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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/11/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Jon, Simply amazing. You are talented beyond belief! I have been following you since you were just building the turret, and when you started on this endeavor after the volume of encouragement to do so, I couldn't have been more excited. You are getting so close, and you have to be applauded for your commitment to staying as close to authentic as possible. I can't wait to see the hull mated with the turret, and even better, one day moving along on it's very own set of tracks. Keep it up brother...you're truly an inspiration! -Tom
  2. 1 point
    Snowy from Tin Tin? I,ll get my coat
  3. 1 point
    As an inservice weapon It is presumably still clasified as a Restricted Document so excempt from the FOI Act.
  4. 1 point
    If no-one on here has one it's worth trying a Freedom of Information request to the MOD. Andy
  5. 1 point
    The rear window recess I did took ages and lots of bad language! It looked really great when complete and with paint on it. The problem came when we fitted the rear window in its new channel, it sat proud by a good few mm at the bottom corners. Because there was very little pattern left I based the bottom corners on the top ones, the shape was right but it didnt take into account a slight camber on the actual metalwork on the back of the cab!! It was too late to do anything the the painted metal so we ended up very very carefully using a file to take some rubber off the window channel, in the end we did enough to make it fit and it does look right. I totally understand frustrations in this sort of situation and think all the more when you see results like you are getting.
  6. 1 point
    Thanks Tapper, it feels very close and yet there are still several major hurdles to negotiate but that's all part of the challenge. Time for an update me thinks. I have finished the engine cover although I have cheated and used 1.6mm steel sheet for the covers to save weight. Around the opening of this cover there is a radiused section, best shown in this picture. Also there is a 15mm gap right around the covers, too big a gap to be just clearance. I had assumed that it was a rain water channel but the more I studied the pictures I realised that the reason for the large gap and the radiused section was to allow air into the engine bay around the sides of the covers but I assume, not allow splinters to enter. On the original tank the two covers were not locked together, the lower over had no locking mechanism being held in place by it's own weight and the top cover having a locking mechanism. In my tank the covers lock together, as the lower door is not heavy enough stay in place on it's own. The radio operators escape hatch mow has it's latch and handle. Next to the radio operators chair there is a wall which is part of the engine bay bulkhead which for some reason is cut across at about 45 degrees Most probably to give access to the engine bay from inside the tank. Most of the pictures that I can find show this as being a bolted in section apart from one that shows it as having a hinged access door. I decided that as my ignition coil and amplifier are situated in this area a hinged cover would be a very good idea. When I made the radiator hinged cover, I made it as a two piece assembly. Once the hull top was in place it became obvious that it wouldn't close and should have been made in three sections. The only thing that then concerned me, was would it block the radio operators escape hatch. Once I had altered it, it became obvious that it tucks away nicely out of the way. The radio aerial on the panzer 2 is raised from inside the tank using this device. The handle is rotated up to raise that aerial and rotated down to lower it. The end of the handle is sprung so that when it is in the raised position it locks it's self in position, to lower the aerial you pull the end of the handle out and rotate it down. The unit to the right of the main unit contained a rotary coupling for the cable from the aerial to the radio apparatus. The shaft going between the rotating unit and the aerial outside the tank would have been in two parts and insulated so that the operator didn't get a shock when he touch the handle. In mine the shaft is in one piece. The radio mast was attached to the shaft via a coupling. This is the one on the Panzer ii in Bovington. And mine. When the mast is in the down position, it lays in a wooded tray that is bolted to the track guard. Sorry that it was such a long update, I get carried away or as my darling wife says, I should be carried away. Jon
  7. 1 point
    Thats a neat piece of metalwork, from experience getting the shape/contour of window or screen recesses is quite tricky. I had to fabricate a complete rear screen recess on one of our lorries, it took a lot of patience and in the end a few attempts!
  8. 1 point
    Barry, my Modified stoves all have that burner
  9. 1 point
    Now you’ve practised on your own body you can sort mine out Duncan!!!😂😂😂😂👍
  10. 1 point
    Thank you Pete, I find researching stuff like this fascinating, especially when its family or vehicle related!! Kevin.
  11. 1 point
    Cracking bit of work there, especially the home made bending jig. As you say never throw anything out, it might be useful later. Not trying to pick holes, here, but a sensible question. Did you attempt to treat the rust on the inside of this panel? And if so, how?
  12. 1 point
    From what I have been told the lorry and it’s contents have been found, Apparently in a layby and no damage to the cargo. Police are there and hopefully they may catch the scum who did this. But, I’ve taken it as a wake up call for the security of my stuff!
  13. 1 point
    Lovely work there Pete. As they say "It's a bit like eating an Elephant, one small mouthful at a time". 😦 That windscreen surround & scuttle will be a test. Watching with great interest regards Pete from OZ
  14. 1 point
    Sorry these have taken so long but it's only recently while extracting some hay making equipment that I've had a chance to get anywhere near our old Karrier (or remains of). I seem to remember there was a query about the prop tube, anyway our chassis still has it fitted, hope pictures are helpful/of interest. Keep up the great work! Regards. Ed.
  15. 1 point
    Is it one of these types you're after?
  16. 1 point
    Can you clean up those casting marks as one appears to be the letters JAC. If so it is a foundry name. I have JAC marks on some Thornycroft parts and have found the initals on other castings of the time. Doug
  17. 1 point
    My gut feel is that the open spoke wheel is the earliest, then the very closed wheel then the two round hole wheels. My reason is that the brake ventilation holes get steadily larger which I think would be the natural evolution. The closing of the open spokes and then somewhat opening them up again could be for casting quality reasons. I wonder how many people will notice that you have odd rear wheels when the bus is being displayed ! David
  18. 1 point
    The Clansman PRC344 is a 2W UHF AM transceiver intended for FAC use. As such, there is nowhere within its range that it is legal to transmit. In fact, of all the Clansman equipment, this is the one where transmitting can at best get you into legal trouble, at worst endanger aircraft and lives. But you say, I would NEVER transmit! Well, maybe not deliberately, but who hasnt turned a switch the wrong way accidentally? How easy is it to catch the pressel on a handset? And what about inquisitive fingers from the public at a display when your backs turned? There are no 'power on' lights on this to show your not just playing with a switched off set! It is very easy to ensure you stay legal with the 344, regardless of whether you have a handset, headset, remote radio attached, or select BEACON mode, you simply need to disable the transmitter. So, how do we do this? Surely it needs a technician? Well, no. The PRC344 is a modular system, and provided you take care, this is a very easy fix. We just need to remove a pair of numbered plug-in modules! First, remove the battery! On the larger side cover (not the switch side), remove the 14 hex bolts and lift off the cover. On the plate with the switches underneath, you will see a U shaped section of thick stainless steel wire, clipped over a screw in the middle and with its ends going into two holes. Lift this up with a screwdriver near the screw, and it will come off - this is the module removal tool! Now, locate module 3 (all modules are numbered on their tops), you will see it has holes in the corners. Insert the ends of the tool in these holes, and gently pull. The module will come out. Check it says Amplifier Direct Current on the side (to make sure you havent pulled out the wrong one!), and put it away somewhere safe (so you can put it back if you sell the set). Then, locate module 8, and extract that. Check its says Regulator Audio Level on it to ensure its the right one. Put that in the same safe place as module 3. Replace the extractor tool, making sure it is securely clipped down (if it comes loose inside it will cause big problems!), and refit the lid, making sure to put it back on the way around you removed it, as there are foam pads attached that hold the modules down. This should be easy, as there is a long dessicant canister attached in one corner, and a diagonal cut in another, that matches the diagonal on the body. Tighten up the bolts. Your set will now work just as before, only it will not transmit. Module 3 is the Direct Current Amplifier. It is responsible for providing the control voltages that activate the transmit amplifiers, and switch the antenna relay. It also provides the sidetone on transmit (audio feedback to the headgear). Inside it, there is a logic control gate, which will only activate if it gets a Phase Lock signal from the synthesiser, indicating that the frequency is stable. By removing module 3, there is no logic control, so no control signals to the rest of the transmitter. With only module 3 removed, switching to beacon mode will still activate the Tx RF Oscillator and Driver circuits (these are hard wired into the set). As a result, there will be a slight leakage of RF energy. This is very low level, but may be detectable ( I can detect the emission from my set on a commercial scanner many tens of meters away!) so in order to be absolutely safe, removing module 8 disables the beacon oscillator and Tx microphone audio stages. And after this, you still have an original condition radio, that will still receive properly. It will still look just as good at a display or show, but now you dont have to worry about accidentally calling in an air strike! Martin G7MRV
  19. 1 point
    From the Wikipedia page: Andy
  20. 1 point
    Yep, really nice and, as Ferg and Terry said, good to see one in post-war British colours. 10 68
  21. 1 point
    Well done , looks great and as already said it’s great to see a differently painted and marked jeep 👍
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Nice! Such a refreshing change from all those Screaming Eagles wannabees!
  24. 1 point
    You could always try the QRL/Notts Yeomanry Regts museum at Thoresby Hall Courtyard. They might be able to help further.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    I do not know if this helps if it is in deed a 2nd army carrier RC stands for trooper commander battery C
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    From some pictures seen on this forum; I made a 3D model of the Dodge light repair truck.
  29. 1 point
    Its not taking any hurt in the shed.
  30. 0 points
    Sorry no idea, the above picture was given to me by a friend. There is another picture found on this forum of the Tilling's chassis and a little of the removed body in the background, as before location unknown.
  31. 0 points
    There has been an AEC LD55 on E bay for quite some time: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AEC-Dump-truck-scammell-LD55-quarry-lorry/292857562079?hash=item442fabc3df:g:25oAAOSwEJ1cDNen Chassis numbers DN099>539 were AV690 built at Aveling Barford, BHV10001>10355 were built by Thornycroft at Basingstoke while WHV10400>10731 were built by Scammell at Watford including the later mk2.
  32. 0 points
    The bus is going to be sympathetically restored using as much original wood as possible in the body with the addition of a new top deck and staircase. It won’t have a super paint job as originally the khaki green was literally painted on with brooms and slapped on as best they could. We will do what we need to do but she will keep her “ battle scars” of 105 years😁
  33. 0 points
    Photo caption: Children playing in the abandoned RAF generator truck, Iraq, 1947.
  34. 0 points
    I hate to say it as I am not on Facebook and don't agree with this forum being used as a portal to it. There is a private group on Facebook with all the info you need. I know as my EB was photographed and measured, including the crane hook adaptor and my set of manuals (user and parts for Mk1 and MK2) to be available for the group. Something I regret to some extent. I don't have a copy of the manual scans for you but if you join the group you will get all the help. As an alternative as would you believe it not everyone is on Facebook, you can get the manuals (copies) from Green Machine Surplus. Iain
  35. 0 points
    And now with new doors!
  36. 0 points
    I have a very nice (almost mint) MT350 motorcycle that is complete with toolbox, gunbox and panniers and in original condition. Its 1994, 3 previous owners, 17,800 miles recorded and MoT to December 2020 (no advisories). It also comes with a spare brand new fork assembly that alone retails for £600-800. The picture shows it with a non-standard top box that has been removed. Nice registration ending "TNT"!! I am looking for £2750 but intending to re-invest in a Lightweight Land Rover or similar, so am interested in a PX. A straight sale is fine too.
  37. 0 points
    That box is a real nice piece of history in itself.
  38. 0 points
    It looks superb in my opinion. You are certainly getting plenty of work in during lockdown. Kevin
  39. 0 points
    Any one who has seen the Tanker thread lately will have read the bit about visiting the other woman for diesel distribution, and as I said there, haven't been near the old girl for ages what with the restrictions etc and concentrating on the Tankers restoration. Feeling guilty about neglect and so on, thought I'd best give her a bit of love too. So spent a day giving her a once over, oil, water, tyre pressures etc, and planned a run out for the not too distant future. A good many months ago now, had a discussion with the Guv' nor at work about moving a container office in the bus yard where the Tanker is kept Wants to be moved along the concrete slab up towards the fence. Rather than pay some one to come in and do it, suggestion was it could be done with the Militant. Just put the winch rope through the fence and pull. So, plan was hatched. Good run out for the truck it's about 50 miles each way, shift the container, thereby earning a few brownie points, and use the bus washing kit while we are there. Nice early start yesterday, and stop for a breakfast bite on the way Took a few shunts to get in the right place for a straight pull Hook a couple of chains and the winch rope on, engage gear and pull Job done. No effort at all, truck didn't even notice there was a weight hooked on the winch rope, despite the container being stuffed to the gunnels with all sorts of kit. Finished off with a good shampoo and pressure wash. She looks much better for it too, but I think she could do with a respray at some point. The red is fading badly with living out side all the time, and there is a few places where a bit of rust is bubbling up. Perhaps it's just as well having no shows this year, we wouldn't have looked our best. It'll have to be done before next years show season.
  40. 0 points
    found pictures from this trials Guy Ant Commer
  41. 0 points
    We have the rolling chassis with correct wheelbase, it's had the end of the chassis trimmed off for some reason. Was converted into a farm trailer probably prior to ww2.
  42. 0 points
    I also see an Instruction book for a WOT1 on Ebay, Item number 353105280796.
  43. 0 points
    Sounds about right! There were two different shapes of sumps/bellhousings on the 4d, hard to explain without a picture!
  44. 0 points
    Hi Seamus, It’s good that you’ve had the same experience as me, and that you’ve found a solution. Of course the good thing about using cellulose thinners is its dirt cheap. I was talking to another a friend yesterday about painting and he does a lot priming at his place of work because they do blasting and he said he painted some railings once when there was snow on the ground and got a lovely finish. Think my previous idea that the warmer the weather the better was probably wrong. I’ve got a batch of small bits to do for the Scammell so I’ll try the cellulose thinner. Cheers, Richard
  45. 0 points
    Unfortunately, Pawel, I tend to classify my 'saved' motorcycle images by make and serial number rather than user...Unless I recall a photo, it's difficult. I think that 17954 'could' have fallen within C5108 or been an associated spare frame. Orchard & Madden though state that the following contract C6128 ran from 17300 to 18299 but I haven't been able to trace their sources for this. There is no doubt in my mind that all the motorcycles produced for the War Office during 1939 / 1940 were Khaki Green No.3
  46. 0 points
    Any more news on the engine, Rick? Andy
  47. 0 points
    I did take some when the car was in the garage but they came out too dark. I will push her outside and take some better ones.
  48. 0 points
    May 2020, Chassis in primer. We had the chassis sandblasted and painted around five months ago now, the sandblaster's did do a nice job, but there were a few paint runs in it that we needed to get out, so we did this and decided for extra protection to red oxide. We started off with a brush around the many rivets and hard to get to places, and then used a foam roller which gave a nice finish, when we do the top coat we will use a spray gun.
  49. 0 points
    Thanks Brian, Very useful, have saved it. regards, Richard
  50. 0 points
    By my calculations there are six surviving Peerless trucks (other than ours), half of which are armoured cars. This one in the livery of Parkyn and Peters was restored by the father of forum member (“Cornish Maid”) Mike Roberts (I think) and resides at the Wheal Martyn museum in Cornwall. The chassis was discovered under a spoil heap but as the radiator was missing a replacement was made using a pattern made by the apprentices at English China Clay. It participated in the London to Brighton HCVS run about 1988. Here are some photos of it at Wheal Martyn which I visited a few years ago.
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