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BAOR REME in a Tank unit


robin craig

Question

Stupid question, might be or not.

 

Anyway, it is known that some Land Rover 1 Tonnes ended up in some strange places.

 

So I would like to ask a "what is plausible" question.

 

My 1 tonne served both with the RTR and the IDG.

 

If I were to conjur up the notion of putting the vehicle into a role with one of those units I am contemplating portraying it being used by some kind of REME attached to the tankers.

 

So, stretching my current needs to what is plausible, I am thinking of taking a repro battery box cover (so as not to hack the original) and mounting onto it a Bedford type battery master switch and a Ferret style slave socket mount.

 

I have seen so much done to vehicles in service especially by the crafty types who get ingenious I feel that this kind of modification must have just been something that a REME type might have done.

 

Can anyone from experience me an opinion of my intentions and materials?

 

Thanks

 

Robin

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To me the ability to shut off all power and the ability to slave / boost / jump start other 24volt vehicles is one that I need and want to do it in a way that is plausible for the vehicle while not damaging the originality.

 

So to portray the wagon as a REME vehicle with the tankies is my way of self justification.

 

I was hoping that other REME types would pass a comment, maybe this thread needs more time.

 

I will say that as more folks get on the (dreaded) Facebook we have been exposed to many personal albums showing many non standard modifications to vehicles in many theatres and usages that make me feel much better about dong this.

 

Regards

 

Robin

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Having spent the majority of my career with tank Regiments in Germany I can honestly say that I never saw a LR 1 ton in any tank Regt. The only time I saw them was with cloud punchers or Inf Bn's.

If we had of been given them I would suggest the Sqn Tech rep's should have had them. They are the ones who do the spares chasing for fitter sections and cover a lot of ground. They had to use normal LR and Trl to carry spares so having the larger cargo area of the 1 ton would have been a benefit not to mention its speed. Fitting a slave socket would have been something we would have done as would fitting a BV and a couple of other luxuries.

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Tiffy Massive thanks for the input, The data cards are what I am basing the assertion of where it served on but I also don't dispute your memory.

 

The boiling vessel aka BV was on my list but was wondering about what electrics I will have to source to run that. Our BV206 has a special control box for the breakout. It would add the perfect level of luxury that is missing.

 

Thanks for the input

 

Robin

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BVs in land rovers still happen, I have made a few conversions for them, easiest way for the Wolf fleet (being 24v and fitted with a slave socket) is to get a condemned slavelead, strip down the head and cut one end of the bv cable off and re-wire to the head ( remembering the cable is different each end). This has worked fine for me, also typing this I now remember a full lighting kit for the rear of my fitter truck and even work lights have been made this way.

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Robin, The Battery box on the 1 Tonne. Is sufficiently big enough internaly. To fit a slave socket inside, mounted on one of the sidewalls.. You can then run a slave socket, or as has been suggested. & BV off this socket, if you have modified the lead. With a Male slave socket on one end. you do NOT actually need the control box as fitted to a BV Tracked Vehicle. Or Stalwart. You CAN plug it straight in & use it.

BUT.....You must monitor it as it heats up to the correct boiling tempreture. Because, IIRC, the control box as mentioned. Has a Cut out or relay in it. to switch it on & off during use. To prevent the thing boiling dry. & subsequently burn the heating element out!

 

I used to modify BV cables this way in service. To run BV's off the internal Slave sockets in Ferrets! ;)

It was a very simple matter, when parked up & waiting around on Exercises. To stand the BV on a rear wing, with the cable run through one of the rear opening viewing hatches. Plugged into the slave socket & make a brew for the Two Crew members. When boiled, all you had to do. Was pull the lead out of the BV. Leaving the lead in the slave socket out the hatch.

so the BV could be reused when required as the vehicle was static. Obviously, when having to move off. The lead was removed & stowed alongside the BV in/on the vehicle.

 

NOTE: you NEED the engine running, to heat the BV!!!! As the ferret is so quiet ticking over, it is not annoying to do this!

 

A VERY convienient & easy way to make a brew, or heat food! ;)

Edited by ferretfixer
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Dear Ferret Fixer,

 

Once again I am thankful for more information.

 

However, I will not mount anything to the vehicle itself as my own policy is "no new holes, nothing welded on".

 

That is why I made the new battery box lid.

 

Out of curiosity, the Boiling Vessel lead has 4 pins, why?

 

Robin

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Vehicles that are originally equiped for BVs have a big relay in the box that the BV is powered from. This is controlled via the extra pins and they are shorter than the actual power pins. This means that if you pull out the plug it cuts the power before the power pins disconnect, preventing damage to the plug and socket. I have an idea that this only applies to one end of the lead, and there are instructions that that end must always be unplugged first.

 

David

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Vehicles that are originally equiped for BVs have a big relay in the box that the BV is powered from. This is controlled via the extra pins and they are shorter than the actual power pins. This means that if you pull out the plug it cuts the power before the power pins disconnect, preventing damage to the plug and socket. I have an idea that this only applies to one end of the lead, and there are instructions that that end must always be unplugged first.

 

David

 

There you go Robin! The above statement is correct about the relay. When I thought about it later, the thermal Relay is inside the BV!

The control box I have just examined, & it makes sense. With the Voltage/Current involved at 24V.

There would indeed be sparking & consequently a carbon build up. Eventually making the circuit complete, 'difficult/intermittant'.

The heavy duty relay, would obviate this. I have such a control box for my own BV, awaiting fitting in my RB44.

It was sourced from a Stalwart being broken for spares.

 

With the modification of a slave lead end plug. They are so massive & easy to clean the inside spigot etc. It didn't matter about sparking when using the slave lead in ferrets! ;)

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