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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/08/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Thats a neat piece of metalwork, from experience getting the shape/contour of window or screen recesses is quite tricky. I had to fabricate a complete rear screen recess on one of our lorries, it took a lot of patience and in the end a few attempts!
  2. 0 points
    Standard Land Rover tool!! Don’t think I’ve seen a series Land Rover hub nut without a chisel mark.
  3. 0 points
    A quote [ a man who never makes any failures never makes any successes either ] very true
  4. 0 points
    I've always had good results from https://www.acorn-ind.co.uk/ and https://www.vintagebearings.co.uk/ If the leather is just a flat piece of leather contact these guys https://www.par-group.co.uk/ they cut out new leather seals for my Scammells back hub seals.
  5. 0 points
    Thank's yes it was certainly 'tricky' I used several other descriptors for it while doing the the job, if it had just been in the horizontal and vertical plane it would have been fairly straightforward however as the upward curve begins so the whole molding starts to lean back into the scuttle something like 15 to 20 degrees from the vertical following the pressing for the door post. The difficult bit was trying to form a series of bends and depressions two of which form 90' bends into three orientations while not introducing distortion, needless to say the first attempt ended in the scrap pile Pete
  6. 0 points
    Another old post but here is a civi Austin K2 on an RAF airfield just after D-Day to collect casualties of a Douglas Dakota. As my Dad remembers as an erk at RAF Broadwell and later RAF Down Ampney, it was all hands to the pump to remove the wounded from the aircraft on to ambulances as quickly as possible. Often the RAF personnel would give emergency aid in the shape of a Woodbine Cigarette, as smoking was good for you in 1944! Note civi registration and no large red crosses. As for the RAF use of Austin K2s on UK airfields I seem to remember that RAFM say this was from late 1945 and after VE-Day, so if you own an RAF Blue K2 then paint the front mudguards gloss black and it will look very smart in postwar colours as of April 1946.
  7. 0 points
    The tyres on the one dismounted wooden wheel are shot so Steve cut it back to the metal band and then used an angle grinder to cut through that. The tyre just pings off and we parked that for disposal and the wheel for the next step of restoration.
  8. 0 points
    Dad is always looking for things to do so Steve and I pulled the California rad out from the shed and looked it over. We knew it had been patched before so we had a look at that and the damage seemed worse than we remembered. We are undecided as to the best course of action so may swap over the top tank with the WD marked one that we have. The gills had taken a few knocks so we need to sort those out. We gave the rad a pressure wash and then parked that up for later on.
  9. 0 points
    We need to get the rear wheels sorted and the pair we want to use are on the other Peerless so we had to swap them over with the metal wheels we have in stock. First task was to move all the stuff which was stored on and around the Peerless and tow it out into the open to make room. These wheels are very heavy and we used the engine hoist to secure them. The first one came off really easily which surprised us all and the metal wheel went on without any problem. The other side was a different story and after most of the day gone we had to give up and put the Peerless away again and Steve will come back with his hydraulic press and see if he can adapt that with a Jim Crow and see if that will make any difference.
  10. 0 points
    The next task was the front axle, but the U Bolts we had (even the best set) we decided were too far gone to use so we have parked the axle for now and will get a set of bolts made.
  11. 0 points
    A bit more progress over the weekend. The Peerless is fighting back again so we didn’t get as far forwards as we would have liked. The first task was to put the back axle on, using the engine hoist to life it into position. Unfortunately it didn’t seem to fit and then we realised that there should be a mounting plate on top and rubber block underneath. Looking in the spare parts drawer Steve pulled out an axle with the remains of springs still attached. Taking an angle grinder to that he soon produced a very tired but serviceable pair which he now fitted to the axle. A few hours later on while rummaging in the spare parts box for something else Dad found a much better set which were cleaned up and fitted to the axle. This looks a lot better but we could not do the axle up tight as we required a deep socket which we did not have.
  12. 0 points
    Thanks Tapper, it feels very close and yet there are still several major hurdles to negotiate but that's all part of the challenge. Time for an update me thinks. I have finished the engine cover although I have cheated and used 1.6mm steel sheet for the covers to save weight. Around the opening of this cover there is a radiused section, best shown in this picture. Also there is a 15mm gap right around the covers, too big a gap to be just clearance. I had assumed that it was a rain water channel but the more I studied the pictures I realised that the reason for the large gap and the radiused section was to allow air into the engine bay around the sides of the covers but I assume, not allow splinters to enter. On the original tank the two covers were not locked together, the lower over had no locking mechanism being held in place by it's own weight and the top cover having a locking mechanism. In my tank the covers lock together, as the lower door is not heavy enough stay in place on it's own. The radio operators escape hatch mow has it's latch and handle. Next to the radio operators chair there is a wall which is part of the engine bay bulkhead which for some reason is cut across at about 45 degrees Most probably to give access to the engine bay from inside the tank. Most of the pictures that I can find show this as being a bolted in section apart from one that shows it as having a hinged access door. I decided that as my ignition coil and amplifier are situated in this area a hinged cover would be a very good idea. When I made the radiator hinged cover, I made it as a two piece assembly. Once the hull top was in place it became obvious that it wouldn't close and should have been made in three sections. The only thing that then concerned me, was would it block the radio operators escape hatch. Once I had altered it, it became obvious that it tucks away nicely out of the way. The radio aerial on the panzer 2 is raised from inside the tank using this device. The handle is rotated up to raise that aerial and rotated down to lower it. The end of the handle is sprung so that when it is in the raised position it locks it's self in position, to lower the aerial you pull the end of the handle out and rotate it down. The unit to the right of the main unit contained a rotary coupling for the cable from the aerial to the radio apparatus. The shaft going between the rotating unit and the aerial outside the tank would have been in two parts and insulated so that the operator didn't get a shock when he touch the handle. In mine the shaft is in one piece. The radio mast was attached to the shaft via a coupling. This is the one on the Panzer ii in Bovington. And mine. When the mast is in the down position, it lays in a wooded tray that is bolted to the track guard. Sorry that it was such a long update, I get carried away or as my darling wife says, I should be carried away. Jon
  13. 0 points
    Have you tried Oil Seal UK? From their website:- Where seals are not available from stock we can have them manufactured in the the following materials:- Metal cased leather Metal cased rubber Leather (flat or shaped) Rubber Felt Cork http://www.oilsealuk.co.uk/
  14. 0 points
    A bit of an update regarding work on the scuttle in the last set of photos I posted I'd started to repair the RH side screen recess after a couple of false starts it's now complete. originally the whole panel was stamped out in one hit probably hot and by a break press. As I don't have such luxuries I ended up making the repair patch out of 4 separate pieces welded together and then ground to shape. It looks a fairly simple repair however the indented pressing has to curve upwards and also lay back following the contour of the scuttle to get an idea how it all worked I made a pattern out of some very thin steel cut out of a biscuit tin it was thin enough, 0.8mm to let me to shape it easily but stiff enough the hold the form once made So this is how it looked when I started this section That's what is going on here Here is the first section in place, welds ground down and awaiting the addition of the curved section, the trial pattern is on the scuttle The finished 18 gauge section welded in and ground back, some lead work will finish this off after blast cleaning Next job is to tackle the the vent and drain............ some serious tea drinking needed here I think Pete
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