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Humber PIG Pictures


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Excellent stuff thank you. Keep em coming!

 

That's the third Christmas variant I have seen. I have also seen a Christmas Flying Pig converted to a desert island in the summer with palm trees & the Pig wearing sunglasses!

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Excellent stuff thank you. Keep em coming!

 

That's the third Christmas variant I have seen. I have also seen a Christmas Flying Pig converted to a desert island in the summer with palm trees & the Pig wearing sunglasses!

 

That would be worth seeing, Have you a picture of that Clive?

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Yes tell me about it!

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What joints do you have Chobham, Tracta or Birfield? But you were lucky to have a replacement.

 

It is extraordinary how inept people can be. You have to wonder is it ignorance or just couldn't care? I remember I had a Hornet that had been towed by the steering rods which bent because they are hollow, rather than used the shackles a few inches away.

 

Chobham type, went to scrap yard near Long Marsden and bought whole rear axle for £100. Removed it while snowing. Still have it, so heavy, the wheel station is enough weight on its own.

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so heavy, the wheel station is enough weight on its own.

It is indeed. I had a bust shaft on a Birfield & a mangled up pinion wheel. So swapped the whole rear axle although that was missing a wheel station so had to move that from the old axle. All good fun.

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Dear Humber followers.

 

Firstly I would firstly like to thank Ex-Sapper Jim Cookson for giving me the authority to share some of his service pictures from the early sixties, whilst based in Germany.

 

His daily drive was a 'Gleaming' FFR Humber Pig in 1963 and he has told me of the pride he had it washing and painting her in the MT back in the day.

 

Also that he found the single speed Generator Humber's much more nippy and responsive that the FFR with its two speed version.

 

The blonde haired squaddie is obviously Jim in his younger years.

 

He has explained that the Humber never got stuck except for when he was towing the 1 ton trailer rammed with radio batteries, so hence he lost traction and had to wait overnight for the recovery to arrive.

 

Please enjoy these images and I will happily pass on any comments back to Jim.

 

He may be particularly pleased to hear if any of these vehicles actually survived the ranges or gas torch.

Jim 1_CT.jpg

Jim 2_CT.jpg

Jim 3_CT.jpg

Jim 4_CT.jpg

Jim 5_CT.jpg

Jim 6_CT.jpg

Jim 7_CT.jpg

Jim 9_CT.jpg

Jim 10_CT.jpg

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Thank you Wayne for sourcing these. Jim is to be congratulated in having the foresight to take decent pictures showing the ERM & with a decent camera.

 

I note that the FFR has not yet acquired its 4th antenna mount so strictly speaking may still have been a FFW. I note the fairly rare rain cover (for open windscreen) over the horn/headlight switch. I have a hunch that was on early Sankeys & not on ROFs. But not seen enough examples to be certain.

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I note the fairly rare rain cover (for open windscreen) over the horn/headlight switch. I have a hunch that was on early Sankeys & not on ROFs. But not seen enough examples to be certain.

 

My Mk II is an ROF and it has the rain cover for the dim/dip headlight switch etc if I am not mistaken.

 

It may be an added detail though as they became standard fitment?

 

Jim does not live too far from me, as he resides in Kidderminster, so once my Piggy is home and a bit more presentable I may offer him an introduction and listen to his stories :)

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Mk II you are a tease you'll get everyone confused, but you are correct it is indeed that. Yes I was forgetting yours has one of those covers. I do have a very rusty example but can't really justify fitting it.

 

If it was a post-factory mod then I suspect it is lost for all time in EMERs WV N257 Nos 1-44 (less 37) that were cancelled & destroyed circa 1968. I would dearly like to see what those 43 EMERs contained. Every WV EMER set I have examined has dutifully been devoid of these instructions. :cry:

 

Yes tart it up a bit before you show it to Jim. Perhaps later he could demonstrate to correct way to paint it for you ;)

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I note that the FFR has not yet acquired its 4th antenna mount so strictly speaking may still have been a FFW.
Silly me I was forgetting this is 1963, the 4th antenna mount was introduced from Oct 1964.
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Clive at least the eye witness information helps decipher the origins of dating photos or the correctness of the EMERS.

 

Jim has replied to me in an email and has no doubts read the thread from the link I sent him about his pictures.

 

He was told me that the Pigs were always gleaming as he slapped on the oil based DBG paint with a brush and they were then dollied up for parades and the like with the diesel rag, so they shined like a new penny! He particularly remembered the mess it made of his hands and the smell.

 

At least in the modern army he would have to wear gloves! :nut:

 

I know many people that show lots of hand painted vehicles with oil based paints and the diesel rag is widely still adopted.

 

I wonder how modern paints react to such a hand dressing?

 

All interesting stuff and I am grateful to Jim for using me as a conduit to share this. :D

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  • 1 year later...

Well this thread seems a bit quiet.

 

Took the Pig out for a test run 3 weeks ago, all fine so fill up with fuel. On leaving filing station engine sounds awful & lost power. Get home do compression test all cylinders 100 psi but #5 is 0 psi.

 

Removing the head revealed the exhaust valve seat was mobile. So new seat cut, fitted & ground in then lapped with new valve poppet. Head back on again & all ancillaries. Ran for 2 hours cooled over night. Head re-torqued & tappets adjusted.

 

Not very easy as most of my tools are now in a storage container two miles away & I had given away my garage crane. Head lifting & refitting greatly assisted by Darren (of 101 fame) & now I've got everything more or less back it was I hope.

 

This was my chance to use my exhaust tappet locking plate that you can buy on e bay to represent special tool RE23944. Seemed a good idea but I found it of no use as it allowed the tappet to rotate, I think the jaws should be parallel rather than curved. I'll post a picture sometime to save anyone else wasting their money.

 

Anyway test drive yesterday so ready for Great Dorset Steam Fair :D

 

So a picture before it gets mucky again!

 

DSC09040b.jpg

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Well this thread seems a bit quiet.

 

Took the Pig out for a test run 3 weeks ago, all fine so fill up with fuel. On leaving filing station engine sounds awful & lost power. Get home do compression test all cylinders 100 psi but #5 is 0 psi.

 

Removing the head revealed the exhaust valve seat was mobile. So new seat cut, fitted & ground in then lapped with new valve poppet. Head back on again & all ancillaries. Ran for 2 hours cooled over night. Head re-torqued & tappets adjusted.

 

Not very easy as most of my tools are now in a storage container two miles away & I had given away my garage crane. Head lifting & refitting greatly assisted by Darren (of 101 fame) & now I've got everything more or less back it was I hope.

 

This was my chance to use my exhaust tappet locking plate that you can buy on e bay to represent special tool RE23944. Seemed a good idea but I found it of no use as it allowed the tappet to rotate, I think the jaws should be parallel rather than curved. I'll post a picture sometime to save anyone else wasting their money.

 

Anyway test drive yesterday so ready for Great Dorset Steam Fair :D

 

So a picture before it gets mucky again!

 

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Looks good Clive.

 

NIgel.

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The nice thing Nigel is that it cured a long standing squeak from the driver's foot well area. I have had the floor up & the tin sheets surrounding it to no effect. So I think it was something to do with the struts that support the air filter. It would only happen when I was going along & was rather difficult to pin down where its origin lay. But quiet so far!

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This was my chance to use my exhaust tappet locking plate that you can buy on e bay to represent special tool RE23944. Seemed a good idea but I found it of no use as it allowed the tappet to rotate, I think the jaws should be parallel rather than curved. I'll post a picture sometime to save anyone else wasting their money.

 

 

 

 

Engine bay looks smart Clive!

 

I have an original RR locking tool and that has the curved relief in the jaws, although it does work, better than trying to use 3 spanners and a feeler gauge and only having 2 hands :D

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Thank you Richard, I just thought I would take the opportunity to tart things up a bit although my main concern was to get it back together & run-in to get me to GDSF. I didn't fancy the whole week in the Shorland although that gets more interest & in fact 2-3 years ago was on show adverts in magazines.

 

I thought that tool would be super & at first I thought it was brilliant but it is only the deep notches that grip at 9/16. I can't see why that width can't continue across the whole of the jaws.

 

In the end I had to use the three spanners, feeler gauge & hold the torch. I no longer have a garage light & a head torch hits the exhaust down pipe. Took nearly an hour & a lot of swearing.

 

This tool I bought a couple of years ago is a copy of the RR tool & I see in the manual it looks much the same. So perhaps I've missed the point somewhere?

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I thought that tool would be super & at first I thought it was brilliant but it is only the deep notches that grip at 9/16. I can't see why that width can't continue across the whole of the jaws.

 

 

 

Hi Clive,

I think the jaw on the locking tool is relieved so that it can be lifted off adjacent follower, when the locknut flats are not in line with flats on follower.

 

cheers Richard

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Not sure that I really understand Richard. The practical point for me was that with such a short parallel grip deep in the jaw it was not sufficient to grasp the tappet as it was done up very tightly. The only proper grip that could achieve firm anchorage was a normal 9/16 AF spanner.

 

For those trying to follow this thread, here is the repro tool & the way it should be used in the RR handbook.

 

App0394.jpg

 

App0395.jpg

 

Although now looking at the diagram have I been putting it in the wrong way round? But then I cant see how the tappet can be gripped steady.

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