restoration Mk1 Militant Tanker

What paint are you using for the DBG Rob? Looks excellent!!

I think it's made by Lechlers, standard commercial 2 pack from our local paint factors. Does go on well, easy to get a good shine

I think it's made by Lechlers, standard commercial 2 pack from our local paint factors. Does go on well, easy to get a good shine

Many thanks Rob :-)

Instant Karma this weekend!!

Made new battery box for the near side set of batteries.

Bit of an improvement on the old one.

Stepped back to admire the handy work and...............

Knocked the tin of paint over

Best part of a full can of Bondaprimer all over the deck. Not best pleased

At least the floor won't go rusty for a while :)

Thought I ought to do a bit of an update, and a few photos of the recent progress. Started on the bottom half of the cab frame last weekend. Back in ones time in the R.E. De-rust and patch paint was a popular phrase when tarting up the plant. Tanker is more like De-rust and see what's left.

Good coating of Bondaprimer over the cleaned off bits. The unpainted bits just behind the wheel are where some replacement metal is required, in fact, there is quite a bit of metal missing from just below here.

There was also a fair bit of new metal required on the engine side panels

Bottom edge rotted away on this piece, so clamped it to workmate to hold it in place and cut off rotten bit

Make new section

Clamp on and weld in

Grind off worst of the weld spatter

And cover with a smear of filler to hide the evidence :-D

Usual thick coat of red oxide

This panel wasn't so bad, just a bit crinkly along the edge

Same again, weld in new bit and cover with filler

And you can't see the join

Next up Dashboard mounting frame, bit chewed up one side, I'll let you know how we do

Got stuck into the passengers side rebuild on Saturday. First move refit the floor section. Bit of trepidation here, I need the floor section to hold the side frame in the right place, but the floor was rebuilt from a combination measurements taken from the tanker, then checked with the timber tractor and finally a bit of guesswork on what looked good.

Fortunately it dropped straight in. Even the bolt holes lined up.

Given some rigidity to the side frame it was then easy to measure and weld in the new metal for the step and wheel arch.

This side is now ready for the skin panels to be fitted, but the engine is getting the once over first, while all the covers are off it will be easier to get round it. New hoses, belts and a respray.

Lovely Jubbly Rob . Shes gonna be the star of the show when she hits the road ! I know I shall be taking many photos when i get the pleasure of seeing her :-D

Thanks Andy, but there's a long way to go, yet. Good boost to the enthusiasm seeing new bits going on.

Looks brilliant Rob glad to see shiny parts and panels going back together hopefully I should have mine on the road about the same time as yours ? Would be nice when your estimated end date for the restoration ?

No target date for finish, it'll be done when it's done. Obviously it will go quicker in the better weather, but that said show season starts in 3 weeks (1st Apr) so we'll be out with the timber tractor, and that needs a couple of bits seeing to before then. Also, as I can't seem to buy the winning lottery ticket, wage earning work has to be done now and again

You guys that are stripping and refitting panels from Militant cab frames, when you refit are you using seam sealer in the joint at all?

When they were built at Southall they used what appears to be glaziers putty to seal the joints. I have found several bits of it that were still soft and sticky when I took it apart. Going back together with modern silicone sealer

You keep ticking the jobs off

When they were built at Southall they used what appears to be glaziers putty to seal the joints. I have found several bits of it that were still soft and sticky when I took it apart. Going back together with modern silicone sealer

Don't use silicone, it emits acetic acid as it cures, which will promote corrosion in your nice new metal. Polysulphide is much better.

When they were built at Southall they used what appears to be glaziers putty to seal the joints. I have found several bits of it that were still soft and sticky when I took it apart. Going back together with modern silicone sealer

I asked because I didn't see anything in the photos. The AEC stuf is probably an early seam sealer. I'd use a modern seam sealer or Sikaflex or similar; silicone sealant won't stay flexible or adhesive and if it separates, hardens or splits it'll form a moisture trap and encourage corrosion again.

I knew what I meant to say. Need proper adhesive not just gasket sealer. I've been using some stuff called Tigerseal doesn't do a bad job

That sounds like the stuff. It's not so much the adhesive qualities though it does need to stick to the substrate; it's that it fills the gap, doesn't shrink, doesn't harden, crack or go brittle, which would allow moisture penetration and entrapment.

Often feel we have massive advantages over the 1950s builders due to advances in materials. Mind you, they had the benefit of a factory to build the things...

I knew what I meant to say. Need proper adhesive not just gasket sealer. I've been using some stuff called Tigerseal doesn't do a bad job

Tigerseal: now that's good stuff. Just don't use it on anything you might want to take apart again anytime soon...

Superb work on your resto so far; looking forward to seeing pics when it's finished.

Not much "interesting" progress this week, but quality stuff none the less.

Bits of engine cover, stripped, repaired, and repainted

Off Side Panel

Rear Cover and Intake

Off Side in Red Oxide

Rear in Oxide

Dashboard Holder

Paint shop in DBG

 

Superb work on your resto so far; looking forward to seeing pics when it's finished.

Thanks for the compliment, but don't be holding your breath for the finish, I think it'll be a while yet

Cracking progress, we swear by Tigerseal in our workshop for body repairs etc

I usually swear at it, mainly 'cos I can't seem to use it without making a mess and sticking it to everywhere other than where I want it. I always manage to put my hand in it and then I touch something else and spread it from there

hiya , i keep poping in to see how your getting on , your making good progress and its looking very good keep up the good work .

Haven't had an update on progress for a few weeks, so here's the latest batch of pictures and waffle on the recent works.

On another thread recently, several of us were preaching about the good rust removing qualities of electrolosys. It doesn't do a bad job of removing grease, oil and old paint, either. Had the drivers door hinge in the bucket the other week, had to leave it in for a couple of days but after washing off it came out like this

Ready for a fresh coat of red oxide. Job done!

Back on the ongoing cab resto, had a couple of very productive days over the easter break. I intended attacking the engine while all the covers are off, bit of preventative maintenance, as well as clean up and repaint. Having had a bad experience with a burst coolant hose on the Timber Tractor, sensible idea to change them all now.

You don't need to be an expert to see that these are well past their sell by date. Unfortunately this was as far as I got with this plan, I couldn't get the pressure washer near enough to wash the gunge off, nor to flush the system through. On top of that the dynamo mounting is broken, and needs repair so fitting new belts was off too.

Not wishing to waste the day, I moved on to stripping the electrics, master switch and drivers side battery box.

Bit of a daunting task, but piece by piece, tracing cables and labelling everything it all came out.

Oh! But it did leave a mess behind, and a substantial hole in the floor plate. More welding required

Just got to make sense of this lot now and hope the labels and notes made make sense when it comes to putting it back in. Most of the actual wiring has fared quite well, with only the terminals looking a bit manky. Same cannot be said of the armoured conduit, some of which just isn't there anymore. Plan is to replace the lot, only way to guarantee it will all work.

Started with cleaning up the master switch unit. I think this is a tanker specific item, I don't remember seeing any other Militants with such a set up

Came up quite nicely, with a fresh coat of black. I thought it would have been green paint all the way through, but under many layers of IRR matt and several gloss DBG it was matt black

Unfortunately it is missing the brass cap from the inspection light socket, remains of the securing chain is still there but no cap.

Should look like this one on the timber tractor. If any one has a spare one lying about, we could come to an arrangement as they say.

After that effort, moved on to stripping the off side panels off

Again it exposed more rust. There was the remains of a birds nest in between the inner and outer panels. I'd guess it would be Blue Tits, as it was quite small and the only way in was though the rusted hole at the top of the panel. Just their sort of residence.

Took the remains of the Bridge Plate off to find nothing behind it, where there should be a nice bit of front scuttle panel. Another bit that needs the attention of the welder.

Finished off with the last bit of engine cover. All shot down one edge, so chop out and let in a new section. Bit challenging, this bit as there is a 20 degree fold along the edge. Hopefully I have got it right, but I plan to have a trial fit before I go cleaning and repainting it. No sense in wasting a load of paint and effort if I have to cut it up again.