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Lumpy land rover


Steve1564

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Morning

 

I have a 79 lightweight landrover series 3 was an FFR

The guy 3 years ago we bought it of cut out all the 24v and convert it to12v

 

We have tried to get it to run smoothly but failing as when you get to about 45 mph it jumps about and will not go over

 

We have tried a Webber, Solex and Zenith (which is on there now)

 

No difference !

 

So as it felt like fuel starvation put on all new hoses , pump, cleaned carb , cleaned tank , new feeder pipe.

 

Got it running then did the timing at the 6deg BTDC as in the book.

 

Still the same ! 45-48 jumping all over the place.

 

So we thought it was dragging in air somewhere

Checked all breathers renewed gaskets on the exhaust and carb side.

 

Still the same .

 

It was suggested that we go to an SU but as 3 carbs all had no effect to the problem think that would be the same .

 

It now has a new coil , electronic ignition new dizzy ,cap, leads, plugs.

 

Totally at a loss to why this is still there ?

 

Perhaps someone could shed some light or has had the same problem

 

Be much appreciated

 

Regards

Steve

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Morning

 

I have a 79 lightweight landrover series 3 was an FFR

The guy 3 years ago we bought it of cut out all the 24v and convert it to12v

 

We have tried to get it to run smoothly but failing as when you get to about 45 mph it jumps about and will not go over

 

We have tried a Webber, Solex and Zenith (which is on there now)

 

No difference !

 

So as it felt like fuel starvation put on all new hoses , pump, cleaned carb , cleaned tank , new feeder pipe.

 

Got it running then did the timing at the 6deg BTDC as in the book.

 

Still the same ! 45-48 jumping all over the place.

 

So we thought it was dragging in air somewhere

Checked all breathers renewed gaskets on the exhaust and carb side.

 

Still the same .

 

It was suggested that we go to an SU but as 3 carbs all had no effect to the problem think that would be the same .

 

It now has a new coil , electronic ignition new dizzy ,cap, leads, plugs.

 

Totally at a loss to why this is still there ?

 

Perhaps someone could shed some light or has had the same problem

 

Be much appreciated

 

Regards

Steve

 

A few issues here. You don't state the distributor - still with a DZS4A (converted) ?? if not - have the proper parts been fitted drive & adapter mount (a minefield mfor the unwary) for a Lucas 25D or 45D or Ducelier ??

 

It should be a 3mb engine (3 main bearing) Ser. No. 951 prefix & D or possibly E suffix ??

 

Has the engine , sump , head rocker cover been oversprayed with sky Blue paint & stencil on rocker cover = ABRO reconditioned ?

 

One thing - I would do is remove the front timing cover and check the chain & sprockets , you may find the inside of cover thrashed by the chain. I have found quite a few MOD repaired engines with a steel crankshaft chain sprocket , it needs to be cast iron (like a LR genuine but expensive part) - otherwise the whole lot is wrecked. The BIG chain sprocket - copies are normally marked for P or D (petrol or diesel) , normally OK (considering I once purchased a genuine big sprocket and a genuine boxed chain would not slip on the teeth ! )

 

Timing , notch on flange of Vee belt pulley on crank. Fixed pointer on timing cover bolts.

 

BIG pointer at RH = 6 degree ATDC

 

BIG pointer central = TDC , you need to aim for this both "static" and 'dynamic' , always was for 90 octane 2 stat & I still guide in from here. swo small pointers are 6 and 6 degree advanced & you will probably find best between 3 & TDC

 

----------------------

 

QUOTE.

 

6deg BTDC as in the book

 

 

wtf book ?????

Edited by ruxy
spelin
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Thank you for the reply

 

Not sure to the distributer as I did not fit it , but will find out

 

95105431A

 

Rocker cover and engine lime green all over

 

Timing marks are as you say and will tweak it between TDC and 3

 

We had a land rover series 3 book in the land rover with some small spare parts form Land rover

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Does have dual tanks but we went to one because of the problem

 

Runs at full revs standstill bit of a dead spot at the begining

 

Running will lose nearly all power on a small incline

 

Get to about 48mph and throws you about jerking (not twerking) badly

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Has it got a fuel change over tap, as I have known the cork gasket brake up and cause fuel starvation.

 

--------------------------------

 

Yes , they do dry out and suck air , the ££ place for the same gasket for Enots tap are tractor spares Land Rover etc. charge top $

 

The Weber 34ICH carb . does need clean petrol (the kit comes with a cartridge filter for just before entry) then there is a brass hex. nut for the sintered bronze filter. The kit was sold as a fuel 'economy' carb.

 

He shoud be able to look at the lift pump filter bowl & see that he is shifting petrol / pull the hose off the carb.

 

The 36IV Chinese copies seem variable on quality , the Indian manuf. PA likewise. He would be best off getting his hands on a good original or a Burlen built.

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Thank you for the reply

 

Not sure to the distributer as I did not fit it , but will find out

 

95105431A

 

Rocker cover and engine lime green all over

 

Timing marks are as you say and will tweak it between TDC and 3

 

We had a land rover series 3 book in the land rover with some small spare parts form Land rover

 

That engine was built abt 1973/74 - lime green LoL , the old chestnut - probably a ABRO recon. cartridge. Sometimes they can be dated.

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She is squirting well with hose off the carb

 

It is an original Zenith bought ex mod unused stock at Stonleigh 2 year ago and has been cleaned and rebuilt with kit

 

Just seems strange that all 3 carbs acting the same which points to something else other than a fuel problem

But does feel like fuel starvation when under load on the road

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When you have not experienced the engine running well - could be anything , defective cyl. head gasket, valve problem etc..

 

You could have a £rap set of HT wires , have you lifted the bonnet in the dark , engine running ??

 

I use a set of these , to see if I am getting a healthy spart to plugs :-

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/laser-ht-lead-ignition-spark-plug-testers-4-pack/61411?kpid=61411&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%2520Listing%2520Ads-_-Sales%2520Tracking-_-sales%2520tracking%2520url&gclid=CI_X1sH9v9MCFZQy0wodFNQM7A&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CIG0-8H9v9MCFXQw0wod1FIBRQ

 

I have a spare cap (modified with 12 volt wires set in) for FFR engines so I can use them too with 12 volt plugs .

 

You can remove a L'wt bonnet easy and go for a run in the dark to watch under load ,,

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Compression test on all cylinders are equal

 

Tried the pulling off HT lead one by one and the engine splutters but runs with one pulled

not unless they are breaking down under load !

 

Well - yes, there is some total rubbish out there new.

 

Up until the latish 1970's , the 12 volt Lucas dizzy wires c/w suppressor cap were in fact on the military part Nos. Silver coated copper - then the Unipart empire ISTR had them go NLA. If you search - you can obtain the correct stuff to make your own up.

 

With the modern petrol out there - 'some' claim the actual 12 volt dizzy fitted is not so important.

 

The common 1970's circa. 45D4 (that would be fitted to eng. time-line) was sold for all sorts inc. Mini - the range of differs is vast. I have known all sorts of wrong ones punted new for LR's esp. the Mini A Series version.

 

------

 

To be precise - it is the small No. on the body that counts - look for 41630

 

Mechanical advance 19 to 21 degree

 

Vacuum advance 4-18-12

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Well lesson learned

 

Over engineering in your head and not looking at the simplist of things

 

From the start always thought it was fuel starvation

 

Read through a few articles and found this

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125344&stc=1 Ours attachment.php?attachmentid=125345&stc=1New

 

So note to self do not overthink and stick with you first thought

 

Thank you for your advice much appreciated

 

Regards

Steve

Gasket 2.jpg

gasket 1.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Morning

 

Still had problems with the landy lurching badly under load

So got a fresh pair of eyes and hands to have a look

 

He ran though the electrics , no problems there.

 

So Back to fuel all working as should

 

Carb taken apart and cleaned , then measured the float drop . not a fraction of what it should be so adjusted to correct measurment

 

 

All back together and took it for a test run , nearly 60 mph without a judder

 

Very happy

 

 

So before over engineering a problem look at the basics first

 

3 years we have been running like this and it all boils down to what we first thought fuel starvation

Never ever did we think it would be the float in the carb

 

I hope this helps others that have had the same problem

 

All the best

Steve

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36IV floats , replacements - you need a good source, there are two or three variations of construction after the original metal ones, the rubbery black plastic ones are known to be sinkers and not floaters after a period of time & ISTR this was prior to the ethonol 5% introduction.

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