restoration Bedford MWC restoration

Thanks sparky - PM sent

Busy day in the shed

1) All wheels off (I did remember that the Near Side are Left Hand Thread)

2) All Split rim nuts removed and re-fitted with plenty of copper grease (tyres not yet removed, but I will get a tyre place to do this when needed)

3) Caps on Front Axle free (Two different sizes of nut)

4) Rear half shaft retainers free (nuts did't come off but the studs came out see photo)

Another step forward...looking good! :cool2:

Busy down the shed today

Firstly new pins in gear box selector, so no longer stirring porridge

Will finish them off when gear box is all back together. Missing one layshaft bearing, anyone know what the modern equivalent SKF bearings are – see note

Bearing 1: Open Roller where the inner rollers run on a shaft , original part number SKF 1.130508, The equivalent to this is an SKF NU207ECP which appears to fit

Bearing 2: Open Roller where the inner rollers run on a shaft, original part number SKF 1.130513, on the bearing that was in the gearbox is an SKF FC120C, which is the same as HYATT OR 1206. I purchased an SKF NU207ECP which I thought would be the equivalent but the inner does not fit on the shaft, its appx 0.020” oversize (shaft is too big by this much and the case hardening is not thick enough to grind it down to fit). The OD of the inner ring of the NU207ECP I have is 37.49mm and the shaft that it is intended to run on is 38mm. What is the correct bearing replacement or is it case of getting NOS?

Back Axle off :-)

Only managed to shear one of the ‘U’ bolts which would have needed replacing anyway

Rear Springs off (none if the shackle pin retaining bolts were in place)

One big problem :-( , top leaf of Off Side Spring broken on the edge of the spring saddle. I haven’t stripped the springs so others may be cracked/broken

Richard

One big problem :-( , top leaf of Off Side Spring broken on the edge of the spring saddle. I haven’t stripped the springs so others may be cracked/broken

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Richard

Richard:I have used, and would recommend Jones Springs in Darlaston. Lots of experience and interested in older vehicles:

http://www.jones-springs.co.uk/content/about-jones-springs/

Thanks John... I have used Jones springs in the past for my 1963 FFR Rover8, they did sag a bit after a couple of years, but I do carry a lot of kit in the back of it. They did give a good service, so when I am ready I will will give Carl (Jones) a call

A little more progress...

All the nuts from one of my two spare split rim tyres are off, the other which is dated 1941 I can't get them to budge yet, not even with a 4 foot breaker bar with 3/4" drive socket. As a last resort I will take them to a truck place so they can be removed with an air tool.

SANKEY Dated 7/41

?00x16

RF

Out interest what does the RF mean, the tyre is a 10.5x16 road tyre with a nice WD mark on it

Hi RF means RUN FLAT. MICK

RF=Run Flat should have thought of this ...doh (thanks Mick)

Hubs off – look OK will have to change oil seals and the propshaft seal as this feels like it has a flat spot (probably from resting in one place for a long time).

Crown wheel and half shafts look fine (no nasties in the rear diff)

These are now back home along with the springs so I can more readily work on them. Check out brake bisector and cylinders etc. Strip down springs (and find al least one new leaf)

Are the seals a standard size or do you have to find NOS ones ?

I have lots of spare rear leaves which one is broken and can you give dims and a pic ?

Thanks Jeremy, as noted in PM's, the MWC rear springs are different to those of a MWD/MWR. The fronts are the same, I haven't checked these yet, but on first inspection they looked OK

Rear springs stripped down (loads of rust and some badly pitted) but no other broken ones which is good. I will make a propper assessment when they have been fully cleaaned.

What did surprise me is that the spacers for the spring clips were made of copper, was this standard?

Busy day at the shed (but rather fustrating)..

Wanted to get the front axle off, managed to get some of the 'U' bolts free, but two would't budge.. so decided to drop the springs off and tackle them where I could get at them more easily.

Front spring pins came out no problem, the back ones not yet.. do the back ones have splines on them like the front ones.

RF=Run Flat should have thought of this ...doh (thanks Mick)

 

Hubs off – look OK will have to change oil seals and the propshaft seal as this feels like it has a flat spot (probably from resting in one place for a long time).

 

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Crown wheel and half shafts look fine (no nasties in the rear diff)

 

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These are now back home along with the springs so I can more readily work on them. Check out brake bisector and cylinders etc. Strip down springs (and find al least one new leaf)

 

Are the seals a standard size or do you have to find NOS ones ?

Seals are standard size...as are bearings ..local bearing supplier should be able to get them for you !!!!!

Hi

Picked up the water bowser trailer today (a long long drive) using a small car transporter

It has the hand pumping and power pumping plates in the rear and the tank is not in bad shape, will have to decide which tank I end up using. The trailer will come in handy to move the bowser around so it can be worked on independently. The trailer chassis is interesting look like a cut down bit of chassis (possibly a Morris)

Hi

 

Picked up the water bowser trailer today (a long long drive) using a small car transporter

 

It has the hand pumping and power pumping plates in the rear and the tank is not in bad shape, will have to decide which tank I end up using. The trailer will come in handy to move the bowser around so it can be worked on independently. The trailer chassis is interesting look like a cut down bit of chassis (possibly a Morris)

 

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Its amazing what turns up when you look !!! :cool2:

Hi

 

Picked up the water bowser trailer today (a long long drive) using a small car transporter

 

It has the hand pumping and power pumping plates in the rear and the tank is not in bad shape, will have to decide which tank I end up using. The trailer will come in handy to move the bowser around so it can be worked on independently. The trailer chassis is interesting look like a cut down bit of chassis (possibly a Morris)

 

 

Excellent. Am sure Janet and John were also pleased to see it go to a good home.

Busy few days..

Finally got the front axle off, but still can’t get the spring shackles off. One king pin is very very stiff, left it soaking in oil and filled up with grease (both sides only had one grease nipple on them). Will see what they actually look like in due course.

Back axle nearly stripped down, just got take off the front flange that connects to the prop shaft to replace the seal (I think the bearing is OK). Brake cylinders may be salvageable with just honing the bores, but may have to be re-sleeved. The bisectors are all ok.

The inside of the brakes are painted yellow, original ?. Will have to decide soon what colour it should be

Had a further look at the springs, the one that is broken is thinner than the same on the other side. I am pondering whether to get a new set of springs made, but I can’t as yet find the spring spec, I can measure them, but don’t know what the free camber should be.

NOS gearbox bearing (off eBay) turned up this week so, I will soon be able to start the gearbox re-build

Great progress there, it's good to see that truck getting the restoration it deserves thanks for posting the pics, brings back fond memories

Looking good !........ I wish I could move my resto on this fast !!!!!:nut:

Looking good !........ I wish I could move my resto on this fast !!!!!:nut:

 

New project, plenty of time (retired), not yet broke (but heading that way) :-)

This turned up courtesy of Rory Ballard

A couple of good illustrations of the Stellar filters (I am looking for two of these)

An early MWC (Aeroscreen)

A 150 gallon trailer

Also this

which notes there is another manual which would be nice to get hold of

“Instructions for use with water tank truck and water tank trailer”

(will speak to Clive fv1609) later

On the MWC front, finally managed to get the diff drive flange nut off, so I can replace the seal, and have started to refurb the Luvax shock absorbers

Bit more progress...

The cab has come off, the top half was totally rotten...

The florr frame is fairly complete, and I think that most of it is original....

but I am not sure about the bits where the bottoms of the doors are...

and not sure how it and the front door pillar is fitted...

Also... front axle at home for refurb

Been busy this weekend...

Luvax’s ready for new bushes and painting

Dated 9/43 , 3/43, 5/43 and one unreadable

Front axle fully stripped down, King Pins bit tarnished but OK, the Near side was very stiff, but this was caused by the shims rusting solid.

The brake cylinders look the same, I thought that they were handed

Hi

Into Rubber this week (if you include tyres as well) :cool2: ...

Finally got the last rim separated after borrowing some heavy duty kit. A friend came and took off the tyres. All the tyres are 10.5x16 (three are OK, one is definitely scrap, and two more are possibly OK, so all/some of these will be looking for a new home in due course). According to my manual the tyres should be 9.00x16, but a lot of MWC’s in the pictures I have seen the tyres appear to be bigger, optical illusion ?.

Also made the rubber covers for the front and rear brake plates (the covers that allow access to the brakes).

Part numbers

1048714 – COVER, rear brake adjusting handle hole

1048692 – COVER, front/rear flange plate inspection hole

Plus the first of the 8 shock absorber arm rubber bushes

The the multi layer molds took some time to make and get the registration right, now I have these I can make a few more as required. Overall very pleased with the result

Cheers

Richard

RICHARD you seem to be well into the stripping down stage and will follow the restoration with interest just a point

in post 43 you label a picture as a MWC when in fact it is MORRIS COMMERCIAL CS 8 the bowser tank fittings are the same on both.

REGARDS WALLY

Richard,

That door beam is really a piece of art. I had to make new ones because of the woodworms that made cardboard from it. It is not a straight beam but has a certain angle. Yours looks original but straight and therefore that little curved wooden front piece towards the wing will be outside your door. You will not be able to fit the angle iron towards the bulkhead and door beam in this way. That front piece should all rest on that curved metal plate where the wing goes to and with some canvas between it. If you need some pictures I can take some if you like?

Danny

The mono pump SC3 as fitted to my MWC

Thanks Wally, most useful, at least I know what look out for and what size it is. I assume you plug it in when the engine is not running and the pully wheel on the front of the engine crank shaft is modified in some way.

Some photos of the mounting block