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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/24/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I'm not taking any chances, being an auto electrician I have self insulated. Joking aside I have come out of retirement to drive artics for a supermarket company. We are gradually getting back to normal as suppliers have in many cases ramped production up by 50% and we are working round the clock but there are still plenty of retards abusing the system by stockpiling perishable food which will have rotted long before it gets used.
  2. 1 point
    What we do to pass the time at the moment, 🙄
  3. 1 point
    Don't you need to go to work or shopping? 🙂 Andy
  4. 1 point
    Vehicles that require an MOT will be Exempt for 6 months during the Corona crisis https://www.gov.uk/guidance/coronavirus-covid-19-mots-for-cars-vans-and-motorcycles-due-from-30-march-2020?fbclid=IwAR06FK0QRjTmysnuYjkgFvAHmVolsw_Shi8Gsc_MImyN09afWge2t1-OUNc
  5. 1 point
    Sir you have my respect for what you are doing and there are to many who agree with what you and your colleagues are doing and will not express their thoughts
  6. 1 point
    Looking good, Duncan. I don't know how many of the original coach fittings you have, but there has been a nice 20's period Disturnal & Co. catalogue on ebay for a while. The price is a bit a rich, but I reckon the drawings of the items are a lot older than the catalogue date. I find these types of items interesting in that they give clues as to what things should look like. It does not seem to be a sensible time to be spending cash, though! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1929-MOTOR-OMNIBUS-BODY-FITTINGS-CATALOGUE-R-DISTURNAL-CO-WEDNESBURY-STAFFS/202932784464?hash=item2f3fbc8d50:g:~EwAAOSw5-hcAxu5 Dave (S&F)
  7. 0 points
    At this time of gloom something to brighten our day up as we have had the final event and tally up to this project we made just over £50,000 profit from the sale of the soldiers with the majority being bought by the descendants and home owners who have re erected on public space near their homes or at the homes of the war dead . The money has been divided up between the local charities and Trusts that financially supported the project at the beginning including our local branch of the Legion who get about £5k. One of event organisers for the soldiers contacted the IWM for the use of the image which was agreed and the end result I was presented with a framed copy for my efforts which I was deeply moved by . The photo was taken by the Australian Frank Hurley of Australian troops at Passchendaele who was also the photographer for the Shackleton polar expedition as a point of interest. I know several people on this forum made the journey last year to Mersea to see the soldiers in position and contacted me hence the reason for this final post to let you know the outcome.
  8. 0 points
    You also forgot "its not where I left it"
  9. 0 points
    Friend is working on our ambulance, nuts and bolts renovation.
  10. 0 points
  11. 0 points
    State of play so far !!!!!!! So after 3 years of doing nothing on the 1st Tilly due to ill health I have decided to made a start with some easy jobs. Engine / Gearbox & engine bay is finished but I never started & test run the 'new' engine.
  12. 0 points
    it's not you, it's Facebook, impossible to link to I have no idea why people use that instead of just creating a you-tube channel . Please try this. One nasty little Kitty 😉 https://streamable.com/vtgdg
  13. 0 points
    Now eyeing up the next job - we have two King Pins that will want tidying up but will be fit to be used again but only one nut for them so the second nut will have to be made. They are 2" A/F and the thread is either 1.42" x16 or maybe 1.40" x16 - depends which one you measure. We have 2" Hex steel in stock so that should be a straight forward job.
  14. 0 points
    three days of work and the stairs are repaired
  15. 0 points
    As one of the fortunate few who can walk across the yard to get to the workshop, I feel duty bound to share with those who cannot in these unusual times. So here's some pictures from earlier this year re-fitting the clutch. Flywheel painted, ready to receive clutch components. Grease applied to mating face. In with the clutch cone. Followed by the cover... and the spring. Winding in the spring adjuster with the new laser cut spanner. Note the grub screw and locking slot in the adjuster. Clutch release bearing, stop, lock nut, spacer and repaired retaining bolt for the drive coupling. Retaining bolt had deep gouges as a result of having been undone with a hammer and cold chisel. These have been welded up and filed back to shape. And back in position. New 3/8"BSF nuts and bolts from Trojan Special Fasteners at Birmingham. Pedal shaft and bearings ready for lifting into position... Pedal shaft in position. Thanks to my brother David for being a second pair of hands. Clutch stop and drive coupling fitted.
  16. 0 points
    Ambidexterous and Impimet compatable.
  17. 0 points
    I see that you have both left and right handed adjustables, the big question is are they imperial or metric?
  18. 0 points
    Nothing, some are at my parents house and others are stored on a farm, but Boris will be upset if I visit them!
  19. 0 points
    Another great find arrived in the post a couple of days ago.
  20. 0 points
    Weird times indeed. We are under restrictions in the netherlands. Trying to keep distance while shopping is difficult, some people just are stupid. I have sometimes a bit of a smokers couch (never smoked!), so am afrain to couch while outside in fear of starting a panic stampede. So I travel to Backyardville, Islamabathroom and Balconia. It does give me time to finish my Galactica models...🙂 Anyway, stay safe all and hopefully we'll be able to pick up where we left off soon.
  21. 0 points
    I fear that you are correct, most of the usual suspects have cancelled. Its very disappointing. Not as disappointing as being dead would be but still..... On the plus side, it's potentially a summer of restoration so we can hit the shows next year en masses!
  22. 0 points
    Items fitted and looking right !
  23. 0 points
    better, short way to finnish
  24. 0 points
    It might be worth getting a engineer machinist to have a look and give an opinion. I have a mate who may be able to help out. I will send him the picture and see the best way.
  25. 0 points
    Dave is getting into self isolation and preforming his magic on the seats
  26. 0 points
    Paul no electrical shut down on these. You just operate the valve lifter which lifts the exhaust valve off it's seat (2 strokes have a decompressor which just opens the cylinder to atmosphere) The valve lifter is also used for easier starting by allowing you to get the engine past the compression stroke, for a good easy swing on the kickstarter. Ron
  27. 0 points
    Keep looking, It took me 29 trips over about 16 years to locate another engine for my 1916 Albion A10. I had found a front axle for it in the New South Wales town of Cooma and was informed that an engine existed somewhere in the local area. Before the 29th trip looking for it, my son said," Give it away Dad. You won't find it." Stubborn I am and the 29th trip proved fruitful and I found the engine in a privet bush.
  28. 0 points
    Dad managed to get that worn-out Bush out of the Back Spring. Fortuitously, he has a piece of 1.75" Diam Bronze Tube in stock for a new one which he picked up some years ago at a local Tool Shop - 8" length for just £4 - a bargain. He knew that one day it would be useful!
  29. 0 points
    Well firstly, I hope you're all staying safe, and aren't climbing the walls what with social distancing, etc. I find myself stuck in a hotel for work, not sure when I am going to leave, and thought it might be a good moment to update this thread (five years since my last post!). The update is - there's no major news! The hunt for an engine and gearbox continues, no leads so far, but I did manage to track down a gentleman who owned an engine, unfortunately 30 years ago! I desperately hope that engine still exists, and is laying forgotten at the back of a workshop somewhere. I suspect when the time comes I will have to put a non-standard engine in. My chassis should at least come out of storage this year and into its new home in the garage, and I think I have sufficient parts to at least make a good start on it sometime soon. Stay safe in these worrying times, and don't forget that self isolation doesn't have to be in the house, it could be in the workshop! 😀
  30. 0 points
    A bit cheaper here Ian: https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/842-container-ignition-indicator-lamp I have recently done the dash on my Standard Flying 12
  31. 0 points
    Hi Alex I will have a look in the morning I may only have a couple of heads left
  32. 0 points
    Three types of toolboxes have been used on the WD/C: The first type is the pre war toolbox with a key lock. The toolbox was used for storing the tool roll, and being immobilised on a battlefield because you lost your key and couldn’t repair your motorcycle must have been an unpleasant thought... The second type looked a lot like the first type, but a knurled screw, to keep the toolbox closed, replaced the key lock... (August 1940 onwards) The third type also had a knurled screw, but the lid was bigger than on the second type. (July 1941 onwards). This one was also used briefly on the very first WD/CO models.
  33. 0 points
    Later contracts were still using the lock box and then went to the knob type. I expect Jan will know roughly when? They used an even different style on the first contract WD/CO before deleting it altogether Ron
  34. 0 points
    Morris Commercial engine, looks like it is set up to drive a compressor or generator.
  35. 0 points
    Yes, that's right, the Enfield contracts after this had the locks soon deleted, and a knurled nut installed, have you actually ever seen that Ron? Here also a picture of the key, tiny thing!! about an inch long. This bike has magneto ignition, so no need for a key or a kill button, the decompressor is used for that, Cheers, Lex
  36. 0 points
    Me too! Currently restoring a Lucas PLC5 switch for my 39 C10. Ron
  37. 0 points
    Ok, I never bothered with taking the lid off in the end, ground the 4 little rivets off on the inside of the lid, and then the fun began!!! in the end I did not need any of the parts from the spare lock, and managed to save everything, on metal lip broke off on the hinged part, but soft soldered it back on again! all that was wrong really was a lot of old dried out grease, sand, rust, paint and blasting grit that was inside the lock, took me about 3 afternoons of work though! Cheers, Lex
  38. 0 points
    With the coronavirus lockdown tightening, "Hope", has followed "Faith" the Dodge and is now up on wooden blocks to take the weight off the tyres. The prospect of getting out is fairly low, especially since I need to move a normal car and the other Jeep to get "Hope" out of the garage. So for now, the Dodge and GPW are off their wheels and off the road and taking a rest until this all blows over. "Jessie" is still accessible and able to be driven, so I have the option of going for a drive should conditions allow, or to take the vehicle out, turn the wheels and park up again. Until the virus situation takes a turn for the better, two thirds of my fleet are hibernating.
  39. 0 points
    Admiralty threads are used in a few places on 1922/39 Austin 7hp cars. I suspect they were common on most Longbridge products into the '60's. Tracy tools are well regarded by the Austin 7 community.
  40. 0 points
    Thanks Chris appreciate that advice. Huge day today Happy with the paint work now that needs about a week to dry and matt itself down like the headlight then its census numbers Norton logos and lacquer speaking of Lacquer I've moved onto testing a few different brands the speedo is with hycote matt 3 coats next to the bare paint. Thanks to everyone for all the advice the paint came out brilliant on the 2nd go.
  41. 0 points
    Might be worth trying here: http://www.baileybridgemodel.co.uk/
  42. 0 points
    I just put two and a half gallons of fuel in a couple of weeks ago. Normally over the winter when there's no events, I either get them out on the drive once a month, give them a good warm through, exercise the brakes and clutch etc, or so long as there's no salt on the roads, go for a short drive. I'm probably going to be doing this over the Summer. So long as we aren't all confined to barracks, I may take them out on the date events were to happen and dig out some old event photos from that show. We can have a virtual season.
  43. 0 points
    So for the past eleven months effort has focused on getting the the D15 up to the rolling chassis stage but now it's back to working on the Leyland. This phase is all about wheels and tyres and working towards getting the truck moving under its own power for first time in nearly 60 years. A journey into the unknown at the back of the barn was in order to unearth the rear wheels and tyres that had not been touched since I bought the truck nearly 30 years ago safe to say they had not improved with keeping however the rats’ mice and spiders had found them most accommodating. The Retriver runs on 900.20 tyres mounted on split rims held in place with a locking ring like a ginat snap ring this type of system is known in the trade as the ‘Widow Maker type’…….. well there’s encouraging then. First job was to remove the valve core completely and after the tyre had deflated poke a length of wire down the stem and into the tube cavity to ensure that there was no blockage that could result residual pressure in the tube. If everything works as it should the outer rim is pushed down a little to start to free the locking ring from the groove then using two tyre levers the locking ring is prized out of the groove in the outer rim, turn the tyre over and the main part of the rim just drops out…..oh how we laughed!.....the only way to do it after 80 years was to cut the tyres up with a Fein saw fitted with a course blade which actually made very short work of them to be fair. Here’s a tyre after having a close encounter with the Fein saw This is the pile of inner and outer rims and locking rings ready for de-rusting After rust and residual paint removal an undercoat of zinc rich primer has been applied Pete
  44. 0 points
    I have also done some work on all the small annoying bits that take ages . These include both foot and hand throttle linkages ,manual advance and retard linkages . Most of this was missing or in a very bad state There is also a linkage from the clutch that turns the the self cleaning oil filter . Ever time the clutch is depressed a lever moves a ratchet on the auto clean filter to turn it about 20 degrees The auto clean filter is made up of a series of discs anchored to the main shaft , in between each disc is a .005 1nch shim that is supposed to scrape any gunge into a separate small sump under the oil filter . Every 500 miles this sump is drained
  45. 0 points
    So, via a circuitous route, I've been introduced to Geoff Lumb from Huddersfield. Whilst we have yet to meet, we've had long conversations by telephone. He's clearly spent an awful long time immersed in all things Clayton & Co and Karrier. Geoff was present when my lorry was recovered from Manor Farm in 1977. In the photograph below, he's the gentleman on the right of the picture. Does anyone recognise any of the other faces? Am feeling extremely grateful right now as Geoff has sent me this drawing of a "Petrol Motor Lurry To Carry 4 Tons" based on the Karrier chassis, and given me permission to reproduce the drawing here. Not only is the drawing fully dimensioned, but it also indicates the different timbers used in the construction, including Ash, Oak, Birch and Red Deal. I have re-drawn the lurry body in Autocad and superimposed it on the drawing of my chassis. The chassis length in this drawing matches mine! This is the first concrete evidence I have found of different chassis lengths. Also reassuring that when my chassis was repaired all those years ago, it was done to the original specification. Just look at the sizes of the timbers: Longitudinal Runners 6" x 3" x 10'9" long. Floorboards 1.1/2" thick Red Deal. Front Bolster 3" x 11.1/2" x 6'6", Rear Bolster 3" x 12.7/8" x 6'6" Headboard has 3 off 7" x 1" x 78" Oak planks and 1 off 9" x 2" Ash Rail. I assume that all other framing was Ash. Note: the body slopes up towards the back by 1.3/8" or approximately 1 degree. Curious. Am also working on a Solidworks 3d cad model of the body which may appear on here in due course.
  46. 0 points
    Marcel, My brother only has the lathe and the switchboard. Switchboard is Austin and has W^D on one of the meters. Differs from the Duxford example in that it is open, not in a cabinet. Also the voltage regulator is built into the panel whereas the Duxford example has the voltage regulator bolted onto the dynamo. We understand it was discovered in a motor repair garage. May have been W^D surplus equipment, re-purposed. Or may have been constructed by Austin for civilian use, using surplus W^D components. He is looking for the following tools: Silver Mfg Co No 24 drill Luke & Spencer grinder Wolf electric drill & stand He also needs an Austin 8 hp, 4 cylinder T-head radiator cooled 110v generating set with 3.5 kw dynamo and shunt regulator. Regards Doc
  47. 0 points
    Hi Chris thanks, I normally tow my 1942 20cwt generator trailer behind it but soon it might be this bowser.
  48. 0 points
    Yes a good question and with the benefit of hindsight. I guess the key to anything like this is your budget, availability of parts and, resources to be able to undertake a restoration like this. If you want to drive a vehicle straight away then you need to budget for an up and running vehicle. If you want the enjoyment of a restoration then you want to get as much as you can in the way of spares from the outset. It would also be preferable to view what you are getting. Luckily we had reliable contacts in the UK to view the vehicle and the previous owner was also great to deal with. We were also lucky to get a good amount of spares as in another set of track, road wheels and 2 engines. Locally we sourced a reconditioned gearbox. Also locally a full set of parts and reference manuals plus a local person’s experience of restoring armoured vehicles including cvrts. During the restoration further spares have been sourced and we will store these hopefully never to be used. Whilst the vehicle is not internally 100% complete we were happy from the outset that externally it would look the part. Perhaps in time we will get a turret basket and other kit to fit it out. When I embarked on this project I had no previous experience so was learning all the way. Proves anything can be done when you set your mind to it. You do need good support from your beloved, don’t try and work to a strict budget (but do what needs to be done), and don’t rush things. I’m not sure in hindsight that there are any major regrets and I think we where we wanted to be. No worries getting it dirty as we want to have fun. It has now done to static displays at show over 2 weeks.
  49. 0 points
    A few weeks ago (January 6 to be precise) I posted some photos of the front axle we were considering using. It was complete but in fairly rusty. Steve had a poke around in the stores and found another one which was in much better condition complete with steering parts and perhaps an easier proposition. He and Dad have taken this apart and have put it in the pile for sandblasting. The kingpins seem to be in good condition which is excellent news. Something else we dont have to make.
  50. 0 points
    Hi All interested parties in the Vickers Gun at Sunderland I have recently taken over the manufacture of replacement wheels, from another volunteer, for the gun using all the original parts apart from the wood inserts. I am at present completing the first wheel. The intention is that when the wheels are complete and the Military Vehicle Museums new display hall is errected at the Sunderland Aircraft Museum the gun will be fully refurbished and housed in the hall. I will keep you updated on how it is progressing. Regards Dave
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