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  2. It beggars belief that they would even consider scrapping it, I hope that someone comes along and saves it. Jon
  3. Today
  4. Any guesses on what it would cost to simply disassemble and move? 10K pound sterling? https://www.warhistoryonline.com/news/victor.html
  5. I used a little butane gas torch on quite a few Ford marked nuts and bolts to help free them before trying the spanners. Some were however, too far gone and one nut had corroded away so much there was just a helicoil of thread left screwed onto the bolt! I did manage to save some things like the steering wheel nut..... and the collar around the wheel.....
  6. hi earlymb, i did question the guys regarding the head they confirmed "> Hi Steve> Yes the head is post war on the original engine> regards Mike" I assume they themselves checked it all over prior to listing it for sale, they have between them over 70 years of knowledge, but i will check, as stated the jeep is currently in my daughters garage a short drive away until such time that the DVLA have checked it over i am not going to touch other than a bit of WD40 here and there to help the strip process.
  7. I have had a good break from things Thornycroft, whilst gathering up some paying work, but managed to push on with some chassis fittings yesterday. First job was to re align the steering box which was clearly not vertical. This was soon accomplished by shimming up one of the three mounting points with a mk 1 washer. I temporarily replaced the inner steering column and the result was pleasing. Next on the list were the angle iron plates for the seat mounting. I had a lucky find of some 2" angle in good order ( Thanks Phil.) and these were clamped up level with the frames and drilled through the original holes, before temporarily bolting up. (Proper 3/8 bolts are on their way.) Even a simple job like this has it's problems and in this case the drivers side bracket is fouling the two top holes of an unknown fitting which I dont have. I am guessing it's a pivot for the brake linkage ? and fits inside the chassis. In which case I need to relieve the angle iron to clear the nuts or bolt heads. Any wisdom on this would be much appreciated. Another 'simple' task, was to refit the scuttle brackets that came with the job. These are not J type, but Q type brackets and although basically the same, they do differ slightly and don't have the large opening that J types do. Adding this opening will mean cutting through the Thornycroft lettering ,which I am reluctant to do, so they will hafter doofer now. One of them lined up perfectly, the other was well out, and considerable filing was needed to elongate one of the holes in the casting. They were eventually brought into line, fitted with their correct wooden spacers and given a coat of Service Colour.
  8. It seems the ridge on the block between waterpump and head is approx. 8 cm wide, which indicates it has a gear- and not a chain distribution, which is a post-war feature. On the WW2 engines with a chain distribution this ridge is only about 3 cm wide, hence my question if it is the original block although I could be mistaken. Also, have a look at your inlet manifold. It seems to lack the two vacuum inlets at each outside corner. Check if it has 'A-1166' casted at the underside. If it has it could be a early manifold used only on very early production jeeps and quite sought after!
  9. Legend cheers Ron 🙂 great information. Another thing I love about the 1" bars is how chunky they are I've got litho printers hands haha so quite big the smaller ones on my 650ss have always irritated me a little. Feel great the 1" bars! Next step is to hunt a set of clamps down on with getting the mag sorted this week.
  10. Tom your 16H might well have had a 7/8"....but not the one fitted! According to Rob's site, only one contract had 7/8" bars. I don't know if any more info has come to light since, to include later contracts. Norton used Doherty controls, not Amal. The controls used went through several changes from the pre-war combination levers then the separate 'solid' levers and then a couple of variation of the economy pressed steel levers. The only part of your controls that is definitely Doherty, is your twist grip. This picture from Rob's site shows what I think is the last 'economy' version. Ron
  11. Hi Jenikov, Thanks for the message 🙂 the bar bend seems really strange on the 7/8th bars fitted like they are not Norton bars think they are actually upside down. When the right way up they will almost feel like a set of drops, was interested In the levers as I dont know what's right or wrong yet style wise hence me posting pictures think they are the right style but not sure about them. From what I've seen finding the correct set of 7/8"wd bars will be very hard to find so I'd sooner go with the 1" bars which I know are the correct bend an they used them for a longer period so hopefully theres more 1" bits out there and box all the 7/8" parts until I find the complete set. From what I've read on Robs excellent Norton side the 7/8th stuff came in at the age of my chassis started doing 7/8th I'm 44 if on remembering correctly. I'm actually doing her according to the engine which is 42' for sentimental reasons and not being able to find the raf tank numbers. My grandpa was in the 8th army ra as a gunner from 41-44' and raoc after that 8th army again. Rik showed me a picture with a hand written note saying North Africa 43' with an contract number on the tank about 500 numbers from my engines which was made 42'. Not concrete enough evidence I know but good enough for me to approximate 🙂 From what I understand 1" bars, 6" du42 headlight would have been correct for 42' and then they got the pannier racks and rails which I'm fitting onto mine for practicality as I'm gonna be going all over on her hopefully. Gonna box and keep the du142 8" headlight as once I've done my 16h I'm hoping to sell a few more of my Japanese classic bikes rd250c etc and get a second wd bike. So my dad can come with me on rides do everything together he usually follow me when I'm out on my Norton 650ss on his gsxr. + it's his 60th this year a few days before d day so would be nice to suprise him with the use of one 🙂 oh yep think I'm gonna do her scc2. brown as well. the du142 headlight was an earlier wd one wasnt it? comments advice tips opinions I'm always open to them because I really enjoy learning about all this stuff. So keep them coming Everyone.
  12. Hi .Norton Rider The handlebars you have fitted look to be correct for the age of the bike ..and i am confused why you are fitting 1 inch handle bars ? This will result in needing to change all the fittings which again look contemporary .? Military bikes went through REME workshops to repair damage and wear and in my opinion those modifications become part of the bikes history . I understand the removal of post war civilianisation and chroming as an example but not so sure if it' has to be a copy of how it came out of the factory ....particularly when we are often unclear on the factory standard.... Is there a chance your bike came out of the factory with 1 inch bars of it was a REME refit ...? Jenkinov
  13. From the book The Motor Car by David Burgess Wise. There is the running truck to the left and a blown up truck to the right near the power pole. The photo didn't seem to have a caption. Any ideas on the make of the running truck?
  14. Yesterday
  15. I had thought you had some good experience Hummermark with Detroits .I have run N55 on the 2 -valve head with elongated port holes with 17:1 compression ratio making sure the return fuel line outlet elbow runs an .80thou hole, and is easy start and runs very clean around the 190- 200 HP, estimated, cheers Andrew.
  16. Hi I have rebuilt 6 6046 twin packs with 2 valve heads and dynoed 6 engines with the n80 injectors fitted in two valve head but all engines had the later bigger port liners run fine. on a 4 hour full load run 245 hp 601 foot pound torque 2083 rpm blower pressure of 5.02 psi exhaust gas temperature 564 centigrade 1047 Fahrenheit.(each engine is nynoed on its own from a 6046) n80 and 4 valve head gave more hp and torque should have measured decibels in dyno room at full load that would be high! As you say would not want to run n80s with the original liners small surface area compared to the modern ones. the low block block does obscure the base of the new liner ports slightly but I have a military manual that says to grind the block to clear I have done this on a 6046 but made no difference on dyno results. the injector arms if you grind/machine a notch to clear injector body works fine . no external fuel rails is not a guarantee it is a 4 valve head 6-71 cylinder head casting number 5108548 has built in fuel gallery's and is a 2 valve head. there is various mods that I do to the heads for more efficient cooling on the original 2 valve heads as recommended by Detroit ,better as with n80s injectors will be getting more power =heat than the ww2 setup. if you like a visual clean exhaust then go for n65 injectors and 4 valve heads do not know what hp that will give you as have never dynoed that set up but did know of a gun carriage set up like that very clean exhaust.
  17. Looking to aquire a deactivated P17 Rifle to do a Home Guard sketch.
  18. Has anyone out there got a source of these M3 Stuart Tank mud-flap support brackets or have stamped some out? We are looking for about 1/2 dozen, Thanks and PM if you can help, cheers Andrew Rowe.
  19. Nice find! They will come back OK with a bit of persistence. Looking forward to following the story! Steve 🙂
  20. Doc

    Karrier WDS

    Clutch. The clutch required to come apart, as it was seized. Disassembly was in the following order: drive coupling, clutch stop cross bar (with leather braking ring), pedals and pedal shaft. It is clear that a previous owner did not possess a 1 3/4" Whitworth spanner; the use of a hammer and cold chisel had caused significant damage to the retaining bolt. Next the sequence was spacer collar, retaining nut, stop, operating bridle c/w bearing giving access to the large serrated spring adjusting collar. A spanner to fit this was laser cut from 6 mm steel. The parts book makes no mention of a locking grub-screw for the spring adjuster; once this had been discovered (the hard way!) things came apart readily. Spring adjuster coming out. When I started dismantling, the engine was stuck with the grub screw at 6 o-clock. Adjuster free. Cautious removal with intermediate fasteners in position. Didn't want a loud Zebedee-like "Boing!" and the spring disappearing into the darkest recesses of the workshop. The large aluminium cover fits into a register in the flywheel rim. This was tight. Going round with a hammer and hardwood block caused a crack to open up between the cover and the flywheel. Thereafter a lot of patience and WD40 and the cover was persuaded to come off. The clutch cone and centre were slid off the crankcase revealing a brand new lining material which a little red warning label advised might contain Asbestos. This lining was about 8 mm thick and bonded to the cone. It was clear that the lining was too thick as the clutch cone protruded about 1/2" from the flywheel face. Indeed this took up much of the clearance in the aluminium cover such that there was scarcely any movement available to disengage the clutch. The clutch cone was sent to Bristol Friction Services who were able to remove the existing lining and replace it with a modern non-asbestos material. They then put the cone up in a lathe and ground the lining back to the original dimensions. Clutch cone with new friction lining Fully engaged in the flywheel just a little but proud, but plenty of room for de-clutching. I had considered a leather lining. The parts list suggests leather was used, however the pattern of rivet holes in the cone, which is a little over 17" diameter, shows there was only a single joint. This would have been a large piece of leather, suggesting a man-made material was originally fitted. By way of comparison, the clutch lining in my Albion-engined Barford and Perkins D4 roller is in three pieces. Leather-lined Albion clutch cone for comparison.
  21. Are you trying to just put N80's straight into an old "Low Block " 2-valve head 671 to upgrade horsepower?. I would think you will need to be running a 4- valve head, which is "high Block" with N80's and you would have to make sure you have the correct injector rack, as from the HV- series injectors, they have a different offset than N80's , and then there is consideration about the type of liner you are using, with the different configuration on air-vent holes, as to get the right air-fuel mixture, as you are dumping more fuel into the cylinders, and also what compression ratio are you using, is this matched to the N80. In other words are you doing a complete strip and rebuild?, To give you a rough idea, a 2-valve head has exposed fuel line ( 2 ) and the 4-valve head are cast within the side of the head, so not externally seen ,Cheers Andrew.
  22. Thanks very much Ron. Gary.
  23. Hi Ron yep really am over the moon with them. They really do look great love the 44' stamp on the battery case to with the age of the chassis. Just got the mag off totally wrong one looks like it's a 35' pre war msl1-10. Good thing is 98% seems to be wd so far 🙂 Apart from the mag an bars. shes definitely had plenty of work done judging from the amount of nice grease everywhere an the insides of the engines all looking good the more I'm working on her. hopefully once I get the new mag sorted an the bits for the bars I wont be to far away from getting her fired up which is a nice suprise. Attached some pictures of the levers an throttle that's on it grip does say Doherty 🙂 sure Rik did mention pressed levers on the later ones but I might not be remembering right. 20200222_172717-01 by norton.rider, on Flickr 20200222_175920-01 by norton.rider, on Flickr 20200222_175931-01 by norton.rider, on Flickr
  24. 14mm. I use Champion L82C or Bosch W7AC in my WD OHV engines. Quite cheap on line here:- https://www.gsparkplug.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAv8PyBRDMARIsAFo4wK0Zf0Mxu443YGfW86ZU-yG5BKsWp8-TUL2YXl72dBuS5bA5RKPlDuIaApw0EALw_wcB Ron Ron
  25. Are the standard spark plugs for my WD/CO 12mm or 14mm please?
  26. Evening, The steel tow cables and the D shackles turned up, I ordered 18mm diameter tow cables which are each rated at 4.1 tons. There seems to be a number of ways in which the cables were carried on the front of the tanks in period pictures, in fact there doesn't appear to be a standard to how many cables are carried at all. Some pictures show just a single cable, some have two cables, some appear to be about 18mm in diameter, whereas some look a lot smaller and there are even some pictures showing what appears to be some carrying tow ropes. I decided, in the end, not to add extra bands around the circumference of the hub but instead to machine a series of small grooves into the surface to help the polyurethane adhere. That's all folks, Jon
  27. This is the connection to the radio outlet box (just a plain metal junction box) located on the inside of the body below the passenger all ACM 1 and 2 bodies were fitted with it as standard from MB 217543 March 1943 onward GPW's would have followed on at about the same time. Pete
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