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BSA WD C10 project


Ron

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Due to popular demand......Well one guy! i'm starting a thread on my latest restoration 1940 BSA WC10. It's a 250 SV and they have the reputation of not being able to pull a sick whore off a piss pot!!

 

I already have a 1939 KC10 and I don't normally feel the need for two bikes of the same model. But there are a host of differences between the two and this latest one came along at the right price from a fellow enthusiast.

 

It must have been kept in a very damp atmosphere for years judging by the state of the engine and dynamo which both had rusted and seized bearings and oil pump.

 

The bike came with a rebored barrel and new piston and good valves and seats (but missing springs, caps and collets) so it was the bottom end that mostly needed attention, I managed to find a NOS con rod and big end and a new drive side main bearing. A friend had springs and collets for me.

 

After a strip and clean, I rebuilt the dynamo with a new bearing, brushes, brush springs and drive sprocket, and it motors fine. The distributor shaft was also badly corroded where the worm gear sits and had to be machined and a bush made to make up the difference.

 

The gearbox was in remarkably good condition and I’m just waiting for Draganfly Motorcycles to wake up from Christmas and send the new gaskets and cover nuts I ordered before Christmas. The gearbox sprocket was hooked but my new (German made) sprocket arrived today from Cornucopia. Ron

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Some parts are away for sand blasting. But I've stripped and primed the frame, Welded up any unnecessary holes and panel beat the mudguards into shape with a bit of body filler here and there. The tail piece was missing about 1 1/2" but my valve spring mate had a section of rusty guard that I was able to retrieve enough to repair it. All in red oxide primer now but it will all get several coats of 2 pack primer before Khaki green.

 

The tail lamp on these is/was a Lucas MT1130 which is a tail lamp version of pre-war side-lamps as fitted to Jags and MG's etc. and were only ever fitted to BSA and Ariel motorcycles for around the 1939/40 period and are near impossible to find. However I did find one for my other C10. But for this bike I've modified a car lamp to suit. The number plate bracket was also unique for this lamp to be mounted on.

 

This is about where I'm up to at the moment. Ron

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well Andy it's mostly been the hum drum of stripping, priming, sanding parts. However the mild weather this weekend did allow me to get quite a bit of top coating done. I also wasn't happy with my gearbox after I'd rebuilt it as the kick starter didn't want to return properly. So I've taken it apart again and awaiting a new return spring to arrive from Draganfly's.

 

I also acquired a genuine Lucas PLC5 ign/light switch off ebay and had to increase the size of the hole in my switch panel to accept it. Ron

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been back on it lately in between working on my Autocycle ('Midwifes Bike'). Most of it is painted now and one thing that always pleases me, are two complete wheels. So many individual parts coming together. Nothing more likely to warm you up on a freezing day than tyre fitting. The hubs have cup and cone bearings and the races are in good condition, so just a new set of well greased quality steel balls are installed.

 

The saddle was in a sorry state but came up ok after some canvas backing from an old webbing back pack and some new fixing strips riveted on. The frame got a clean up and repaint. Ron

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My cadmium plated fixings arrived back yesterday so I can crack on with some more assembly. Engine and gearbox are in. These little frames that is sort of hinged in the middle are great fun when it all sags in the middle and you haven't got a free hand to call for help on your mobile phone!!!!! Ron

C10 323.jpg

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The petrol tank that came with this bike is ex hand change and I guess from 1938. There are some professional looking welds and I've checked for leaks and spent a good portion of the weekend, sanding, filling spraying with 2PK primer and wet and dry paper.

 

Today I built the back end up. Ron

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The petrol tank that came with this bike is ex hand change and I guess from 1938. There are some professional looking welds and I've checked for leaks and spent a good portion of the weekend, sanding, filling spraying with 2PK primer and wet and dry paper.

 

Today I built the back end up. Ron

 

Another busy weekend ....looking good as always Ron.....:clap:

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I've put the front wheel and mudguard in and got the mudguard to line up quite nicely with the wheel after some fettling. I had to cut and weld the lower stay to shorten it by 3/8". I think it must have come from a different bike? I re-painted the join and Just waiting for the paint to dry before re-fitting it. Ron

C10 340.jpg

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I managed to get the last of the spraying done during the mild weekend just gone.

 

I have an original NOS KLG L777 plug and WD in-line suppressor connected to the coil. I've rewired so many of these WD bikes over the years that I can do it pretty well from memory! But this coil ignition version with it's PLC5 lamp/ign switch will require a refresher from a diagram.

 

I think my clutch plates will need new corks!!!???

 

Ron

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I managed to get the last of the spraying done during the mild weekend just gone.

 

I have an original NOS KLG L777 plug and WD in-line suppressor connected to the coil. I've rewired so many of these WD bikes over the years that I can do it pretty well from memory! But this coil ignition version with it's PLC5 lamp/ign switch will require a refresher from a diagram.

 

I think my clutch plates will need new corks!!!???

 

 

Ron

 

 

Looking forward to seeing you ride it up and down your lane at the start of May ......:D

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May? I should have it well run in long before that Ha Ha!!??

 

I've had a front pipe made and Armours are making some small modifications to one of their pre-war silencers for me. Ron

C10 Pipe 001.jpg

C10 Pipe 001.jpg

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Quite so Mr B. I've even been in the shed with a fan heater at my feet a woolly gloves on, which are not conducive to fitting your 3BA headlamp switch screws!!!

 

Original pictures of these are not that forth coming (I have a few) but especially helpful is this factory picture.....At least of the right side. Ron

C10 C11 001.jpg

C10 C11 001.jpg

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