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Morris Tilly late model


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Another small area that needs converting back to Tilly spec is a section of the side footwell. The car has stamped holes in the panel whilst the Tilly is solid. Only the large holes are filled with masonite so the stamped holes would be still visible. The rusty of front end collected from Len Watkins can donate these bits, including the straight flat bar welded on to accomodate the fire extinguisher bracket

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Just finished reading this and I have to say what a great job you are doing and the research to get all the little details right

is impressive. You mentioned the white diff, this was common to all Brit vehicles and was illuminated by a small lamp IIRC made by Rubbolite. A quick search on the forum will tell all. Incidentally seeing the Morris 10 brought back memories of my late father's adventures in one just after the war. Best of luck with the resto, I'm looking forward to seeing your progress and, of course, the finished Tilly.

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Overnight in the electrolysis bath and they are ready to fishoil and weld in when the opposite is removed.

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Can you please explain the set up,

along with pics if possible of your electrolysis bath. Whats the advantages of doing this process ? Thanks

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I'm the minion/monkey, John is the organ grinder, he might chime in, but i think it is basically this method http://www.homercidal.com/molasses/electrolysis.htm I think the advantages are its quick and effective, and john is more familiar with it. i'm going to experiment with the Molassess method in cleaning up stuff we're not in a great hurry to use, (footman loops etc) as i had some sucess cleaning up a despatch rider helmet with it, but it is rather slow and apparently turns cast iron into swiss cheese, and it has a reputation for being pongy (overratted in my limited experience) and John isn't as familiar with it. My experience is molassess treated stuff seems to start rusting before your eyes after taking it out of the bath, so i'm thinking i'll hit it with phosphoric acid immediately afterwards, should nicely convert any reactive iron into iron phosphate. That helmet came out looking like it had been sandblasted, even stripped the small remaining ammount of paint off. Cheers Chris

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What is " fish oil " and what does it do please? Not heard of it before.

 

Same purpose as Waxoyl........I tend to think Waxoyl is better so will be an interesting discussion. You coat the inside of everything with fish oil which retards rust.......yes it stinks

 

Maybe Waxoyl is less effective here due to the heat... looking forward to see the pros and cons of each

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http://www.wattyl.com.au/en/find-the-right-product/exterior/Metal/Prepare/WattylKillrustFishoilene.html

 

strange, fish oil must be an aus thing, its a rust preventative that seeps into joins and coats areas hard to reach, seems be fish derived, sets like linseed oil does, eg slowly. strangely the stuff I use is odourless, certainly not fishy.

I find it can be painted over but takes an age to set.

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http://www.wattyl.com.au/en/find-the-right-product/exterior/Metal/Prepare/WattylKillrustFishoilene.html

 

strange, fish oil must be an aus thing, its a rust preventative that seeps into joins and coats areas hard to reach, seems be fish derived, sets like linseed oil does, eg slowly. strangely the stuff I use is odourless, certainly not fishy.

I find it can be painted over but takes an age to set.

 

good to hear it doesn't stink anymore

 

we did a mates car with it over 20 years ago and had to drive with the windows down

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  • 1 month later...

The Tilly has a stronger handbrake than the car. It has four mounting bolts whereas the car has two. The Tilly also has a reinforcing patch of metal welded around the position of the handbrake to strengthen the floor. this was removed fro the old Tilly and excess metal removed and cleaned up ready to weld over the prop shaft tunnel. Two extra mounting nuts were welded in place.

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The side panels for the rear body whilst being intact and rust free are a bit too difficult to straighten perfenctly so we opted to make new panels. The inside tool boxes were removed by separating the spot welds. The boxes can be sandblasted and reused by rewleding to new side panels.

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Another big job was stripping all two sets of suspension dampers. About ten dampers were stripped to get enough parts to complete eight. Four front and four rear. The arms were sandblasted and the housings treated in the electrolysis bath. Pistons and valves were cleaned in thinners. Apart from a couple which had rust inside, they mostly cleaned up well. I pressed out the arms and installed new oil seals and then reassembled them. I used a small punch in the press to cut enough gaskets for the rear seal in one go.

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Body primed and upside down to repair a couple of rusty sections in the right side chassis rails. You can see where I started to cut out the rust with tin snips. Also shown is the reinforcing piece for under the passenger seat and the seat bracket mounts in position of where they need to be welded in.

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