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Showing most liked content since 02/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    My mate Brian built the engine up for me today, everything went well thank goodness. I Passed spanners, parts and mugs of tea 😎 Using the flywheel to turn the crank. Setting the torque wrench for the main caps. Using plasti gauge to check tolerances. Fitting pistons. Old sump used for protection while transporting then re fitting, all new core plugs fitted. Hopefully this should be back in the chassis tomorrow afternoon.
  2. 1 point
    Absolutely insane Rick! Love it!
  3. 1 point
    Track return rollers shafts manufactured and bolted in place. Jon
  4. 1 point
    Thanks Lauren - appreciated Here is what I'm up against ;-)
  5. 1 point
    It's quite a posh lorry if it has two doors!
  6. 1 point
    Just a plus 1 for anyone else who finds themselves in the same sitation. Jacking one wheel up and letting it spin the the tension out will prevent a nasty bang. Then you can change back to 2wd.
  7. 1 point
    Jack up both wheels on the same axle then rotate one wheel the other one should turn or you will hear some noise.
  8. 1 point
    I always went for the jacking of one wheel when trying to dis engage 4x4 if it did not release on its own, and as said the amount of torque stored is huge, so be a bit careful not to let your arm get dragged in between the tyre and road,
  9. 1 point
    And would surely invalidate your warranty.
  10. 1 point
    There were variations in the nuts for halftracks, IHC using a slightly different style to White etc. They were an all metal locking nut and have been reproduced in the US in the last year or so. Look on G503. Nylocks weren't in use at that time but fibrelocs were. Similar in design but using a fibre insert, better resistance to heat! Fibrelocs were used by the UK and US during the war.
  11. 1 point
    There's always Mr. Bean's solution:
  12. 1 point
    I have it written down somewhere, if i cant find it i'll have to look at the tin of the last lot I bought from RR Services Also restoring an IHC M5
  13. 1 point
    I know it was a spelling mistake, but visions of troops digging in trees to winch on, hell we don't use any Kraut trees!
  14. 1 point
    this is a canadian wwii ground anchor. comes with long pines to fix it to the ground
  15. 1 point
    1 picture = 1000 words, but I’ll leave you to it now. Good luck. Chris
  16. 1 point
    I don't understand why this has not sold. Try advertising in America through Khaki Corps imports.
  17. 1 point
    Tool bin door turned out quite well. Frame now riveted on and first coat of primer applied Bit more finishing off, over the next few evenings and it'll be ready to go back on. Good sunny weather this weekend, if a tad chilly and much has been achieved. Three weeks ago I fitted the drivers side battery box, in behind the auxilary gear levers But I got it wrong and it had to come out, again, twice! First time the bolts used were too long, and although the nuts were tightened, the tray was still loose, so out it came to have shorter bolts fitted. Then I realised that the inner side panel needs to be drilled and riveted on, but the battery tray is in the way for that so it has to come out again. Another weeks delay occured as I remembered, just in time, that the indicator lamp on the outside has to go on before the inner panel. Talk about chicken and egg. I've been having a bit of a run of that sort of thing lately. Fitted replacement gaiter on the hand brake lever, then remembered that the securing nut on the bottom lever needed a split pin. This necessitated the whole floor plate lifting the get to the pin hole, and of course the gaiter had to come off to lift the plate! Anyway finally got my act together today. Shiny new indicator fitted on the out side Then inner panel, complete with the little bracket for the jack handle. Cable for the indicator is left rolled up for now, I'm not sure how long it needs to be to reach round to the junction box, which fits on the drivers seat frame. So finally, the battery tray can be fitted in peace, using the right length bolts. But then, I forgot to take a photo of it!! Feeling that I was on a roll, decided to attack the exhaust silencer. Going with the theory that a Ford Cargo one fits, I picked one up from fleebay last week. 15 mm bigger diameter, which is not a problem, but it is 250 mm longer. It would fit my timber tractor quite well, as it mounts along the chassis. But on the tanker, it mounts transversely between the front wheels. A quick trial fit today confirmed my suspicion that it would foul the off side tyre when on full right hand lock. The other issue is the pipe fittings, cargo pipe is through the centre of the silencer, Tanker one is off set to the top So as well as fitting the square flange, it needs moving to one side. The patient is prepared, and the surgeons instruments are ready. Seems wrong to be cutting up a new piece of kit, but needs must etc 250 mm sliced off the inlet end, quickly followed by a couple of hours cutting, grinding, hammering and swearing And we get to this. Flange moved to the top edge, central hole welded up, and ready to be welded back on. Ran out of time today. One minor issue, to get the internal pipes in the right place, the tail pipe stub is upside down, so a bit more cut and slice to come at the other end at the other end
  18. 1 point
    Hi Lizzie, I must have missed this post, here is a photo of the load bed of a F.V.16104 Truck, 1 ton G.S. Welding, 4 x 4, MORRIS MRA1. The description is " The plant is a 'Plant welding electric, single operator, engine driven, output 300/400 amps.' with a dropping characteristic. There are cupboards which hold the necessary items of welding kit and a portable table for use in the field. The welding generator is bolted to the floor of the vehicle with the engine radiator at the tailboard so that maximum draught can be obtained.
  19. 1 point
    Photo from another angle showing the layout of the air cylinders, in the description of the F.V.16103 in the Data Book of War Department G.S. B Vehicles dated 1960 it states that "There is in the order of 1 ft 6 in space available round the compressor" sorry about the quality of the photos
  20. 1 point
    I heard my brother say once when I had the gas axe in my hand, Give him half an hour an we willl know if he is fixing it or scrapping it. I learnt the hard way to plan be there at least an hour after using it, Ideally be on site 4 hours after using a set of cutting gear fire watching, to make sure everything is O.K. I have found a smouldering rag nowhere near the work area Two hours later.
  21. 1 point
    Once you open up the hubs, look for any bearing numbers on them.
  22. 1 point
    WW 2 1 ton trailers also stayed in use till the 90ies in the Dutch army
  23. 1 point
    Used as a Daf YA 126 trailer then, i learned that the Ben-Hur ww2 trailers got repurposed between 1954 and 1958 by Polynorm. Someone can fill in more.
  24. 1 point
    Similar Dutch Army water bowser, dated 1980, on Ebay, has different drawbar, this type of trailer not really of much interest to collectors, compared to a cargo trailer its only use is carrying water https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Water-Bowser-Military-Trailer/273044621224?hash=item3f92ba47a8:g:djUAAOSwD39abaQe
  25. 0 points
    Another project arrived at my house this week. This time a fairly light-weight worm drive Thornycroft. The wheels have CP&Co asset tags. I seem to have ended up with another red lorry. 40 of these were purchased by CP&Co from Thornycroft and were delivered between the end of 1913 and early 1914. Thirty of them were impressed by the war office so by the end of 1914 only ten remained in the Carter Paterson fleet. On the CP&Co stock take they are listed as 35cwt and the dimensions match those of a pre WWI type BT (the post WWI version appears to be bigger and heavier). I have not yet uncovered the chassis number but even if I do it may not help with identifying if in was one of the 30 transferred to military service.
  26. 0 points
    Something I have been working on for the last couple of weeks is the tailboard hinges. These are heavy ironwoirk jobs and involve welding and angle grinding, neither of which I enjoy. However, the job needs to be done. The straps replicate forgings with thick bosses at the bottom ends. I created these by turning up some bosses to weld on. Poor old Myfard, always working to the limit! My welding set up, indoors this time. My welding has improved slightly but I did put down 30, 3mm rods in the course of this exercise. A wooden welding bench doesn't do the atmospheric conditions much good, hence the foggy picture! The the side pieces to take the catches. These are just bits of plate with square holes in, started on the mill and finished with a file.. Veed out and butt-jointed. Thank goodness for angle grinders and filler! The original forgings have radiused edges so these were added with a file. Filler! Works though! Now the catches. These just bolt to the uprights at the rear corners. All done, at last. Now I can get the filthy grinding dust out of my workshop. Into the paint shop. Now we can assemble the tailgate. Magneto coupling next. Steve
  27. 0 points
    If you search "Standard Beaverette kit" there are some interesting information / kit building sites e.g. :- http://panzerserra.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/beaverette-mk-iii-part-01.html https://panzerserra.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/beaverette-mk-i-mk-ii-double-building.html Standard Beaverette.MKIV.Maintenance manual:- http://www.greenmachinesurplus.com/standard-beaverettemkivmaintenance-manual-2328-p.asp
  28. 0 points
    Something else we got on with was the heat shield over the exhaust manifold. I had a rummage in my steel store this week and found a piece 21" x 9 1/4" . I wanted 20 1/2" x 9" so that was the one! A bit rusty but ok after a quick sanding. Adrian very kindly put it in his press-brake which did a wonderful job and much better than I could have managed with two pieces of wood and a hammer. Quicker too! When we looked at the manifld, we realised that there were the remains of two studs still in the holes so the next tas was to dig them out. I very carefully scraped and then centre-popped them. Successful stud removal really does depend on getting the drill down the middle. As usual, I started off with a very small drill and worked my way up to the tapping size. When I first started the dimple, I could see that it had drifted slightly off so I angled the pistol drill to move the dimple back into the centre of the stud. This was quite painstaking but well worth the effort as the tap went straight down the hole and cleaned it out nicely. Then I had to do it again! All successful. Some exhaust black to finish and Dad has fitted it back to the engine. There is a casting that fits on top of the studs to hold the shield and support the HT lead tube. I haven't got around to that one yet and there will not be the time before Brighton. The HT may be secured with a bit of wire! Steve
  29. 0 points
  30. 0 points
    we have number 57RN90 still works well and have it out the hills every winter it has 1229 miles on it and 525 hours
  31. 0 points
    I also wanted to convince myself that the 'Motorway Grade' magnetic plastic wasn't going to blow or fall off with all the bouncing around a Jeep can do. I'll probably still end up storing them inside the Jeep for longer, fast trips as I wouldn't want to loose one going to an event.
  32. 0 points
    Apologies for raking up the past; I have come late to this thread. Would that Class 50 be "Thunderer" by any chance?
  33. 0 points
    Back to working on the real thing today, even managed to play with the champ thing as I had to put it into temporary storage ready for the house move. Then on with the engine build Made a couple of guide studs to help locate the head gasket and act as a guide for lowering the head. Head safely in place. Then re fitting fuel,water pumps, starter motor, thermostat housing and manifold etc etc.
  34. 0 points
    On March 7th 2018, Jessie emerged from the garage following the winter welding work. This was the first time outdoors with the new markings, so I took the opportunity to get some photos in daylight.
  35. 0 points
  36. 0 points
    It is amazing what can be achieved using modern techniques! That spider will fit better than new I am sure. I have used my old Halifax slotter and horizontal milling machine a couple of times to make internal and external splines, not quite as precise as wire eroding but it does the job for what I need it. Wonderful job on the Thorny, not long now before it will move under its own power! Regards Marcel
  37. 0 points
    Hi everyone, 1918 just before the war ended the LK II light tank was built in Germany. In 1921, 10 of these tanks were smuggled to Sweden as agricultural tractors. Trials began in 1921 and these trials was probably the reason why Sweden had a successful tank industry in Landsverk in late 1920's and 1930's. In 1929, 5 of the tanks were upgraded with a more powerful (85 hp) Scania engine and new gearbox. Out of the 10 tanks only 4 remain, one original and complete with Benz engine - at Arsenalen Tank Museum outside Stockholm. One upgraded but empty tank in Munster (Gift from Sweden in 1992) and another two upgraded but not complete tanks in Arsenalen storage. 16 years ago I had the idea to restore one of these tanks into running condition, everyone thought I was a lunatic, but we started. Because the local regiment was closed and a new tank museum project came up, the project was put on hold for some time. In 2013 we decided to start up again and after 3 1/2 years we passed a milestone last night when the engine, gearbox, steering and final drive was running for the first time in 80 years. Next step is to put the tracks together, we are waiting for new pins, and with tracks on we can try the tank without the upper structure. Final step is to put the upper structure on the tank and we hope it will be running for the first time during the summer. Next year the tank will celebrate 100 years. On Arsenalen facebook there is a film from monday evening when everything was running. https://www.facebook.com/arsenalen.sverigesforsvarsfordonsmuseeum/ There is a blog where you can read about the project: http://blog.arsenalen.se/en/ We will give you update later on. Stefan Karlsson, Director Swedish Tank Museum
  38. 0 points
    Just a few photos of my churchill project.The model is all 3 and 6mm steel.The turret is nearing completion apart from the internal work for the radio and motors.At the present time it is the best part of 20 kg in weight.
  39. 0 points
    The same type of trailer just sold has a rear compartment door and the view of trailer expert Louis (who's friend bought this) is that this was for a generator set so that it could be accessed easily. He has a picture of a wartime chassis plate for this type of trailer and thinks they were re-plated post war but retained the low 5 digit chassis number. He feels this was a wartime chassis with a late war or early post war body (Not to add fuel to the general obsession over war/post war question!) Simon mentioned the British Army Data Book of Wheeled Vehicles including a 6kv generator on the standard 10cwt chassis used for GS, mortar and DF trailers. I believe this is that type of trailer.
  40. 0 points
    Steve, I would offer to buy it back at what you paid me for it, but I think you'd tell me where to go...
  41. 0 points
    Hello, I have the remains of the axillary on board generator mounting base on loan out of a Morris W/T box. It looks like the base frame is fitted on the wireless body floor ( very rusty) and connected to to top frame with the same type of rubber mounts used on wireless set 19 base frames. I really think that there is need for extra sliding part where the generator is fitted on and this part can then be blocked with the clamps on the frame ? Took some pictures with a chore horse generator just temporarily fitted over this frame with the top clamps fitted on to the generator frame work. Can somebody help on this problem , is there a extra mounting base in existence for a chore horse are is there a different axillary generator on board ? To my knowledge all the bigger generators to a chore horse need the extra switch panel to make it a working battery charger so I doubt that there is a bigger generator on board . The measurement on the top base are 16 1/2" wide by 21" long.
  42. 0 points
    I always look at this not as "cutting up a new part" but as buying a conveniently pre-assembled kit of parts to save a bit of time.
  43. 0 points
    I'm an ex national service man and was stationed at Prinn barracks Tripoli 1956/58. I was in the RAPC and our unit was the District Pay Office at Prinn. I recall that there was a transport unit within the barracks along with a military police unit. My interest is not in mi!itary vehicles but I have joined this because I would be interested to hear from anyone still around who may have been stationed at Prinn or even any surviving ex RAPC members who may have served there. I think I have some photos of the barracks which may contain sight of some vehicles if anyone is interested I will post these on your website. I look forward to any contact
  44. 0 points
    The back axle is still fitted with the complete worm-drive so that makes it a better start than either of my Dennis projects. My good friend Mick had what appears to be a "new old stock" radiator in his garage and it appears to be the perfect shape and size despite not having the Thornycroft badge. CP & Co vehicles often had a CP & Co badge in place of the makers radiator badge. So the engine, gearbox and steering box are the major components on the shopping list to make this a viable restoration. I have a 1916 instruction book and illustrated parts list for the "X Type" so I am sure there were earlier instruction books. It would be nice to have them for both the pre-WWI and post-WWI Type BT so I could see if any parts were common between the two. Were all the impressed vehicles repainted eventually? I have seen a few photos of CP & Co lorries in military service but still in their original livery. There are various colours of paint remaining on the chassis but mostly it is red, green, beige and rust. I will keep you informed of markings as I find them. I expect this project will mostly be collecting (parts and information) for a few years whilst I complete the Dennis projects. Perhaps it is another "impossible" project; there is only one way to find out.
  45. 0 points
    Nerve wracking so I wanted to get it over with. I removed the rim and cleaned the black goo seal off, gave it a light blast and installed the dome glass with the new rubber seal that Roy provided. Ron.
  46. 0 points
    Nice work. like your direction indicators...
  47. 0 points
    Thanks! It is proving a bit of a challenge though. We are still on target but losing, slowly! We are thinking of the things we don't really need, like petrol tin carriers and toolboxes and perhaps we will borrow the lamps off the Dennis. We shall See! In the mean time, I have had a long weekend in Devon with the aim of delivering the last two patterns and finishing the body ready for painting. Painting is definitely on the critical path and cannot be rushed so the sooner Dad can be doing that, the better. We had previously fitted the crossmembers and the floor which had all been painted previously. Now, we wanted to fit the headboard. Dad had painted the planks so they could be fitted facing the seat without worrying about access. We started off by jointing the side rails to allow the front crossmember to be fitted along with the corner posts. I had allowed too much length on the front kerb rail so that was trimmed using the trusty chop-saw, a Christmas present from Dad a couple of years ago. This is a fearsome tool but wonderful to use. Dropped into the rebate to check the fit. The front plank was then screwed to it. Slot-headed screws of course. No Pozidrives here! Once that had been done the headboard was built up using the planks so beautifully prepared by Mark with grooves and seperate tongues. I then had a puzzle as to why I had ordered the uprights so tall. When I looked at my drawing, I realised that they were jointed into the cross pieces. The end pieces were screwed on from the back. After cutting halving joints in the ends, the top rail was trial fitted. Mark had cut it to length and it was perfect first time. I chiselled out the mortices. Final assembly, ready to fit. It is some weight and took some putting up but we did it. It was secured with the steel corner posts bolted through.
  48. 0 points
    Anyone got any bits laying around for this type of signal lamp? Ideally looking for a handle assembly. I can buy new however i would rather keep my money in the hobby. Thank you
  49. 0 points
    My Russian GAS 69 in restorian prodect
  50. 0 points
    Don't you just love it when somebody posts a nice picture....then spoils it buy sticking "proof" all over it and asking for help. Do they think people will steal their soul..........