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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/30/2020 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Evening, I thought that before I get too excited and cast all ten, I had better see if they fitted first. They still need fettling but I am pleased with them. Jon
  2. 1 point
    If you give him too much praise he’ll never get his head in the cab to drive it 😉
  3. 1 point
    From approximately 1940 onwards the RAOC census numbers were applied in the factory where the vehicle was built, and each factory had its own unique “style”. Royal Enfield used waterslide transfers, in a font that was only used by them. As I’m rebuilding a 1942 WD/CO myself, and as I have seen many restored WD Royal Enfields with “wrong style” census numbers (and I have to admit that I’m a bit of a Rivet Counter… 😃 ), I have decided to take some action… so I made a DXF drawing of the correct font as used by Royal Enfield. (I do have an original tank that I used to measure most of the numbers, the other numbers were created on the basis of some high resolution contemporary photographs). I have been looking at having a batch of waterslide transfers made, but this isn’t cost effective. I would need to order these transfers in quantities that I will never be able to sell… Hence my idea to use low tack stencils, with the correct font. Tony Pearson at Axholmesigns has been very helpful, and Axholmesigns can now provide low tack stencils with any Royal Enfield census number in the correct font! (https://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/motor-bike) You can download a PDF file with fitting instructions through their website, so no more excuses for not using the correct font on a Royal Enfield petrol tank! 😃Anybody who’s unsure about the correct census number for his WD/CO or WD/RE can of course send me a PM... (Note: same font on the RAOC WD/C. Most WD/Cs were RASC though, and they used different styles...)REgards, Jan
  4. 1 point
    Dear All, I was tempted to sanctimoniously boast that I did not have an adjustable spanner in my main workshop. I might have one in the Landrover's tool box. I do have one on the shadow board at home in the garage. I have to confess to using it yesterday but, in my defence, it was to hold the fuel rail still on the Meteor M120 engine AND it was 20mm square section. I hope that I can be forgiven! John
  5. 1 point
    Don't you need to go to work or shopping? 🙂 Andy
  6. 0 points
    Torque Tube. I went round and removed all the split pins from the torque tube retaining bolts, loosened and removed all bar one of the bolts from the flange where this part is fixed to the back axle. With the aid of a second pair of hands, the last bolt was removed and the torque tube lowered down onto a pallet. Torque tube removed Spherical head. Note the hole drilled through and its orientation relative to the oil bung. With the bung vertical, the drilled hole lines up with the oiler fitting to the left of the greaser. Flange end of the torque tube. Note the rust scour in the tube ant the chisel cut across the flange, which marks the top. So there's another mystery solved. Final drive input shaft and bearing. and with the muff coupling. Final drive all turns freely, though there is a little bit of room on the splines of the input shaft and coupling. Bolts from the flange joint. So this weekend's tasks were broadly as follows: Knocking out a new gasket A fragment of original black paint. (the green is preservation era paint) Sanded down, paraffin washed and drying in the sunshine. Phosphate conversion coating on the rusty bits and two coats of read oxide primer all over. Prop shaft with cleaned and reassembled Hooke's joint. Pins and bushes are case hardened steel and show hardly any wear. Nuts and bolts from the flange joint have been cleaned up and prepared for painting. Bolts have had a die-nut over the threads. Castle nuts were new in 1977 and are still as new now. Even the bolts are stamped with part numbers! From now on I am going to try and maintain some discipline. I will endeavour to post as follows: weekends will be up to date, midweek I'll try and fill in the gaps - play catch-up. If nothing else, in these unusual times, it will help people tell the days apart. Or get completely muddled up. Doc
  7. 0 points
    Hi Everybody, Finally some good news! production is happening as i type. So hopefully some tyres will be with us soon.
  8. 0 points
    Hey guys got some pictures of my Jeep just prior to being loaded for export to the UK, two for the album me thinks
  9. 0 points
    I have at last started on the Morris engine and have got further than I thought without breaking anything but the china on the plugs.
  10. 0 points
    King Pin Nuts now finished and screwing smoothly on to the King Pins. The worst job today was getting the remains of an old Split Pin out of one of the King Pins - but it gave in in the end!
  11. 0 points
    I too did a search for No. 19774 in the Leyland parts book #3, but unfortunately No.'s 19150 to 19999 are blank with the term "reserved" in the margin - a new project? The only thing that can be said is that the numbering either side of the missing series suggests these were parts designed in mid 1917. There are more numbers with descriptions missing scattered down the pages... including from 20015 to 20059 with the note "3Gl(?) Experimental Engine". It seems filing, or non-filing in our case, of consecutive numbers for a project was a tricky process before the age of computers.
  12. 0 points
    I reckon that my CNC lathe with a CBN tool could tickle them back in to shape it it was OK for them to become a little thinner. (And I am not allowed in to work for 3 weeks, and expect to run out of things to do)
  13. 0 points
    I take it the list you have has a cross reference between these unit parts plates allocated to individual vehicles and part numbers. Does that list extend out to chassis numbers with the numbers of the component unit parts used. That would be very handy in dating parts picked up ie gearboxes and axles. Doug
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    Thanks for the info, I will check the pump just to be on the safe side. Took advantage of the lovely weather today and removed the lower section of the cab, this section is actually lighter that the top, most properly because most of the bottom is missing, the tin worms have been hard at work !! Gave it a good going over with the pressure washer which revealed the full extent of the rust. More sheet steel will need to be ordered.
  16. 0 points
    From Tramway and Railway World January 1923, this Thornycroft J found its way from France to Spain, rebuilt and then fitted with a British built bus bodied shipped to Spain in k.d. form....ummm. Richard Peskett.
  17. 0 points
    As Clive said, the queens crown has a dip in the middle, the kings does not. You only have to look at cap badges pre and post Coronation (1952). See attached...
  18. 0 points
    On 22 September 1919, a deal was negotiated with the French Mission de l'Armament to be able to sell 750 lorries in France at 15% import tax instead of the normal 70% imposed by the French Government at the end of the war. Sales were held by 24 MT Vehicle Reception Park at Gennevilliers (formerly 1 Heavy Repair Shop) with the first one being on 27 November 1919. A total of 9 sales were held with the last one on 21 January 1920. 248 Thornycrofts were sold. 24 MT Vehicle Reception Park opened on 12 April 1919 when they took over all the vehicles held by 1 HRS, (which formally closed on 1 May 1919) and closed on 26 February 1920. Other makes sold through the sales included Swiss Bernas, Hallfords, Albions, Pagefield, Commers, Leylands, Halleys, Dennis, Wolseley but Thornycroft were by far the highest number.
  19. 0 points
    Thanks for posting. It sure keeps us Quarantined people entertained. Not that your prior resto's didn't. I thoroughly enjoy and applaud your efforts.
  20. 0 points
    Prepared the bits to make the two new Clevis Pins and also threaded a length of 2" A/F hex bar to make two new King Pin Nuts. The King Pin Nuts will be made back to back - easier to hold that way and will then be separated when all machining completed
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    Hi Jon I like the idea of a 300tdi But not sure if the cable and rod brakes are up to it😂 had a good start today with the strip down, work has dried up since going on lockdown so making the most of it. door hinge pins took a bit of heat but eventually came out. unfortunately I don’t have a large workshop or barn but luckily most of the cab is a big meccano kit Last chance to play spot the chassis number, I have found another 4 point star and beginning of the original chassis number, I have made out 713***1
  23. 0 points
    And the results are in...…...It looks pretty good to my eye, a bit of fettling when it's cured but on the whole I am pleased with it. There was a bit of leakage due to a small gap between the base of the upright and the base in one area but now that the resin has filled the gap it won't happen again. You can see in this picture the line of the retaining bracket and that the resin has coated both sides. Jon
  24. 0 points
    Sorry the last post was out of sync. I shall endeavour to play catch-up over the coming days and weeks. So here's the off side back wheel being removed (October 2019). Chassis supported on rear spring hanger, bottle jack under the back axle housing to lift the wheel off the ground. Retaining nut and locking plate removed and wheel slid along the axle, exposing the brake shoes. On with a strap and the crane just taking the weight. Wheel swung free of the axle. Brakes and spring looking a bit sorry for themselves. As soon as this picture was taken a second axle stand was placed under the end of the axle.
  25. 0 points
    Thought I’d post up a picture of my Nubian fire tender. I believe now the oldest in existence! With only 3 or 4 surviving now. im sure I’ll be trying to pick your brains regarding the restoration and getting her back on the road.
  26. 0 points
    Hi Alex wow, Looks as good as a base refit, that white lower hull looks so nice sad it lasts as long as the first muddy boots scraping its sole over the back of the gear pedal🤦🏻‍♂️, did you have to sauce new handbrake belts or are they original, did it come with the nbc system under the rear lower bin *cough*armour door. Such a nice build Alex I’m excited for you to get her on the road, word of warning you need to do halt parades on these girls if you drop oil from a road wheel hub it’s a rebuild at worst best a top up, but I cannot stress final drive levels it has to be like a religion you seize a final drive hub best case you need a wrecker recovery worst case you spin doing 60mph or arch in the direction of the now still track, you will most likely be ok ish anything you in well.... yer you stop you check put back of hand on your hubs, I doubt you will do much long road runs but you get the point, you need comms and ear protection you probably know but so does anyone you take out.., 10 years of useless information has a use again 🎉
  27. 0 points
    Hi Kyle, You will like to see this video of the RAF Firefighting Museum, the Mk5's are seen in it. Some years ago when Steve Shirley started the collection at RAF Manston, I was involved with two fire engine restorations for him.
  28. 0 points
    The WOT6 in the link above is my one 👍🏿 I thought about fitting a 4D to my one and even managed to get hold of a proper Ford adaptor plate to put the 4D onto the WOT gearbox, but after a bit of number crunching I came to the conclusion that it wouldn’t rev high enough comfortably to get a decent road speed. From memory I worked out that to do 40mph it would have to be doing roughly 2800rpm, don’t quote me I fitted it 6 years ago now! Went with a 200tdi from a discovery in the end! I do have a machinery bodied one with a V8 in it still as well but haven’t got round to restoring it yet though.
  29. 0 points
    Great and thanks for getting back to me. To start, I make master patterns for a company called Resicast in Belgium. They produce 1/35th scale kits in resin, I am not into model engineering on large scales. They are not toys, but we have a reputation of producing scale models. At the moment we are doing a lot of WW1 equipment, through the good intentions of HMVF members I have been able to source a lot of info. I am currently working on the 15" howitzer, that is quite an undertaking as so little info exists. The current crisis has given me time to pursue my hobby, and as the wife says, no change for you then !!! Here is a photo of part of the assembled kit, we have to make allowances for parts to be cast, so thicknesses are often exaggerated. George.
  30. 0 points
    I managed to find an original Ford wot8 manual that covers the wot6 on eBay, just waiting for it to arrive but from what I’ve seen so far your definitely right, extra grease will need to be ordered👍
  31. 0 points
    http://www.vehiculesmilitaires.com/ this is a French HMVF use the translate button all kinds of stuff on the SUMB ,very useful
  32. 0 points
    Hi Seamus, Here is a photo of a WOT6 Machinery truck that I was involved in restoring for a friend some years ago. Should have a few more photos of during the strip down. I recall the chassis number was on the passenger side of the chassis, somewhere about in line with the rear of the cab. It was quite feint so do not use a sander. regards, Richard
  33. 0 points
    im new happy owner Austin K2y, very nice original condition, preparate restoration, look for Austin speedometer and instrument case
  34. 0 points
    Congratulations and welcome ... I saw the videos of your vehicle. Andrew is a good guy, sure they have done a great job on the vehicle , this looks good you are lucky to be able to drive it, my cvr (t) is still a project and there are many days left so he can move on his own ... Regards...
  35. 0 points
    HI Richard, thank you! Austin six cylinder is first my restoration, but I make before four cylinder, 8hp and 10hp, but six cylinder is very diferent….hope I make all good….
  36. 0 points
    Finished the float blocks off today although I may take a bit more out for the nut to sit in, next are the 4 brackets that hold the 28mm pipes to the blocks.
  37. 0 points
    That is interesting, thanks Tony. I guess the bigger diameter threads were UNS where they wanted to reduce the pitch (in spite of the diameter) to reduce the depth of the nut whilst keeping the load area high. It looks like that is what they done on the clevis pins. I always think it interesting to discover things like this, and re-think what must have been discussed in the drawing office, back in the day. Chees, Dave (S&F)
  38. 0 points
    We were lead into a sense of false security about threads when we started the Peerless - by that time we had already done three American trucks - two 1917 Autocars and the 1918 FWD -the threads in the Autocars were all UNC and the FWD was all UNF - so we naturally thought that the Peerless would be one of those two thread systems - in which case we would probably have all the required Taps and Dies for any thread that we would have to make for Peerless. Wrong! We could not identify any of the threads initially that we began to reveal on the Peerless and it was really through this Forum and helpful advice from others that the light dawned that they were UNS. Another thing - it seems very likely that our Peerless could have gone through Slough Estates before it was sold on and in which case, the odd British thread appears. Tony
  39. 0 points
    managed to collect the new front fenders the other weekend and get them fitted, all of a sudden she looks like a Diamond again. shame it all has to come off to be painted and fine tuned by same time nice to have it all back on for final fit real soon. day i collected the wings just chucked them on to get a feel for how they will fit. welding the front mounting brackets which fit to the top bumper plate. ready to start fitting to the truck. one side mounted with the tread plate and new head light and mount fitted. last saturday had the toys out and really happy with how the diamond is looking with it's face back on. did a few laps of the field and boy i can't wait to get her on the road!!!
  40. 0 points
    At this time of gloom something to brighten our day up as we have had the final event and tally up to this project we made just over £50,000 profit from the sale of the soldiers with the majority being bought by the descendants and home owners who have re erected on public space near their homes or at the homes of the war dead . The money has been divided up between the local charities and Trusts that financially supported the project at the beginning including our local branch of the Legion who get about £5k. One of event organisers for the soldiers contacted the IWM for the use of the image which was agreed and the end result I was presented with a framed copy for my efforts which I was deeply moved by . The photo was taken by the Australian Frank Hurley of Australian troops at Passchendaele who was also the photographer for the Shackleton polar expedition as a point of interest. I know several people on this forum made the journey last year to Mersea to see the soldiers in position and contacted me hence the reason for this final post to let you know the outcome.
  41. 0 points
    Absolutely correct. Add to that tool boxes on tractors and plant and still when you need a particular tool, it's not there. The wander about checking tool storage in different sheds storing gear can be gainful often finding the item you were looking for a few days ago.
  42. 0 points
    Evening All, A week of lock down done and I heard on the radio it could last for 13 weeks, so progress will slow right down but it will continue until the materials run out. I have finished the mould for the drive wheels, it's made on the same principle as the return roller mould but bigger. I am worried that because of the amount of polyurethane required, about 6.5 litres, it will have problems filling from a single pour and although I am loth to use a double pour, I have constructed the mould with two pouring holes. Jon
  43. 0 points
    dad spent the day trying to free the stubborn Clevis Bolt. After spreading the end trying to get it out he eventually had to grind off the end to get it free. All the information still there to make copies.
  44. 0 points
    State of play so far !!!!!!! So after 3 years of doing nothing on the 1st Tilly due to ill health I have decided to made a start with some easy jobs. Engine / Gearbox & engine bay is finished but I never started & test run the 'new' engine.
  45. 0 points
    You could use a 1/4" slitting saw. Or an angle grinder mounted on a chop saw type of stand. to cut the flutes of the Flash Hider. Edges could be rounded with a Dremel of small hand file. & finished off smoothly.
  46. 0 points
    I'm not taking any chances, being an auto electrician I have self insulated. Joking aside I have come out of retirement to drive artics for a supermarket company. We are gradually getting back to normal as suppliers have in many cases ramped production up by 50% and we are working round the clock but there are still plenty of retards abusing the system by stockpiling perishable food which will have rotted long before it gets used.
  47. 0 points
    You do need to be careful. They say the over 70s are most vulnerable. My March 42 GPW has underlying health issues so she probably won’t be coming out this year.
  48. 0 points
    March 1st - Fuel and Oil Filter On March 1st, I refitted the oil filter. I'd done the whole job without draining the oil from the can, just taping up the inlet and outlet connections. Like on Jessie, the hardest part was to connect it all back together, supporting it with one hand, tightening bolts with the other, all without scratching the new decals! Once it was all back together again, the engine was given another test run to check for fuel and oil leaks and all seemed well, though I'll give them both another check on the drive once the weather warms up. March 7th - 12 volt and USB Power Supply Over Saturday 7th, I made a wooden box to mount the power supply unit into and to hide away all the wiring. I decided not to fasten the box into the glove box as I didn't want to drill any holes through the glove box floor. There was a small gap between the glovebox floor and the firewall, just big enough to pass a positive supply wire up into the glove box. The earth wire is attached to one of the glove box hinge bolts. The other end of the positive wire goes through an existing cable hole in the firewall and off to the battery isolator. There's a switch on the box to cut off power to the three outputs and when it is not needed, it can be pushed back into the glove box out of the way. The cigar socket can now be used for powering a satnav if required and there's a 1AH and 2.1AH USB output for phone charging or other USB accessories. It's nice to have the voltage indicator too.
  49. 0 points
    No seal fitted on these engines.
  50. 0 points
    1944 AEC Matador Artily Tractor for sale High speed diffs, good mechanicals, original body, Very good tyres. cab is good, but will need O/S rear cab pillar and timber above O/S wheel arch done soon. Its a nice vehicle. Located near Stroud Glos. Looking for around £15K Call Dan on 07711839269 to view
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