Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. sim60

    BSA WDB40

    Good evening I have a BSA wdb40 and was hoping some one would know the part number for the air filter,it has I think a fram one fitted at the moment but there are no numbers on it,all the pancake style ones I can find don't have all 3 of the same dimensions.Any help most appreciated. Thanks Simon
  3. So I have now sprayed my exhaust for the 3rd time......I have tried a new paint......let’s hope it solves the issue..... Rear carrier now painted and ready to fit this evening! Just waiting for my new clutch parts to arrive! 50 SAE has arrived on my doorstep so an oil change is on the cards before my trip! Photos to follow.......
  4. Hope you haven’t caused to much mischief! Keep us posted.......
  5. Today
  6. Is there a publication that identifies vehicle types from a DMC code. I am looking for 7DN and 7H5KY.
  7. The bombs at Debach airfield are concrete! and probably weigh a similar amount to the wartime bombs. I guess the material really depends whether you want it transportable.
  8. Known as a speedway burner or (Chuffer) this unit is used to boil water for ablutions or kitchens and was in service with the New Zealand Army in the 1980 and 90s. I have no information on this unit apart from the following: Unit main body is dug into the ground up to half the units height. Fuel tank is filled with 60 % diesel and 40 % kerosene and fits to main body via a flat iron spigot Spigot also hold a conical hat with a hole in the centre for fuel pipe to go through, hat prevents rain water going into fuel combustion chamber A 20 litre Stainless steel bucket is filled with water and placed in the large hole in the main body stove pipes are fitted opposite the fuel chamber and reach to approximately 2 metres in height, may also have conical cover fitted for bad weather. To light unit, tie a rag on to a piece of wire and soak with fuel, light it and hang it in the top of the chimney, light a second one and place it down the combustion chamber Open filler cap or vent bung on top of fuel tank, ensure copper fuel pipe id directed over splash plate in combustion chamber. Open fuel tap until fuel drizzles onto flaming rag, withdraw rag when flame is self sustaining, reduce fuel until a dripping is enough to keep unit in operation When water is boiling or hot enough for use, ladel water out of bucket, do not remove bucket from main body, top up bucket as water is taken out and this will maintain heat well enough while fuel is burning. To extinguish burner, turn fuel tap off, close vent bung or lid and remove fuel tank. Fire will continue to burn in main body until used up Safety: Do not look down combustion chamber when lighting unit (eye brows go missing) Do not leave fuel tank on unit when not in use, any fuel leak will fill main body with fuel and fumes (and when lit will launch water bucket skywards) Do not use petrol as a fuel as it is too hot Do not remove bucket and carry it around as it will be covered in soot, use a ladel to remove and refill water Clean all components weekly to remove soot layer and make unit more efficient Ensure lid is kept on water bucket to prevent fuel, dust and soot getting in the water Stove pipes and main body will be hot! Questions I have are: Does anyone know where these units were made Are they British or US design Who else used them Does anyone have any parts for them , stove pipes, buckets, lids, caps, fuel tanks
  9. Does anyone have multiple photos of a soyer stove and dimensions and sketches that would aid in building one. I know we used them in New Zealand but have never seen one in the flesh as it were, I also believe we built a home grown version the outer casing being similar to a large dairy can. From what I have seen on the internet the stove is a solid fuel burning weatherproof unit that has a removable pot. What I don't know is if once the pot is removed is the fire open to the top or is there a second skin keeping the the fire and smoke contained and directed to the smoke stack?
  10. I made the body of my SC250 from a cardboard bin (fin is an original, found in London being used as a plant planter/pot).
  11. A floating carrier:- http://ww2talk.com/index.php?threads/amphibious-bren-carrier-in-burma.36471/
  12. I wonder if there was ever any shallow wading instructions done for the loyd, can't imagine there were as they were such a poor design for keeping water out. Simple instructions: Wading, Don't Attempt.
  13. Circular Metal dustbins welded together for the main Body. A Fibre Glass Nose cone. & Metal tail fins on Fibre glass tapered tail section perhaps?...
  14. Mayb? Did think of cement but may get 2heavy..
  15. Hi,not sure yet got a mate who's ex bomb disposal who might b able to get me a casing so I could make a mould to make some, out of what,I don't know yet
  16. Good start! & are you going to make a 'Tallboy' for the second Trolley?
  17. Today (Wednesdays) is mostly a day off for me, as I go out for the day with my teenage mates (Last of the summer wine!!) But hopefully I'll get back on it later in the day.🤞 Ron
  18. Yesterday
  19. Hi, I still need one of these. Please let me know if you see or hear of one gathering dust anywhere. Thank you
  20. More Meat. Went for a piston tugging session at Stan's workshop. The omens were good as No 4 came out by hand after I found the piston was turning in the bore. The others were not so keen so Stan created an impromptu jacking device which was simple, but effective. This comprised a piece of good solid plate bolted through the con rod big end holes and then jacked up with a pair of home made turn buckles underneath. Two large nuts were tacked below the plate to prevent any 'walking'. Each piston in turn was jacked and blocked and gave little resistance once the initial reluctance was overcome. The pistons once cleaned, were in good order with free rings. Bores are good until you get above the pistons, where there is some pitting unfortunately. Further investigation continues.
  21. I managed to get another good hour tonight and was able to mark out the 2 rear side panels. I cut the first one and test fitted it and it looks good, it will probably need some fine adjusting but I was happy to cut the second one. Thanks Andrew, I am slowly working out how thing's fit in relation to each other. Peter.
  22. Nuther nice find at the Beaulieu autojumble, I have a few of these but this one is dated 1940 and will be the one used on my MW
  23. Thank you for the replies
  24. Thanks Chris I'll give Sammy a call tomorrow. All the best Merlin
  25. That’s great news! I am glad you have it sorted 🤞 I’m interested in knowing how much quieter it is tomorrow. I have a sneaking suspicion I have a similar problem.....something I will have to tackle after Normandy
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...