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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Might be worth asking here http://www.classic-british-car-jacks.uk Nice bloke on Retro rides restores German made ones too
  2. 1 point
    This Danish made jack has similarities, they have made jacks since 1946 so it could be a 1950's / 60's one; http://www.compac.dk/en/products/jacks-4-20-ton/high-lift-jacks-5-10-tons/8t-hc-detail
  3. 0 points
    Work still going on apace. Wings are on the critical path and Father has been working on them. I have had the front wings in the loft for 25 years and we dug them out the other day. I orignally painted them before putting them up but it wasn't Bondaprime and the rust has started to come through. Father had top spend a lot of time cleaning them back before painting. David took on the rear wings and degreased them and primed them. Thanks for that David. I need to start thinking about the brackets as they are going to need some significant work in big lumps of steel. They are very heavy bits of ironwork and will need grinding to a curved section to represent the original forgings. In the meantime, I have completed the footbrake bell crank. I started on this some time ago by having a blank cut out by water jet machine. After the centre holes were drilled, it was then machined to thickness in several steps. Then the graft started. This item would have been a forging so the edges would all have been curved. Only way to create that feature was with a file! About four hours of filing later. Then the end holes were drilled out to accept the ball joints currently in work and the main pivot hole was bored and reamed. An additional feature is that both ends are cranked in opposite direction, This was done hot using the vice and an adjustable spanner for leverage. A good wire brushing and another one off the list. Steve
  4. 0 points
    I don't hold with this electrickery. Gas lights are good enough for me! The last couple of days, I have been fooling with the foot brake linkage. Rather unusually, it is all connected with ball joints rather than clevises. I am not convinced that this was a good idea but I shall continue with it until proven otherwise. We are fortunate to have one original joint. After stripping down and cleaning, I found that the internal thread is 11/16" x 26. Stupid size! I haven't got one of course so I had to order two taps and a die. Three blanks of 1" bar cut by hand. Oh, for Father's bandsaw! Then on to the plugs. These were a simple turning job before threading 11/16" and then cutting the split pin slots with a slitting saw. After parting off, I started on the balls whilst I decided what to do about the spherical sockets. Then onto the ball sections An Arrand spherical turning attachment. I have only used this once, to make the track rod ends so I had to puzzle a bit over how to set it up. All went well in the end and it was quite a satisfying turning exercise. Cutting the hexes. Now we come onto the spherical sockets. Generating these was a puzzle so I made up a D-bit in silver steel. I could not get it to cut properly until I got it so hot that I softened it at which point I lost patience and went and ordered a ball-ended slot drill. Can anyone offer tips for this sort of D-bit please? there must be a trick to it! More brake linkage tomorrow. Steve