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Thread: Morris Tilly late model

  1. #111

    Default Re: Morris Tilly late model

    Oops! Second photo above not correct.

    I also got the reinforcing panel around the handbrake added in. There was a dent in the hump I couldn't get out. By placing the panel in position and bolting the handbrake down it pulled the dent up and held it in place while I plug welded the drilled holes. A bit of clamping and tipping th body side to side to get a better welding position.
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  3. #112

    Default Re: Morris Tilly late model

    While I had the body lifted on my gantry I took the opportunity to install new shackle bushes in the front. It took every bit of pressure I could wring out of this G clamp to get them to push in.
    After that it was time to wipe a bit more filler around and tidy up some of the welds and other imperfections.
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  4. #113

    Default Re: Morris Tilly late model

    More news from Jack Neville "got all the filler rubbed back before I took off for Corowa for the week. I gave the body a thorough going over with fishoil and sealed all the seams with butyl mastic. The week in Corowa gave it a chance to dry out so it was ready to paint when I got home." Attached Thumbnails

  5. #114

    Default Re: Morris Tilly late model

    First a coat of body deadener underneath and on the floor and other areas to help hide a few minor imperfections.
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  6. #115

    Default Re: Morris Tilly late model

    I bolted a piece of scrap to the bumper brackets and to where the tow bar attaches, (which has also been fitted). By hoisting it on a chain at the back and using the block and tackle at the front I fashion a temporary rotiserie for painting.
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  7. #116

    Default Re: Morris Tilly late model

    The firewall panel and dash panel and pedals have gone for sand blasting. The pedal pivot bolts and bushes are all flogged out so I got some bushes from a bearing supplier that will fit and bought some bolts which I turned down on the lathe to suit.
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  8. #117

    Default Re: Morris Tilly late model

    Now that the body is painted the previously rebuilt axles, springs, dampers and steering gear can go straight on. The front torsion bar was really hard to align and required the use of a porta power to push the axle mount forward and the chainblock to pull the axle up. To stop the whole front end lifting I had to put a piece of timber under my gantry cross beam to work against the chainblock.

    My gantry spans the width of my shed and travels on rollers the full length of the shed. It is made from railway line and other scrap. It enables me to pick up anything and move it to anywhere in the shed. The railway line is supported on steel posts which also double as the support posts of the shelving when I built the shed. Makes life very easy.
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  9. #118

    Default Re: Morris Tilly late model

    Heres some more news from the House of Neville skunkworks!

    PS if anyone has leads on getting a Solex 30 HBFDO Carbie, I'd be very interested






    "Chris has got the roofs painted while I repaired a second set of seat bases. We had one complete set and the other only had the bottom parts. They are only made from 1" angle iron so it was pretty straight forward to cut and drill and rivet the top section.
    Attached Thumbnails "
    Last edited by Chris_Collins; 05-05-2017 at 12:18.

  10. #119

    Default Re: Morris Tilly late model

    I've digressed a bit to have a look at the fuel tanks I have to work with. This is a Tilly tank. Filler on top and about 150 mm longer than a car tank.
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  11. #120

    Default Re: Morris Tilly late model

    The Tilly tank has a big hole in the bottom and I suspect a very untidy interior. They share the same stamped end and flanges for filler necks and guages. So I opened up the car tank and removed one end and baffle. Looking at the end I am contemplating getting some steel plates lazar cut and pressing some new end pieces in the same pattern. However before I try that I sweated that one end apart. It looks solid and might be able to be cleaned up and re-zinced. If I can recover all four ends and the baffles and recondition them I will just have to fold up the body of the tank and solder all the parts back together.
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