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Thread: It's here! (Bedford RL)

  1. #101
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    Dec 2015
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    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    And, continuing on from the previous post...

    In slightly better news...
    While deciding to go primer the strange square patch on the front of the truck where all the paint had peeled, I started scraping, and uncovered something. Spotted a patch of paint that looked a little too red to be primer, and then spotted some blue while I was in mid-scrape...



    It's the remnants of a flash. Red over blue would be Royal Artillery, which matches nicely with the "field artillery" fixtures and fittings that are there. But there's also some other little bits that look like remnants from perhaps an earlier marking; though there was so little there, it's hard to say what came first and what's over-painted with what.


    Bottom of a torch, perhaps?


    It would have been nice if it were in better condition, then I might be able to see more of it; but as it was, most of it was falling away in a stiff breeze, it'd curled and flaked off that badly. And, in the interests of avoiding it rusting again, I've painted as much of the bare metal as I can.

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  3. #102
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sittingbourne Kent
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    1,302

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Looking at some of your pictures, a replacement cab might not be a bad idea if you can find one. Same size holes in my tanker, but at least no one has stuffed them full of newspaper and P38, and a Militant is mainly straight panels so easily made.

    You mention "joggling" as part of your cutting and sticking routine. What do you use for this? For years I've never bothered putting an edge on my welds, just butt up then grind off the surplus and a smear of filler.

    Thinking I was being smart the other week I bought a Joggler Tool from a certain auction site, but frankly it doesn't do what it said on the tin. Does do a reasonable hole for a spot weld, but that's about it. Have I just bought some cheap junk and a better quality one would be better, or is 1.2mm plate too thick?
    Rob
    Zero-Five-Two

    If at first you dont succeed, get a bigger hammer........... avoid the disappointment and use the big hammer in the first place

    One Militant is not enough

    1954 AEC Militant Mk1 Timber Tractor 01BP60........aka. 375 UXK

    1954 AEC Militant Mk1 Fuel Tanker 65BN57.......aka. 294 UYU

  4. #103
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    Dec 2015
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    136

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Quote Originally Posted by Zero-Five-Two View Post
    a replacement cab might not be a bad idea if you can find one.
    Well, hopefully it doesn't get to that point. It's mostly good, but the bits that are bad are on their way to being properly bad. I remain, so far, optimistic that I can fix the holes. And, if not, at least I learn something along the way. Even if that's "How far can I throw my hammer when the whole cab disintegrates before my eyes."

    Quote Originally Posted by Zero-Five-Two View Post
    You mention "joggling" as part of your cutting and sticking routine. What do you use for this? For years I've never bothered putting an edge on my welds, just butt up then grind off the surplus and a smear of filler.
    Well, I might get away with not joggling some of the parts; I've usually done just that, butted them up together, very carefully tack-tack-tack'd at the edges, and then ground it 'smooth' again. But I figure that joggling the edge might give me a bit of an edge (ha!) in the battle, particularly where it might be getting a bit thin. There'll be a bit more thermal mass there, so a bit more of a fighting chance rather than chasing the gap around adding metal one side and blowing it away on the other, which is my usual experience in dealing with rusty sheet metal.

    What might help this time around, is that the metal on the old cab is also a bit thicker than the more modern stuff I'm used to poking the wire through. (Work's welders are a bit overpowered for sheet metal. They do a treat for sticking tipper bodies together, though.)

    I have a method in mind, so far; but want to try it before opening my big mouth and making more of a fool of myself than I already have. (And, if that method doesn't work, I have a potential backup method to try.)

    Quote Originally Posted by Zero-Five-Two View Post
    Thinking I was being smart the other week I bought a Joggler Tool from a certain auction site, but frankly it doesn't do what it said on the tin. Does do a reasonable hole for a spot weld, but that's about it. Have I just bought some cheap junk and a better quality one would be better, or is 1.2mm plate too thick?
    Oo-er. Yeah, 1.2mm might be a bit thick for most of the hand-held joggler tools. 1.0mm is right at the upper end of their capabilities, as far as I can tell. At least if it does a nice neat hole for plug welding, then it's not a total loss.

    We'll see how well the process goes when I start getting stuck into it. Improvisation and adaptation are the biggest parts of the game plan, such as there is one.

    I've got it easy compared to the people who start with a spring, a wheel, and a bit of twisted plate; and build a tank outwards from there.

  5. #104
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    Dec 2015
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    136

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    You ever have one of those days where you step back and say to yourself "What the hell have I done?!"


    Today was one of those days.

    Let's rewind a little bit, and start from the beginning.
    * Wibbly wobbly rewinding effect *

    Got myself a new toy; cordless grinder. This did not bode well for the truck.

    Today was meant to mostly be a recon mission; figure out where the rotten bits are, and work out a plan of attack. So on went the wire wheel, and I started whizzing off all the filler.

    Some bits turned out not to be so bad under all the filler.


    And some of the bits that were bad, didn't appear so bad after all.

    (Remember that remark. We'll be back here later.)

    However, there are definite signs of advanced rot at the back edges of the cab.


    Signs of previous repairs, too. (It's a bit hard to see, but it becomes a lot more obvious later on.)


    And, of course, the rotten cab floor.


    Naturally, I exposed the full rotten-ness of the driver's door while stripping all the body-filler; of which there was a not-inconsiderable amount. This all had to be chopped out.


    I've seen teabags with fewer holes!


    Some tin-bashing later...




    I should note, my hand-held joggler tool will just about move that 1mm, but not by enough; so that's all been joggled by hand. It's not the prettiest job, but it'll do. I don't think it's too bad for someone who has never done sheet metal work before.

    (I have an NVQ2 in fabrication & welding... platework, that is!)



    Some fettling required.

    Now, as I didn't have a long enough lead to reach all the way across the car-park to run my welder, I've given that patch panel a quick blast of primer, and left it with the other panel I have (for the roof) to deal with later; when I can either throw an extension lead over into the next unit, or tow the truck over to the workshop to do the welding.

    So! Onward and, er, downwards, really.

    Remember that bit I said didn't seem too bad, earlier? Yeah, well...

    AAAAAAAAA...


    ...AAAAAAA...


    ...AAAAAAA...


    ...RGH!

    And that's when that whole corner fell off.

    All of that fuzzy bit looks to be a repair to the structure of the cab; there's a bit of box-section, and then a patch over the top of it. None of which was painted prior to becoming sealed away, so it's all instantly rotted again. The inside of the box section feels to be full of flakes; and I'm still deciding how much more I need to chop at.

    My plan of attack for the box section, at the moment, is to wire wheel the snot out of it until I can figure out where everything's joined together and how much I'll need to remove. I'm also thinking of taking a small hole-saw to the box section to allow me to clean it out, inspect how bad it is on the inside, and also apply Waxoyl to the inside of it. (I have a pressure-can with a spray hose for reaching in and splattering the sludge everywhere...)

  6. #105
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sittingbourne Kent
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    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    You can get counselling for that kind of traumatic experience :
    Rob
    Zero-Five-Two

    If at first you dont succeed, get a bigger hammer........... avoid the disappointment and use the big hammer in the first place

    One Militant is not enough

    1954 AEC Militant Mk1 Timber Tractor 01BP60........aka. 375 UXK

    1954 AEC Militant Mk1 Fuel Tanker 65BN57.......aka. 294 UYU

  7. #106
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    136

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)







    I have to keep telling myself over and over "I'll get there eventually. Take it one battle at a time, it's a long war"

  8. #107
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sittingbourne Kent
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    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Smashing video, works better than photos when describing how it is. The real entertainent is in the subtitles, you have to watch it a couple of times to make sure you read them right.
    Rob
    Zero-Five-Two

    If at first you dont succeed, get a bigger hammer........... avoid the disappointment and use the big hammer in the first place

    One Militant is not enough

    1954 AEC Militant Mk1 Timber Tractor 01BP60........aka. 375 UXK

    1954 AEC Militant Mk1 Fuel Tanker 65BN57.......aka. 294 UYU

  9. #108
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Back in Surrey
    Age
    62
    Posts
    603

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Smashing video,
    Ditto that! keep us informed!

  10. #109
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    136

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Quote Originally Posted by Zero-Five-Two View Post
    The real entertainent is in the subtitles, you have to watch it a couple of times to make sure you read them right.
    Dearie me, the auto-generated subtitles really have struggled a little bit, haven't they?
    I'll have to see if I can fix that, if it's a problem for anyone?

    EDIT: Subtitles added and sorted.
    Last edited by Tamber; 22-07-2016 at 22:14.

  11. #110
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    136

    Default Re: It's here! (Bedford RL)

    Bit of a brain-dump to start with...
    Not had much in the way of motivation to work on the truck recently, aside from some fiddling about with the replacement fuse-box. Changed my mind on some implementation details, which is making some things a little harder before they get easier; but no matter, it's only money and time.

    On an only-mildly interesting note, I've been doing a little fiddling around with the brake servo.
    Some prodding and poking has ascertained that the valve that allows air into the booster cylinder is a bit stuck; which makes sense... seeing as that end of the servo is the most corroded.

    I've tried gently -- and not so gently -- to see if I can drive the pin out of all those arms at that end, and get some better access; but it doesn't look like it's going to be coming out with any measure of reasonable force.

    Next step involved pulling the circlip, washer, little plastic plug, and spring that holds the valve closed while at rest. Or, rather, pulling the circlip, trying to lift the washer; and having the rest of it undergo RUD right past my ear. I've got all but one of the bits, at least.

    Interestingly, the plunger of the valve appears to be hollow right through. I'll have to do a little more exploring and try to figure out what's supposed to be going on there.

    Now, for the interesting part...

    While trying to find out some more info about the servo, I stumbled across a post on this very board from 2013, whereupon someone was trying to sell a very familiar-looking type of servo, apparently for a TK/MJ.

    Bedford TK/MJ brake servo for sale

    So this has me wondering whether the reason that it doesn't look like diagrams given in the RL service manual, is because it was -- at some point in the truck's life -- swapped out for a later model servo for some reason.
    (Had it on the shelf, perhaps? )

    I've also ordered a rebuild/reseal kit that's supposedly for the master cylinder I have; and I'll tear into that when the kit arrives. Hoping that it doesn't have any corrosion in the bore, or -- if it does -- that it'll clean up with a very gentle honing.

    Other news

    Water pump: is still at the machine shop. I'm getting a little bit grumpy about not having it; but they're trying to fit it in around their other jobs, it's understandably a low priority, not helped by it being an awkward size shaft in the rebuild kit, and thus involves boring out to dimension rather than drilling and reaming.

    Such is life. Half considering making a blanking plate with the appropriate fittings to fit an electric water pump; but that then results in needing an electric fan, etc. All doable, but I'd rather not, at this point; it adds yet more complexity and points of failure. Still, it's a back-up plan in case the mechanical pump still leaks after I did the rebuild...

    Fuel tank: surprisingly clean inside. Looks to have been galvanised from the factory, and there are only a few very small patches that look even slightly iffy; I have had to shake some lumps of lead out of it, which I suspect are from a past repair that I can see evidence of on the outside.

    Planning to strip the outside down with a wire wheel, and repaint it, because it looks a bit tatty. No major problem, really. Biggest issue -- and it's only a little one, at that -- is likely to be sorting out the filler cap. I suspect I should be able to just (there's that magic word again) get it re-keyed, and reassemble the filler in the reverse order of removal.

    (I'll also need to re-make the tank straps, but that shouldn't be a major problem. Just a chain of minor ones, knowing how these things go. )

    Fuse panel:


    There are a few more wires in there, I think, than the last time I showed it.


    So many more, that I had to change my plan on how I was going to route them.


    Still needs a little untangling, but getting more managable.


    Of course, I didn't really want to splice a great big bundle of wires going into the fuse/relay box; so a connector was needed. I'm rather partial to TE's products; since I use a lot of them at work.

    These are 18-position connectors out of the MCP 1.5 series; each terminal pin is rated up to 24 amps (supposedly!), so should be ample, as everything's fused at 15A in my fuse-box, aside from a couple of 5A fuses.


    Ta-da! Only a couple more wires (that I know are missing) need to go into that, the ones that connect to the indicators. I also have two extra spare positions just in case I need to run anything else that I forgot about. Any more than that, and I'll use the other set of connectors. (Needed 1, so bought 2; just in case!)

    I also decided to mount it all in a waterproof enclosure; which does fit, just about. Might have to relocate it all to the back wall of the cab, where it's more accessible for when fuses blow. On the bright side, I've not actually started the permanent wiring for everything; everything's all still flexible. (*cough* bodged *cough*)

    "When you're flying by the seat of your pants, nothing sounds more official than a Plan B"

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