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Stalwart transfer box removal


Lewis Garner

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Hello chaps, just readying ourselves for removing the engine, gearbox and transfer box out of our Stolly project. My question is, looking at the diagrams am I correct in assuming that both centre wheel stations need to be removed before it can be lifted out? Thanks

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Hello chaps, just readying ourselves for removing the engine, gearbox and transfer box out of our Stolly project. My question is, looking at the diagrams am I correct in assuming that both centre wheel stations need to be removed before it can be lifted out? Thanks

you don't need to remove the wheel stations ,just the top off the centre bevel boxes and remove the spacer which splits in two .

you can then slide the shaft out from the transfer box ,wind back the oil seals and remove the clamp things .

i'd recommend getting the correct manual .

cheers

justin

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hit a bit of a wall with the Stolly chaps, I'm having a real struggle removing the centre bevel box clamps as our transfer box is locked solid for some reason so I can't turn it to line the clamp bolts up with the inspection holes. With securing nuts removed, side upper bearing caps and the big adjuster clamps removed I assume the big cast front cover should pull off? I'm struggling to get ours to budge so that I can see what is going on in there!

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Hit a bit of a wall with the Stolly chaps, I'm having a real struggle removing the centre bevel box clamps as our transfer box is locked solid for some reason so I can't turn it to line the clamp bolts up with the inspection holes. With securing nuts removed, side upper bearing caps and the big adjuster clamps removed I assume the big cast front cover should pull off? I'm struggling to get ours to budge so that I can see what is going on in there!

 

You have all the wheels off the ground? Do you have the EMER covering this task? I advise you to get hold of them as it saves damaging anything and the drawings do explain the construction of it.

Edited by Richard Farrant
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Hello Richard, in a sense yes as we removed all of the sun gears from each hub so that we could tow it into place

 

Hi Lewis,

See if you can turn on of the driveshafts which go between bevel boxes, a big set of pipe grips might help, also, make sure transfer box in in Neutral position, the less you have to turn over the better, assume handbrake is not on or dragging.

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What a pain chap, not what you need especially after just getting her all back together!

We still haven't really got any further with ours, I have tried with a bloody great bar to turn the thing over and it won't move even the slightest amount. We even tried fitting a sun gear and towing it but simply dug a trench. The front cover definitely needs to come off to see what on earth has happened in there. Unfortunately in years gone by someone has taken the top off to inspect the damage and left the top plate off allowing water ingress. It's not easy :D

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What a pain chap, not what you need especially after just getting her all back together!

We still haven't really got any further with ours, I have tried with a bloody great bar to turn the thing over and it won't move even the slightest amount. We even tried fitting a sun gear and towing it but simply dug a trench. The front cover definitely needs to come off to see what on earth has happened in there. Unfortunately in years gone by someone has taken the top off to inspect the damage and left the top plate off allowing water ingress. It's not easy :D

Can you remove the centre wheel stations and then try and pull the centre bevel boxes out through

the hull until the shafts clear of the transfer box?

in my head it works but may not in practice .

just out of interest did you time up the planet gears in the reduction hubs

before you towed it as that could lock the wheel completely .

What about large stilsons on the propshafts in the hull?

justin

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You have to remove the transfer box first before you can remove centre bevel boxes.

On the mark 2 you can remove the centre bevel boxes before the transfer box

but you need to remove the front and rear pinion cases first.

not sure if mk 1 is different though

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On the mark 2 you can remove the centre bevel boxes before the transfer box

but you need to remove the front and rear pinion cases first.

not sure if mk 1 is different though

 

Yes you are correct, it has been about 30 years ago when I last took bevel boxes out of a Stalwart and my mind was foggy. Getting the sleeves back off the drives shafts can be difficult too if they are seized, but they need to come out before you can remove the pinions on the bevel box.

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Yes you are correct, it has been about 30 years ago when I last took bevel boxes out of a Stalwart and my mind was foggy. Getting the sleeves back off the drives shafts can be difficult too if they are seized, but they need to come out before you can remove the pinions on the bevel box.

the sleeves on mine were seized and took a bit of violence to shift them ,getting the circlips back on is even more fun.

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  • 1 month later...

Right chaps, an update. I didn't realise that the distance clamps actually turn independently as they aren't internally splined so with some tapping they knocked round and the clamp bolts could then be removed.

Unfortunately I'm really struggling to get the drive sleeves into the transfer box to slide back into the centre bevel boxes, they slide backwards and forwards easy peasy in my reconditioned bevel boxes I have to fit, unfortunately after 25 years in a field the ones on the truck aren't so easily moved!

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