Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/31/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Having gathered together sufficient parts to make a start over the last year, I am at last ready to commence the restoration of Thornycroft J type No. 2393 of 1915. This chassis was recovered from beneath an old chalet in Skegness and thus protected has survived in remarkably good order. It was discovered and recovered by Graham Hand and passed on to John Marshall, who began to add parts as they became available, but was concentrating on his front runner J type 2282 also of 1915. It is great to find a chassis, particularly one in good condition, but the icing on the cake would be an engine and I became aware of the existence of a collection of Thornycroft parts in Sydney Australia. These parts from various models had been rescued from an auction having failed to attract any bidders and I soon discovered the new owner, Ian Browning was willing to move them on, providing I took on the whole collection. This was more than I wanted, but I decided to go for it and with the blessing of the Australian Government, I made arrangements to export a container load of rusty metal from the other side of the world. Ian took on the job of packing and loading in temperatures of 40 degrees which can't have been pleasant ( Thanks mate !) and after a 3 month voyage I took delivery at Southampton. The haul included 2 chassis (one 'X' one 'J') two M4 engines, one fairly complete, the other less so and various other hard to find parts. The chassis were just post war with no numbers visible. After a hard life hauling loads on Australian roads they were put to work again as farm trailers and further abused until abandoned and rescued for preservation. I had little interest in the rare X type parts,( being a lighter weight export model) and after considerable wrangling managed to swap these and the tired J chassis for the current 1915 project. I now have temporary accommodation which is secure if a little draughty on the Ox/ Bucks border. Anyone with workshop space in this area and/or an interest in helping with this project please shout ! I am also seeking parts including a gearbox, water pump and Diff gear. Regards, Tomo .
  2. 1 point
    It is an armature for a CAV starter motor. Details: Starter No.2, Mk1A/1 (CAV type MS624/1) fitted to Scammell Explorer, Contract No’s 7443 and 7915 Albion lorry 10 ton 6x4. Contract No’s 9788 and 15128 Hope this is of interest! regards Richard
  3. 0 points
    Work continued removing the engine ancillaries There then followed a slight hiatus involving an epic struggle to remove the exhaust manifold the problem was that at some stage in the engines life two manifold to block bolts had been replaced with the wrong type and had become welded in place, worst still the differential expansion again from the use of wrong bolts and nuts had cracked the outlet flange not good news and a real shame as everything else to date has been in good condition the hunt is now on for a replacement long block (25") right hand drive exhaust manifold...... watch this space. The next task was lift the engine out of the frame Next job will be to remove the front and rear axles. Pete
  4. 0 points
    I remember Ted posted this photo on a related post on RAF Camo a while ago. I guess it's orange to comply with AMO A731 of 3rd October 1940, especially useful as there appears to be a genuine mist in the background. However, there is a danger that we might get off topic, so the search is on for that elusive photo of a WW2 RAF vehicle saying Follow Me on it!
  5. 0 points
    .Re-reading AMO A731 of 1940 the all over orange is covered in para 1 & para 2 works and contractors tractors and machinery. para 3 covers prime movers operating on the landing ground and these require the double disc. Attached are the earliest shots I have of the double disc, preceding the subject AMO by in the 56 sqn shot 15 months. regarding the yellow v orange conundrum; AMO A 897 of 1944 is about vehicle painting - para 12 draws attention to AMO A 486 0f 44 as amended by AMO A518 of 44 in that upper surfaces of certain vehicles is to be yellow- when in fact the actual AMOs state 33A 125 Orange ?? Ted ps I bet it was all written by Officers !!
  6. 0 points
    Bowser, I'm not saying these people are wrong, but my experience has taught me to take these things with a pinch of salt until verified by a period source, or multiple independent memories. I mean, we're still waiting to see this squadron of Spitfires buried in Burma I apologise if my previous post offended, but to be fair I specifically did not dismiss the idea it could be used for escorting visiting American bombers; the RAF had a standard procedure for what to do on landing so it would seem odd that this one station needed to do things differently. Unless it was used to escort those aircraft being sent to the southern hard-standings that would have to cross the Cheapside road? If I were to concede to the statements you have presented we would still need to acknowledge that this is an oddity and that it was not universal or even widely adopted. As for colours, first off as Ted said earlier, whilst the orders stated orange the colour more usually seen is actually yellow (the later colour used on vehicle tops being Golden Yellow on the BS381 chart) probably because at the same time aircraft were receiving a yellow outer ring to the roundel - two birds one stone sort of situation. An example would be the Morris light recce in the Night Bombers video posted earlier on in this thread (unless I'm getting my threads crossed again). As for photos - how many photos have you seen of vehicles that would be covered by the 1940 AMO? Me, I can honestly say not very many. It would largely be Directorate of Works and civilian contractors, that sort of work - not the usual refuellers or bomb trolley tractors which should be going around the outside of the field (and later around the peri track).I have to dig out the photo of a Fordson N clearly showing the double disc (colour open to interpretation) I do however have a few albums in the RAF Museum collection lined up to view that look like they might cover these sorts of subjects, so I'll be sure to report back on here. You are right that much has been written online about RAF colour schemes, unfortunately a lot of it is written from hearsay, and we are lucky to have people on here who have spent much time on researching the subject and putting the record straight; paving the way for the rest of us to have discussions like these. I consider myself very fortunate to be in the position where I am actually being paid to undertake this research. Who knows what we might find as we go forward, I mean we are a far cry from the "All RAF vehicles were Blue-Grey" days now
  7. 0 points
    Last year I acquired a spare engine It is from a much later 4x4 truck but the blocks piston , con rods and crankshaft are the same. Today I made a start on stripping it down . It always amazes me that even when parts look completely rusted together how easily nuts and bolts can come undone . When I I try to do the same with modern nuts and bolts it usually ends having to resort to cutting them off .I can only assume that the steel used is of a different quality . Hope fully the con rods will be better than the ones in my other engine
  8. 0 points
    Dear All, Here are some photos of the Conqueror ARV: These were running around Slab Common a few years ago This was doing work on the rear spade at Bordon in the museum. The frame in front is the Antar's winch / fifth wheel sub-frame, This was testing the winch. I have never seen a photo of a Conqueror's spade embedded into the ground. This arrangement will resist a pull of 135 tons. This is the engine when I thought that all I had to do was replace some inlet valve oil seals. This shows rust damage due to not running the engine. This is a look into the ECU box that controls the electronic fuel injection. It controls 24 Rover V8 injectors. There have been several iterations of this ECU. This is the rig for lifting the cylinder block off the pistons and crank case. The long studs attached to the cylinder head ensure that the block is lifted up square. The engine is rotated and fixed 30 degrees from horizontal to allow for a vertical lift. When I found that the crank had to come out I then had to make a rig to rotate the engine 360 degrees. LOL. Nearly off! Two of the end, or corner, studs were broken off. The plan is to drill and tap the remains of the stud. The drill jig is ensuring that the stud is drilled absolutely central and vertical. I now have to strip down a scrap IVB to get a better bottom end. Unfortunately I will not be able to start this work until December.
  9. 0 points
    Another issue reared it's ugly head again as we tried to move her for fitting the top. She really doesn't like building up air pressure. I've cured several leaks, which improved things, but still not what you would call serviceable. Must be a problem with the compressor, so off it comes for a strip down. I knew it needed an oil change at the very least, having seen the gunge that was coating the bottom of the dipstick. But having read the Bedford RL thread by Tamber and seen his compressor issues, I wasn't sure what I would find. Drain the worst of the gunge out first Pull the head off. Much carbon on the top of the pistons, so much that it all but stops it going past TDC Head itself is not much better, valves are well caked in the stuff. Outlet valves are the square shaped holes and the inlet are the ring of smaller holes in each cylinder Bottom end appears OK, just full of slime. Really need a bigger parts washer. Sloshed out as much gunge as I could, then refitted the sump and filled it with clean diesel. Invented a socket holder for the hand drill to fit on the pulley and gave it a good ten minutes spinning over to circulate the diesel round the inside, which cleared out a load more. Repeated this a couple of times to flush out the rest, then ran through some clean oil to finish off. Sump off again to check all cleaned out, then refit with new gasket. On to the head, now. Outlet valves screw into the top of the head, and are just a simple flat plate under a small spring. Again caked with carbon, but in fairly good condition under the crap. Cleaned of and polished, and with the seats done too and they seal nicely. Took a bit of thinking on how to get to the inlet valves. I tested them and both were not sealing at all, so something had to be done. Worked it out in the end, the middle hole is a 1/4" BSF thread. Screw a bolt in and pull the whole thing out with this little invention Underneath is the same sort of flat plate and spring set up as on the outlet side. Clean, polish and refit. Pulling them out was a bit nerve wracking. They weren't keen on moving and I was concerned about damaging them. Having cleaned them up, they refitted a bit too easily, and I could see one dropping out onto a piston one day with results you don't want to think about. Glued them in with a good smear of locktight, so hopefully they will stay in place. Reassemble the whole thing and give it a test. Just spinning it over by hand, you cannot hold your finger over the outlet pipe, there's too much pressure building up. Put your hand on the inlet, and once it has got hold the vacuum won't let go, so I think I've got a result here. Finished off with some bondaprimer all over, ready for some of that green colour everybody loves A fresh pair of belts are on order for it, and with a bit of luck she'll be up and running next weekend
  • Create New...