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  1. 2 points
    I replied to a earlier thread on this subject and at that time could not add any thing to it other than what i knew at that time since then l have been put to gether a list of RAF MU's AAW's AVD BVD RVD and there locations several things have come to light concerning the numbers allocated to them one location can have two or three different numbers on the same site or in a area covered by one area command BURN near YORK and BARLOW near SELBY had the same 41 AVD were is this taking us well up to now with what i already knew i have found one hundred locations and B42 was located at WALLINGTON in the uk ps at the same time DIAMOND Ts were under going rebuilds at the same time
  2. 2 points
    Well, it works! We have had some fun and games this morning but eventually, it went and I have some film files to post once I have worked out how to do them.. Idles nicely but dies when I try to open the throttle so I will need some advice about Solex carbs. More later! Steve
  3. 1 point
    Having gathered together sufficient parts to make a start over the last year, I am at last ready to commence the restoration of Thornycroft J type No. 2393 of 1915. This chassis was recovered from beneath an old chalet in Skegness and thus protected has survived in remarkably good order. It was discovered and recovered by Graham Hand and passed on to John Marshall, who began to add parts as they became available, but was concentrating on his front runner J type 2282 also of 1915. It is great to find a chassis, particularly one in good condition, but the icing on the cake would be an engine and I became aware of the existence of a collection of Thornycroft parts in Sydney Australia. These parts from various models had been rescued from an auction having failed to attract any bidders and I soon discovered the new owner, Ian Browning was willing to move them on, providing I took on the whole collection. This was more than I wanted, but I decided to go for it and with the blessing of the Australian Government, I made arrangements to export a container load of rusty metal from the other side of the world. Ian took on the job of packing and loading in temperatures of 40 degrees which can't have been pleasant ( Thanks mate !) and after a 3 month voyage I took delivery at Southampton. The haul included 2 chassis (one 'X' one 'J') two M4 engines, one fairly complete, the other less so and various other hard to find parts. The chassis were just post war with no numbers visible. After a hard life hauling loads on Australian roads they were put to work again as farm trailers and further abused until abandoned and rescued for preservation. I had little interest in the rare X type parts,( being a lighter weight export model) and after considerable wrangling managed to swap these and the tired J chassis for the current 1915 project. I now have temporary accommodation which is secure if a little draughty on the Ox/ Bucks border. Anyone with workshop space in this area and/or an interest in helping with this project please shout ! I am also seeking parts including a gearbox, water pump and Diff gear. Regards, Tomo .
  4. 1 point
    Try 1/4 Unf and look on eBay.
  5. 1 point
    Tested Spring in Tividale Birmingham. Theyve done all sorts for me. Including Aveling safety valve springs
  6. 1 point
    Looks good @Samro nice to see an intact Triad 32 😜
  7. 1 point
    If the local yabbo's are to be believed this can be fixed by lowering the suspension, adding a chrome endpiece to the exhaust and fitting a useless spoiler. A new soundsystem and metallic paintjob are optional but can't hurt either.
  8. 1 point
    Belzona is excellent, and used in heavy industry. MoD use it and I have used it successfully in all sorts of applications. regards Richard
  9. 1 point
    One method that may be suitable:-
  10. 1 point
    The correct colour is Sky Blue EMER WORKSHOPS Chapter 3. Paints in Service Use. Table 1 H1/8010-99-943-4730 Paint, Finishing, Heat Resisting, High Gloss, Sky Blue BSC 101, Brushing
  11. 1 point
    Funny enough,and not much help in your search Im afraid but I also had 2 pairs of blue overalls/boiler suits when I did YTS in 1987 and from memory they had rubber buttons.
  12. 1 point
    well done thanks for sharing your photos it helps to inspire all of us who are doing the same thing
  13. 1 point
    OK Lex....Her name is Judith. Ron
  14. 1 point
    Yes, thanks again for your help. I had asked many 'knowledgeable' people about the problem over the last two years to no avail. I posted the original question more as a last resort. I hope our paths cross one day. Jeff
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    I care as it is the way it should be done.
  17. 1 point
    I thought so too when I got her. 6 plugs so 4 pots must share inner 2 inlets.
  18. 1 point
    We were fortunate to be down in Devon over the weekend and whilst still concentrating on finishing the Thornycroft, thoughts are beginning to turn to the Peerless. We want to start by getting the engine out and going right through it. This we can do with the space that we have without putting anything into storage so we decided to take the sheet off and have a look at what we have got. We put the lorry ito Father's car-port about twenty years ago and packed all of the spares around it before sheeting it down. Tim started pulling bits out and we are amazed at what we have. One forgets after so long! We had turned the wheels onto a hard lock to improve access to the back door of the house so the next task was to straighten them up. The steering had seized completely so I disconnected the drag link. Still no movement until I realised that it had sunk into the tarmac by an inch! I jacked it and we put boards under the wheels whereupon they straightened easily and revolved freely as well. After doing the same for the back, we rolled it back six feet to give us some acces for removing the engine. Exciting times! Steve
  19. 1 point
    You could try an in-distributor condensor replacement before committing to a rebuild. http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/easycap/index.htm Personally I don't like to see magnetos converted to coil ignition. A magneto in good condition provides an excellent spark and they are very reliable.
  20. 1 point
    The 'Bling' Ferret may well have suited the taste of the guy who built it, but it was for sale on and off for more than 10 years without finding a buyer. If it was left stock it would have sold no problem. This is the point I was making about keeping all the parts.
  21. 1 point
    It is a sad time, my condolences. Your memories of him are priceless and keep him with you.
  22. 1 point
    Although the Thorny couldn't make it to Brighton we went down to see everything coming in. An incredibly hot day so thousands of people descended onto the town. Trains all cancelled so everyone came by bus or car. The traffic was very bad and with the judging time expiring at 14:00 i think more than half of the vehicles had not arrived. Of the WW1 vehicles entered two Y Types withdrew, the LGOC and FWD broke down on the way. Pierce Arrow made good time followed by Grahams Y and the Hallford. Star of the show was for me which Liberty B which looked great and on occasion towed the Saurer and the FWD up a hill. A grand day out and nice to meet so many friends.
  23. 1 point
    We haven't balanced the shaft. The rotation depends on how well I drilled the leather so there will be some variability in it. Hopefully, there won't be a problem but if there is, then I will have to get it done. No time left at this stage! Dad is still pressing on and has sent this report: Our old friend and great old lorry enthusiast, John Corah arrived to do the Sign Writing for us. Previously he completed similar work on our FWD and then on our Dennis and we have always been full of admiration of his wonderful skills. Steve had made life quicker and easier for him by completing all of the Art Work full size, before hand so that when he arrived, John could go directly into his procedure of covering Steve’s writing showing through to the back of Steve’s paper with a white chalk crayon so that when the paper was impressed against the position to be signed , all John had to do was to go over the drawing on the outside with a pen to leave a chalk impression on the surface to be sign written for the chalked shape to come off.. The following sequence of pictures will show what happened. Incidentally, John has written book entitled “The writing’s on the the Truck” which demonstrates his skills and procedures and contains dozens of photographs of old vehicles which will be enjoyed by any old lorry enthusiast. And then it was exactly the same procedure again for the remainder of the writing on the side of the lorry. And then the Number Plates and lastly, painting the Thornycroft Name Badge! Thanks John. Now it looks the part! Steve
  24. 1 point
    And would surely invalidate your warranty.
  25. 1 point
    Derek yes that's coming on, but I think there should be two sliding doors on each side. That then allows a wider exit hole for the length of the missile, because at present the door can't go too far forward as it would encroach on the driver's door. A split door that is operated by a rack & pinion would obviously less burdensome to open. Presumably the rear loader would open the rear sliding door & the front loader the front sliding door. Of course there is quite a barrier, in the form of the launcher arms/cradles, between the front & rear loaders, which is why the rear loader has his own rear door. As I understand it Eric was the Sales Manager during most of the time of the manufacture of Shorlands. The export drive was down to him mainly & he was on a sales mission abroad when the take over happened & sadly the records seemed to have been cleared out & presumably discarded/destroyed. Eric died about 4 years ago, but it is him in many of the sales brochures featuring a man in a DPM jacket firing a gun or missile from a Shorland.
  26. 0 points
    Hi after restoring and finally getting registered and on the road I have found the old girl is bouncing on the front end and front tyres are getting warm only in top gear from about 20 mph ive looked in the maintenance manual and it just says inflate to correct pressure there is no pressure written on the tyres they are 14x20 22ply I’m currently running at 60psi
  27. 0 points
    That brings back memories, I was offered a sales job at Auto Diesels Braby back in 1974.
  28. 0 points
    Found a useful part languishing on the spare frame, which was missing on the project chassis. One starting handle socket. Unfortunately the 'Ozrust' had taken an unsually firm hold and the blighter refused to budge, despite a month off, relaxing in a deisel bath . After a bit of light straining it became obvious that heavier artillery would be necessary and Stan produced the world's biggest tap wrench and lit up the oxycetylene. Resistance quickly crumbled under this ferocious assault and amidst plumes of smoke from vaporizing penetrant, the socket slowly began to turn again. Would have made a good picture but unfortunately our hands were full. Here is a reconstruction of the method of attack. You'll have to imagine the smoke.
  29. 0 points
    Just finishing off the interior, ready for show season this year. In all just over 2000 hours of labour and a fair whack of money - but worth it, as we are all (those that worked on it) very pleased with the outcome. This is especially true when we consider it was our first tank restoration... and working in its tiny confines was described by one chap as like; 'doing mechanics whilst potholing'. Next will be the VTT, but only once we have enjoyed driving/ showing this one.
  30. 0 points
    Suffolk Holiday - May 28th ~ June 2nd After East Kirkby, on Tuesday May 28th, we continued South to Suffolk for a mini holiday, staying on Clive Steven's farm, himself an MV collector. Originally, I had asked just for a safe place to leave the Jeep, but Clive offered us a patch of grass large enough for our 5 acre tent! Most of the day was taken up by packing up at East Kirkby, the drive South and setting up the tent again at the new location. Norfolk and Suffolk was of course the home to the U.S. 8th Army Air Force during World War 2, and so a bit of exploring in the Jeep was on the cards. We were staying near the town of Eye, itself an 8th Air Force airfield. Not far away in flying time are two current USAF airfields - Mildenhall and Lakenheath. Aircraft from these airfields were frequently seen flying over head, including many F-15 Eagles, though none when I had my DSLR camera to hand!
  31. 0 points
    East Kirkby "Lanc, Tank & Military Machines" - May 25 & 27th Military Vehicles & Armour This was our second time at the show, but this year, the Jeep went in US markings rather than the RAF of last year. Saturday was the brighter of the two days, although the bright Sun did make for very contrasty pictures. I took hundreds of photos, only a small percentage of which I added to my Jeep website gallery. Fewer still are added here, but I've picked out some of the more unusual vehicles and will add a link to my gallery pages. My family and "Jessie the Jeep"
  32. 0 points
    The engine has taken a back seat for a bit. Mainly while I progress a couple of underwater projects, one of which is scanning an entire 52 acre lake in 3D. I will share the model here, if only for the tenuous link that there is the hulk of an AFV432 sitting in 24m of water: Section of quarry with AFV432 But with that processed and out of the way it was time to crack on with the engine. First up, the tappet rollers from all even numbered cylinders were pulled out. This proved to be the easiest job of the day: Then it was time to get the cylinder bolts undone. After slimming down a ring spanner to wafer thin, the nuts were removed. Space was a premium: Now the it appears that the cylinder heads are held down with studs. Not so. Of the 12 fixings, 8 are pan head screws: And when viewed from inside the crank case: There is two visible in the above image, very close to the cylinders. Now, true to form several of them started to rotate with the nyloc nut. This proved to be a PITA and needed another special tool knocked up on the bench grinder and careful filing: Its a knackered 1/2" allen key I have had lying around in the toolbox for about 30 years. Kept for no good reason apart from "It will come in handy one day". And so it did. Not easy to access, but eventually they all yielded and bingo, the first cylinder slid off the crankcase: Now its pretty mucky inside, but in excellent condition with remnants of preserving oil oozing from every pore. The purpose of the oil pipes that were running into crankcase next to every cylinder is now understood; its injecting lubricant directly into the bore and presumably finding its way down to the big end. After initial success the predictable happened and the worlds thinnest ring spanner split when attempting the next cylinder. A crows foot spanner is on its way and progress should return. The gudgeon pin appeared to be held in place by a split pin, but on closer inspection there appears to be no gudgeon pin at all - not in the traditional sense at least - and after the split pin was removed closer inspection has left me wondering how this assembly goes together, and apart. I will post up some pictures soon.
  33. 0 points
    Wiring of the new instrument panel almost complete. Once finished focus will switch to getting the engine ready to install and try and start.
  34. 0 points
    Happy Christmas to all!!!!! Thanks for the ideas, reply's, in the end they will be cast steel, whether new or original I don't know, where from, I have no idea but that's for next year. Thanks for the idea and offer Highland Laddie but I must confess, I have never understood the concept, maybe I am old fashioned or stupid. The project will, I am determined, get finished, as long as I don't suffer a serious bout of death. When? when it does, I am in no hurry. Every little component or assembly takes time, especially as there are no drawings. Part of the problem is determining how an assembly actually works so that it can be replicated and as I don't have the opportunity of stripping these assemblies down or x ray eyes, it takes some time to construct something that will actually work and that's before I start making the assembly. Sometimes I find a picture / drawing, in my dreams. Have a good one, Jon
  35. 0 points
    As you say, this part of the chassis should not be under great stress, particularly if the bolts / rivets have not been loose. However the Goslings' J was cracked in almost the same place. I wonder if it could be a result of weakness caused by the manufacturing process ? And why only the LH chassis rail ? David
  36. 0 points
    Clutch is now free, air systems work properly, ive started on rust repair I shall update in the new year, really enjoying it was going to stop work months ago but the weather has been so mild the shed has been warm enough lol. I shall reignight the debate on the rear prop before long... 😜
  37. 0 points
    The Chief is nearly ready for Tim to take home and finish off the bits that I don't have. Ron
  38. 0 points
  39. 0 points
    We are getting towards the end of the job now and only the last few odds and ends remain. However, if we don't do them now, they will never get done! I have been given a copy of the Ministry of Munitions drawing for the standard chock or 'Scotch' as they call it so I decided to make up a couple to hang on the back. The drawing specifies Elm but I think we will settle for softwood. Fortunately, I had a spare plank in the shed. First job, though, was to sort out some bolts and fortunately for us, we had some in stock. I made up the square washers to the drawing. Ten minutes with the band saw. Interestingly, rather than screw the chain to the rear of the scotch, there is a hole in the centre so that it can go around the tie bolt. Then we needed the rings for the end so I bent some rod, cold, around a bit of bar in the vice. And then joined them using silver solder again. There is a long narrow link between the scotch and the first ring. These were bent hot. A bit of chain rescued from an old chain block and that is another job off the list! The timber for the tool boxes is on order so we plan to make them up over Christmas along with re-fitting the fuel tank. Then we should be ready for a proper run! Steve
  40. 0 points
  41. 0 points
    Some photos taken before the black and white photo
  42. 0 points
    Is this image helpful? (link to original image) https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=horn+on+veteran+lorry+image&rlz=1T4GZAZ_enGB367GB367&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj6nMuP5MncAhWHJcAKHTeVDgoQsAR6BAgGEAE&biw=1096&bih=846#imgrc=YoIQwMn1Abm7DM:&spf=1533055325072
  43. 0 points
    ....things are continually developing! We are very pleased to confirm the active attendance of the London Transport museum's "Battle Bus" (complete with mobile exhibition) over the Tracks to the Trenches weekend! The B-type, developed by the London General Omnibus Company (LGOC), was the first successful mass-produced motor bus. Introduced in 1910, it was designed and built in London. LGOC’s horse-drawn bus fleet was replaced by motor buses in a relatively short time. By 1913 there were 2,500 B-type buses in service, each carrying 340,000 passengers per year along 600 miles of busy roads in and around London. Soon into the FWW, many were requisitioned to assist with troop transport to the frontline areas.
  44. 0 points
    We then decided to try running the engine. It runs for about 30 seconds at a time, which at the moment I have put down to fuel starvation as I only started out with two gallons in the tank. I hope the video works (despite the poor quality). MVI_4364.MOV
  45. 0 points
    Not sure yet but we haven't hit a show-stopper! After brazing up the first end and giving it a clean, it looked OK. A stick and a half went into the joint and didn't come out anywhere so I think it is fine. I didn't get the clean fillet I wanted around the bottom but it will be OK. On to the second joint. First job was to cut it to length after some very careful measuring. I was aiming to make it between size and 1/4" short so that I could add shims if necessary. Too long would be a disaster! Father's trusty bandsaw soon made short work of it. That doesn't half save some graft! Then flux both parts and brick up as before. I found myself a nice stool and, using Father's biggest burner, off we went. Flux just coming up to temperature. Run some 455 grade silver solder. Move the torch around the back to make sure it runs properly. And bingo, a nice sound joint. I did a much better job this time and the solder ran right through. Underneath the ring of flux was a nice fillet. I was very pleased and quite relieved! Each joint used a stick and a half which at £14- a stick means that each joint cost £21- to make. It isn't a cheap process but for one-offs it is very effective. I love the process, as you can tell! Then it was the moment of truth and time to try to install the thing. First job was to insert the leathers and partially insert the bolts. Then it was a two-man lift to get it roughly into position and knock the bolts in to take the weight. Amazingly, it was exactly the right length with no shims required. Access isn't bad but I can't sit like that for very long any more... Dad machined the heads off the bolts and drilled them for split pins ready for me to install. There are only six bolts at each end but it is surprisingly time consuming to fit them properly. Back end done. And on to the front where access was more awkward. All went well, however and we have a prop shaft. When you turn the handle at the front, the differential turns. All we need now are some half-shafts and it will drive. Sadly, I am back at work so that will have to wait for Saturday, One more tick in the box! Steve
  46. 0 points
    Not exactly playing Devil's advocate myself but, having spent many years in the motor trade (a long time ago) and having recently become involved with the maintenance of some heavy-ish preserved vehicles, I am of the opinion that no vehicle used on the road should be exempt from MOT testing unless it is operated by an organisation with the capability and responsibility to subject it to a stringent routine maintenance schedule, e.g. The MoD and emergency services. A case recently came to my attention, of a preserved vehicle from the 1950's which is MOT exempt and in use on the road. One day, the owner complained that the brakes were poor. To cut a long story short, it transpired that the front brakes were not working at all (cylinders all seized), the rear brake cylinders were working (but leaking) and one rear hub oil seal had failed, allowing oil to contaminate the linings on that side. So, only one wheel with effective braking on a vehicle which weighs over eight tons and is capable of over 60mph. How long the vehicle had been used on the road in that condition is anybody's guess but my point is that a rolling road check as part of an MOT test would have flagged up these issues long before the vehicle became the deathtrap that it was. Yes, I know that you all maintain your vehicles to an impeccable standard but there are also people with older vehicles who will do the minimum that they can get away with. The requirement for an annual MOT test raises the standard of that minimum and, let's face it, is a relatively inexpensive way of obtaining a pretty comprehensive roadworthiness check for your own peace of mind.
  47. 0 points
    If you search "Standard Beaverette kit" there are some interesting information / kit building sites e.g. :- http://panzerserra.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/beaverette-mk-iii-part-01.html https://panzerserra.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/beaverette-mk-i-mk-ii-double-building.html Standard Beaverette.MKIV.Maintenance manual:- http://www.greenmachinesurplus.com/standard-beaverettemkivmaintenance-manual-2328-p.asp
  48. 0 points
    Nothing much to write about at the moment, still having problems with my back. But I did spend a gentle hour stripping the petrol tank yesterday. One tiny dent to deal with and waiting for my new bottle of 'Jenolite' to arrive before any paint is applied. Mostly the tank had been stripped before being painted black and red. But there was still original green paint under the knee grips, and as I've found on other parts, no primer was ever used on this bike. But still that paint is very tough and hard to remove. Something to be said for that old fashioned paint that we're now denied of. Ron
  49. 0 points
    Thanks! It is proving a bit of a challenge though. We are still on target but losing, slowly! We are thinking of the things we don't really need, like petrol tin carriers and toolboxes and perhaps we will borrow the lamps off the Dennis. We shall See! In the mean time, I have had a long weekend in Devon with the aim of delivering the last two patterns and finishing the body ready for painting. Painting is definitely on the critical path and cannot be rushed so the sooner Dad can be doing that, the better. We had previously fitted the crossmembers and the floor which had all been painted previously. Now, we wanted to fit the headboard. Dad had painted the planks so they could be fitted facing the seat without worrying about access. We started off by jointing the side rails to allow the front crossmember to be fitted along with the corner posts. I had allowed too much length on the front kerb rail so that was trimmed using the trusty chop-saw, a Christmas present from Dad a couple of years ago. This is a fearsome tool but wonderful to use. Dropped into the rebate to check the fit. The front plank was then screwed to it. Slot-headed screws of course. No Pozidrives here! Once that had been done the headboard was built up using the planks so beautifully prepared by Mark with grooves and seperate tongues. I then had a puzzle as to why I had ordered the uprights so tall. When I looked at my drawing, I realised that they were jointed into the cross pieces. The end pieces were screwed on from the back. After cutting halving joints in the ends, the top rail was trial fitted. Mark had cut it to length and it was perfect first time. I chiselled out the mortices. Final assembly, ready to fit. It is some weight and took some putting up but we did it. It was secured with the steel corner posts bolted through.
  50. 0 points
    Leo is a pure bred Belgian Shepherd dog, which is a lighter build of German Shepherd. He still has problems telling a 1/4" Whit. spanner from a 1/2" AF but he is getting there :-D !
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