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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/29/2020 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Welcome with your enthusiastic post. I think the last time I was near a Foden steam wagon was in the 1960s at Parky Bates at Lanchester County Durham.
  2. 1 point
    Hi all, my name is Aubrey (60s baby and parents with a sense of humour!!) and I live near Blandford in Dorset. I was about 12 watching “A bridge too far” where James Caan, playing Sgt. Eddie Dohun, was driving a Jeep up the side of a hill, bumping all over the place without any problem, decided then, one day, I would own one Many years later, having drooled over Jeeps and anything to do with them, in March 2018, I managed to buy a 1943 MB that I have restored and have had running (on and off) since Easter 2019 My wife thinks I’m barking mad as we had both served in the British Army, me 25 years, she (a mere) 12 years, where we spent the majority of our time maintaining our vehicles My current project is a “not very military” Yellow VW campervan for her ladyship but it does mean we can go to shows together! I'm hoping my next project will be a trailer for the Jeep
  3. 1 point
    G'day lads. Not millitary but old and interesting are this pair of derelict trucks dad and I brought home. The Hallford is reasonably complete, but has some engine problems. The Lacre 5 tonner has a few issues with the transaxle casing, plus the engine is a bit rough. More photos etc on the Solid Tyred Trucks group on FB.
  4. 1 point
    Ahhh. There's nothing like the thrill of acquiring something(s) unusual. Well done!
  5. 1 point
    Ah yes they had also those coil springs.
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  7. 1 point
    If i see the extra coil springs i would say a Mannesmann-Mulag.
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  9. 1 point
    Nice find! They will come back OK with a bit of persistence. Looking forward to following the story! Steve 🙂
  10. 1 point
    This is the connection to the radio outlet box (just a plain metal junction box) located on the inside of the body below the passenger all ACM 1 and 2 bodies were fitted with it as standard from MB 217543 March 1943 onward GPW's would have followed on at about the same time. Pete
  11. 1 point
    If I'm reading data plates correctly..... Serial 432030 DOD 4/3/45 I believe April 3/45. Could be original motor. Parts came in by rail car so they just grabbed which ever one came off first. 1945 MB should be ACM 2 body. look on toe board gusset on driver side. should be stamped on the side. https://g503.com/oldsite/serial-numbers/view.php?record_id=2006 Serial number 431759.with WD number 1945-04-03 Willys MB 430095 Barker 1945-04-03 Willys MB 431735 Tate 1945-04-03 Willys MB 431740 Sandhu 1945-04-03 Willys MB 431759 Braeger 1945-04-03 Willys MB 431867 Bennett Ascending Descending Ascending Descending Ascending Descending 1945-04-03 Willys MB 431973 Durtschi 1945-04-03 Willys MB 431999 Wilson 1945-04-03 Willys MB 432008 Fattig 1945-04-03 Willys MB 432088 Bennett 1945-04-03 Willys MB 432101 Landino 1945-04-03 Willys MB 432126 Hubert 1945-04-03 Willys MB 432126 Hubert These are all from the old G503 serial number datatbase. Sorry.. Got bored Did some digging. Also.. plate beside glove box.. Is there any holes behind it or is it just hiding where bubba hid his jukebox? Jason
  12. 1 point
    Probably been told this already... be careful stripping it down. quite possible numbers on hood, windshield, bumpers, and back panel. They could be under all that paint... Jason
  13. 1 point
    I don't know what your rebuild plans are, but after stripping mine, I cleaned up all the small parts, oil filter housing, footman loops, pedals etc, and repainted them. They were then wrapped and boxed out of the way. When the main rebuild started, all those parts were completed, ready to be fitted when needed. I ended up using two and a half 5 litre tins of paint sprayed. I started with two 5 litre tins but towards the end of the project it was clear another would be needed which also gave me some for future touch ups.
  14. 1 point
    Ahhh, now here is a story, originally i was attracted to the 42GPW which was ok i guess, after speaking to mike he informed me 75% of the imports the get now are Ford tubs and Willys were getting harder to source (amazing because more were built) The Jeep generally is more original to its factory day and is in sounder condition, minor work to the side panels/floor joint the footwells already repaired to a good standard rear floor is sound just a bit in the tool storage to work on, i listened carefully to the advice given by the guys that long term this would be a decent option, I am as you know somewhat green, this is my material to work with and hopefully we will get on fine.
  15. 1 point
    It's all fairly straight forward stuff, read your manuals take note of the tolerance specs for bushes and bearings and don't be tempted to cut corners on the mechanical work it will only come back to bite at a later date. If you haven't found this site already it would be worth having a look and putting it in your favorites folder there is a huge repository of knowledge from around the world of Jeeps here https://forums.g503.com/ some of the posts need a bit of filtering but it's well worth looking through the technical section particularity the engine and transmission rebuilding blogs that have been pinned at the top of the forum. Look forward to following your restoration blog Pete
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    I found this camouflaged G S shovel at a steam rally in 1993. It is marked W/I\D. Be a bit hard to find it in the rose garden though.
  18. 1 point
    Evening everybody, I am so impressed with every aspect of your post Andrew, what you are doing with these 2 vehicles is amazing ! I spend my time rebuilding 100 year old plus engines that you have to sleeve, re-cut, re-bore and weld up and a million other thing's just to keep them alive and you need a chain saw just to take them home ! stunning ! Thank you for posting now and over the next few years ! Andy
  19. 1 point
    Evening All, On the inside of the hull below the drivers hatch there is a tray that, I assume, holds a rubber seal, I cant find any pictures of the open hatch showing this area so that is purely an educated guess. On the front of the hull there are two towing hitches, one either side, on the original tank these had a tendency to brake off, apparently due to the incorrect towing procedure. As I need to be able to use these for actually towing the vehicle, they need to be strong and as I didn't have any material of the correct size available, I decided to modify a couple to tractor towing hooks. I know that they are not the same profile as the originals but I didn't want to weaken them too much. That's all for now. Jon
  20. 1 point
    looks like quite a project!
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  22. 1 point
    Not retired, just very tired. I have always been like it, whether it's at work or home, I want the project finished so that I can start the next one. That's not to say I don't enjoy it, or that I am rushing it, I just need to see forward progress at a pace that I feel is acceptable. I plan each stage, and try to foresee any problems, so I build each component multiple times in my mind and even in my sleep, that way all my workshop time is productive. I still find problems, cock up but that's me just being male. Thanks again for taking an interest and the time to comment. Jon
  23. 1 point
    Evening All, I decided to add some detail to the front of the hull while I was waiting for the vacuum components to arrive, the small maintenance hatch doesn't open, it's just there for show. The brackets either side. are to wrap a tow steel rope around. The locking mechanism seems overly complex to my mind but it was interesting to construct. My version. On the top of the hatch there's a square socket so that one can open the hatch from the outside, I used an old 3/8" drive socket and brazed it onto the end of the main shaft. A bit of a short update but that's all I have had time to achieve lately. Jon
  24. 1 point
    February 2020. Not too much progress lately due to working outside in the cold mainly! Few parts needing repair, few parts blasted and primed.
  25. 1 point
    Contrary to popular belief, the RAF Museum has never owned a Beverly. The RAF parked one up at RAF Hendon as a gate guardian, after they finally moved out and many months of badgering by the museum a team was sent to inspect it. The team concluded it was too badly corroded internally and thus the airframe was scrapped before it was ever passed on to the museum.
  26. 1 point
    Very nice! Tony
  27. 1 point
    It's not your fault Lex! I've been here many times before.....and far worse! But at my age I wouldn't want to take them on again. I've still got the same perseverance and determination. But while the mind is willing, sometimes the body is a bit weak.😉 Ron
  28. 1 point
    Hi no nothing on the back apart from its just black and its I would say small cup size like a tax disc holder size
  29. 1 point
    I have received an email from "Pentecost" regarding the manual that I am preparing on IBMU repairs. This is well underway but has been slowed down by my work on the Clansman PSU50A repair document. Members interested in this and the PRC320 can search the http//sars.club website (The Southdown Amateur Radio Society). The document "Clansman PSU50A repair guide" will probably come up in search engines as will the "Clansman PRC320 RT320 repair and servicing" These abridged articles will give members an overview of common problems and suggestions for suitable repair solutions. The IBMU document should be completed in the near future and will probably be published on the SARS site in the first instance. Barry G8DXU
  30. 0 points
    Today a lifelong Dream came true! Thanks to everyone for all the advice Here's my Norton WD 16h ignore the paint off on the head stock they were looking for the number in the wrong place I phoned them on the Thursday night before viewing day when I asked them to look in the correct place an there it was revealing history! Drove 8 hours or so round trip on Friday to go look at her Got lucky an won her at auction on Saturday via a telephone bid think I gave the auctioneer quite the start when I screamed yes down the phone! Found out so far she was from a Contract for RAF Sidecar combinations which was a late 44' Contract. Most amazingly thanks to the help of everyone on the WD scene sure it will be an ever growing list of thanks An in particular Thanks to Rik Nick Ron Rob Sven an the gang we found out the engine was from a Contract where some went to North Africa where my grandpa served. This has got army rebuild stamps on the belly to which is all part of the bikes story. At the moment although most of her is wd parts. Shes in civilian paint and in need of me doing a restoration on her although most is WD on her. Initially I thought the engine was a 41' but thanks to the lads I found out it was 42 an may have saw action in Africa 43' thanks to an amazing picture of a bike from the same contract and hand written underneath with North Africa 43' My initial plan was one of the green shades either the 44' colour then raf logos or the earlier green but now knowing the engine is 42' I've decided to do service brown SCC No.2 and doing it with maybe a 7th armoured logo and the engines contract number on the tank As my Grandpa was in the Royal Artillery in the 8th Army in 1942 as a gunner then transferred to RAOC in 1944' to me it sort of makes sense with the engines history to lean towards that! Got a lil idea to pay homage to the raf connection once I've drawn what I've got in my head. The plan first is to pop the cylinder head off so I can see what I'm dealing with whatever she needs I'll do can't wait to get her on the road. So without further ado here's a clip of my adventure today collecting her. https://youtu.be/OnblIkLOvlE For those in the UK who do you use for SCC No.2 paint that's accurate as can be? Does anyone know of any suppliers for 1" bar clamps? What's everyone's favourite tyres on them? Thanks in advance, Tom
  31. 0 points
    Will be going down that road shortly. I want to fit a filter/separater into the system like I fitted to the timber tractor. It is astounding how much dirt that colllects even when you only use "clean" diesel from reputable garages. Early Militants like mine don't have any kind of filter between tank and lift pump. It's asking for trouble really
  32. 0 points
    Jolien, I have replied in the other thread to this. The image in that book is of a vehicle in use with 2TAF, they painted roundels on place of the invasions stars. EDIT: My mistake, just checked the book and it is not 2TAF as the photo was taken after the war. It is in fact serving with BAFO
  33. 0 points
    Jolien, I'm not sure which of my colleagues at the RAF Museum supplied you that information, but I can assure you that they were incorrect, and possibly misunderstood what was being asked. Firstly the RAF had long stopped using blue-grey by the time the C15 was introduced into the RAF. Secondly, even assuming it was blue-grey, the roundel on the front offside wasn't officially introduced until April 1941, around the time some commands were camouflaging their vehicles. Thirdly, the command letter was introduced in August 1941 at the same time the RAF mandated all vehicles would be camouflaged. The group number that came after the command letter wasn't introduced until January 1942. Also, there would not have been roundels on the sides of the body, and the only roundel on the rear would be a small one on the nearside the same as that carried on the front offside wing. If your example has evidence of RAF blue-grey paint on it, then this is likely from it's post-war service.
  34. 0 points
    I may have to be heading back to Hull again next week, hopefully more time and i can ask the neighbours if i find the door is shut
  35. 0 points
    hello Ian, I would have liked the RAF identification number of the vehicle, the color codes of the roundel and the correct dimensions so that I can make this for the vehicle and the correct command that fits the vehicle. we have found an identification number but do not know whether it is suitable for the vehicle. RAF160116. hopefully you will find an answer to these questions. thank you in advance.
  36. 0 points
    If you can afford the £60 it costs and you have solid back up evidence take it to the small claims court. This can all be done online by filling in two forms. What often happens with chaotic small firms is they ignore all the letters ,do not defend the claim and judge automatically finds in your favour. If they do not pay court sends bailiffs in and usually you get your money back and all costs. But it sounds like you will win your claim whatever .
  37. 0 points
    happy day, start and first drive (only few meters), Austin K2Y Ambulance live!
  38. 0 points
    Hi folks, new member here with a new project and a first for me, a 1945 Willys, purchased from AMD 4WD it is going to need work hence joining for knowledge and know how, i will be helped by my father in law who is old school some 60 years on the spanners and bodywork, like many since a child i loved the iconic ww2 jeeps and finally now get to own one which i am sure will bring both pleasure and pain, already named it "Little Pud" after our grandaughter, The jeep was imported from Iowa and i am in the process of completing the v55, a few pics attached will show its current state Steve
  39. 0 points
    We have had a great deal of thought about the back wheels. When we put them into the wheel store about 20 years ago they were in pretty bad condition. The damp has certainly not improved their condition.
  40. 0 points
    Welcome to the group. If you are in need of parts in the uk. lots of NOS around but Joe's Motor Pool makes real good quality parts. https://www.joesmotorpool.com/ information https://forums.g503.com/ Team G503 on youtube has excellent videos. He is partnered with US supplier RFJP. If you dont mind sharing your serial number, DOD etc. Jason
  41. 0 points
    A busy Bulgarian repair shop. The whole photo, plus some interesting parts magnified: /well, the main photo appeared at the bottom/
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    Yep, brake spring pliers Richard as 11th Armoured confirms. I bought these probably more than 35 years ago they are US military issue. Makes a difficult job both easy and safe for removing and/or replacing the brake return spring. This set has a flue machined into the bottom of one handle so that you can leaver the hook of the spring out of the hole in the hanger during removal. Pete
  44. 0 points
    OK, coating is ordered, after much deliberation we decided on the Caswell stuff (on their webpage they sell a coating remover for amongs others, "failed POR 15 coatings"!!), time will tell. Ron has got the fiddly twist grip stuff under control, but was a bit of a mixup of used and repro parts, so not easy. Cheers, Lex
  45. 0 points
    In the days before the internet, sometimes, as we restored something, a bit of licence had to be used. I was more than fortunate to obtain a WW1 spade dated 1917 and stamped ALBION, I had no idea that they made spades as well as vehicles, at an Aussie Disposals shop in Bairnsdale. The shop owner actually put it aside for me knowing that I has my Albion.(I also picked up one dated 1944 stamped BEDFORD for a mates Bedford QL there as well.) I had no idea of the fittings and as I was in a bit of a hurry to get the vehicle ready for the Television Series, "The Anzacs" made here in Victoria Australia, I had to guess the best way to attach the tools to the side. Later, via the internet and after a visit to the Albion Archives in Biggar Scotland, I realize that one day I will have get around to manufacturing the original style brackets. Attached is a photo I copied in Biggar in 2009 showing the correct placements and some photos of the fantastic apprentice made model they also have on display at the archives. (There is also another model, the same, in the Australian War Memorial in Canberra which was presented to to AWM at the opening in 1941.) My tool fittings pass with a push with the uninitiated as all the tools are WWI and are shown here. Regards Rick.
  46. 0 points
    Front bonnet support. More treasure from the tea chest: most of the original bonnet support one original bracket with a rusty piece of the same angle iron riveted on. Also present, a reproduction angle iron bonnet support welded to two 1/4" thick brackets. After a little study it was clear that neither the new support nor the brackets were the same shape as the old original. This is one of those situations where attitudes to restoration have changed since the 1970s - I looked at the rusty remains and concluded that they could be repaired. One side complete enabling measurements to be taken. New metal cut and welded into position. Just the rivet holes to drill. Original and pair of new laser cut brackets for comparison. In top coat. Bolted to timber support to aid handling while painting.
  47. 0 points
    Sorry I can’t help you in your quest Simon, but what you post is always interesting. The resolution on this is amazing, so I just wanted to say thank you. Steve.
  48. 0 points
    More rusty tea-chest treasure: full set of bonnet catches. A little bit of heat freed everything off. Springs past their best. Replacements sourced from Flexo Springs at Kingswood. Four new shoulder bolts required. Brass nuts reused. Painting... in my kitchen in Bristol One more job off the list.
  49. 0 points
    New Article on what are Tank Data Plates https://militarydataplates.com/what-are-tank-data-plates/
  50. 0 points
    The driveshaft cover from the gearbox to the steering box. It can't be an exact replica of the original, because the end of gearbox protrudes into the crew compartment in my version. Eventually the dummy gearbox will cover the remainder of the driveshaft. The storage plan for a panzer ll shows a fire extinguisher attached to the driveshaft cover, personally I think that is an excellent idea, especially as I will be driving the tank and the thought of a fire concerns me. It would be nice to get an original appliance but I would rather have one that works. I have made the bracket to suit a modern vehicle extinguisher and will tart it up to look the part later. I spent a couple of hours tarting up the fire extinguisher, it would never pass as a genuine item but I think it looks quite convincing.
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