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Thread: It's here! (Bedford RL)

  1. #71
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    146

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Quote Originally Posted by Sean N View Post
    Tamber, you should clean and examine the brake master and slave cylinder walls carefully for pitting. It's my experience that cylinder failure on Bedfords that have sat around is typically due to corrosion of the cylinder walls rather than wear to the seals; though obviously you would replace seals while it's all apart.
    I haven't had a chance to start trying to pull the master apart, but I would be incredibly surprised if there wasn't any corrosion to the bore in it; especially considering the rusty brown gunge that was built up in the back of it. (Some corrosion is pretty much a given, with brake fluid's wonderful ability to pull moisture from the air.) I'll have to see if the machine-shop next door will bore and sleeve it, once I've gotten it apart and cleaned up.

    Likewise, I've not even started trying to get to the slave cylinders yet; though my current plan is to work through them one corner at a time, starting with the fronts, as they're the least scary-looking in the manual.

    Anyway, managed to pop the lid off the top of the reservoir and discover a black ooze that smelt vaguely like fish. Maybe, at one point, it was brake fluid...



    Slapped that lid back on, wire wheeled the rust off it all and gave it a quick coat of red primer; at least that way, it's not encrusting everything with grunge while it's sitting around. I'll have to get some pictures now it's cleaned up, and see if I can find something that looks like a part number.

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Farrant View Post
    As far as I am aware, APGA was a prefix for Clayton Dewandre part numbers. Clayton Dewandre now come under the WABCO banner (was Westinghouse Brakes) and they could well recognise this unit and provide parts.
    Well, that could be very handy; I'll have to remember that.

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  3. #72
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    In a mountain of nappies & rusty truck parts, Meon Valley, Hampshire, UK
    Posts
    787

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Tamber,
    if the machine shop cant help with the bore out and sleeve job, speak to Past Parts (in Norfolk I think, but cant remember), this is one of their specialities
    On the look-out for WW1 Napier 30cwt lorry parts, Slat Grill MB jeep parts, and anything Chevrolet G506 related

  4. #73
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    146

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    A tiny, miniscule amount of progress made on the brakes... I applied air to the outlet of the master cylinder, and tried to blow the piston out of the back after I removed the circlip. Well, it didn't come out (though plenty of foul-smelling oil did) -- it looks like there's a ridge of corrosion at the rear of the cylinder -- but it's now freed up and springs back like it should if I press it in with my thumb.

    Hooray, I guess. I've got to dig up/make a jack stand that'll take the weight of the truck, then I'll start pulling the wheel cylinder + brake shoes on each corner. I'm aiming to keep the truck as a roller throughout the process, as much as possible; so only one wheel off at a time. That way I can still move it if required; while I sort out the brake cylinders and shoes.

    Sunday's Update:

    New, pretty battery-box! Remains of the old one in the background...


    New, not-quite-so-pretty-anymore battery-box sorta welded in!


    It's not fully welded in as much as I'd like it to be, but it's solid enough that it holds the battery up; and it will do the job sufficiently until I can rebuild the rotten floor around it and it becomes fully welded in. I would've liked to have fixed more of it; but I was already at the workshop until 1900H, and didn't have much light remaining... and didn't want to leave my big yellow hulk blocking the doorway when everyone turned up in the morning. That'd get me one hell of an earbashing.

    (Especially since they'd not be able to move it... They'd have to figure out how to power up the fuel pump and the ignition coil, then figure out where the starter switch is, then figure out they'd need to bridge that with something because the switch doesn't work any more... then they'd have had to drive the whole heavy thing with no brakes all the way back to the compound, whereupon they would've run out of fuel exactly where I did, blocking the gateway into the compound. Case in point:
    )

    I did manage to drop the battery through the floor when what remained of the old battery box ceased to do its job; but the damage appears to only be cosmetic... no leaking, anyway.

    Today's Update:

    Got some electrical parts in, so set about with that for a while this afternoon.

    New positive battery lead in, routed through the cable hole in the floor and around to the new solenoid that replaces the dead starter button.



    Once I have all the wiring in, I'll make sure it's all properly protected from abrasion and the like; but it makes life easier for it to be out in the open for now. The twin brown wires on the battery side of the starter solenoid are the output from the alternator, the thinner red wire from that stud is the feed forwards to the fuse-box -- it'll terminate at one of two insulated studs that I'll use to feed the fuses; the other insulated stud will be ignition lives, connected to the battery live stud by a beefy relay that's switched by the ignition key.

    (I'll have to get the diagram drawn up, it should be a bit clearer then.)

    Started running the wires for oil pressure switch (black/red); alternator field feed (green/black), via the ignition warning light; the starter solenoid switch feed (green/red); and a nice large feed to where the new fuse and relay box will be.

    Then it really started hammering it down, and I decided I was too cold and wet to want to keep struggling with those wires as my fingers went numb; so I just draped them all off the carb and went home for some warmth.



    The drips/puddles on the floor (and inlet manifold) that you can see, aren't from the roof; but the seal around the top of the windscreen. However, there are a few places that the roof is now see-through; and inevitably, the drips will come through those just as your bare neck is placed right below them...

  5. #74
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    146

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Mini-update!



    First signs of life! Okay, it's only those lights, and the starter solenoid, but it's the start of a long journey. The engine cranks over much much better with the solenoid than it ever did with the old starter button; but I've yet to fire her up since I last parked her up last week.

    I also drained the fuel tank, and yuk Came out looking like morning pee; and stunk something unmentionable.
    Also, since I brutally mangled the drain plug removing it, I now have a grease-nipple stuck in the bottom of the fuel tank because it happened to be the same thread. It's the little things...

  6. #75
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sittingbourne Kent
    Posts
    1,320

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Love the grease nipple fitting. Improvise and overcome
    Rob
    Zero-Five-Two

    If at first you dont succeed, get a bigger hammer........... avoid the disappointment and use the big hammer in the first place

    One Militant is not enough

    1954 AEC Militant Mk1 Timber Tractor 01BP60........aka. 375 UXK

    1954 AEC Militant Mk1 Fuel Tanker 65BN57.......aka. 294 UYU

  7. #76
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    167

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    glad to see your chipping away at it and making progress. my matador restoration has slowed right down lately as I get the steam engine and the other matador ready for the rally season . but will be back on it soon.so its nice to see progress on on something I new of.

  8. #77
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    1,542

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Tamber, I've looked through my RL parts catalogues and I'm afraid I can't find a part number that I can reliably say is for your master cylinder.

    However, I do have a spare complete assembly (used), master cylinder and air pressure servo; might be some use if you're stuck for parts.

  9. #78
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    146

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Thanks for that Sean; I'll keep that offer in mind, just in case.

    I was planning to send the master cylinder off to Past Parts at the same time as the wheel cylinders, but it's probably better to send the master some time sooner; because it's going to be some time before I manage to get the wheels off to even get to the brakes. (Probably be more manageable financially, too. )

    I've managed to have all of the front offside nuts off one by one, and went to start on the other side. (Plan being to clean the threads off with a wire wheel, and make sure I could actually remove them easily when it came to jacking that corner up and removing the wheel & brakes.)

    I've twisted the old wheel-nut bar thing a good 1/8 of a turn as well as bending it. (And yes, I was aware they're left-hand thread... ) Got two of them broken loose; but the rest are incredibly tight. I resorted to desperate measures after reminding myself that my 3/4" drive impact isn't really strong enough, and managed to warp my 3/4"F-1"M adapter into another dimension by trying to use the truck's weight to loosen them off.

    (Breaker bar, adapter, socket; brace the breaker bar against the floor, and drive the truck forward... there was a lurch, followed by a clang. The breaker bar is undamaged, the socket was still on the wheel-nut, and the adapter has gone. *sigh*)

    Speaking of clangers, I've also managed to damage the oil pressure switch by connecting the wrong wire to the battery while I was hooking up a brief test. Shorted the battery to ground via the switch, which has cooked something inside the switch, and now it doesn't work.

    Gotten a new one ordered via LMS Lichfield (Thanks to the guys at ASL for finding that; even though they'd already done their best to find a switch in their system.), and I'll be more careful next time. I've also taken the opportunity to get the bits I need for Stage 2 of my Grand Rewiring ordered, as well as a nice little tachometer.

    All in all, progress is still glacial. It should hopefully speed up a little now that the weather is a little better, though. (I would like to get the cab floor patched up and the battery box fixed in properly, but since it involves access to power and a welder, it's really only something I can do on Saturday/Sunday evenings after work. Oh! And also involves not having the truck puke all its oil out of that open hole that normally holds an oil pressure switch... Part of the reason I've kept the old one.)

    I also have to fix the coolant leak at the water pump, but I'm struggling to work up the enthusiasm to attack that. Kicking myself for not pulling it out to check/replace seals while I had the radiator out; but hey, that's just how it goes.

    Just making up a list of all the stuff I need to do, hoping that when I can see the project as a list of jobs that can be attacked in isolation, it'll feel less like an insurmountable challenge. Eating an elephant one bite at a time, and all that.

  10. #79
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    1,542

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Past parts get mentioned a lot on here. While I've no doubt they do a good job, and if they reline with stainless that might be an improvement over a cylinder which is prone to rust, from what I've seen they are very expensive, and the machining and re-lining process is not without risk. Personally I wouldn't default to using them without investigating other options, particularly if tight for money. That's my preference though, your view might be different.

    Would a bit of heat help with the wheelnuts, or can you borrow a better impact gun?

  11. #80
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    146

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    I'll try a little bit of heat, though I do need to be very gentle with it; and I'll keep putting penetrating oil on whenever I can. Might still have to get my hands on a proper impact gun at some point, though.

    Completely un-relatedly, I've spotted something interesting in the WSM. Supplement #5, "BODY, TRACTOR, 3 TON, FIELD ARTILLERY, 4x4 BEDFORD"...



    I had wondered about the latch on the left-hand door



    and it definitely has the grab-handle above that door, too.



    Also, there's this nice illustration...


    ...that looks very very close...


    Although the truck has definitely been shortened, presumably by Vass when they modified it as it went into civilian life; which is probably where the doors in the side of the body have gone...

    Neat!

    And, just for giggles...
    Last edited by Tamber; 05-05-2016 at 18:05. Reason: Added further pictures...

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