Chris_Collins Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 he B pillars on the wartime Tillys have six caged nuts inserted in the rear of the pillar to attach the rear body. Converting the car pillar required the same but as it is a sealed peice I had to open it up to insert the cages. I folded the cages from 2mm sheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 The cages were welded through the holes drilled each side and the cuts rewelded. Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 The tops of the B pillars are modified to join the roof. Crush tubes are inserted in the pillar with small pieces of pipe and the trafficator opening was welded over and the pillar capped. Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 I clamped the pillars in situ and they seem to look ok. Will try the roof and hang the doors when they are both ready before welding the pillars into place permanently. Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Another small area that needs converting back to Tilly spec is a section of the side footwell. The car has stamped holes in the panel whilst the Tilly is solid. Only the large holes are filled with masonite so the stamped holes would be still visible. The rusty of front end collected from Len Watkins can donate these bits, including the straight flat bar welded on to accomodate the fire extinguisher bracket Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Overnight in the electrolysis bath and they are ready to fishoil and weld in when the opposite is removed. Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Found a photo of when I finished resetting all the strings Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Just finished reading this and I have to say what a great job you are doing and the research to get all the little details right is impressive. You mentioned the white diff, this was common to all Brit vehicles and was illuminated by a small lamp IIRC made by Rubbolite. A quick search on the forum will tell all. Incidentally seeing the Morris 10 brought back memories of my late father's adventures in one just after the war. Best of luck with the resto, I'm looking forward to seeing your progress and, of course, the finished Tilly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy1960 Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 Overnight in the electrolysis bath and they are ready to fishoil and weld in when the opposite is removed. Attached Thumbnails Can you please explain the set up, along with pics if possible of your electrolysis bath. Whats the advantages of doing this process ? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted August 26, 2016 Author Share Posted August 26, 2016 I'm the minion/monkey, John is the organ grinder, he might chime in, but i think it is basically this method http://www.homercidal.com/molasses/electrolysis.htm I think the advantages are its quick and effective, and john is more familiar with it. i'm going to experiment with the Molassess method in cleaning up stuff we're not in a great hurry to use, (footman loops etc) as i had some sucess cleaning up a despatch rider helmet with it, but it is rather slow and apparently turns cast iron into swiss cheese, and it has a reputation for being pongy (overratted in my limited experience) and John isn't as familiar with it. My experience is molassess treated stuff seems to start rusting before your eyes after taking it out of the bath, so i'm thinking i'll hit it with phosphoric acid immediately afterwards, should nicely convert any reactive iron into iron phosphate. That helmet came out looking like it had been sandblasted, even stripped the small remaining ammount of paint off. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy1960 Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 Overnight in the electrolysis bath and they are ready to fishoil and weld in when the opposite is removed. Attached Thumbnails [/QUO What is " fish oil " and what does it do please? Not heard of it before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 What is " fish oil " and what does it do please? Not heard of it before. Same purpose as Waxoyl........I tend to think Waxoyl is better so will be an interesting discussion. You coat the inside of everything with fish oil which retards rust.......yes it stinks Maybe Waxoyl is less effective here due to the heat... looking forward to see the pros and cons of each Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted August 27, 2016 Author Share Posted August 27, 2016 http://www.wattyl.com.au/en/find-the-right-product/exterior/Metal/Prepare/WattylKillrustFishoilene.html strange, fish oil must be an aus thing, its a rust preventative that seeps into joins and coats areas hard to reach, seems be fish derived, sets like linseed oil does, eg slowly. strangely the stuff I use is odourless, certainly not fishy. I find it can be painted over but takes an age to set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 http://www.wattyl.com.au/en/find-the-right-product/exterior/Metal/Prepare/WattylKillrustFishoilene.html strange, fish oil must be an aus thing, its a rust preventative that seeps into joins and coats areas hard to reach, seems be fish derived, sets like linseed oil does, eg slowly. strangely the stuff I use is odourless, certainly not fishy. I find it can be painted over but takes an age to set. good to hear it doesn't stink anymore we did a mates car with it over 20 years ago and had to drive with the windows down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 John Posted more work in the last week "The pieces with the holes were removed from the footwells on bothe sides. I will weld these tilly pieces in after it is sandblasted. I will leave them out for now just so the body is opened up better for blasting. " Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 The bottom of the windscreen A pillar is finished off. Small metal sections were required for reinforcing the pillar on the outside and inside where it bolts together. Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 The Tilly has a stronger handbrake than the car. It has four mounting bolts whereas the car has two. The Tilly also has a reinforcing patch of metal welded around the position of the handbrake to strengthen the floor. this was removed fro the old Tilly and excess metal removed and cleaned up ready to weld over the prop shaft tunnel. Two extra mounting nuts were welded in place. Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 Underneath the passenger floor, where I wleded in the large flat patch, this piece of reinforcing needs to be relocated along with the mounting brackets for the seat base. This was removed and the excess old floor metal removed. Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 There is still a fair bit of work to go on the body but at this stage it was ready to sandblast. I took it outside and Chris spent some time removing any remaining body deadener from the underneath so the blasting would be effective. Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 The side panels for the rear body whilst being intact and rust free are a bit too difficult to straighten perfenctly so we opted to make new panels. The inside tool boxes were removed by separating the spot welds. The boxes can be sandblasted and reused by rewleding to new side panels. Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 Sandblasted and ready to give a coat of primer to hold it from rusting as all the repairs and rebuilding take place. Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 The finish on a Tilly as mentioned earlier is rougher than a car. No lead wiping is included so to convert a car body to a Tilly requires melting all the lead out of joins around the door area, and front seams. Seems strange to 'de-finish' a vehicle. Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 Another big job was stripping all two sets of suspension dampers. About ten dampers were stripped to get enough parts to complete eight. Four front and four rear. The arms were sandblasted and the housings treated in the electrolysis bath. Pistons and valves were cleaned in thinners. Apart from a couple which had rust inside, they mostly cleaned up well. I pressed out the arms and installed new oil seals and then reassembled them. I used a small punch in the press to cut enough gaskets for the rear seal in one go. Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 New bushes were installed in the suspension arms and links. One bush was pushed in one side and then the other side was cut down in the lathe and the two halves glued together. Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Collins Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 Body primed and upside down to repair a couple of rusty sections in the right side chassis rails. You can see where I started to cut out the rust with tin snips. Also shown is the reinforcing piece for under the passenger seat and the seat bracket mounts in position of where they need to be welded in. Attached Thumbnails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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