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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/20/2019 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Thanks for the heads up Nick, I've just booked in my Norton 16H & Ariel WNG
  2. 1 point
    On a decoy airfield:- The flare path was almost 1km long made up of lights spaced approx. 100m apart. To prevent friendly aircraft attempting to land on the non-existent runway, each end had a bar of hooded red lights, only visible at low level. There are links to some very interesting sites at the bottom of the page:- https://www.moors-valley.co.uk/learning/decoy-bunker/
  3. 1 point
    I agree it is a matter of proportion, but someone else may read the post and think it is OK to dump an IBC full down the drain. Great work on the trucks they will look factory fresh when you are finished.
  4. 1 point
    Images of war: Special forces vehicles: 1940 to the present day.
  5. 1 point
    Many Thanks to Richard Farrant for the many message exchanges and brain picking! List of parts 8 Slotted nut (incorrectly numbered in spares book - should be 48?) 47 Tab Washer 46 Washer 45 O ring 44 O ring 43 Output Drive Coupling 42 Oil Seal 40 Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder 39 Bearing 38 Bearing Inner Spacee 37 Bearing Outer Spacer 36 Inner Lock Ring Retaining Tab Washer 35 Spacer 34 Steering Hub inner slotted lock ring 33 Steering Disc Hub 32 Oil seal 22 Gearbox Steering Hub Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder 23 Bearing 24 Spacer 25 Spacer 26 Roller Bearing 27 Roller Bearing outer track retainer 13 Steering hub drive The O rings are BS 120 and BS 131 however I believe BS 131 should be BS 133 The Outer Oil Seal AS33726237VIT42 DOUBLE LIP - The British Spares book gives metric measurements for this seal that are nonsense, no seal can be matched to these measurements The Inner Oil Seal 117mm x 142mm x 12mm DOUBLE LIP All seals and O rings should be Viton and all Oil seals should be double lip. Do not waste time using Nitrile Seals. The British MOD are using PTFE seals, they are highly expensive and not needed for MV collector use (unless you intend going to war) The oil seals and O rings can be obtained from Barnwells Manchester. Special Tools needed:- Motorcycle suspension castle socket 6170 – This will need to have the internal castles ground back slightly Drive Shaft puller – it may be possible to adapt/modify a 3 leg puller Inner Lock Ring IMPACT socket – Special Tool! ¾” drive (contact me for info) to remove item 34 Possibly 1500Nm impact driver to remove item 34 Procedure to replace outer oil seal. Remove gearbox out of vehicle, drain all oil, leave the brake caliper in place. Knock back tab washer item 47 remove it. Using the 6170 castle socket remove the slotted lock ring, to prevent the Drive coupling moving insert a suitable drift into one of its three holes and let it rotate against the brake caliper. Fit puller and pull off drive shaft against centre shaft. The washer item 46 can be recovered when the coupling is removed. Remove the bearing retainer item 40 lever out oil seal item 42 (Note to remove the bearing retainer remove the 4 retaining screws, using 2 x ¼” unf bolts screw into the housing in the threaded holes provided. Recover the bolts after the housing is extracted) If there is a dust cover fitted to the bearing remove it, since it’s not needed and should not be fitted. At this point the outer seal can be replaced and if the inner seal is not to be replaced then reassembly can begin. If the inner seal is to be replaced go to Inner seal replacement. Examine the seal surface of the drive coupling, if it has a groove, as confirmed by a finger nail fit a speedy sleeve shaft repair (see Youtube), the shaft may have a polished ring where the seal has rubbed, this is fine as long as no groove can be felt with a thumb nail. Use Blue Hylomar to seal the bearing housing, use blue thread locker to lock the retainer holding screws and screw in using a sutable HAMMER impact wrench to tighten. Grease liberally the oil seal, grease liberally the drive shaft coupling, fit to the splined shaft and knock in using a soft drift, such as aluminium, brass or nylon. Fit the two O rings, on the inner (smaller) O ring use a smear of silicon gasket maker. Fit the washer, 46, smear grease on the lip where the outer O ring fits, smear grease on the outer face of the washer, tighten the slotted nut, and then remove it. Fit the lock tab and grease the outer face Refit the slotted nut and tighten – WARNING, if overtightened it may destroy the locking tab. Knock over two of the lock tabs into the slots in the slotted nut. Left Viton Seal, Centre Nitrile seal with gaiter spring, old nitrile seal with steel casing and spring fingers - maybe found in Belgian gearbox get rid ASAP Left to right: Drive shaft coupling extractor, drive shaft coupling lock ring retainer socket, lock ring tab washer, impact socket to remove inner slotted ring 3/4 drive. Bearing retainer and oil seal holder removed, clearly visible is the bearing, which still has it's dust cover fitted - should have been removed!
  6. 1 point
    I found a copy of Munitions of War, BSA and Daimler on-line at the University of Calgary Library. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a way to download the entire book, but could read it page-by-page. Thus I was able to copy about 30 pages of material on Thornycroft vehicles by copying one page at a time. This is not as tedious as it sounds and took me only about 15 minutes. http://contentdm.ucalgary.ca/digital/collection/cmh/id/106331 Bosun Al
  7. 1 point
    During our holiday we spent a day in Winchester looking through the Thornycroft records (the glamorous assistant is very good to me). I thought this table of valve settings might help a few people out so have included it here. Here is a general arrangement drawing of the T4 engine I need for this project (just in case somebody has one under their bench and does not know what it is). And another drawing showing the magneto cabling arrangements. The switch was mounted in the centre of the dash, just below the oil flow indicator (has anyone got a photo showing the detail of these?). There were also drawings of all the gaskets and various other minor parts but we did not find any drawings of the more major components (pistons, cylinders, crank, crankcase etc.)
  8. 1 point
    Going on the vehicle at the back, with a two tone colour scheme, it looks the same the two in the foreground. I was going to suggest Ford Model AA and that they may be hired in from a bus company.
  9. 1 point
    Like this '32 BB but with a different cab configuration
  10. 1 point
    The one at the front centre could possibly be an early thirties Ford, maybe a BB, the bigger version of this;
  11. 1 point
    Still planned for this year. https://rove.me/to/england/peasholm-park-naval-battles
  12. 0 points
    Looking for recommendations for a company (name, turn round time and an idea of cost would be useful) to reline an axle set of riveted brake linings 15 1/2" long, 1 3/4" wide by 1/4" thick or alternatively a source of just linings and I'll rivet them my self. thanks Pete
  13. 0 points
    Presumably about the same as charging a battery, maybe more on the higher settings ? We found the 24 volt input to be the most effective and did most of it on that with the amps on minimum ( 5 or 6 ) . Advantages over acid include faster progress, no damage to bright areas or brass bits and it does not smell like somethings died in there.
  14. 0 points
    Evening All This is the plate that I was referring to in my last post, having made and fitted the plate it answers a question. One thing that has always bothered me was, what would happen to all those bolt heads should an impact occur on the side of the tank, in the real tank world. One would have thought, that some would have sheared off and ricocheted around the inside of the tank, causing injury or death. Now that I have made this plate, I think that I understand. The plate, along with several others, are not bolted directly to the hull side but stand off by about 20mm, in other words there is a gap between the hull and the plate, if there is an impact and the heads are sheared off the plate would stop them from flying around. The plate should hold a first aid kit, that's the horizontal box, a tool kit, which I have yet to make, a spanner, feldflasche, and a magnetic lamp. I need help with the magnetic lamp, Item "a" in the first picture, I cant find any pictures of one so, HELP!!!! Jon
  15. 0 points
    Well done with the Radmore find! We have one on the Dennis and have been looking for one for the Thorny for years - but they seem to be as rare as Hens Teeth! Steve is now resolved in making a copy of one for the Thorny but one or two of our friends have said that if you are doing that, make one for me, too! Tony
  16. 0 points
    i have just seen a fantic chopper and a cabby in cheffins vintage auction on 19th of october look fab
  17. 0 points
    Scammell used on Operation Crown in Thailand 1966. Rickety old bridge built by the Japanese WW2. Cat D8H dozer would come off the trailer and cross the padi under its own steam. Arse going sixpence half a crown!
  18. 0 points
    Last of the steering joints on now, just the tracking to do 👍
  19. 0 points
    Yes, this tug has been saved and has gone to a new owner.
  20. 0 points
    Lovely looking restoration, I'm surprised its not sold at £6,500. good luck.
  21. 0 points
    I'm currently using Jobell Engineering to re-rubber FV430 wheels. This photo shows the two prototypes together with the wheel I gave them as a pattern. They're neoprene rather than rubber but have so far covered over 100 road miles without issue. Andy
  22. 0 points
    Some Flickr photos of Leyland Martians in Aden-
  23. 0 points
    Just a daft thought but could a set of brakes operating between the steering box and final drives work? It would give you a main brake and the pedal would not be a dummy. If that makes sense. Fantastic work Jon!
  24. 0 points
    The rotary wire brush on the hand drill removes most of the rust but a final soaking in the molasses solution should move the rest. These don't look too bad and should be OK to use again.
  25. 0 points
    Recently purchased MB DoD Feb 25 '43.
  26. 0 points
    Without the exhibitors there is no show, you don’t pay at Steam Rallies, so I’ll stick to them for now, until W+P change for the better.
  27. 0 points
    I too could see this ploy coming and after having been exhibiting vehicles at this event every year since it was the annual IMPS club show at Tenterden in the early Eighties, then moved to the Hop Farm ....... I am not bothering for 2020. Without exhibitors there is no show and further more, stalls are way down in numbers and very little vehicle parts related ones anymore.
  28. 0 points
    Here's a picture I have in my archive, not sure about the model?
  29. 0 points
    Found the end caps lurking in my deisel bucket where they had been consigned after dismantling. Months of this treatment had created a liquid version of the sludge and carbon which had built up on them, which although truly filthy, wiped off quite easily and just left some light rust to deal with. A coat of primer followed .......... .......by a fitting. To cut a long story short, I mixed up the caps and on final tightening one of the camshafts tightened up as well. As I had prematurely applied Heldtight jointing compound, this had to be removed, replaced and the whole exercise repeated with the end caps in their correct holes. I am delighted to report that both camshafts are now rotating smoothly. Various lessons have been learnt from this I hope ! We also have a working valve train, with all the cam followers bobbing up and down in a most satisfying manner. Having primed the inlet manifold, I then discovered the inside passages were quite fouled up with oily carbon deposits. This was quickly rectified by Stewart with the steam lance I had enough time left today, to apply some Service colour to the manifold, which is now looking very dapper, both inside and out.
  30. 0 points
    Bonjour Nicolas Très heureux d'entendre parler de vous et je suis sûr que nous serons en mesure de vous aider dans vos restaurations. La Dodge semble très complète et un candidat superbe pour la restauration. Je ne peux pas tout à fait faire sortir le GMC. Je me demande s'il s'agit d'un modèle 16AA ambulance qui a fait beaucoup de travail pour faire un camion civil utile. Quoi qu'il en soit, s'il vous plaît ajouter quelques photos dans la section pré-WW 2 et puis nous pouvons voir si nous pouvons réunir les experts pour leurs réponses. Les membres ici ont un Liberty B, FWD Model B, Nash Quad, Locomobile et GMC et je suis sûr que nous serons en mesure d'échanger des informations. Cordialement Tim Very happy to hear from you and I am sure we will be able to help you in your restorations. The Dodge looks very complete and a superb candidate for restoration. I can't quite make the GMC out. I wonder if this is a model 16AA ambulance that has done a lot of work to make a useful civilian truck. Anyway, please add some photos in the pre-WW 2 section and then we can see if we can bring the experts together for their answers. Members here have a Liberty B, FWD Model B, Nash Quad, Locomobile and GMC and I am sure we will be able to exchange information. Kind regards Tim
  31. 0 points
    Decided to look for Shackles and Shackle pins today with the idea of getting them ready for when the chassis is ready for erection. We have a whole lot of spares which came with the lorry when we bought it. - some are inaccessible at the moment and the condition must be checked with the best ones then put out for re-use. The easier ones to get out have been worked on today. I was hoping that we would not find any more strange threads but all but one of them are threaded 7/8" x 16 - yet another odd ball thread - not even a recognised UNS thread. One was still in an original bracket complete with its hook. This assembly came apart after some heat treatment and we find on this one shackle pin, the thread is 5/8" Whitworth! I am guessing that the end of this one must have been turned down at some time during its life and re-threaded differently for what ever reason - perhaps the fitter at that time did not have 7/8" x 16 Tap and Die either.
  32. 0 points
    just thought i would add the photos of the MWR on the recent 30 corps trip to Holland in here ,it was the first time i have managed to get a full crew of five in the truck with all there kit ,beds ,chairs ,a shower the roof rack worked a treat and we all slept under the penthouse which which rolled out from the right side of the roof rack .
  33. 0 points
    Hi have been doing a bit just got reverse gear back now to see if it works
  34. 0 points
    The second box followed while the first was set aside to dry. The last stencils were on the lids and the boxes were then complete. They were left to harden overnight and the contents packed the following morning. The three finished camping crates. I've got quite a selection of boxes and crates now. In addition to the new .30 and .50 Cal crates, I have two astrograph boxes, two wooden crates made when I first got the Jeep, a .30 Cal tin and a first aid tin.
  35. 0 points
    Got a bit more done all this curved timber is up Daves street coming from a boat building back ground , don`t think I could of done these on my own.Flipped the roof over to remove and salvage the steel brackets .Unfortunately the roof beam steel plates were past saving so I rolled some new ones (3 pairs ) the body isn`t square and had a 1" taper towards the rear from new so the difference is split along the length .We know this because the front bulkhead width and the rear bulk head steel frame are original giving us fixed points.
  36. 0 points
    We parked up the convoy against the trackside fence and stormed the cafe, which was taken without much resistance. It was nice to see both Jeeps out together, both looking a bit different to normal. We convoyed back to Andrews House and displayed there a while longer before packing up to head home. Driving home, two or three eyes at the front of the new canvas popped off the studs on the screen. I'm going to have to try and get the canvas pulled tighter, or see if it fits better on "Jessie". The Roof bows on "Hope" are slightly lopsided, which I discovered just recently. Where the pivot is for the front bow, the bracket had been welded onto the rear bow with about a quarter of an inch height difference compared to the other side. It must have been manufactured like this during the war as during the restoration, I only straightened the bends in the tubes. This may also be having an effect on getting the roof canvas tightened evenly. We just got onto the drive when the promised rain came, and it didn't half chuck it down! I got the Jeeps away as quickly as possible and sat down to begin processing several hundred photos! A full set of the event photos can be found here - http://www.sacarr.co.uk/mymvs/events/2019/tanfield_1940s.htm
  37. 0 points
    PS. Some people think that these engines are 'wet sump' like a car. It's not the case. They are 'Dry Sump' like all the rest. It's just that the oil tank is part of the crankcase. Ron
  38. 0 points
    In no way can this be described as a military vehicle...but it is a defensive structure so hope its of interest... I'm working on a project that is demanding a lot of testing of new techniques and methods, and the outcome of which is a level of accuracy and detail that has pushed some boundaries. Its all techie stuff so I won't bore the pants off everyone but basically it involves embedding GPS data into the image at time of capture. This will explain in part why the 8-cylinder torpedo engine has taken a back seat and gone quiet. Anyway, needing a subject to test on my thoughts turned to using the pillboxes that line the Basingstoke Canal as a reference and here you go: Type 24 Pillbox There are many examples tucked away in hedgerows fields around here, serving as a reminder of a battlefield that - thankfully - never was.
  39. 0 points
    I managed to get a slave lead socket today. I am looking for 3 plugs to fit. They are ruffly 1 ¼" by 1 1/8". I have found someone with one that I car copy but it would be nice to get an original. Peter.
  40. 0 points
    Evening All, I thought that I would make the drivers seat so that I could test the driving position before I finish things off with the steering /brake levers etc. I can't believe that anyone could clamber into the drivers seat if it had a fixed backrest, so I fished around and found several designs of Panzers drivers seat and came up with this. As the steering / brake linkage is my design the seat had to fit around it.
  41. 0 points
    Managed to prime a few parts, remove front bumper and get steering box ready for removal. Still a rolling chassis at the moment, hopefully a bare chassis soon!
  42. 0 points
    On September 18th, the Jeep was rolled out onto the drive in the new markings for the first time. They were completed just in time for the Tanfield Railway 1940's event this weekend.
  43. 0 points
    The large red cross neatly covered the hood star. While I was tinkering in the garage, I also did some olive touch ups on the hood where the headlight bolts press against the underside. To hide the "Flying Control" on the screen, I cut two more strips of plastic which were painted up with "Airbase Medical Unit". I didn't have enough left to make one long strip.
  44. 0 points
    Few pics of her unmasked. Well pleased with the job
  45. 0 points
    Hands up who wants to see a Tanker in Deep Bronze Green? Been a heck of a lot of work over the last couple of weekends, flatting off the primer and touching up the odd dink and chip that has occurred during fitting. Started early this morning with final DA-ing of the last bits Then dust off, wash off and tack rag all round. before masking up The patient is prepared Got to start somewhere, actually I started on the roof, but this was the most difficult bit, especially with the second coat, trying to spray one side without sticking to the other side. There was also a bit of laying down on the job too Have I missed anywhere? Nearside finished View from the top Offside looking very shiny. Paint is still quite wet at the time of the photo, but it was still shining after we had packed up. Appears to be drying nicely. Can't wait until tomorrow to unmask it and see how it looks once it is properly dried. Well pleased with the days efforts. Spare wheel carrier can go back on now, along with the tool bin that is currently underneath the thing. Start work on the tank after that
  46. 0 points
    Hi Ian Im going to rebuilt a Fantic TI 50cc and i saw ur post that u own 4 I need some help and maybe parts also if u have for sale.. The big problem i have is the front forks..still didnt understood how to rebuilt them(if they can be rebuilt) and one of the fork tube is stuck in the fork leg.. Thanks in advance for any help Regards Emilios
  47. 0 points
    amazing that this almost forgotten engine technology has been around for over a hundred years and never been developed. Think of the bhp potential from such a compact engine! Incredible to think something this advanced is built a a single use engine, made to last just a few seconds!
  48. 0 points
    A very interesting engine. I wonder who made it? I had some dealings with Commonwealth service torpedoes pre 1990, but have never seen an 8 cylinder engine like Simon's. If it was made in the UK, I would be reasonably certain that it was not produced in any quantity. Another angle is that it may have been an example of a continental engine (1900-45?) recovered for tech intel purposes? Re nyloc nuts, can you discount that someone has not had a go at restoring it more recently? The engine sold by Prestons is a 4 cylinder radial Brotherhood burner cycle engine that went into service in the 21 inch Mk.8 (submarine) and Mk.9 (surface launched) torpedoes. The Prestons one in particular looks like a WW2 produced type that would have been in service until the late 1980s. Recently I had the job of sectioning a whole Mk.8 torpedo for a museum and read the manual that came with it. Some interesting specs: (1). The fuel is listed as "shale oil".(2) It carries about 250 pounds of compressed air at 3000 psi (3) Due to this air pressure and volume, the throttling effect would tend to ice up everything (like how a spray can goes cold when you hold the nozzle down for a long time). (4) They get around this by admitting a small quantity of burning fuel to the air to heat it up before it reaches the engine. (5) The preheated air and cylinder injected fuel then operates as a diesel exhausting into the crankcase and out the propeller shaft. (6) The pre-burn is started by three blank cartridges that are fired on launch. (7) If the ignition fails, the torpedo can still do about 22 knots just on air pressure for a few hundred yards. When the navy tested the engines on a dynomometer, they would routinely produce about 550 horsepower. Not bad for a tiny radial engine designed in 1926. All that said, the salient point is that you need about 3000 psi air boost to get that performance, so not especially convenient for a motorbike, etc. My reference to tech intel is base on a discovery made in Sydney a couple of years ago. In the mangrove swamps near an ex-ordnance depot, a large complex bronze casting was pulled out of the mud. No one had any idea what it was, but it was kept due to being old and mysterious. It turns out to be a Whitehead designed long stroke 2 cylinder engine from a Japanese submarine torpedo. This was a 21 inch type, but the fabled "Long Lance" Type 93 24 inch torpedo used the same design. BTW, while torpedo engines may seem a bit niche, torpedo gyros have been keenly collected for many years. They are amazing bits of precision kit and span about 120 years - from clockwork, compressed air to electrical methods of spinning them up. The Mk.8 torpedo uses a quick blast of the 3000 psi air supply to bring the rotor from standstill to about 30,000 rpm in a fraction of a second.
  49. 0 points
  50. 0 points
    My Russian GAS 69 in restorian prodect
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