restoration Chevrolet C60s

Pleased it arrived safe, did it smell when you opened the plastic bag ?

Pete

Hi Peter a little, bit of a smell of stale petrol, about the same as the one on the truck when it arrived infact the fuel in it was very bad. Howard

Hello Richard, heres a pic of the rebuild army plaque.

I've been reading this thread for the first time (and thoroughly enjoying it).

Despite looking at the plate carefully, I'm not sure that it relates to a 1941 rebuild. Is it also an FV3 plate, as per the 1946 engine rebuild item ?

A study of plates prior to 1944 seems to indicate that they were provided by TT3 and it is only from 1944 onwards that the FV3 designation appears.

Examination of this particular plate in as far as the photo allows it seems to show that the second year cipher appears to lack the diagonal downward stroke of the earlier '1' and that it might well be a '7'.

A 1947 rebuild incorporating an engine rebuilt during 1946 might well be a more logical sequence of events. Would there be any chance of a clearer photo, particularly if the plate has been cleaned up ?

I've searched a lot of MoS documents at the National Archives. To date several lists of wartime contractors and locations but no link to the workshop numbers. The search continues but the MoS files particularly seem to have been heavily thinned prior to moving to Kew in the early 1970s.

79x100. I will take another look at the plate and see if it cleans up any better and get another pic. Thanks Howard. Something i do need is some 7 inch headlight glasses, I also need the plugs that plug into the head light. Failing that are hard wire them right in. Thanks Howard

Is that for the original 'drum' lights Howard? if so what iv'e done in the past on a couple of restorations of the early type light is buy a pair of new formed glass/reflector units that take bulbs with side light integral from one of the vintage lighting companies. By using the outer plug housing only on the drum light you can pass the main, dip and side wiring through and then use spades to connect on to the main and side bulb inside the drum.

pete

Hello peter, not a bad idea for the head lights, if i can get an ols looking glass that will properly be ok. Are have a look on a few vintage spare sites that i use. Thanks Howard

Well Found some new 7" headlights on the shelf just need to get 6 volt bulbs. I also stripped and cleaned the light switch. I also got the coil fitted and mad up the new wires.

Jobs a good'n Howard

Pete

Hi Peter, I am getting there, on the wiring i have wired in the light switch and also wired in the dip switch for hi and low head lights. I noticed on the original wiring diagram that the rear side lights come off the fuse from the light switch to another toggle switch to supply the rear lights. Did you wire your rear lights like that, or did you wire them to come on with the front side lights. Think I am going to stick to the wiring diagram. I am also just using 3 colours on the braded wire. For the rear feed, I have managed to get some heavy 7 core cable so are be using that. Any thoughts as to where I can get a sender unit for the fuel Tank. Thanks Howard

I wired them to come on in the conventional manner with the front side lights and used that switch you mention on the dash to control a booster electric fuel pump that I installed under the cab in line with the mechanical pump for priming and hot starting.

I would try Dirk for the sender unit I've had a look in the barn and I don't have a decent one mine are all take outs.

Pete

I read about that idea of a booster pump on a recent thread somewhere - a good move.

Can you advise a suitable 6v pump that will allow through flow when off, and best location, Pete?

I read about that idea of a booster pump on a recent thread somewhere - a good move.

 

Can you advise a suitable 6v pump that will allow through flow when off, and best location, Pete?

Have a look at this for starters http://sucarb.co.uk/electric-fuel-pump-dual-polarity-6-volt.html there are others on the market if you do a search on the web.

As for placement tucked up inside the frame rail away from exhaust and engine heat source is best on the common feed to the suction side of the manual pump. If you do a search on here I think I explained how the electric/manual pump system operates.

Pete

Hi Howard

I've put 6volt electric fuel pumps on all three of my CMPs. Started doing this years ago as a primer for the system which makes starting an engine that has been standing for a long period of time much easier. Priming the system before hitting the starter allows for easy starting even in low temperture. Then the mechaincal pumps take over, always add a switch so that the fuel pumps can be turned off. Help if you ever manage to flood an engine.

With the addition of ethanol gas problems with diaphrams in the mechanical pumps started to be a problem. Now two of my trucks have the mechanical fuel pump by passed. On one I removed the mechanical pump completely and installed the electric fuel pump in that same location. That has been a trouble free location a number years. When I restored my HUP a couple of years ago wanted to maintain the look of stock orginal engine. In that case I removed the rubber diaphram and mechanical arm and put a steel plate inplace of the diaphram so the fuel now just passes through the pump assembly. Fuel pump is located up under the floor under the driver near the distributer. Not the best location as the only way to service the pump is by removing the floor plate. Plan to relocate it back next to the military fuel filter over the battery box figure there it can be serviced by just removing the battery.

On the last truck with mechanical pump my C60L Pat 12 I'm running a fuel cell in the cargo bed (truck needs new fuel tanks) on that one the electric pump is located right next to the tank with a see through fuel filter before. In terms of priming the electric pump and the system this is by far the best location. On that one the electric is only used to prime, with the mechanical doing the normal work.

I have discovered that with ethanol in the gas the electric fuel pumps I have used do not like to stand empty the oneway valves corrode or get stuck and do not work or loose preassure. Recently though I may have found a way to get them to work again. By disconnecting the pump and pumping them full of oil and then putting power to them with the outlet plugged.

Cheers Phil

Hi

This Autopulse six volt fuel pump was fitted to a Ford cab 11.

From what I have been told this was done on early fords destined for the dessert or India.

Sadly the cork gasket in it had gone hard srunk and brittle and petrol had leaked in to the selonoide chamber, making it a major fire hazard, lucky the points where submerge in the petrol so nothing could happen.

it will be replaced with a SU pump like the one mention earlier

Morning Howard,

Am enjoying this restoration thread. Dont want to clutter it up with photos, so here is a link to the MLU thread (see post #70) where I describe fitting a 12v fuel priming pump to my 6v truck. Cheaper pump but requires 12v power pack that I'd aleady fitted for Xenon beacon):

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22768&page=3

Mmm thanks peter for that. All of this fuel pump talk has made me think. Certainly seems like a good idea in fitting a 6 volt primer pump. I will have to consult my client but I recon thats another job for the list. Those SU pumps look like a good quality pump. I recon i may do what you did then peter, use the toggle switch for a fuel pump and connect rear lights with the front side lights. Thanks every one for there comments. Back to the truck and ive got the passenger side front wing on, just got to go and buy some more nuts and bolts its amazing how many these old trucks use. Howard

Well did a little bit more, got the head lights blasted in the cabinet, and then cleaned down and primed in red oxide. Get them top coated first thing in the morning.

Well I got the go ahead on fitting a 6 volt pump to the fuel system. So i have just ordered the pump, hopefully be here for Wednesday, another little job to do. It has a bulkhead fixing so are make a bracket up and fix to the chassis rail, or under the drivers side of the floor. Howard

Which pump and model did you go for ?

Niels, I went for an SU pump,it looks like a good quality pump, cost was £99 inc vat and delivery are let you know how I get on once its here and fitted, proof will be in the pudding. I am tempted to do away with the mechanical pump altogether, but ive rebuilt it now, so it may as well be used, and just use the SU pump as a primer pump for now. Here is a pic of the SU pump in question. Stock code for the pump is AUA26.

It's better to mount an electric pump as close to the tank as possible, or at least in a gravity fed supply. Modern petrol, especially winter grades, doesn't like being sucked. You can get into vapour locking problems upstream of the pump.

Hello Adrian, thanks for the advice, are have a good look at mounting places for the pump. Howard

I'm all for an electric pump for priming, cold start, and overcoming vaporisation, but I wouldn't run one of these trucks on one. All the electric pumps seem to put out a consistent pressure and flow rate which is higher than the carbs expect, leading to float / needle valve issues over time.

As a starting aid, definitely, but not a full time run pump.

You can fit a pressure regulator to overcome that problem.

Yes I think King Bee make a filter/ pressure regulator.There are some on that site ebay. Howard