignition to mine, but have points as spares ). I also carry a fuel pump diaphragm kit in case that spits. Grease, oil and water ( 1 ltr ) and lots of tools. I followed a wartime Canadian Army modification and made a read seat locker which keeps the tools secure and stops them sliding around.
  2. 1 point
    I would second Clives comments about Pat Eagan at Khaki Imports. I have had a few dealings with him, both sides have always been very happy with the results. As Clive said, he has a good reputation and will go out of his way to help out anyone. I have yet to deal with Airborn, but it won't be long, and i hear good things about them also. What is it you are looking for ?
  3. 1 point
    Hi there! Here are the details of my 1 Ton Humber used by the Australian army:- FV1601A "Commer" Engine No. 13746 Chassis No. 6310141 ARN. 105-810 Phil...
  4. 1 point
    Winston you will have seen my remarks above & no doubt compared your pictures with those on the Shorland Site. The liberal use of white paint being used to side step the lack of the Dunlop 'Trakmark' lining. That aside, it looks in very good condition. I do hope you are successful & being LHD for you & no doubt its age will allow it to be imported. The GNR Shorlands were originally fitted with two radio systems. VHF - Storno CQM 632 HF - Racal Syncal TRA-921 this was a manpack radio but boosted with a 100 watt linear amplifier for AM/SSB with a manually operated aerial tuning unit Racal MA-942 There was also an intercom amplifier integrated with the radios using Larkspur accessories with a RSB2 control harness box & a type C junction box. Your Shorland appears to have Clansman units to perform this task, whether that was a genuine upgrade I don't know. Given that the Trakmark lining was stripped away or had deteriorated so badly it is unlikely that these were the original units. But anyway that is only a minor issue. The GNR used the 7.62 GPMG & fired either CS or smoke from the dischargers. If you do get it I beg of you to keep it as original as you can. To be marked up in GNR livery would be quite a head turner. I know an owner can do just what they like with their own vehicle & why should they listen to anyone else poking their nose in? But I have seen so many Shorlands ruined by the owner turning it into a fantasy vehicle. It's sad enough to see a Land Rover or Jeep turned into something strange, but there are enough of those around for it not to be the end of the world. But there are very few Shorlands to play around with. The thing is any owner may not keep a vehicle for the rest of their life. The novelty may wear off or something more fascinating may come along that needs to be funded. Selling a vehicle that is pretty much original will command a far higher price than one that has been turned into something of the owner's fancy. The owner may well feel proud of their embellishments but a buyer may just cringe & walk away or it only realises part of the value it would have as an authentic vehicle. Sorry I have gone on a bit there & don't mean to insult your motives. Good luck
  5. 1 point
    no the date of your jeep it would have the type 2 earth bonding only a few earth straps and a load of earth washers for example the body bolt by your foot would be like the order in the picture you can get this set from jeepest in France the best set around
  6. 1 point
    your hood number will be 20704655 built April 1945 under contract w-33-019-1885 chassis range from mb431301 to mb438041
  7. 1 point
    Snowy from Tin Tin? I,ll get my coat
  8. 1 point
    Hi I have used the air born garage I brought my Leyland hippo of Morris at air born garage. good communication and had no problems at all 🙂
  9. 1 point
    I know the airborne garage for long time now, more or less round the corner so to say. Very reliable dealer
  10. 1 point
    As an inservice weapon It is presumably still clasified as a Restricted Document so excempt from the FOI Act.
  11. 1 point
    If no-one on here has one it's worth trying a Freedom of Information request to the MOD. Andy
  12. 1 point
    I've known Pat Eagan from Tulsa for several decades. He would come to the UK to stock up & always was quite discriminating in what he would buy as he has a good reputation to protect.
  13. 1 point
    The rear window recess I did took ages and lots of bad language! It looked really great when complete and with paint on it. The problem came when we fitted the rear window in its new channel, it sat proud by a good few mm at the bottom corners. Because there was very little pattern left I based the bottom corners on the top ones, the shape was right but it didnt take into account a slight camber on the actual metalwork on the back of the cab!! It was too late to do anything the the painted metal so we ended up very very carefully using a file to take some rubber off the window channel, in the end we did enough to make it fit and it does look right. I totally understand frustrations in this sort of situation and think all the more when you see results like you are getting.
  14. 1 point
    Thats a neat piece of metalwork, from experience getting the shape/contour of window or screen recesses is quite tricky. I had to fabricate a complete rear screen recess on one of our lorries, it took a lot of patience and in the end a few attempts!
  15. 1 point
    Its not taking any hurt in the shed.
  16. 0 points
    I notice the block has the letters E1ADDN cast in, that was the code for Fordson Major. Whether that block was also used in commercial vehicles as well I don't know.
  17. 0 points
    For longer trips, I stick the Jeep on a flatbed trailer and tow it. Particularly with my daughter at school, I can have it all loaded and ready to go as soon as she gets out at 3:15. Otherwise, it can take too long to get places by the time she's out and then head off in the Jeep at 40mph.
  18. 0 points
    @steviem It was probably from my home in Washington to Breighton aerodrome near Selby. 100 and something miles and around three hours of bum numbing driving! Found it difficult to get out at the other end!! No problems on the long journey except discomfort! I broke down once coming back from there due to a coil failure as I didn't have 24 volt spare with me. I got to within 11 miles of home. If I'd let it cool, I could have probably driven back, but just called for recovery instead as I was also towing my trailer and didn't want to risk stopping in a bad spot. I took my Dodge from home to the Yorkshire Wartime Water Experience in 2012 and that ended up a 5 hour journey. That was really too far without power steering/brakes and double de-clutching around all the side roads to avoid the fast routes.
  19. 0 points
    And, brake strip down & cleanup is in progress.. I did think of getting new bearing but the existing ones are fine, just a good clean and repacked with new grease
  20. 0 points
    I've been looking for a British trailer for my 43 MB for a year or so was happy to take delivery of one a week or so ago Some of you may recognise it from Ian L's posts from when he recovered the trailer a few years ago, Ian kindly sold it on to me... It is, I believe, a 10 CWT Mortar trailer, it still has its original tag and a faint outline of white lettering on the front right panel, indicating that it is X5441349 built as a Mortar trailer but, probably post war, converted to a GS trailer having the rear tailboard and electrics fitted. Not sure which maker, so if anyone can help with that, I'd appreciate it The tailboard is missing which isn't an issue as I plan to take it back to wartime configuration, and, you may notice, most of the wood has rotted out so will be brushing up on my carpentry skills! Building a patio and working full time during lock down so it will be slow progress, but will post updates as I can A request though please? Does anyone have a copy of the maintenance manual that they could copy/share with me please? email a scan or if you have a spare one I could borrow/purchase, please drop me a PM, it would be much appreciated?
  21. 0 points
  22. 0 points
    We turned off the main road to the light house car park, then back along this side road to towards another car park, as there were some nice grassed and wooded areas for more photos along that road. Wifey and child went for another short walk while I was taking pictures.
  23. 0 points
    What gland packing do you need, Andy? I have some thin stringy stuff that I packed the valves with on my Aveling. I am due up to see your brother in the near future (i.e. a few weeks away) and can bring a hank up with me. Dave
  24. 0 points
    Last night, when I came to write the latest update, I realised I didn't have all the photographs I needed. So I just popped out into the workshop to remedy the situation. (I may be working from home, but I'm still entitled to a tea-break.) This week has seen the various nuts and bolts work their way up to gloss. Also I have freshened up the cylinder blocks. Finally, have re-fitted some of the shiny bits... Fuel filter. As received, the stop-tap had rusted off to a point projecting just beyond the gland nut. I took this to work and drilled out the remains, re-cut the internal thread and turned a new needle, handle and packing washers, before assembling and soldering it all together. Still require packing material for the gland. Repairs to the original head-light brackets. Ready for trial fitting. Headlamps were a bit of a fiddle to get on, but really change the appearance. Cylinder blocks after a lick of paint. I've had these in stock for a while now. Finally time to use a couple of them. Rather magnificent brass inlet manifold containing the governor-controlled throttle. Steadying bracket bolted to the side of the sump. And almost hidden from view the Claudel Hobson carburettor. (OK - tea break took a little longer than planned)
  25. 0 points
    There are a fair few that are 50 years old. In 1955 the student union I would later join took on a 40 year old fire engine. When I joined it was 70 years old and the transit vans were fairly new. Now the fire engine is 100 years old and those union minibuses would be getting on for 40 years old (if they still existed) Time just keeps happening. (numbers for illustration only, some rounding has taken place)
  26. 0 points
    Please forgive me if this is a repost, or somehow off topic. It shows the many trials of crossing the USA with a convoy at that time. If only they had "talkies" then... Jarrod. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZJKxkfF1D8
  27. 0 points
    Got the pictures today
  28. 0 points
    The first test I would do is to pull the HT lead from the coil out of the dizzy cap. Take the cap off, then hold the end of the HT lead over the centre contact of the rotor arm and spin the engine. If the spark jumps to the rotor arm then the arm is faulty and shorting to Earth. Replace rotor arm. If the spark does not jump to the arm, then hold it close a bare metal part of the engine then spin the engine, you should expect a good spark that will jump about 10mm regards Richard
  29. 0 points
    You could be right, maybe worth thinking about in the future. Evening All, I want to get all the tools, boxes, etc that are attached to the track guards in place before I remove the upper hull, all of the tools are held in place by these clips, An original My version I had thought that they would all be the same and I would just have to make 8 identical clips but in true German fashion, nothings that simple. There are 7 different variations to make, some just bigger or small but others totally different so each one takes a bit of experimentation. They were all lined with felt or similar, so that has to taken into account and that will be riveted in place after they have had a coat of under coat. That's all for now Jon
  30. 0 points
    I know some of the history. Here is a good image of it in its previous incarnation.
  31. 0 points
    “ OMG I love this spray gun “ Purchased a new spray gun following advice from several forum members and what a difference, low pressure, easy to use and no wasted paint. Old spray gun soon to be recycled!! I wasn’t happy with the paint finish on the cab, it was a Matt finish and quite rough to touch, so I decided to flat it off and mix cellulose thinners with the synthetic paint, some of you will probably remember that I did this accidentally a couple of months ago and wasn't sure how it would react with the first coat of paint, so after letting the paint cure for a few weeks I tried a couple of testers of the cellulose mix, the finish was satin and smooth so just when I thought I was done with painting for a while I repainted the cab 😬
  32. 0 points
    Or a Christmas Reindeer ? The truck is a Canadian Military Pattern (CMP) Ford with what is called a Number 13 cab (the final style). Probably a 3 ton F60L. The British army had them in considerable numbers. David
  33. 0 points
    Got to say, this is a great blog, I've thoroughly enjoyed following your progress so far.. Keep it going!
  34. 0 points
    Thanks for the info, all help is appreciated 👍 However.... I may have solved the problem, while rained off site today I came up with a cunning plan🙄 or did I !! The old seal was well passed repair. After a quick rummage through the parts bin and salvaged a couple of parts from the original seal I ended up with these. The original seal was a D type double seal , internal seal to retain oil and external to prevent water and dirt ingress ( info and picture courtesy of oil seals uk ) Stripped the internals out and grind the edge off the seal , used one of the leather seals as a spacer and insert 2 Land Rover series hub seals bedded into silicone, refit the original outer casing and locking ring. New double seal created and gearbox back together 🤞it’s got 2 choices
  35. 0 points
    I've always had good results from https://www.acorn-ind.co.uk/ and https://www.vintagebearings.co.uk/ If the leather is just a flat piece of leather contact these guys https://www.par-group.co.uk/ they cut out new leather seals for my Scammells back hub seals.
  36. 0 points
    Thank's yes it was certainly 'tricky' I used several other descriptors for it while doing the the job, if it had just been in the horizontal and vertical plane it would have been fairly straightforward however as the upward curve begins so the whole molding starts to lean back into the scuttle something like 15 to 20 degrees from the vertical following the pressing for the door post. The difficult bit was trying to form a series of bends and depressions two of which form 90' bends into three orientations while not introducing distortion, needless to say the first attempt ended in the scrap pile Pete
  37. 0 points
    Another old post but here is a civi Austin K2 on an RAF airfield just after D-Day to collect casualties of a Douglas Dakota. As my Dad remembers as an erk at RAF Broadwell and later RAF Down Ampney, it was all hands to the pump to remove the wounded from the aircraft on to ambulances as quickly as possible. Often the RAF personnel would give emergency aid in the shape of a Woodbine Cigarette, as smoking was good for you in 1944! Note civi registration and no large red crosses. As for the RAF use of Austin K2s on UK airfields I seem to remember that RAFM say this was from late 1945 and after VE-Day, so if you own an RAF Blue K2 then paint the front mudguards gloss black and it will look very smart in postwar colours as of April 1946.
  38. 0 points
    The tyres on the one dismounted wooden wheel are shot so Steve cut it back to the metal band and then used an angle grinder to cut through that. The tyre just pings off and we parked that for disposal and the wheel for the next step of restoration.
  39. 0 points
    We need to get the rear wheels sorted and the pair we want to use are on the other Peerless so we had to swap them over with the metal wheels we have in stock. First task was to move all the stuff which was stored on and around the Peerless and tow it out into the open to make room. These wheels are very heavy and we used the engine hoist to secure them. The first one came off really easily which surprised us all and the metal wheel went on without any problem. The other side was a different story and after most of the day gone we had to give up and put the Peerless away again and Steve will come back with his hydraulic press and see if he can adapt that with a Jim Crow and see if that will make any difference.
  40. 0 points
    A bit more progress over the weekend. The Peerless is fighting back again so we didn’t get as far forwards as we would have liked. The first task was to put the back axle on, using the engine hoist to life it into position. Unfortunately it didn’t seem to fit and then we realised that there should be a mounting plate on top and rubber block underneath. Looking in the spare parts drawer Steve pulled out an axle with the remains of springs still attached. Taking an angle grinder to that he soon produced a very tired but serviceable pair which he now fitted to the axle. A few hours later on while rummaging in the spare parts box for something else Dad found a much better set which were cleaned up and fitted to the axle. This looks a lot better but we could not do the axle up tight as we required a deep socket which we did not have.
  41. 0 points
    Thanks Tapper, it feels very close and yet there are still several major hurdles to negotiate but that's all part of the challenge. Time for an update me thinks. I have finished the engine cover although I have cheated and used 1.6mm steel sheet for the covers to save weight. Around the opening of this cover there is a radiused section, best shown in this picture. Also there is a 15mm gap right around the covers, too big a gap to be just clearance. I had assumed that it was a rain water channel but the more I studied the pictures I realised that the reason for the large gap and the radiused section was to allow air into the engine bay around the sides of the covers but I assume, not allow splinters to enter. On the original tank the two covers were not locked together, the lower over had no locking mechanism being held in place by it's own weight and the top cover having a locking mechanism. In my tank the covers lock together, as the lower door is not heavy enough stay in place on it's own. The radio operators escape hatch mow has it's latch and handle. Next to the radio operators chair there is a wall which is part of the engine bay bulkhead which for some reason is cut across at about 45 degrees Most probably to give access to the engine bay from inside the tank. Most of the pictures that I can find show this as being a bolted in section apart from one that shows it as having a hinged access door. I decided that as my ignition coil and amplifier are situated in this area a hinged cover would be a very good idea. When I made the radiator hinged cover, I made it as a two piece assembly. Once the hull top was in place it became obvious that it wouldn't close and should have been made in three sections. The only thing that then concerned me, was would it block the radio operators escape hatch. Once I had altered it, it became obvious that it tucks away nicely out of the way. The radio aerial on the panzer 2 is raised from inside the tank using this device. The handle is rotated up to raise that aerial and rotated down to lower it. The end of the handle is sprung so that when it is in the raised position it locks it's self in position, to lower the aerial you pull the end of the handle out and rotate it down. The unit to the right of the main unit contained a rotary coupling for the cable from the aerial to the radio apparatus. The shaft going between the rotating unit and the aerial outside the tank would have been in two parts and insulated so that the operator didn't get a shock when he touch the handle. In mine the shaft is in one piece. The radio mast was attached to the shaft via a coupling. This is the one on the Panzer ii in Bovington. And mine. When the mast is in the down position, it lays in a wooded tray that is bolted to the track guard. Sorry that it was such a long update, I get carried away or as my darling wife says, I should be carried away. Jon
  42. 0 points
    Back to the Government disposals of 1919 this advertisement that appeared in 'Surplus' for June 1919 predates Slough involvement when it was still a free for all regarding the sale of motor transport. The magazine 'Surplus' was an official weekly government publication which ran into the early 1920s. What was on offer and the quantities are truly amazing from kitchen utensils to floating docks , railway locomotives to aerodromes and complete factories with township included .Some incorrect spelling in this one, Garrick should read Garrett and Rushton being Ruston ,all smaller steam tractors. (The Rushton ic engine tractor by AEC did not appear until 1928 ) . Richard Peskett.
  43. 0 points
    Western Desert German War Graves, North Africa Western Desert
  44. 0 points
    So we are coming to the end of this topic with photos focused on the Haifa Baghdad Military road because we have moved through WWII and into post war civilian vehicles. But we have not mentioned motorcycles so here a couple of photographs. Matchless 350cc in stuck Wadi After the war it became possible to obtain personnel goods, so my friend purchased an Indian Chief, mainly chosen because his mother owned and rode an Indian motorcycle during WWI in Syria and Iraq. Pictured on the K3 road Iraq. 6 October 1949.
  45. 0 points
    Quick update on the tank Two patches welded on today, haven't done any cutting out of rust, smoothing off etc, just welded a patch on big enough to cover the rusty area. This side of the tank faces the chassis and you won't see it. Main concern is to stop any leaks. At the time of writing, it has been sitting on these tressles for about 3 hours. Patches downwards and about 4 gallon of diesel inside. No sign of any leaks so far, so reasonably confident the welding is good. Intend leaving it over night to make sure. If it's all good finish cleaning off the old paint, then on with the new
  46. 0 points
    Managed a few hours over the last weeknights and over the weekend getting the woodwork removed. Managed to undo some bolts but the majority either sheared or I had to cut off. Those that did undo are beyond use, very badly corroded.. no surprise really! Managed to get one of the mudguards off, these have the attachment points welded to the bed uprights and a variety of hex bolts, countersunk and round headed screws holding on the guards. Any advice on what they should be attached with? The rear support let came off with little trouble. Of interest, it had a square plate between the clamp and the trailer chassis, the front one (which won't budge) does not. Any thoughts why? Some clean up and un-seizing will be required!
  47. 0 points
    If you want a good replica then give Chris Golding a call, I have several of his and you won’t find better in the UK.
  48. 0 points
    So cleared the rotten bed off and started on the driver side boards With the bed removed I noticed pre-drilled holes on second crossmember, would this be standard so the chassis can be used for mortar or GS trailers? Also, you'll notice on the third cross member two huge coach bolts.. a bit random, I assume these were repairs I had spotted the white X number before but only when I was working on getting the coach bolts out did I notice some yellow, looks like B 5?? The tongue of the tongue and groove is remarkably well d, lasted 70+ years!
  49. 0 points
    Both support legs are present, one has a domed top end, the other open, I have seen both in the manuals and on restored examples, so plan to unseize the rear one and just try to straighten them up
  50. 0 points
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