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When was the 103rd Ruddington sale, please? There doesn't appear to be any record of the two TBUs being tested by FVRDE, just troop trials. There was at least one Berliet GCB 8 KT 4x4 submitted to FVRDE for trials.

43ER38 & 43ER39 were two Berliet TBU recovery vehicles supplied via Alvis for trials with REME. You can see the applied Alvis red triangle logo attached to 43ER39. They were part of a commercial agreement where Alvis would market Berliet trucks in some markets, and Berliet would market Alvis Stalwarts in markets which Berliet had a strong presence at the time, eg N Africa. 43ER38 was sold at the Ruddington 103rd sale Lot 1380 43ER39 was trialed in Aden 1964, returned to the UK and sold at the Ruddington 103rd sale Lot 1379 As far as I know there were only two Berliet TBU supplied.

Cooke Brothers www.cookebrothers.co.uk Gold and Walsall www.goldwassallhinges.co.uk

No, transport is a killer, I don’t think I can afford to take it anywhere!

I was directed to Phil of PMtransportphotos, who assures me this photo belongs to Ken Porter. I wonder if this was taken at FVRDE, due to the Scammell next to it. 43 ER 38, to go with 43 ER 39

Made some bonnet fittings today I have no idea what the original fixings were as the only bit left was the flange on the bulkhead and the bonnet support on the radiator . The bonnet and sides were made years ago so this is my take on what it might have been like It looks ok and is the best way I can think holding the sides in place

Bit more on the catching up. One of the features that helps confirm the identity of the donor cab is this split in the radiator cowling. Paint colour may have changed, and someone has tried fixing it with a screw, but pretty certain that is the same split. I'd rather it wasn't there. No chance of getting a new rubber, so repairing is the only option. Fortunately there are plenty of rubber repair kits available on line. A sticky, messy job, and loads of tape to hold it in place. Instructions said fully cured in 24 hors, mine got left for a week before I pulled the tape off, so well cured by then. Repair result doesn't look bad. Sets well solid, but flexible like the original. Sand it back to somewhere near the correct shape, then add a second lot to fill the odd blemish. Final trimming and sanding finishes the job With the rubber done, moved onto the rest of the radiator. Washout and repaint the fins, clean and paint the out side On the bottom half of the rad there should be a shroud, which attaches to the grille This one is off my Timber tractor. Flat aluminium sheet but with a raised ridge in the middle. Sheet is easy to get hold of, but how to replicate the ridge Then a light bulb moment. Some models of Optare bus have side panels with a very similar swage line. Get hold of a panel and simply cut to size Drill the appropriate holes and you're in business Add a coat of paint and a couple of badges to finish off

We seem to be slowing down a bit. It is getting harder and harder to motivate oneself to go out in the shed of an evening after work. Getting old I think! We did do a bit over Easter although it was a family weekend really. Dad has been painting endlessly and had finished the kerb rails and the underside of the floor planks. We set up the kerb rails and bolted them down, using bolts from stock. It did take a bit of a rummage to find them but we had just enough in the end. Then I started laying out the planks. They had been cut to length and width by our chippy, Mark, who was impressively accurate. Not a gap anywhere by the end! The planks are all grooved with loose tongues. We had to slacken off a kerb rail and use a sash clamp to pull them up but the final fit was perfect. Then it was a case of screwing them down. Exactly 100 screws, again taken from stock. It is lovely now that we have got to this stage and have everything around us. I had a trial fit of my new brake rods. Rather strangely there was insufficient room for the joint as I had taken it apart. I took out the 90° link and all was well. I have since found a photo of it done like this so that is OK. The rods are now out again for painting. Tim gave me exactly the right magneto switch for Christmas a couple of years ago so I made a start on cleaning it up. It wasn't bad and I didn't want to be too aggressive with it so I used a fibreglass scratch brush to move the tarnish. It came out quite well although the nickle is a bit tired. That is fine as there is no reason that it should not look old. I picked up some steel over the break and have made up the remaining shovel brackets using my nice new bending tool. That is proving to be a worthwhile investment. Riveting can be very satisfying. Heads polished off with the flap wheel. And back in the paint shop. Mine this time! Dad is still painting, the headboard planks and the body brackets, ready for our next get-together. We really are very close now. If only it wasn't so far away! Steve 🙂

Military tread w.t.f. Goodyear Extra-Grips are a mud tyre and double-up over rocks, XM&S type all season is what you need. Same rolling dia. as 6.50 , launch the boat with new 5.50 rims and the best 205 going (the treadway should be just at body-line). A ex-works Mich. family fit for Classic RR, some Disco and OK for Defender 90" + if you anticipate hard packed snow/ice - you can always fit studs. They will see you out on mileage. https://4x4tyres.co.uk/product/205-80-16-michelin-x-ms-244-104t-tyre/

Thanks to more people providing random manuals of military vehicles and equipment, and non military commercial vehicles, including the generous Iain @Mk3iain, I've changed this page to be a Vehicle Manuals Library. https://sites.google.com/view/alvis-stalwart-hmlc-files/vehicle-manuals-library I've got more manuals promised to me, and some that I could do with being offered to help others. But the free Library, to help others is growing. Thanks to those that have sent someone. And for those with paper copies, I'm happy to scan them in and return, or send them on to the relevant County archive. Mark

Will be flying back to the UK with my lovely wife in July for about 10 days to see her family, go to the Royal Military Tattoo, and see some friends. Anyone have any local parts guys for Soviet stuff? Will be around Lincolnshire.

Out of interest Barry, where are your tyres made? I'm still holding out for some Land Rover Lwt tyres - 6.50 x 16s with a military tread - Goodyear Xtra Grip

Yes , Comptons (Undercover Covers) are supposed to be the very best, and yes, hoods are now expensive. Over last 40 + years hood £ % inflation more than used Rovers & bricks & mortar , I don't think tentage has inflated at such top $

Cheers ruxy, got price list today from Comptons, these supply the MOD, quite a lead time if none in stock, full 88” FFR = £500.

OK , the one in Burnley - no great loss - due to great shrinkage. A new hood the canvas should be at least 2" below the cleats on the upper body-sides, and the rope will slip out but once shrunk it's OK Fully shrunk - you should not see the cleats at all. Most 'duck' is made in India and has been for donkeys, quality does vary lots. In recent years - one tilt maker has had a lot of hammer on internet circles , apparently they no longer manufacture in UK but import made up from India. No names - no pack-drill !

Seat post clamp left side . The a is on a separate line.

Keeping the cans together, I've got a couple of these that came with some WD gallon and quart oil cans. Maker is J. T. Laver of London, dated 11-43 but no WD mark or broad arrow. Are they anything specific or just a nice can? I also have some of the gallon oil cans Alistair and Richard were discussing at the start of the thread, and some of the smaller quart cans, if anyone is after one. 1950s and 1960s dates.

Thanks for the reply @jpw My mistake, I should have been more explicit. Different manufacturers place their serial numbers in different places, and can use different formats and fonts for them. When trying to identify a common triangular 'safety' frame, every little clue helps (and even then there's no guarantee that we can get it). Please could you tell me where the number was, and/or better still, show a photo of it? Thanks, Best Regards, Adrian

Thanks again Ruxy, but folk are beating me to the post regarding the links , I messaged the Guy in Burnley but listing has now gone…… if you find anymore can you just PM me, stops the arseholes jumping the gun …..

Lovely! A real boost to the enthusiasm! Steve😁

Its been a long time since I last posted as have busy making parts for a variety of early cars mainly for other people including a early Crossley car and . also have purchased a unimog so another toy to play with Today as the sun decided to shine I pulled the Crossley out of its shed This is the first time it has sat on all 6 wheels for many years After giving the floor a good sweep up I pushed it back in . It is very tight and only misses the roof trusses by less than an inch . Will try and get some of the many small jobs finished this year . I recently made the fuel tank brackets and straps so that is another job done

would love to know the exact colour and paint code of that bike - It just looks right

It's A 298155

Hi, Please delete if not allowed. I have a new, never been fitted LPG kit for a Rover V8. It comes with the adapter plates to suit twin SU Carburettors. I am open to offers or swaps for anything useful.

Hi @jpw Any sign of a serial number? That would help. Try on the frame below the saddle clamp, or the rear dropouts, or under the bottom bracket. Best Regards, Adrian