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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/03/2020 in all areas

  1. I phoned the W&P Office a few days ago, suprising someone answered, even more of a surprise it was Anne Bertrand the Co-Owner of W&P revival show, we spoke at length and found Her charming and very helpfull. we discussed the possible show cancellation situation and She told me they are waiting for Government decision that if social distance restrictions need to continue into/beyond July then they would Not be allowed to open the show, they are Insured against such eventualities, but cast doubt if they would get fully compensated, but Ann Assured me Everyone who has paid Will be Refunded anyway....I even spoke to John Allinson too, so rather than speculate, just pick up the phone and speak to the show owners yourself, ..not many events you can ever do that to. --------------------------- ......The very successfull Capel Military Vehicle Show nr. Dorking Surrey July 5/6th has been Postponed untill September........
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  2. Not done a jeep hinge but helped with a Austin hinge and it took lots of penetrating oil, lots of small opening and closing movements of the hinge to free up part of it and then we used heat and quenching with oil to release the other side of the hinge and then we tapped either end with a drift and hammer until it came out. Lots of fiddley taps and repetitive motions but it came out. The chaps fitted a stainless pin in its place. I wasn’t to sure about fitting a stainless hinge pin as I’ve heard stainless and mild steel can cause friction heat but I suppose it’s not a hinge that constantly in use.
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  3. I know the subject of cancellations has come up on the Dorset Steam Fair thread - I thought it best to start a new thread. Just browsing Milweb and was surprised to see a 'new' advert for the W&P show. I followed the link and the web page says they are monitoring the coronavirus situation. However they are (or appear to be as I didn't complete the process) still selling tickets. A quick check of their T&Cs states the following 10. TICKET RETURN, REFUND AND CANCELLATION POLICYThere are no refunds available on any orders. While I appreciate that this is a commercial event I do feel that to continue selling tickets with a zero refund policy is not playing fair. I do hope that no more people get stung at this stage......
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  4. I hope this is of interest, it’s an account of a steam wagon driver, driving something much like my own wagon. It is from “The Worlds Fair” of January 1916 JUST ONE DAY IN A WAGON IN FRANCE - by “Norman” ’There are eighty four steam wagons “parked” in one large yard, hence its name “Lurry Park”. You set off at 4.30am from your tent, which is a good mile from the above mentioned park, and on arriving you start a game of “hunt your slipper”, or I should say hunt your engine; for remember there are eighty four engines, all like yours and the majority of them have been parked after yours. Now, in your hunt you have to be very careful because if you happen to make a mistake and commence to climb on the wrong one, you are in danger of a clump in the ear from the driver, who (no doubt) thinks you are trying to pinch his firewood. After knocking all the skin off your knuckles cleaning the clinkers out, you light up and having seen your fire strong you set out for your breakfast. Talk about the song “back to the office I went” well, it’s not in it, I walk a mile to work, then a mile back for my breakfast, and a mile back to work again - well, it prevents indigestion. What a grand thing army life is! After breakfast is a performance that cannot be passed over in a few words - ah no! To get your breakfast you have to pass the cook house, and whilst doing so your nose is assailed by the beautiful odour of fried bacon - hurrah! You make a dash for the mess room where you find you can have your choice of jelly or ham, but the bacon -well the smell is your share; that is for the NCO’s, you have a slice of bread and jam and register a solemn oath that the next time you join the army again it will be as a sergeant or not at all! After breakfast you go back to your engine, oil round, get your sheet, and sort of “get set” for the day. By this time bells are ringing and horns are blowing as this or that impatient individual lets his neighbours know that he is ready and anxious to get to work. Now, if you are also ready you dash out of the yard “a la Donaldson” and nearly hit a corporal or two in your endevours to show How eager you are to get to work! If, on the other hand, she has steamed badly and you are in danger of being last (and so get a roasting from the Sargent) you shove her in slow gear and crawl out of the park as my Scottish friend has it “on tippy toes for fear of wakening the lazy French folk” ! After arriving at your job, which may be one of a hundred you have a look around to see if your engine is intact, and, finding everything ok you make yourself as snug as you can in your bunker and practice French on any of the French people who happen to be around until you are loaded. Dinner time comes as a happy interval, when you can have your choice of bully slice, bully stew, or bully. After dinner you return to the job you have been on in the morning and continue until you are signed off which means you can return to the lurry park on rare occasions, by day five o’clock. You make a dash for home, planning enroute, what you will do in the extra hours that have fallen to your lot. But you must not build too lightly on this, for as you go careering through the gate of the park you will perhaps hear the corporal yelling at you “right round 30 and you wheel your engine round and wish fervently that the corporal finds nothing in his stocking next Christmas! You are now handed another sheet in perusal of which you find you have to take a load of rations for some troops preceding up the line. After missing your tea and nearly breaking your wagon up in some atrocious holes you wander home, wondering meanwhile will this d———— war ever finish!
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  5. Good evening, I hope we find everyone well. Unfortunately work on the Foden has been non existent for the last month since where the Foden is currently kept has been on lockdown, however this has meant I can progress on work at home. I had a few excursions planned for 2020, with rallies in France, Guernsey, Devon, Cornwall and Dorset on the itinerary, however one by one all these events have been cancelled so we won’t be going far this year! However this does mean that the planned winter jobs can be brought forward. At the end of this season my 10 year boiler test is due, so I need to strip the wagon, I am going to remove the boiler from the chassis, as some bearings need attention, also the tubes need replacing (they were put in when the firebox was fitted 20 years ago, and they have done very well, however they will be replaced. Likewise I will change all studs, overhaul the fittings etc. If this is of interest then I will add photos as and when I get into the jobs. The other job I plan to do this year is to restore the cab. Unfortunately there is some rot and previously bit of steel plate have been fitted to keep the cab in shape, but I wish to replace the rotted bits and repair the rest, together with new canvas etc. I want to retain as much as possible of the original cab, so this could be an interesting “conservation” job. Keep well everyone! David
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  6. I bought some silicone sealant removed from Yorkshire trading. I wouldn’t say it was a wonder chemical but it did make it easier to remove. It appeared to lift the edges of thick parts and dissolved the smaller parts. I wouldn’t be surprised if there’s a better stronger version available.
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  7. Good advise. I made a flat topped cup out of a bit of scrap brass about an inch in diameter and 3/4 inch long with a hole a bit bigger than the electrode drilled into the back 2/3 of the way through and a piece of copper soldered onto the working face. The copper will totally prevent the weld sticking and does not deteriorate at all other than needing cleaning occasionally. I probably do more with this than without. It is surprising how many different shape and length electrodes become necessary too but they are quite expensive for what they are. Keep up the good work, David
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  8. The electrodes on the spot welder could do with a clean up, they should have a big shamfer and a small flat spot in the middle. If you need one side of the weld to be undimpled make a flat topped cup to drop over the electrode. Keep the pictures coming! spot weld.bmp
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  9. After 4 hrs of painting job done.
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  10. Bored? Not a chance, sick of doing wheel arches though. Thin sheet welding! Hate it. Still, finally got both of them done. Well, I've repaired all the holes. That's as far as I'm going at the moment. Heat distortion is soul destroying. The wheel arches are such big sheets, you can't stop it. Tried every trick in the book to keep it at bay, but even sanding the old paint off causes the metal to flex and bow, never mind grinding down welds, or actual welding. Plan is to refit them back on the truck, before doing anymore work, that way I can see when any distortion is occurring, and hopefully will be able to control it or straighten/shrink repair as I go. Move on to the next challenge. Knowing I was about to get furloughed I collected up plenty of parts to work on at home. Hose pod tubes. Eight altogether so 2 trips four at a time. Every now and again I regret selling my Toyota pick up. Still all sitting around home now, along with the 12 retaining straps so plenty to get on with. Straps first. one at a time in the electrolysis bucket, then scrub up and repaint Most required new threads welding on each end, 3/8" BSF, so cutting new threads for them kept me quiet for a while. Couple of them were beyond saving, so new strip measured and cut. Welding gas bottle comes in handy to get the right curve Doing the electrolysis in a 3 gallon bucket is great for things like the straps, but what about the actual tubes, they're 8 foot long. Need a bigger bucket! Right. Take a flat sheet of good steel As it goes I've got a few, having had a lucky break from Ebay a couple of years back. Initially bought 6 sheets of 1.2mm for the Tanker cab repairs, but got a whole load of thinner ones (0.9 & 0.7mm) thrown in, so plenty of spare. I've also got a sheet of 1mm stainless as well if anybody needs one. Must have left the 3 metre sheet folder in the fantasy barn, just couldn't find it, so had to improvise with some bits of wood and a big hammer. Couple of hours of banging and riveting later and we get this One 10ft long tank Raided the scrap bin to make a suitable anode that will do the inside of the tube as well as the outside. And set it all up behind the shed, ready to go I thought the steel tank would act as an anode as well as the one for the inside. Nice try, no cigar on that one. Battery charger trips straight out. So, spent half a morning bailing out all the water/soda mix into buckets, pots etc, didn't want to waste it. Fit plastic sheet as a liner and start again. Battery charger still trips out. Spent ages then, making sure the tube wasn't touching the anode, no wires crossed and so on, but still no luck. Finally, a bright idea! Or lucky guess. Turn the charger down to 6 volts. Result, it all works nicely. There's bound to be a formula somewhere for working out size of metal, amount of soda chrystals to use, etc but I'm not smart enough to understand that, so it's all a bit experimental, either it works or it don't. Good news is, it works! This is the view inside the first tube before cleaning. As you can see, or rather can't see, it's quite nasty. And here's the after! Seriously impressed with the result, here. Proper shiney. Photo doesn't really do justice to how clean it came out. It has had a once over with a wire brush, but I'd call that ready to paint. As for the wire brush, that is an interesting animal in it's own right. 6" wire wheel attached to a set of drain rods. Put the other end in an electric drill and away you go. Rods are very bendy wobbly so the brush bounces about all over the place, and you have to tie the tube down securely or that does the same. Holding on to the drill with both hands is also a good idea. Don't half do a good job shining up the inside. Looking for any advice or ideas here. Now I've got the means of cleaning the rust off the inside, how do I get a decent coating of fresh paint up to the far end? A brush on a long stick probably isn't going to do it very well. Spraying would be better, but a standard spray gun wont reach that far. Any body got any experience of this sort of situation. As for the rest of it, the electrolysis is very good at exposing the naughty bits Main corrosion is underneath the strap positions. Moisture has been trapped here and just rotted through. More thin sheet welding. Oh joy!! Still, went in alright, tacked in here, then cut out the rust and join the dots. Grind off and smooth out with a skim of filler. They do say, if you can't see the join it must be good. Inside the tube needs finishing, but pleased with the weld penetration Got a couple more patches to put on this tube, couple of big dents to pull out, and obviously painting and it'll be done. Second tube should be ready to remove from tank tomorrow, and that one had a big enough hole in it before it went in. So lawd knows what it'll be like when it comes out. I'll let you know.
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  11. Been a busy old week, so thought I would post early. Decided to make a start on the buttresses for the bulkhead. The originals were thin steel castings that must have been very badly corroded in that they had been discarded. It is much easier now, with the ready availability of plasma cutting, to produce faithful replicas, than in the 1970's when the replacements were made. I've had a kit of laser cut parts for a while now, stored in the airing cupboard. Some fettling was required: the bolt holes needed to be measured from the chassis and drilled into the bottom plates, some other parts needed the ends ground off at an angle to fit. Trial fitting of the off side bottom plate And the near side. Loose assembly of buttress parts. Near side buttress loose assembly. The front plate has been left over long and will be cut to size after welding. Frank the welder sent these two photographs of the buttresses tacked together, to check he'd got everything in the correct place (which he had!). Difficult to explain the job whilst maintaining social distancing. Now, turning to the bulkhead itself. The skirt along the bottom would originally have been supported by a piece of angle iron that ran across the whole width of the bulkhead. Somewhere in the bottom of the treasure chest were these: Remains of the skirt, angle iron support and the two spacer blocks - yes! they are originals. You can just make out the part number on the left-hand block. Here, trimming down a piece of 30 x 30 x 3 angle iron. Slitting disc in the angle grinder with another piece of steel clamped on as a guide. Final fettling with a flap disc, To match the height of the spacer blocks. I will return to this topic later, when the buttresses are back from being welded.
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  12. some one has welded up the hood block holes and the tinning on the leading edge of the hood is for the grill to hood bond strap nice to see the original lube chart holder keep going
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  13. Picture of when it was working on the fair.
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  14. It worked for The Showman Presland & Sons after demob. todays task was lifting the body off, Mudguards are still relatively intact for a pattern and the body floor is mainly good still, just sides need new timber. TC
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  15. First drive after seven month restoration
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  16. Clutch nearly working so managed to pull a gear and go for a spin, first time its moved under its own steam in a fair while. 81B60A65-2D64-4B61-9CD4-7C9B4E6E3AFA.MP4
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  17. Sorry it didn't work very well so I have changed it to a youtube video https://youtu.be/LyIzzA4MhoU
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