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restoration of a valentine MK5 tank started


monty2

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The stubs that stick out on the hinges go into corresponding holes in the hull, a bit like a safe door , cut the hinges, but you still can not get the door open, ( explosion proof ? )

The second picture shows the 2 x tapered pegs, ( 9/16" dia. hardened ), one end picks up a flat on the torque rod for the door, and the other end picks up another flat spot on the rod and this pegs into an end cap that is attached to the hull and independent of the door. So when door is opened, a twisting effect is loaded on the 9mm rod, giving it a spring like action. The trick is when making these rods is to get the flats in the right offsets, so as to give you just enough tension, but not too much, as they are only little rods and would break, also do not grind flats too deep , as this would create a weak point as well. Cheers Andrew.

 

 

Thanks, I get it now!

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that link goes to O1 tool steel, is that what you guys use for torsion rods? I know it comes annealed and not hardened to 67C but..........

Ground flat stock is capable of reaching very high hardness levels with minimal movement

 

[TABLE=width: 100%]

[TR]

[TD=class: TableHeader, align: center]Carbon ©[/TD]

[TD=class: TableHeader, align: center]Manganese (Mn)[/TD]

[TD=class: TableHeader, align: center]Silicon (Si)[/TD]

[TD=class: TableHeader, align: center]Chromium (Cr)[/TD]

[TD=class: TableHeader, align: center]Tungsten (W)[/TD]

[TD=class: TableHeader, align: center]Vanadium (V)[/TD]

[TD=class: TableHeader, align: center]Phosphorus (P)Max[/TD]

[TD=class: TableHeader, align: center]Sulfur (S)Max[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: TableData, align: center]0.95[/TD]

[TD=class: TableData, align: center]1.2[/TD]

[TD=class: TableData, align: center]0.4[/TD]

[TD=class: TableData, align: center]0.5[/TD]

[TD=class: TableData, align: center]0.5[/TD]

[TD=class: TableData, align: center]0.2[/TD]

[TD=class: TableData, align: center]0.03[/TD]

[TD=class: TableData, align: center]0.03[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

 

a quick search for Torsion rods shows alloy 5160 as commonly used

Chrome-silicon spring steel;

 

carbon .56, manganese-.75-.91, chromium- .70/.90, phosphorus- .035 max, sulfur- .04 max )

 

the much lower carbon + lack of tungsten means it cannot be hardened like tool steel but hardness doesn't seem like the quality you need here? more like flexibility + fatigue and shock resistance .

just curious

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  • 3 weeks later...

More brackets have been refurbished. The first pic shows the Auxiliary fuel tank brackets and their clamps. These brackets mount on the rear left hand side of the Tank on the mudguard. I will also be fitting the Aux. fuel tank itself at a later date.

Next up is the 2- gallon spare can holders. This unit bolts onto the rear transom flap and when you unfold the flap there are steel bumper stops built into the bracket, so a bench is created, but in this setup it will bottom out on the pintle hook. Then we have the drivers doors brass open/shut catches, L/H and R/H. To open the doors you have to grab the handle and cable at the same time and then the door pops open with the aide of the built in torque rods as discussed previously. The 2 x little drivers periscope handles are also shown for being able to control the periscopes with one hand while driving. Next is a couple of pics of the top rear turret stowage box. This mounts on the turret rear bustle and the lid opens away from the commander for access and has 2 x little chains on the lid to prevent the lid going over too far. The 2nd to last pic we show the tow rope brackets that mount onto the exhaust mudguard brackets front and rear. The main tow rope is the wartime twin lead of about 1" diam., I forget the name it has, maybe someone could tell us it's proper designation, ie. No.9 Towing? This hooks on the rear towing eyes and lays forward across the top of the Left hand mudguard, and the big steel ring that is built into the tow rope is held by a leather belt that is permanently secured to the front of the left hand guard, by the guard support. Also in the bottom of the pic is the pick-axe head clamp. The last pic shows the shovel and crowbar holding bracket, this also bolts onto the rear L/H guard. The shovel is the standard British Tee-handle type.

Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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The two cast units for securing the transmission doors are shown. I had to make new internal treaded piece and knurled turning nob for the top. As I think I have mentioned before the thread is 5/8 BSW. I take it they manufactured it this way as it required less turns of the knob to secure the door back quickly.......designers always thinking of the safety and comfort of the crew! Last couple of pics show the pieces that go into the commanders cupola hatch. This was welded open at the hinges , as it had been in the playground situation, so fingers did not get jammed. There are 3 x hatches, one takes the periscope and the two traversing handles are also attached to this piece, so the commander can fully rotate himself 360 degrees, independent to the main turret. The hatches attach to an inner ring that rotates on 3 x bronze outer housings that have an internal bearing, all this sits in a tapered groove of this inner ring. The way this is assembled , the inner ring is now locked to the outer ring by these bearing units , and the outer is bolted to the main turret by series of 3/8" machine screws.

The ring shown is the outer one, which sits underneath, and the inner one also covers over this one, when assembled.

There is also a straight ahead plunger lock fitted to stop it rotating when the Tank is on the move, and catches to secure the open hatches, so as to prevent them smacking you on the head! Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The commander cupola has come together with new bearings and periscope. Like all things British , the use of shims is an integral part of setting up hinges, etc, to allow for any variances in machining operations. hatches open and shut smoothly!

It bolts to the main Turret roof with 24 x 3/8" machine screws.

Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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She now has "Eyes"! ;) ,Install of the drivers periscopes now completed, after full strip and re greasing, they turn nice and smooth , in all directions. last pic shows one of the two drivers interior lights, that sit either side of the drivers head. A fairly standard British dash light marked TL3 , as also used in Bren Carriers. We have fitted 2 NOS ones . Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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The completion of the external work requires the fabrication and the drilling of lots of holes for the manufacture of the mudguards, and there are lots of parts that all interlock together to work as one massed unit. The swaging in all the guards, I have patterned off original rusty ones. I used a machine called a pullmax, which you can set at so many beats a minute, and as the material passes through the two opposing tools the swage is formed and "hammered" into the sheet steel. The trick with this set up is to set the pullmax machine at right angles to a large milling table ( 4m in length ) with CNC attachment , and with two operators, one engaging the pullmax and the other controlling the mill, and away you go, mm perfect. You would have thought they were press braked out of one big die. The guards attach to the side of the Tank with multiple 1/2" BSF bolts, as you can see by the pictures there are several special brackets that also protrude along the length of the Tank for mudguard support. The smaller stowage box on the rear R/H side is NOS , but I did have to manufacture the larger one in front using some original catches. In front of that on the R/H side you have the rack for the jacking blocks and then up front brackets attach for the mirror. Last pic shows the rear stowage box mounted for the 2 gallon cans.Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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  • 2 weeks later...

With the fabrication of the guards completed , they now have been blasted and painted and fitted. First couple of pics showing front L/H hand, and gives an idea of the various operations that had to be performed in the forming of the guard.

Next is the mudguard surround for the R/H side. Then we have the front track adjusting clamping arm and bracket. These fittings have to be installed before guards go on as working space is very tight! The next couple of pics show the headlight brackets and supports, this is for the CAV 8" light, and showing fitted to the Tank. Second to last pic showing the front rubber mudguard getting a trial fit and assessment. The last pic shows the front L/H drivers door support bracket and rubber rest, and the all necessary packing shim, as standard on every Valentine! Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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Yes, we are hoping final testing will be completed around the end of this March. The engine will need the head re-torqueing and the checking of valve clearances , etc. Belly plates off to check for any oil leaks as well. One of the last major hurdles is the resurrection of the Turret basket, this will be started on soon, as we are completing some of the finer details and leaving this till last. Once the Turret basket is completed it should only take 1/2 day for the complete Turret unit to be bolted in and the 10 wires through the rotary junction to be connected to the bottom of the basket.

All belly plates have been fitted, except for the drivers escape hatch at this stage, which is ready to go. The heavy 5/8" thick rear transom plate is held in with about 12 x 5/8" bolts across the back and about 16 x 1/2" bolts at the front. The armoured convoy light has also been installed. The engine belly plate is made of 1/4" thick steel and held in with about 40 odd x 3/8" BSF bolts. A 2 x man operation to install that one as well. The last series of pic show the original muffler components and their installation. I did have NOS asbestos gaskets , but I took the option of replacing these for more environmentally friendly modern exhaust gasket material. Quite interesting that I had not noticed before , was that the muffler was directional, as there is a special tag and lettering to say as much. The very last pic shows the protective cover shields fitted. Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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Just received in some freshly cut jacking blocks from a friend for the project. Actually quite hard to find dried hart timber of a suitable type in this particular size. They also have been nicely oiled. I patterned a copy of the steel rack off an original. The blocks will be secured by a leather strap. These mount on the front R/H side on top of the mudguard by the drivers door. Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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A couple more trinkets to put into the Turret, the 2 x grenade boxes that contain 3 each. We put in new felt pads and canvas work to these original boxes that were in good condition. Also we show all the parts and fittings for the drivers vision block and head rest pad when he is looking through the slits. The outside armoured wedge that covers the complete drivers vision hole is closed by means of a handle that sits underneath all of these components. There is also a clear vision block used that locates in the milled out slots of these components as well. The two trigger catches are used in the various operations of moving the main armoured block up and down and there is one for securing the clear lens as well. Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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A fine piece of restoration is nearly completed. Your enthusiasm for the project and attention to detail is just astonishing. Thank you for bringing this complex piece of engineering back to life. Those pieces of timber look wonderfull.

Edited by john1950
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But wait.........there's more! Up today we have the vent shutters that go in the bulkhead between the fighting compartment and the engine. The grilles slide back left and right to control airflow out of the Turret through to the engine. With the rotation of the blades, this allows airflow to exit through rads. to the rear, just don't put your fan blades on the wrong way! Next we have a couple of views of the drivers stowage box to his R/H side, the little compartments are for spare periscope prisms. The fourth pic shows the completed airduct, which is the last item for the engine compartment, this hooks into the 3 airfilters and draws air from the fighting compartment as well. The last pics show the first aid box that attaches to the L/H side of the hull, just behind the driver. This also supports the cold start plunger underneath, and drivers haversack. Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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Back on the exterior, we see the canvas waterproofing being fitted to the external hinges of the stowage boxes, and both large boxes fitted to the R/H side of the Tank. The front larger box also acts as mudguard supports as this bolts to the hull from the inside. At the front there is also the landing pad for the drivers R/H door and you can also lock this in the open position, with a sliding bolt that catches into the stowage box. The door opening handle will clear the jacking blocks by 1/8" of an inch!. One cost saving of material from the designers was that the stowage boxes have no bottoms! , instead using the flat surface area of the mudguards to create this. The last couple of pics show the radiator shrouding either side of the two radiators , as you can imagine , this makes for a far more efficient cooling system as all airflow is directed through the rads, rather than around. Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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Hi Robin , the answer to the question about the bolts will be that all bolts unpainted externally on the outside of the Tank will be first brush painted with our 2-pack primer with a 5mm brush. There is probably only 300 to do!. Once we have completed trials, the tracks will come off and the entire Tank will be rubbed down and "scotched" to receive the final

coat(s).The internal bolts that hold items together like the bulkhead will be left unpainted in zinc finish. This is because removeable sections need to be able to be undone without striping threads, etc. caused by paint build up. The bigger bolts above 5/16" have normally been bead blasted , if black and painted individually in the colour to match, so will have minor touch-ups required, after fitting. The paint system we are using can take an extreme amount of punishment from spanners, etc. , ie. the paint does not flake off when installing an item. Cheers Andrew.

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Some finishing bits to various parts include the fitting of the webbing straps to the rear 2 gallon stowage container. Also tried my hand at a bit of woodwork today with the machining and drilling of the plywood spacer that goes inside the flare box, there are 2 strips of this ply required for one box. The next 2 pics show the under floor supports for the L/H floor area next to the driver, more angles and bolts! The 5 pic shows the drivers L/H foot rest, that mounts off the end of the battery tray that you see in the last pic. This last pic shows the battery tray that is installed next to the driver, to take the battery box. We will only be using 2 x 12volt batteries up front in the Tank, as this position is easier to get to for changing out batteries , than running the original 4 x 6volt batteries , where 2 were situated in the rear engine compartment. Cheers from the Tank Factory.

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