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  1. 2 points
    Jon, Simply amazing. You are talented beyond belief! I have been following you since you were just building the turret, and when you started on this endeavor after the volume of encouragement to do so, I couldn't have been more excited. You are getting so close, and you have to be applauded for your commitment to staying as close to authentic as possible. I can't wait to see the hull mated with the turret, and even better, one day moving along on it's very own set of tracks. Keep it up brother...you're truly an inspiration! -Tom
  2. 1 point
    your hood number will be 20704655 built April 1945 under contract w-33-019-1885 chassis range from mb431301 to mb438041
  3. 1 point
    Snowy from Tin Tin? I,ll get my coat
  4. 1 point
    As an inservice weapon It is presumably still clasified as a Restricted Document so excempt from the FOI Act.
  5. 1 point
    If no-one on here has one it's worth trying a Freedom of Information request to the MOD. Andy
  6. 1 point
    The rear window recess I did took ages and lots of bad language! It looked really great when complete and with paint on it. The problem came when we fitted the rear window in its new channel, it sat proud by a good few mm at the bottom corners. Because there was very little pattern left I based the bottom corners on the top ones, the shape was right but it didnt take into account a slight camber on the actual metalwork on the back of the cab!! It was too late to do anything the the painted metal so we ended up very very carefully using a file to take some rubber off the window channel, in the end we did enough to make it fit and it does look right. I totally understand frustrations in this sort of situation and think all the more when you see results like you are getting.
  7. 1 point
    Thanks Tapper, it feels very close and yet there are still several major hurdles to negotiate but that's all part of the challenge. Time for an update me thinks. I have finished the engine cover although I have cheated and used 1.6mm steel sheet for the covers to save weight. Around the opening of this cover there is a radiused section, best shown in this picture. Also there is a 15mm gap right around the covers, too big a gap to be just clearance. I had assumed that it was a rain water channel but the more I studied the pictures I realised that the reason for the large gap and the radiused section was to allow air into the engine bay around the sides of the covers but I assume, not allow splinters to enter. On the original tank the two covers were not locked together, the lower over had no locking mechanism being held in place by it's own weight and the top cover having a locking mechanism. In my tank the covers lock together, as the lower door is not heavy enough stay in place on it's own. The radio operators escape hatch mow has it's latch and handle. Next to the radio operators chair there is a wall which is part of the engine bay bulkhead which for some reason is cut across at about 45 degrees Most probably to give access to the engine bay from inside the tank. Most of the pictures that I can find show this as being a bolted in section apart from one that shows it as having a hinged access door. I decided that as my ignition coil and amplifier are situated in this area a hinged cover would be a very good idea. When I made the radiator hinged cover, I made it as a two piece assembly. Once the hull top was in place it became obvious that it wouldn't close and should have been made in three sections. The only thing that then concerned me, was would it block the radio operators escape hatch. Once I had altered it, it became obvious that it tucks away nicely out of the way. The radio aerial on the panzer 2 is raised from inside the tank using this device. The handle is rotated up to raise that aerial and rotated down to lower it. The end of the handle is sprung so that when it is in the raised position it locks it's self in position, to lower the aerial you pull the end of the handle out and rotate it down. The unit to the right of the main unit contained a rotary coupling for the cable from the aerial to the radio apparatus. The shaft going between the rotating unit and the aerial outside the tank would have been in two parts and insulated so that the operator didn't get a shock when he touch the handle. In mine the shaft is in one piece. The radio mast was attached to the shaft via a coupling. This is the one on the Panzer ii in Bovington. And mine. When the mast is in the down position, it lays in a wooded tray that is bolted to the track guard. Sorry that it was such a long update, I get carried away or as my darling wife says, I should be carried away. Jon
  8. 1 point
    Thats a neat piece of metalwork, from experience getting the shape/contour of window or screen recesses is quite tricky. I had to fabricate a complete rear screen recess on one of our lorries, it took a lot of patience and in the end a few attempts!
  9. 1 point
    Barry, my Modified stoves all have that burner
  10. 1 point
    Now youโ€™ve practised on your own body you can sort mine out Duncan!!!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ‘
  11. 1 point
    Thank you Pete, I find researching stuff like this fascinating, especially when its family or vehicle related!! Kevin.
  12. 1 point
    Cracking bit of work there, especially the home made bending jig. As you say never throw anything out, it might be useful later. Not trying to pick holes, here, but a sensible question. Did you attempt to treat the rust on the inside of this panel? And if so, how?
  13. 1 point
    From what I have been told the lorry and itโ€™s contents have been found, Apparently in a layby and no damage to the cargo. Police are there and hopefully they may catch the scum who did this. But, Iโ€™ve taken it as a wake up call for the security of my stuff!
  14. 1 point
    Lovely work there Pete. As they say "It's a bit like eating an Elephant, one small mouthful at a time". ๐Ÿ˜ฆ That windscreen surround & scuttle will be a test. Watching with great interest regards Pete from OZ
  15. 1 point
    Sorry these have taken so long but it's only recently while extracting some hay making equipment that I've had a chance to get anywhere near our old Karrier (or remains of). I seem to remember there was a query about the prop tube, anyway our chassis still has it fitted, hope pictures are helpful/of interest. Keep up the great work! Regards. Ed.
  16. 1 point
    Is it one of these types you're after?
  17. 1 point
    Can you clean up those casting marks as one appears to be the letters JAC. If so it is a foundry name. I have JAC marks on some Thornycroft parts and have found the initals on other castings of the time. Doug
  18. 1 point
    My gut feel is that the open spoke wheel is the earliest, then the very closed wheel then the two round hole wheels. My reason is that the brake ventilation holes get steadily larger which I think would be the natural evolution. The closing of the open spokes and then somewhat opening them up again could be for casting quality reasons. I wonder how many people will notice that you have odd rear wheels when the bus is being displayed ! David
  19. 1 point
    The Clansman PRC344 is a 2W UHF AM transceiver intended for FAC use. As such, there is nowhere within its range that it is legal to transmit. In fact, of all the Clansman equipment, this is the one where transmitting can at best get you into legal trouble, at worst endanger aircraft and lives. But you say, I would NEVER transmit! Well, maybe not deliberately, but who hasnt turned a switch the wrong way accidentally? How easy is it to catch the pressel on a handset? And what about inquisitive fingers from the public at a display when your backs turned? There are no 'power on' lights on this to show your not just playing with a switched off set! It is very easy to ensure you stay legal with the 344, regardless of whether you have a handset, headset, remote radio attached, or select BEACON mode, you simply need to disable the transmitter. So, how do we do this? Surely it needs a technician? Well, no. The PRC344 is a modular system, and provided you take care, this is a very easy fix. We just need to remove a pair of numbered plug-in modules! First, remove the battery! On the larger side cover (not the switch side), remove the 14 hex bolts and lift off the cover. On the plate with the switches underneath, you will see a U shaped section of thick stainless steel wire, clipped over a screw in the middle and with its ends going into two holes. Lift this up with a screwdriver near the screw, and it will come off - this is the module removal tool! Now, locate module 3 (all modules are numbered on their tops), you will see it has holes in the corners. Insert the ends of the tool in these holes, and gently pull. The module will come out. Check it says Amplifier Direct Current on the side (to make sure you havent pulled out the wrong one!), and put it away somewhere safe (so you can put it back if you sell the set). Then, locate module 8, and extract that. Check its says Regulator Audio Level on it to ensure its the right one. Put that in the same safe place as module 3. Replace the extractor tool, making sure it is securely clipped down (if it comes loose inside it will cause big problems!), and refit the lid, making sure to put it back on the way around you removed it, as there are foam pads attached that hold the modules down. This should be easy, as there is a long dessicant canister attached in one corner, and a diagonal cut in another, that matches the diagonal on the body. Tighten up the bolts. Your set will now work just as before, only it will not transmit. Module 3 is the Direct Current Amplifier. It is responsible for providing the control voltages that activate the transmit amplifiers, and switch the antenna relay. It also provides the sidetone on transmit (audio feedback to the headgear). Inside it, there is a logic control gate, which will only activate if it gets a Phase Lock signal from the synthesiser, indicating that the frequency is stable. By removing module 3, there is no logic control, so no control signals to the rest of the transmitter. With only module 3 removed, switching to beacon mode will still activate the Tx RF Oscillator and Driver circuits (these are hard wired into the set). As a result, there will be a slight leakage of RF energy. This is very low level, but may be detectable ( I can detect the emission from my set on a commercial scanner many tens of meters away!) so in order to be absolutely safe, removing module 8 disables the beacon oscillator and Tx microphone audio stages. And after this, you still have an original condition radio, that will still receive properly. It will still look just as good at a display or show, but now you dont have to worry about accidentally calling in an air strike! Martin G7MRV
  20. 1 point
    From the Wikipedia page: Andy
  21. 1 point
    Yep, really nice and, as Ferg and Terry said, good to see one in post-war British colours. 10 68
  22. 1 point
    Well done , looks great and as already said itโ€™s great to see a differently painted and marked jeep ๐Ÿ‘
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Nice! Such a refreshing change from all those Screaming Eagles wannabees!
  25. 1 point
    From some pictures seen on this forum; I made a 3D model of the Dodge light repair truck.
  26. 1 point
    Its not taking any hurt in the shed.
  27. 0 points
    There are a fair few that are 50 years old. In 1955 the student union I would later join took on a 40 year old fire engine. When I joined it was 70 years old and the transit vans were fairly new. Now the fire engine is 100 years old and those union minibuses would be getting on for 40 years old (if they still existed) Time just keeps happening. (numbers for illustration only, some rounding has taken place)
  28. 0 points
    You could be right, maybe worth thinking about in the future. Evening All, I want to get all the tools, boxes, etc that are attached to the track guards in place before I remove the upper hull, all of the tools are held in place by these clips, An original My version I had thought that they would all be the same and I would just have to make 8 identical clips but in true German fashion, nothings that simple. There are 7 different variations to make, some just bigger or small but others totally different so each one takes a bit of experimentation. They were all lined with felt or similar, so that has to taken into account and that will be riveted in place after they have had a coat of under coat. That's all for now Jon
  29. 0 points
    A quote [ a man who never makes any failures never makes any successes either ] very true
  30. 0 points
    Back to the Government disposals of 1919 this advertisement that appeared in 'Surplus' for June 1919 predates Slough involvement when it was still a free for all regarding the sale of motor transport. The magazine 'Surplus' was an official weekly government publication which ran into the early 1920s. What was on offer and the quantities are truly amazing from kitchen utensils to floating docks , railway locomotives to aerodromes and complete factories with township included .Some incorrect spelling in this one, Garrick should read Garrett and Rushton being Ruston ,all smaller steam tractors. (The Rushton ic engine tractor by AEC did not appear until 1928 ) . Richard Peskett.
  31. 0 points
    The fixing of the seat was another black mark on the overdue task list, which I was keen to finish off. Armed with the necessary fixings I first marked and drilled the holes for the rear struts. This went well and all that remained was to drill through the holes in the struts to attach them to the rear of the seat. Unfortunately, the mighty Bosch was too long to fit in the gap and I had to abandon project until a smaller battery drill could be borrowed from Stan. This setback gave me the opportunity to paint the interior with Service Colour, which was much easier with the seat on its back. I returned next day armed with Stan's drill and a very useful clamp which immediately proved it's worth by holding the strut tight against the wood. It was then a simple matter of drilling the holes and applying coach bolts. Once tightened up all round, the seat was secured in the original manner. Whether this would meet modern standards is open to question.
  32. 0 points
    Forum members seem quite interested in this information and photos, and you like a lot of detail and background so I will take more time and add more information, I don't mind doing it if the interest is there. I will start a new thread and load them slowly unless anyone objects. This Chevrolet pick up (6 cylinder) was used by several members of the RE unit including my friend, loaded with fuel, food, water, weapons and several spare tyres on a 700 km drive to escape to Haifa during the Iraq rebellion 2nd May 1941.
  33. 0 points
    I hate to say it as I am not on Facebook and don't agree with this forum being used as a portal to it. There is a private group on Facebook with all the info you need. I know as my EB was photographed and measured, including the crane hook adaptor and my set of manuals (user and parts for Mk1 and MK2) to be available for the group. Something I regret to some extent. I don't have a copy of the manual scans for you but if you join the group you will get all the help. As an alternative as would you believe it not everyone is on Facebook, you can get the manuals (copies) from Green Machine Surplus. Iain
  34. 0 points
    I have a very nice (almost mint) MT350 motorcycle that is complete with toolbox, gunbox and panniers and in original condition. Its 1994, 3 previous owners, 17,800 miles recorded and MoT to December 2020 (no advisories). It also comes with a spare brand new fork assembly that alone retails for ยฃ600-800. The picture shows it with a non-standard top box that has been removed. Nice registration ending "TNT"!! I am looking for ยฃ2750 but intending to re-invest in a Lightweight Land Rover or similar, so am interested in a PX. A straight sale is fine too.
  35. 0 points
    here is one for 11th Armoured Division, showing what units made up the Division.
  36. 0 points
    All done. The side tabs are where the bracket was soldered to the bottom radiator tank but as all of these had vibrated apart from the tank I thought there is no point in rejoining them as original. I will glue some rubber inside them instead. Attached Thumbnails
  37. 0 points
    I'm guessing that 'EFC' on both sign and boxes stands for 'Expeditionary Force Canteen' and the fleet of J type Thornycrofts are at the loading bay of the wholesale dept. No markings are visible on the lorries unfortunately.
  38. 0 points
    The have been various militarised Minxes on the scene over the years - some here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/richard64pics/albums/72157691647093532
  39. 0 points
    Any one who has seen the Tanker thread lately will have read the bit about visiting the other woman for diesel distribution, and as I said there, haven't been near the old girl for ages what with the restrictions etc and concentrating on the Tankers restoration. Feeling guilty about neglect and so on, thought I'd best give her a bit of love too. So spent a day giving her a once over, oil, water, tyre pressures etc, and planned a run out for the not too distant future. A good many months ago now, had a discussion with the Guv' nor at work about moving a container office in the bus yard where the Tanker is kept Wants to be moved along the concrete slab up towards the fence. Rather than pay some one to come in and do it, suggestion was it could be done with the Militant. Just put the winch rope through the fence and pull. So, plan was hatched. Good run out for the truck it's about 50 miles each way, shift the container, thereby earning a few brownie points, and use the bus washing kit while we are there. Nice early start yesterday, and stop for a breakfast bite on the way Took a few shunts to get in the right place for a straight pull Hook a couple of chains and the winch rope on, engage gear and pull Job done. No effort at all, truck didn't even notice there was a weight hooked on the winch rope, despite the container being stuffed to the gunnels with all sorts of kit. Finished off with a good shampoo and pressure wash. She looks much better for it too, but I think she could do with a respray at some point. The red is fading badly with living out side all the time, and there is a few places where a bit of rust is bubbling up. Perhaps it's just as well having no shows this year, we wouldn't have looked our best. It'll have to be done before next years show season.
  40. 0 points
    ...and some 15cwts
  41. 0 points
    I also see an Instruction book for a WOT1 on Ebay, Item number 353105280796.
  42. 0 points
    Here's the Wesco folding oil can, early ones were silver. When enough interest, I will have the transfers printed again. Cheers, Lex
  43. 0 points
    I remember Neil asking me if I recognised what it was from when I was there some years ago and as there were a handful of bridgelayers sent out during the war, I guessed it was a spare. You struck lucky there.!
  44. 0 points
    We are still mainly concentrating on other (long neglected building) projects but really enjoying getting back into this one after so long. I have glued each additional layer of MDF onto the CNC cut templates and used the router to trim them with a slight offset to give 2 degrees of draft angle. Each is currently at 4 layers of 12mm and the final depth needs to be 4" so I need to add some thin ply or similar to the backs to finish them off. There are still a few more parts to print before moving on to the core box. The outlet is on the side of the radiator so a tight bend is needed. Three of the four parts of the pattern have been printed, rubbed down and primed; the other half of the core box is currently printing.
  45. 0 points
    I did take some when the car was in the garage but they came out too dark. I will push her outside and take some better ones.
  46. 0 points
    A little progress over the week end. There was a hole in the cast aluminium sump where the engine had obviously been stored against something metallic that had reacted with the aluminium. I had been pondering on how to fix this and was coming to the conclusion that patching it would be safest. However, I had some Lumiweld sticks around so decided to give it a try. I used a propane blow lamp and played it on the sump for a very long time before it was up to temperature for the repair. It is quite difficult to get the Lumiweld to wet the surface of the aluminium but persistence and lots of scratching the surface through the molten Lumiweld, using the stainless steel wire supplied, managed to do it.
  47. 0 points
    The photo below is from a website devoted to the RAF units that were landed on Omaha beach under heavy fire. As you can see, these Crossley prime movers have the same type of trailer as the one in the photo posted previously disembarking from the US landing ship. Go to this website; http://www.therafatomahabeach.com/?page_id=2847 and click on the link saying 'The D-Day story that never made the headlines' Very interesting stories from some of those involved.
  48. 0 points
    May 2020, Chassis in primer. We had the chassis sandblasted and painted around five months ago now, the sandblaster's did do a nice job, but there were a few paint runs in it that we needed to get out, so we did this and decided for extra protection to red oxide. We started off with a brush around the many rivets and hard to get to places, and then used a foam roller which gave a nice finish, when we do the top coat we will use a spray gun.
  49. 0 points
    i have 2 NOS filters for my trailer as originals are missing. think they are simple multi stacked layers of brass discs which you remove, clean and re stack.
  50. 0 points
    That's what we need for the back set up for are early warning Morris. Never thought that there was a complete early warning around !
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