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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/01/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I'm not taking any chances, being an auto electrician I have self insulated. Joking aside I have come out of retirement to drive artics for a supermarket company. We are gradually getting back to normal as suppliers have in many cases ramped production up by 50% and we are working round the clock but there are still plenty of retards abusing the system by stockpiling perishable food which will have rotted long before it gets used.
  2. 2 points
    This is the curse of restoration when "flying" somewhat blind. i.e., without good source-drawings or photos to study. I found when I did my TE, I did many things twice. And there was no common-cause. Sometimes poor machining on my part, or the job did not look right; or, as we discovered later, it was to foul some as-not-yet-thought-about part. My solution, as with all conundrums of this type, lies with Doctor Shepherd & Dr Neame's patent problem-solving elixir - to wit, Masterbrew.
  3. 1 point
    This is not exactly my first post on the HMVF, but a quick intro may be useful before I post some pictures of the rusty scrap that has come my way and seems to have filled my shed, the yard-area and depleted my bank balance in various ratios. Scrunt & Farthing is the name I have used in the past for cartoon art, some of the less tasteful and certainly un-funny pieces being uploaded to Traction Talk (which, if you don't know is rant-based forum for lonely steam-types, un-moderated and certainly less discerning than the HMVF). I live in Kent and completed a traction engine restoration in 2018 that took me just over 18 years. It could have been done quicker, but I find restoration projects are best discussed in pubs, over beer, tea or any other diverting task that keeps you from the job in-hand. I fully intend for this project to be managed in the same slip-shod, time-inefficient and frankly beer-fuelled way as the last. If the formula works, don't mess with it. I was on the look out for a 1920s lorry or bus, preferably on solids. I have some history in that area, but I shall save that for another day. Anyway, enough flirting. The lorry is a 1929, solid-tyred SQ2 model, with 36HP petrol engine. It has had a long hedge-based history before landing up on a lorry bound for my house. To say it is a kit of parts would be an under-statement. But, as a mate of mine said the other day..."oh well, here we go again!". We have some shuffling to do at home to make space so I think the first priority will actually be the Leyland engine. It is going to have to wait it's turn, as "HQ, Land Command" wants a new kitchen, and has hinted at an extension. But i think i can squeeze in a few evenings without it drawing too much attention. And so, what does a few quid buy you. Well firstly, thee points on your licence for driving a lorry whilst on the phone. Some more important bits. Tea diverts us as the reality sinks in. Still, it's nearly pub time, and some of the help has to go back to their carers. we are not sure what these bits are, but they look important. Plenty of work to do on this lot... The next instalment may well include a start on the engine, or the strip down chassis. S&F
  4. 1 point
    From approximately 1940 onwards the RAOC census numbers were applied in the factory where the vehicle was built, and each factory had its own unique “style”. Royal Enfield used waterslide transfers, in a font that was only used by them. As I’m rebuilding a 1942 WD/CO myself, and as I have seen many restored WD Royal Enfields with “wrong style” census numbers (and I have to admit that I’m a bit of a Rivet Counter… 😃 ), I have decided to take some action… so I made a DXF drawing of the correct font as used by Royal Enfield. (I do have an original tank that I used to measure most of the numbers, the other numbers were created on the basis of some high resolution contemporary photographs). I have been looking at having a batch of waterslide transfers made, but this isn’t cost effective. I would need to order these transfers in quantities that I will never be able to sell… Hence my idea to use low tack stencils, with the correct font. Tony Pearson at Axholmesigns has been very helpful, and Axholmesigns can now provide low tack stencils with any Royal Enfield census number in the correct font! (https://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/motor-bike) You can download a PDF file with fitting instructions through their website, so no more excuses for not using the correct font on a Royal Enfield petrol tank! 😃Anybody who’s unsure about the correct census number for his WD/CO or WD/RE can of course send me a PM... (Note: same font on the RAOC WD/C. Most WD/Cs were RASC though, and they used different styles...)REgards, Jan
  5. 1 point
    What we do to pass the time at the moment, 🙄
  6. 1 point
    Don't you need to go to work or shopping? 🙂 Andy
  7. 1 point
    Vehicles that require an MOT will be Exempt for 6 months during the Corona crisis https://www.gov.uk/guidance/coronavirus-covid-19-mots-for-cars-vans-and-motorcycles-due-from-30-march-2020?fbclid=IwAR06FK0QRjTmysnuYjkgFvAHmVolsw_Shi8Gsc_MImyN09afWge2t1-OUNc
  8. 1 point
    Sir you have my respect for what you are doing and there are to many who agree with what you and your colleagues are doing and will not express their thoughts
  9. 1 point
    Looking good, Duncan. I don't know how many of the original coach fittings you have, but there has been a nice 20's period Disturnal & Co. catalogue on ebay for a while. The price is a bit a rich, but I reckon the drawings of the items are a lot older than the catalogue date. I find these types of items interesting in that they give clues as to what things should look like. It does not seem to be a sensible time to be spending cash, though! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1929-MOTOR-OMNIBUS-BODY-FITTINGS-CATALOGUE-R-DISTURNAL-CO-WEDNESBURY-STAFFS/202932784464?hash=item2f3fbc8d50:g:~EwAAOSw5-hcAxu5 Dave (S&F)
  10. 1 point
    Really looking forward to seeing this on the road. Can't be many about. Best of luck with it. Richard
  11. 1 point
    Item number 133351879350 - what appears to be a water bowser tank for a Bedford MW.
  12. 1 point
    Hi your jeep looks a good project for you I build jeeps for a living they are not difficult to work on just get on with it this is the last one I did it went back to America a ford gpw from this to this the usmc is my last jeep for myself if you need any advice get in touch
  13. 1 point
    The general wisdom amongst those that know about these things is that gear boxes are best not stored under water. Nor so engines. Having recovered the remains of my lorry three weeks ago (as documented in a previous thrilling instalment), it has not stopped raining since. My big shed has water coming out of the ground and flooding the yard area in front. Thus, it seemed prudent to make the most of break in the weather and before pub-time move the gear box and the remains of engines into the other shed that serves as our m/c shop. The gearbox outer casing does not look too bad, but the support arms are rusted pretty severely. The first job is going to be to get the gearbox covers off and see what sort problems lay in store for us. The logic being, that if things are not too bad we can button it up with some protective lube oil spread about, and not spend too much time worrying about it until we need it. Alternatively, if things look grim we can add it to the plan to get it sorted and schedule it in accordingly There is not a lot of room to manoeuvre the forklift inside the workshop, as my bearded assistant pointed out; we have run out of shed! I have, more or less the remains of about 1.5 engines, although engine(s) would be a generous description. The plan-of-the-day was simply to get everything in the shed and thus in the dry. One of the engines still had a cylinder (head) attached and so this had to come off before it came inside. We assumed this would be a simple case of unbolting and lifting the head. Leaving aside forty odd years of corrosion it should still have moved reasonably easily but was stuck fast. After some head-scratching we reckoned the cam-followers are pressed into the alu crank housing causing the assembly to be stuck fast. A spin over and some love applied with a punch and a copper hammer and the cam followers shifted enough to allow the head to move, and eventually off completely. In the case of this engine unit, the followers appear to be pressed into the alu with clearance in the cylinder. I am not convinced this is the case with the other unit I have. You can see the state of the unit from photos. And with the thought of warm bar maids and cold beers calling, we completed this week’s adventures. Diesel has been liberally applied to all nuts that will be coming off soon. I am reluctant to use my usual technique of heat due to the proximity of alu, but we may have to revisit that in some cases. Finally, thanks to Doc for your PM and outstanding contact which I think will help this project considerably. S&F
  14. 1 point
    , nice to see the original chassis tag in the bottom pic, it needs a Very Gentle clean. its fragile alluminium, if the dvla want to inspect the jeep, they will want to see the tag and read the chassis number, they do not inspect all applications
  15. 1 point
    A little off topic, but once this is done, whats next?
  16. 1 point
    Hi, I've always loved these waggons. It was at Steam Fairs (Husband's Bosworth) in the 1970's that I first saw these and traction engines etc. alongside my first military vehicles in preservation, so it all has a lot to answer for (-: Wilkins is a Mr. William Owen Wilkins, and this is his only Patented device, so I don't think that the “Wilkins Patent Unloading Gear” refers to anything else. I have attached the Patent below. Wilkins GB108393A.pdf The Patent was still very new ( Applied for Sept 1916, Granted August 1917), so perhaps the waggon was ordered with the intention of fitting this great new innovation, and it was subsequently discovered it was not robust enough for field use, so a tipping body was substituted instead? (Or, indeed, someone figured out a tipping body would be a lot cheaper!) Best Regards, Adrian
  17. 1 point
    I might have been wrong with this as it seems some 1945 MB's were already fitted with sprocket gear blocks too!
  18. 1 point
    Yes, looking at other photos I have it looks like most trucks of the Central Powers were also right hand drive. US built ones were also right hand drive but started swapping over in the late teens early 20's. .
  19. 1 point
    Top left under the HMVF logo there are three lines. Start of line 3 click on Home Scroll down to Community Service & all the adverts are there.
  20. 1 point
    Hi Tomo. Yes, we had the same problem! However, I made a pattern for the pivot point and also for the brake lever. John has them both at the moment so they are available for you to use. The pivot point casting, I tapped in the back rather than putting the bolts right through as they wouldn't have left room for the nut. Quality of my pattern making I am afraid! All went together OK in the end but a real pain to assemble with the seat on! Have fun! Steve
  21. 1 point
    If the tank has rust on the inside but is not rusted through, electrolysis might be a good cheap and simple way to clean it, followed by a coating if needed.
  22. 1 point
    So, to quote Maria Von Trapp “Lets start at the very beginning”: Foden 7536 was dispatched from Foden’s Elworth works in Sandbach, Cheshire on 17th October 1917, and supplied new to the War Department. To quote the build sheet it was painted “Khaki”. The body 12 ‘ long x 6’ 6” wide (inside) fixed sides which are 2’ deep. Tailpiece 2’ deep hinged from top of side boards. Sides lined with sheet iron. Platform arranged to suit Wilkins Patent Unloading Gear So, in Foden Talk this wagon was built as a rear tipping wagon, the “Wilkins Patent Unloading Gear” was the tipping mechanism for the body, which consists of a pulley, driven by flat belt from the wagon’s flywheel sited on the cab, this then drives a shaft with a worm, which inturn drives a gear which takes the drive through the rear of the cab and onto a set of bevel gears, these drive a shaft which goes across the “front” of the rear part of the chassis and then drives further sets of bevel gears which turns two large screw threads, on which two nuts run which lifts the body - but more about that another time! I have a copy of the build sheet which I will try to scan and post, but it is not the clearest. For the wagons “War Service” I assume it was used on road repair and construction. I have just brought a copy of Tim Gosling’s excellent book “British Military Trucks of World War One” and if you haven’t a copy I can’t recommend it highly enough! This is the part of the Foden’s life that I would like to research more. Following the war it was sold to Devon County Council, where it joined their “Northern Division” and was based in Barnstaple. I believe it was sold to them in 1920 and registered “ T - 8750 “ it remained in their ownership until 1950. Interestingly in 1937 Foden’s supplies a set of Pickering Governors, modifies safety valve plate and pulley for the crankshaft and I assume it was then used to drive a stone crusher. I know that in the later stages of it’s career with Devon CC it was used to provide steam to a rock drill, used in the quarry to drill into the stone before explosive charges were set as part of the quarrying process. One detail which I am not sure about, is wether or not the crank / part of the crank has been replaced, my Foden has roller bearing eccentrics fitted, this wasn’t standard on the earlier Fodens, so I can only assume that this is a later fitment - again further investigation work is required !!! At some point the tipping body was removed and a simple flat bed installed, and the rock drill was carried on the rear body. In 1950 Mr Shambrook for Newton Tracy brought the wagon (for £18 apparently) who kept it until the early 1960’s when it was sold to Paul Corin in Cornwall. He built the current body, repainted the Foden into a maroon and red livery and then sold the wagon, via the auctioneers “Sotheby’s” and the wagon was shipped to America where it joined the collection of the Upjohn Corporation of Kalamazoo - where it stayed until it was brought back to the UK in 1991 by John Collins of Northampton. It changed hands again in 1994, moving to Kent, firstly with Tony Slingsby in Hythe, then in 2000 to Colin Wheeler of Dartford - Colin did a lot of work on the wagon including repainting it into its Devon CC livery - of which more another time! Finally I was lucky enough to be offered the Foden and brought it on 17th October 2017 ... 100 years to the day that it left Foden’s works! how do you do captions for photos? 1. Black and White Foden on the day of Sotheby’s auction 1962 2. Maroon Foden at Chatham Dockyard 2012 3. Green The day I took ownership!
  23. 1 point
    Last year I acquired a spare engine It is from a much later 4x4 truck but the blocks piston , con rods and crankshaft are the same. Today I made a start on stripping it down . It always amazes me that even when parts look completely rusted together how easily nuts and bolts can come undone . When I I try to do the same with modern nuts and bolts it usually ends having to resort to cutting them off .I can only assume that the steel used is of a different quality . Hope fully the con rods will be better than the ones in my other engine
  24. 1 point
    Hi guys, Finding a cheap deac Gimpy is the holy grail. It's like trying to find a nice deac SA80. I am sorry I have not responded to the questions in this string, I don't use HMVF anymore, although I have an account. Thanks to @MatchFuzee for dropping me a message to let me know about this discussion. As the events and safety officer of the MVT I can answer some of your MVT insurance queries. We have had a radical change in the insurance for our members. It does mean that all of our members now have £5M public liability insurance when putting on a military display to the public. All that is required to get this is a valid membership card and some id to prove you are that person. Like all insurance packages there are a few things that aren't covered, these are as follows - Stallholding and selling of military items - Battle re-enactment, in terms of firing blank weapons and running through an arena in a mock battle. You are covered for all static and walking re-enactments. - The purchase of weapons, the MVT used to provide this cover for people to buy weapons, but with the growth of BB guns we were experiencing a huge rise in people joining for one year just to buy a weapon. Since we are a vehicle club and not a gun club we decided that this was not in the interests of the charitable aims of the club. Now you may say but that is extra income, however it brought with it a lot of issues, people buying BB guns for the wrong reasons, shopkeepers regularly calling us for clarification and unwanted interest with the authorities. So in short, you cannot use your MVT card to buy weapons, but you can use it to prove you have Public liability insurance when you are re-enacting. The MVT are not anti-gun however at the end of the day we are a vehicle club. I hope this answers your questions. I am unlikely to look at this string again unless anyone else flags it up to me, so if you have any further queries I would be happy to answer them directly on e-mail - safety@mvt.org.uk. Tim Hawkes
  25. 1 point
    Welcome aboard, my friend. May I congratulate you on your good taste in trucks. You are correct in your assumption, that was my Militant you saw in the CVC, and yes I own the tanker too. And, you are in the right place to read both their restoration threads. You are also in the right place for all the help, advice, encouragement, inspiration, mickey taking and just about everything else you might need to help keep you smiling when it's all gone wrong and you wonder why you bought the thing in the first place. She looks fairly solid, even if the paintwork is a little tatty. Starts and runs too which is a plus. Thing to remember is, it is all repairable. Just takes time and effort, and, of course, money, and then some more money. Then you have to put diesel in it, to take it to a show, and that takes even more money! :-D. Speaking of shows. Date for your diary. Late May bank holiday Sat 26-Sun 27 AEC Society Rally at Newark Showground. An absolute must see, even without the truck. Society stuff and many AEC specific trade stands, and an awful lot of like minded nutters enjoying beer, bar-b-cues and truck talk. More and more photos are required please. I should be able to give you some clues as to age etc if you can give me the chassis number. You'll find it stamped into the chassis just behind the front bumper. Should start 0859, then another 3 or 4 numbers. About here, just above the headlamp bracket. Very best of luck with it, and whatever you need to know just ask.
  26. 1 point
    Aiming marker pole for GPMG SF for the lamp...thats why its got the black and white paint !!! tut...Tankies :-D Sorry beat to it...LOL
  27. 1 point
    Dougy if you should change your mind about fitting the BATGUN, then there is a word of warning only fire straight ahead either of the diagonals and this happens.
  28. 1 point
    Not a trip flare holder but of same pattern in the lower twin fork. It is an aiming post used by the GPMG in the Sustained Fire (SF) role when mounted on the ground tripod. this is used in conjunction with the C2 sight that was mounted on the gun (similar to the one used by 81mm mortar) at night there was also a trilux light clamped onto the post to assist aiming and laying the gun - works on angle between gun barrel the sight and angle to post using basic geometry will give you a bearing to the target - sighted (laying off) during day then recorded for nightime ops etc. The posts usually came in pairs and were part of the SF gun kit. The pointed ends were the part that went into the ground- the trip flare had these too with a double prong at top to mount the flare pot but weren't pointed. I have a box full of these trip flare picquets as they are handy bits of kit apart from already stated route markers we use them to pin down cam nets etc. Also back to BBQs two placed each side of a fire give you a support for a roasting bar for meat etc. hope this helps Gary
  29. 0 points
    Congratulations and welcome ... I saw the videos of your vehicle. Andrew is a good guy, sure they have done a great job on the vehicle , this looks good you are lucky to be able to drive it, my cvr (t) is still a project and there are many days left so he can move on his own ... Regards...
  30. 0 points
    At this time of gloom something to brighten our day up as we have had the final event and tally up to this project we made just over £50,000 profit from the sale of the soldiers with the majority being bought by the descendants and home owners who have re erected on public space near their homes or at the homes of the war dead . The money has been divided up between the local charities and Trusts that financially supported the project at the beginning including our local branch of the Legion who get about £5k. One of event organisers for the soldiers contacted the IWM for the use of the image which was agreed and the end result I was presented with a framed copy for my efforts which I was deeply moved by . The photo was taken by the Australian Frank Hurley of Australian troops at Passchendaele who was also the photographer for the Shackleton polar expedition as a point of interest. I know several people on this forum made the journey last year to Mersea to see the soldiers in position and contacted me hence the reason for this final post to let you know the outcome.
  31. 0 points
    As one of the fortunate few who can walk across the yard to get to the workshop, I feel duty bound to share with those who cannot in these unusual times. So here's some pictures from earlier this year re-fitting the clutch. Flywheel painted, ready to receive clutch components. Grease applied to mating face. In with the clutch cone. Followed by the cover... and the spring. Winding in the spring adjuster with the new laser cut spanner. Note the grub screw and locking slot in the adjuster. Clutch release bearing, stop, lock nut, spacer and repaired retaining bolt for the drive coupling. Retaining bolt had deep gouges as a result of having been undone with a hammer and cold chisel. These have been welded up and filed back to shape. And back in position. New 3/8"BSF nuts and bolts from Trojan Special Fasteners at Birmingham. Pedal shaft and bearings ready for lifting into position... Pedal shaft in position. Thanks to my brother David for being a second pair of hands. Clutch stop and drive coupling fitted.
  32. 0 points
    just a few more one box is full of sales brochures and trials reports the gipsy photographs are in a maroon hard back folder with AUSTIN OF ENGLAND in pale blue with the company crest and two full files on the complete trials
  33. 0 points
    Evening All, I hope that you are all safe and well. I haven't done much since the last update as the sun's been out and it's time to get the garden done. I have started the polyurethane casting mould for the road wheels but I am waiting for a new cutter to arrive for the milling machine and at the moment it takes a little bit of imagination to see the finished item. Apart from that, I now have eight track return rollers with tyres on but not finished, as the polyurethane takes about eight days to go off and I can't finish machine them until they have hardened. Jon
  34. 0 points
    Three types of toolboxes have been used on the WD/C: The first type is the pre war toolbox with a key lock. The toolbox was used for storing the tool roll, and being immobilised on a battlefield because you lost your key and couldn’t repair your motorcycle must have been an unpleasant thought... The second type looked a lot like the first type, but a knurled screw, to keep the toolbox closed, replaced the key lock... (August 1940 onwards) The third type also had a knurled screw, but the lid was bigger than on the second type. (July 1941 onwards). This one was also used briefly on the very first WD/CO models.
  35. 0 points
    March 21st - Putting Faith to Bed With the coronavirus lock down only likely to become more severe and the 2020 MV events falling like dominos, we popped over to say good night to "Faith" for some time. I normally go every 6 weeks to 2 months to run the engine, exercise the clutch and brakes and turn the wheels if not being driven. The likelyhood is, Faith may not be out at all this year. The battery has been out for the winter, but with the lock down and the possibility of not being able to visit, I went over and jacked up the truck to get the weight off the wheels to avoid tyre flat spots. The truck is now perched on some axle stands, an inch or so above the container floor. Quite hard work to operate the jack at the back, where you have to be lying down to get the jack far enough under to reach the axles. The fuel tank then doesn't give much room to operate the jack. At least there's enough roof clearance in the container, even if the sides are a tight fit! The brakes were exercised and the handbrake released. The clutch was also operated and the clutch pedal was left in the disengaged position. So the mileometer seems very unlikely to clock up much, if any mileage this year. Since the two Jeeps live at home in the garage, they are easier to maintain and check over in the event of a more serious lockdown being enforced.
  36. 0 points
    Test Drive - March 18th By mid March 2020, the coronavirus had caused the cancellation of the York Crank Up, "Against the Odds" at Elvington, Blyth Battery Goes to War, Heugh Battery and Barnard Castle 1940's Weekend. Many more would likely follow. As the virus spreads, the chances of a more severe lockdown increase, so I took the opportunity to take Jessie out for a short test drive, to check for leaks after the work on the fuel and oil filters. It was only a short trip out, but enough for a test and to get some fresh air and exercise. Jessie was still in the Airbase Medical Unit markings from last year; somewhat appropriate considering what is currently going on.
  37. 0 points
    This weekend members of the French army reenactment group started work on a rare beastie indeed. We will post up pictures of the restoration as we progress. This is a mortar carrier variant of the widely used AMX family of vehicles. It has sat outside in the holding area for a while.. gathering rain water.. But now its entering the workshop for some tlc. When purchased it came in a batch of stock standard vehicles, but soon we noticed it was slightly different in build and shape from the other vtt we have, so after inspection we can see it was originally a mortar carrier, that has been modified, probably for driving instruction use by a North European country. Manufactured by Sofem in 1964, and judging by the dates on the ammunition we found under the floor, probably in some sort of military use as late as the early 90's.
  38. 0 points
    Hi Chris thanks, I normally tow my 1942 20cwt generator trailer behind it but soon it might be this bowser.
  39. 0 points
    This looks like string to attach it and is very similar to and these are from the portable filtering apparatus, described in
  40. 0 points
    Never one to pass up the chance for a double-entendre, after supper I announced I was going to "get em off". I received the usual look of pity from my family who quickly returned their attentions to variously: a missing chicken; Katy Perry's forthcoming baby and as many other distractions as they could muster to spoil my enthusiasm for taking a gearbox apart and seeing what laid under those covers. But they underestimate me. The cover studs and nuts have been liberally covered with diesel and yielded fairly easily. A couple of sharpened fox wedges either side (partly in the hope of saving the gasket) and we were in. The initial assessment is that a) at least there is oil and not water in there; b) the output shaft has about half and inch off "lift" in it so the bearing must be shot. and c) at least one of the gears (I assume to be the third speed) has got fairly "biffed" edges. We had hope to spin the shafts over but the assembly would not turn over, considering the state of the bearing this is to be expected. And so, a reasonably successful night (unless you happen to be the missing chicken). I need to get the cover off of the output shaft and look at the bearing and hope we can see if that is easily remedied. I would also like to get some basic movement in the shafts an sliding levers. If anyone has a pic of the clutch stop I would like to see them as this is all missing. S&F
  41. 0 points
    Morning Henry, I know that you ment no offence, I just wondered what you based your comments on. I have to agree with you regarding compound curves, but it's something I do not have the knowledge or experience to achieve and so I wouldn't attempt such a complex project. However apart from that, it is quite a simple construction and as you can buy all the relevant panels, all you need is the available cash. A company to try for Kubel and swim components is https://en.kdf.cz/ I have found it to be a less complex route for my purchases. Jon
  42. 0 points
    Jessie the Jeep - when did the MVT verify your vehicle as I thought they were supposed to actually see the vehicle? I know many years ago a lot was done over the phone but was told they are now stricter. You hear so many different stories that it is hard to give new restorers like Steve any proper advice. I'm just interested because I have a friend who has just got a vehicle which needs a fair bit of work and he has been asking what he should do about the DVLA
  43. 0 points
    You may not get a DVLA visit I didn't just sent all the nova and DVLA forms in and got a lot book + age related reg no
  44. 0 points
    March 1st - Fuel and Oil Filter On March 1st, I refitted the oil filter. I'd done the whole job without draining the oil from the can, just taping up the inlet and outlet connections. Like on Jessie, the hardest part was to connect it all back together, supporting it with one hand, tightening bolts with the other, all without scratching the new decals! Once it was all back together again, the engine was given another test run to check for fuel and oil leaks and all seemed well, though I'll give them both another check on the drive once the weather warms up. March 7th - 12 volt and USB Power Supply Over Saturday 7th, I made a wooden box to mount the power supply unit into and to hide away all the wiring. I decided not to fasten the box into the glove box as I didn't want to drill any holes through the glove box floor. There was a small gap between the glovebox floor and the firewall, just big enough to pass a positive supply wire up into the glove box. The earth wire is attached to one of the glove box hinge bolts. The other end of the positive wire goes through an existing cable hole in the firewall and off to the battery isolator. There's a switch on the box to cut off power to the three outputs and when it is not needed, it can be pushed back into the glove box out of the way. The cigar socket can now be used for powering a satnav if required and there's a 1AH and 2.1AH USB output for phone charging or other USB accessories. It's nice to have the voltage indicator too.
  45. 0 points
    the replacement ballast box is in very good condition with no deep rot just patches of surface rust which will get dealt with at the shot blasting/painting stage. spent a few days sorting out all the small jobs: straighten and re weld the left grab handle replace the tail gate hinge pin with a new one as original was bent removed the post war light clusters and welded up all the un wanted holes and cut out the blanking plates which blanked the original tail light holes made new tail light holders and welded them in so just need a few weeks of dry weather to get it blasted and painted then that will be the last big lump done and fitted. i'll have to take pics of the wiring and other bits as the pics i had have gone missing so will sort that out at the weekend. regards sam
  46. 0 points
    and lose value, people don't realise that chopping around the electrics might seem an expedient to them & may all be changed in what they believe is a logical fashion may turn out to be a nightmare for the next owner or anyone asked to sort out the bodgery!
  47. 0 points
    my apologies for lack of updates on the diamond mix of work, many on going projects and forgot my password for this forum so new login it is. various things have happened since the last post, i have my new seats which are superb and incredibly comfortable, managed to acquire a replacement ballast box which has saved a lot of time and £££ over making a new one. also the whole truck is know wired and working bar head lights. i'll sort more pics out soon for a better up date on the truck. regards sam
  48. 0 points
    Tell your dad that a Plumber says hello and wishes him all the best.
  49. 0 points
    Come on , The first cab 11 CMP`s where built in 1940 , Cab 12 in 1941, yours is not a prototype , so as Hanno said they where painted Khaki Green , next the C15 was the only one produced for the British army , the C15A went to the Canadians themselves . Cab 13 is anyway from 1942.
  50. 0 points
    Here in the region they did replace a restored german gun back on it's "pedestal".
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