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Morris Tilly late model


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Time to put the rear chassis rails and floor back together. First pick up the body and put it on the work bench.

Not many vehicles you can restore on a workbench!

First was to cut a small piece of pipe to insert inside the chassis as a crush tube for the damper arm mount as this is in a different position of a car chassis. I folded a channel section and insert inside the chassis where they joined. Smoe holes were drilled so a few extra plug welds could be added. As the outside pice of chassis runs unbroken past this joint I think it will be plenty strong enough.

Some other pieces of steel were clamped top and bottom to align the pieces.

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In modifying a Tilly from an original car chassis the B pillar is simply moved back about eight inches or so to accomodate a wider door. When initially examining these vehicles I thought a repair patch had been added to the sill section but all that was done was a filler piece was added in factory to make up for where the original B pillar was intended to be located. So I had to do the same.

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Chris intends to tow a trailer (read custom tear drop Tilly camper yet to be designed and built) so a tow bar is required. There is not a lot to attach a tow bar to on the chassis of a Tilly so in repairing the rear box section of the floor (which welds between the ends of the chassis rails) I decided to reinforce that area.

A piece of 3mm sheet was first folded to replace the rusted box section I had cut out. Another 3mm piece was folded to add inside.

I will weld nuts inside this section to pick up and support the tow bar. There is two holes with crush tubes about half a metre from the chassis rail ends that can be utilised to fix the front end of the tow bar. This will be adequate support for the tow bar which I can fabricate once all this is in place.

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When I removed the floor I drilled all the spot welds with a spot weld drill. I left the bottom welds intact after cutting them so I could realign the rear of the chassis rails with exactly where they had originally joined the floor. The rails had crept in a bit with the welds so I needed a porta power to spread them slightly.

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The floor is now welded in, which just left the small patch to do. The patch needed to match the cut off ends of the rotted floor ribs so after welding a flat patch in I heated it up and gently tapped the profile of the ribs in where required. Needs a little more dressing with a hammer and dolly but I can't access it properly in this position so I will finish it off when I can turn the chassis on its side. A few heat shrinks were required also to pull the front area of the floor into better shape and there are just a few welds to grind up.

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The floor is now welded in, which just left the small patch to do. The patch needed to match the cut off ends of the rotted floor ribs so after welding a flat patch in I heated it up and gently tapped the profile of the ribs in where required. Needs a little more dressing with a hammer and dolly but I can't access it properly in this position so I will finish it off when I can turn the chassis on its side. A few heat shrinks were required also to pull the front area of the floor into better shape and there are just a few welds to grind up.

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Excuse my lack of knowledge...just wondered how the "few heat shrinks" thing works ? I thought heat expanded and distorted metal ??? would love to learn the skills you have....amazing !!!

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John Neville is the wizard of the Sheetmetal, i'm just his minion, he might chime in but he's more active on MLU,we have the same thread running there which i'm basically duplicating as soon as he posts something new. Here is more UK centric and we figured we would potentially get more interest and useful information here than on MLU, John Isn't very active here though.

 

Thanks for your interest, folks I'm amazed that after going to Operation Market Garden 70th anniversary and declaring "I must have a Tilly", how quickly things have progressed (escalated? :nut:)

 

andrew, I shall email you shortly in regards to the measurements you want, we have an alternative proposition for you.

 

Cheers

 

Chris

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Excuse my lack of knowledge...just wondered how the "few heat shrinks" thing works ? I thought heat expanded and distorted metal ??? would love to learn the skills you have....amazing !!!

 

 

If you have an area of sheet metal that is stretched or bulged as I found when putting this floor back in, you can shrink the metal. Apply heat to a spot where the bulge is obvious. This will cause as you say the metal in that spot to expand and bulge up in the area that is red hot. Whilst it is red hot, hammer and dolly that bulge down flat. You need to act quickly and it is easier to have an assistant use the torch. As you get it hammered flat quickly quench that area with a wet rag and this will cause the metal to contract and shrink. You might need to do a few shrinks to get the area tight as evidenced by the hot spots seen on the floor. You can also get stainless steel discs for use in an angle grinder to achieve a similar effect whereby you use friction from the disc and a water spray bottle rather than a hammer and dolly and torch.

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Rooves have been blasted and the original just needs a small patch where it had been previously rusted through and filled. The folds inside above the sills are a bit untidy but will be convered with masonite trim eventually so we can live with that.

 

Chris has started working on the body side panels marking and drilling holes.

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Edited by Chris_Collins
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Pictures of the rooves as earlier mentioned. First was to add the rib on the car roof to match the original Tilly. There is a piece of rope which fits between to rib and roof to stop vibration I suppose. Some grinding of the rib to allow access to the bolts securing the supporting timber strut. Also reattached the small gutter pieces to the car roof.

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