Jump to content

Bedford MWC restoration


64EK26

Recommended Posts

Hi

 

The power coat is BS381C 298 Olive Drab , suppled by Akzo Nobel (via Cromadex)

 

The gritblasters and powder coaters I used was A1 gritblasting in Southampton.

 

The interpretation of exactly what colour Olive drab is open to a bit of discussion (see http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article/olive-drab/4536/ ), the spray paint I am using is a bit lighter, so I will probabably go for a colour match with the chassis as I quite like the colour

 

Cheers

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Attacked the bulkhead today....

 

Chopped out most of the rotten bits...

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=129272&stc=1

 

The most difficult bit to make will be the wheel arch ...

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=129273&stc=1

 

As I am missing most of the floor panels, I will need to get some extended 'I' section as shown below (any Ideas where I can get some ?

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=129274&stc=1

 

Need to chop out a few bits from the other side befor it goes to the gritblasters (no doubt I will find a few more holes to patch)

image 7.jpg

image 2.jpg

image.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Jeremy, will be in contact shortly

 

Bit more progress....

 

Front spring on (must sort out colour asap)

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=129318&stc=1

 

and bit of cleaning of the block (primarily all the water ways, which were rather clogged up)

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=129319&stc=1

 

Starting on the hubs this week....

 

Target is a rolling chassis (hopefully braked) by Chrismas

image 2.jpg

image 3.jpg

image.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most of the work done on the drums

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=129460&stc=1

 

On the rear drums, I just had to replace one bearing and the oil seals. It took some time to get the outer bearing out as the only way to tap it out is to remove the inner bearing, then remove all the studs so you can gain access to the outer bearing, I made up a few semi-circular drifts to tap (actually al lot of BFI) to get the cone out). Luckily my local bearing supplier had an original SKEF NOS one in stock at a sensible price

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=129461&stc=1

 

One of the front hubs ideally needs its bearings changed, but I won't do this until I have found replacement ones at a sensible price. Both fronts are awaiting new oil seals befor they are re-assembles and packed with greae.

image 10.jpg

image 1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi

Just a quick update, rearranged things in the 'shed' to gain better access

59e3ac8a9ea0e_image3.thumb.jpg.858a997bde3bdb96e248874fea938763.jpg

sorting out brakes, when I got the vehicle there were no brake pipes present, I think I know where the back ones go, but not sure where the front ones go. Would be useful to have a couple of photos of pipe connections to the master cylinder and where the two front barkae pipes joun and how they get to the master cylinder.

Engine also fully stripped down, colleced a set of piston at Dallas Digout today, as well as finding a nice rear engine drain tap and other odds and sods

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, Pete Ashby said:

Thanks for posting the filter and pump photos very useful,  I need to replicate these on the D15T at some stage.

Pete

Yes nice pics. Can somebody measure the basic dimensions of the filters ? Diameter and height . Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am considering re-manufacturing the pumps and filters, for this I would need to borrow a filter and a pump. The top cap of the filter is brass and would have to be cast; the casting is a bit tricky as there are internal waterways in the topcap. The pump (I believe) is also brass, the machining of this and the internal mechanism could prove a bit difficult. I may be luck and find the pumps and filters.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On Thursday, October 19, 2017 at 5:56 AM, 64EK26 said:

I am considering re-manufacturing the pumps and filters, for this I would need to borrow a filter and a pump. The top cap of the filter is brass and would have to be cast; the casting is a bit tricky as there are internal waterways in the topcap. The pump (I believe) is also brass, the machining of this and the internal mechanism could prove a bit difficult. I may be luck and find the pumps and filters.

Maybe we can work on this together as a project. re-manufacturing in brass would be a expensive way to do it . If it's for looks only, and not a operating filter, I would machine the filter body out of aluminium, once painted, nobody will notice any difference. If you can provide me with good drawings or good detailed photos of the original filter , I will make the filters , and make two extras for you . You could make a mold from an original lid and cast the lids with a modern epoxy and finish off in a lathe or whatever

 

MW Bedfords are scarce over here, I've only ever seen three myself in 40 years , two rusted out relics beyond help and one complete nice original truck , but I know of at least 5 others . Nobody has restored one over here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Richard i have had a look through the restoration file photos for my MWR thinking there may be some photos of the front brake lines taken during the strip down but i have only found one of the master cylinder and pipe layout

54.thumb.jpg.5c8a8a4346b7319c4e1c7b978ea95b68.jpg

the other attached scan comes from one of the late production workshop manuals and gives a good idea of the layout of the brake line

img034.thumb.jpg.3eb4efdcf470be5c2040255764b6fa75.jpg

i think by the time they built your truck the hydraulic pressure switch for the brake lights would have been deleted (Chassis number 39692 stop lamp isolator switch deleted, hydraulic stop lamp switch not fitted after this chassis number) i am not sure if the spare port in the three way tee was just blanked off with a plug or you will need to find a four port tee to fit your brake light switch into

hope this helps

Nicky

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Nicky,

A mechanical switch with a tension spring attached to the brake push rod is easiest and most reliable method, I have been fitting these for years on restorations where a fluid switch was not fitted. Lucas made a very robust one and you can actually clean the contacts on them, they rarely fail  .. and are still available.

regards, Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

Thanks for the photo, and thoughts on brake lights....

There should be a 4 way, hydraulic union attached to the offside of a cross member.  I don't have this, neither can I find one (have searched but all I come up with is 3/8 UNF not 1/2 UNF).  Will try Chris Morter and Norman Aish in the morning

I do have a spare three way connector that is the same as the rear one, I could use this  but would prefer to use a 4 way and hydrauilc switch .  If I cannot get a 4 way one I will have to go down the mechanical route (Richard F , what is the lucas part number for the switch you use ?)

Had a look at the steering column today ....

All apart as the action wasn't smooth, felt like failed bearings, the one in the top of the column needs replacing as well as the one at the bottom of the box.  Someone in the past tried to change the bearing on this !!!!

59ece995d3553_image2.thumb.jpg.d29d72616c375fe0eadf8f0bf2f04e8f.jpg

The race was also mangled, looks like someone put the bearing on with a club hammer.  Hopefully I shoul be able to get replacement bearings, might have a bit of difficulty remoing the old one

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, 64EK26 said:

 If I cannot get a 4 way one I will have to go down the mechanical route (Richard F , what is the lucas part number for the switch you use ?)

 

59ece995d3553_image2.thumb.jpg.d29d72616c375fe0eadf8f0bf2f04e8f.jpg

 

Hi,

Here is a link to one of the switches I referred to, it is a pattern of a Lucas switch, very robust and little to go wrong with them. just fit a small tension spring to it and a clip around the brake rod. Position the switch close to the rod so that it get as straight a pull as possible.

https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/846-brake-switch-31281

Lucas number is 31281

cheers Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I managed to get a 4 way connector from Chris Morter, now fitted and all brakes now working

59fcc2dda0f1b_image2.thumb.jpg.60e0a5ef6cbd892c536eecb4efa23f6e.jpg

59fcc2f302556_image3.thumb.jpg.820420c6e509776fc81b2b90692e6f4b.jpg

I hope I have the piping at the front correct and that it won't interfere with anything

For the bearing on the brake pedal, I used two small needle rollers instead of the 21 (1/8" diameter) roll pins as oly 20 were fitted in mine and most of these had seen better days.

Handbrake next on list.

I have also replaced the bearing on the end of the steering colum, and got some new ball bearings for the bearing at the top of the steering column. I should get this finished next week. I will have to 'bite the bullet' soon and get some tyres. I think I will end up using Petlas, however these are a bit difficult to fit on British rims and may require shaving.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

Firstly, thanks "Matchfuze" I have seen that thread, currently concentrating on getting a running vehicle (I has to be ready for Normandy 2019)

Andy

Brake pipe off eBay: Sealey Brake Pipe Seamless Tube Cupro-Nickel 22 Gauge 5/16" x 25ft BS EN 12449

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Brake-Pipe-Seamless-Tube-Cupro-Nickel-22-Gauge-5-16-x-25ft-BS-EN-12449/142137769570?epid=1169089782&hash=item2118123e62:g:2dwAAOSw42JZFPhV

I used Cupro Nickel as it doesn't work harden as quickly as copper so it is easier to reform bends (for bends use a small pipe bending tool)

The female brake pipe nuts;   8104 FEMALE BRAKE PIPE NUTS UNF 1/2" x 20TPI FOR 5/16" 8M (they are much better than the photo shows

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8104-FEMALE-BRAKE-PIPE-NUTS-UNF-1-2-x-20TPI-FOR-5-16-8MM-FUEL-BRAKE-PIPE-x-10/360573887967?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Pipe ends flared with Sykes-Pickavent Brake pipe flarer (trying to flare these with a cheap flaring tool is a non starter)

Banjo's on rear were reused (but with new copper washers)

New 1/2" unf bleed screws for rear cylinders from PastParts

Just found out the routing at the front is not quite correct, so will re-do this

 

Hope this helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...