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Thread: It's here! (Bedford RL)

  1. #191
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    Dec 2015
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    125

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Quote Originally Posted by retriever View Post
    I have converted all my vehicles to electronic ignition. On the bedfords I bought a 6 cylinder triumph distributor off ebay already fitted with electronic ignition about £60 you just have to fit the dog off your old distributor. worked great for years. Starts and idles better and no adjusting, uses same coil just make sure the wires go on the coil correctly. try ebay no 170830460385
    Definitely an option to consider! (I must admit, I am half-considering the heretical option of fitting a diesel, once it's on the road. We shall see. If I do, it will be a sympathetic swap, so I could put the 300 petrol back in if desired.)

    For now, though, I'm building up the little transistor ignition thing; for the sake of a few pounds' worth of parts, and some time, it's at least worth trying.

    Quote Originally Posted by radiomike7 View Post
    If using a timing light it may be worth looking up the advance characteristics as on some engines the advance starts at an engine speed below idle and you will get a false reading. Also remember to disconnect the vacuum advance diaphragm.
    Hm. That could make things a little bit awkward! Definitely learning as I go, here.

    Also, the vacuum advance is disconnected for now (and the vacuum port blocked with a gauge. I didn't have a 1/4BSP plug to hand. ); but I don't think it worked when it was previously, since the old hard-line for the advance was fairly manky and kinked... which is why I've got some new braided rubber hose to replace it with.

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  3. #192
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    1,524

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    The factory method for setting the timing is using a light. I'm pretty sure (without looking it up) that the advance curves don't start until above idle so you're OK to time using a light, though blanking the vacuum off never hurts. If you're unsure, time it static.

    You can fit a 330 diesel almost as a straight swap, and they were a factory option for civilian models. Plenty of other engines will fit, but with varying degrees of modification needed. That 300 petrol is such a lovely engine though...

  4. #193
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    North East England
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    240

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Very heavy on petrol and exhaust valves in my experience. Civy Options if I remember correctly Bedford 330/330 and the best Leyland 350 especially with a Leyland box. I skated over the Perkins R6 not one of my favourate engines, good on fuel because it was dinner time before you got them started if it was not midsummer. Take off manifold induction pipe find piece of wire and wrap a piece of rag at one end dip in diesel light then hold over induction and turn key with luck it would fire. No one ever had Ki gas.
    Last edited by john1950; 25-01-2017 at 16:05. Reason: additions

  5. #194
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    125

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Well, she runs again!

    Took it to TDC on No. 1, and marked the flywheel against the notch in the viewing window. It looks like #1TDC is about 10~15 degrees* after the U.C. marking on the flywheel.



    * (Total wild-ass guess. not measured it to find out. It's definitely after, though.)

    Distributor cap was off while I was doing this, to check that I was definitely coming up on the compression stroke for #1. (Didn't want to take the rocker-cover off and have to re-seal it.)

    Well, TDC found and marked, next step was cleaning and re-lubricating the dizzy; after-all, I had the cover off already.



    Lots of scraping and picking flakes of trash out of it, and plenty of WD40 later, it was clean; I fitted and gapped the new points... and gave it a try with only the coil lead hooked up.

    Nice enough spark from the coil, but ...SPARKS AT THE POINTS?! Apparently my condenser wasn't making good enough contact, so I checked the old points and sure enough, great big blast marks on them. Wonder if that might be partly responsible for it not running very well?

    Old Points




    Now, both the modern replacement condensers I got for this -- one that I got a while back, and one that I got along with the new points -- were physically larger than the one that originally came out; so they won't go back in without fouling the points cam.

    The way I got around this is... well, it's a bit rough.

    I filed a slot in the bottom edge of the dizzy cap to provide clearance for a wire, connected the condenser up and then wedged it between the body of the dizzy and the block to get a ground. Obviously this made good contact at the time, but slowly oxidised until it couldn't make a circuit any more, taking the condenser out of the equation... which results in destroyed points fairly quickly.

    Well, I've gone one step better, this time; I connected a wire between the body of the condenser and the screw that the condenser would originally have been retained by. This way, it'll make much better contact for longer.

    The old points, er... kinda cleaned up, but the blast marks were deep, so I had to take a lot off to get them to clean up. Don't think I'll keep hold of them for anything. Hopefully the improved condenser connection should keep the new points alive for longer.

    Anyway, back to my progress today…

    Once I found I had a nice spark from the coil, and no sparking at the points, I refitted the cap, plugs, and leads; put the fuse for the fuel-pump back in, went and got my little hand transfer pump for putting some more fuel from the jerry-can into the truck's tank...

    Only to find out the pump was no more. Apparently the internals had become discombobulated; and it was no good at transferring anything. Shame, because it was so useful up until that point. Tried siphoning fuel out of the can into the tank, and achieved nothing more than splashing petrol over myself.

    Had to resort to pulling the hose from the tank to drop it into the can, which worked for just long enough to get sufficient fuel into the carb that I could start the truck and run it for a bit.

    I still haven't checked the timing, since I need to finish marking up the flywheel, and it was pitch black by the time I finished at about 6pm. I started work on the truck today at quarter to four. (Would've started earlier, but I got suddenly lumped with waiting for an ISP tech to turn up...)

    An hour later, I'd lost enough light that I was having to work by torchlight. Finally finished up with a running truck, with near enough my whole body numb from cold and being piled up in the driver's footwell to work on the dizzy.

  6. #195
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sittingbourne Kent
    Posts
    1,270

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Aah! The joys of MV restoration
    Rob
    Zero-Five-Two

    If at first you dont succeed, get a bigger hammer........... avoid the disappointment and use the big hammer in the first place

    One Militant is not enough

    1954 AEC Militant Mk1 Timber Tractor 01BP60........aka. 375 UXK

    1954 AEC Militant Mk1 Fuel Tanker 65BN57.......aka. 294 UYU

  7. #196
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Dagenham, Essex
    Posts
    8,106

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Quote Originally Posted by Zero-Five-Two View Post
    Aah! The joys of MV restoration
    Yes - should have got an AEC instead!! 😂😂
    Neil.

    Dover Tunnel Team - entry hole plug!

    1959 AEC Militant Mk 1 6x6 GS 16-CL-49
    1973 Series 3 109" FFR 55-FM-58


    19xx UAZ 469


    First HMVF invasion of Overloon - Feb '09
    First owner of an OT-90 at W&P

  8. #197
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    125

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Rasm-frasm. Clearly, I jinxed myself. Doesn't want to start, now, and when it does start; it only runs with throttle at least halfway open, or it just ... slows... and... sputters... .... to a halt.

    Oh, and if I keep the throttle held open so it runs, eventually it scares the bejeezus out of me with an almighty bang from the tailpipe, and then usually stops anyway.

    I will get to the bottom of this. Eventually. (Deep breaths. Caaaaalm.)

    EDIT: It'll probably turn out I've kinked a fuel hose, or something; so it'll get enough fuel through to start occasionally, but not enough to run. We'll see.
    Last edited by Tamber; 27-01-2017 at 17:05.

  9. #198
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    1,524

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Quote Originally Posted by Tamber View Post
    Took it to TDC on No. 1, and marked the flywheel against the notch in the viewing window. It looks like #1TDC is about 10~15 degrees* after the U.C. marking on the flywheel. * (Total wild-ass guess. not measured it to find out. It's definitely after, though.)
    Tamber, I'm not sure I believe this. How are you determining TDC? The flywheel is held on by six bolts, so assuming the flywheel was correct originally and it's not on correctly it must be at least 60 degrees out if it's out at all. Moreover, if I remember correctly there are also two dowels, which would mean even if the dowels are the same and equally spaced, it can only be right or 180 out.


    Quote Originally Posted by Tamber View Post
    Distributor cap was off while I was doing this, to check that I was definitely coming up on the compression stroke for #1. (Didn't want to take the rocker-cover off and have to re-seal it.)
    Not wanting to teach you to suck eggs, but you can also insert a plug loosely or put a thumb over the hole while you (get a mate to) turn the engine so you can hear or feel it compressing.


    Quote Originally Posted by Tamber View Post
    Now, both the modern replacement condensers I got for this -- one that I got a while back, and one that I got along with the new points -- were physically larger than the one that originally came out; so they won't go back in without fouling the points cam.
    It's a long while since I fitted a condenser to a Delco distributor, but if I recall correctly the condenser will slide in its clamp, and if it's in the wrong position it will foul. I may be misremembering though, or that may not be the problem.


    Quote Originally Posted by Tamber View Post
    Rasm-frasm. Clearly, I jinxed myself. Doesn't want to start, now, and when it does start; it only runs with throttle at least halfway open, or it just ... slows... and... sputters... .... to a halt. Oh, and if I keep the throttle held open so it runs, eventually it scares the bejeezus out of me with an almighty bang from the tailpipe, and then usually stops anyway.
    Timing wrong ... ?

  10. #199
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    125

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Quote Originally Posted by Sean N View Post
    Tamber, I'm not sure I believe this. How are you determining TDC? The flywheel is held on by six bolts, so assuming the flywheel was correct originally and it's not on correctly it must be at least 60 degrees out if it's out at all. Moreover, if I remember correctly there are also two dowels, which would mean even if the dowels are the same and equally spaced, it can only be right or 180 out.
    I'm not sure I believe it either, to be honest! A thought had crossed my mind, actually... the timing pointer on the underside of the engine, was it offset to one side slightly -- i.e. not exactly 180° to the timing window at the top? Could it be an older engine, refurbished, and with the flywheel turned 180° to make the timing mark line up with the window in the clutch housing; or am I dreaming up nonsense?

    I determined TDC by the "see when the piston stops moving"; normally I'd do this with a piece of wire through the spark-plug hole, but since I was laying underneath the truck, turning the engine over by the flywheel, I used my little inspection camera through the spark-plug hole and watched for the piston stopping... splitting the difference between rising and descending.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sean N View Post

    Not wanting to teach you to suck eggs, but you can also insert a plug loosely or put a thumb over the hole while you (get a mate to) turn the engine so you can hear or feel it compressing.
    That'd be another good way to double-check it, definitely. In my case, I'd have to bump it round with the starter, since my arms aren't long enough to reach the plug-hole while I'm laying under the engine. (Or, alternatively, get some help. These "mate" things sound remarkably handy to have around! )


    Quote Originally Posted by Sean N View Post
    It's a long while since I fitted a condenser to a Delco distributor, but if I recall correctly the condenser will slide in its clamp, and if it's in the wrong position it will foul. I may be misremembering though, or that may not be the problem.
    To narrow it down, I tried just fitting the clamp alone; and that was getting smacked about by the points cam. I don't think I have the condenser that was on the truck when I got it, any more, but off the top of my head it had a smaller diameter.


    Quote Originally Posted by Sean N View Post
    Timing wrong ... ?
    At this point, you could probably tell me it's running backwards and it wouldn't surprise me all that much.

    I'm going to check that I don't have a fuel related malady somewhere; it'll probably turn out that all my trouble since I sorted the leaking gasket, is down to me kinking or pinching the fuel hose to the carb, or something.

    I swear, it did run last night...

  11. #200
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    Dec 2005
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    Dagenham, Essex
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    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Quote Originally Posted by Tamber View Post
    <snip>

    I determined TDC by the "see when the piston stops moving"; normally I'd do this with a piece of wire through the spark-plug hole, but since I was laying underneath the truck, turning the engine over by the flywheel, I used my little inspection camera through the spark-plug hole and watched for the piston stopping... splitting the difference between rising and descending.

    </snip>
    Piston hits TDC twice on one cycle on a Suck-Squeeze-Bang-Blow (or 4 stroke) engine. It rises to TDC on the compression stroke and then again on the exhaust stroke. Apologies if this is a lesson in extracting nutriment from ovoid objects - but you need to make sure you have it set to TDC in the first position!!
    Neil.

    Dover Tunnel Team - entry hole plug!

    1959 AEC Militant Mk 1 6x6 GS 16-CL-49
    1973 Series 3 109" FFR 55-FM-58


    19xx UAZ 469


    First HMVF invasion of Overloon - Feb '09
    First owner of an OT-90 at W&P

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