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New toy joins the stable


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I went down and picked the cannon up today so the next job is to strip it down free everything off

and paint it the cannon is a live firer I will get some pictures and post them when it isn't raining

does anybody know what colour it should be

C

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When you strip it there should be areas of hidden factory paint that have not faded or been touched up with new paint. when I pulled my Jap mountain gun apart there was plenty of original paint between the recoil mech and barrel . at the time I just guessed the colour but have since found some vehicle re painters have spectrum analysers that can accurately match colours.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I spent the weekend sorting the Howitzer out and under the crap and paint I found a

stamping on the barrel dating it as a 1939 assembly but the carriage is all dated 1944

after 6 hours I got the breach to close properly and the firing mechanism operating as it

should do there is still lots of stuff to free off yet but it is getting there

Commander

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A quick update on the Russian howitzer I have been working on it all week the rear spade assembly is now freed off and working

and the towing eye bracket is now off and waiting to be straightened out the rear locking assembly is free and working and also

the elevation gears have been cleaned out the barrel was lifted off the carriage last thing tonight after a lot of work with the heat

the pivot unit was rusted solid it has taken all day to free off and remove the 2 locking pins which hold the barrel on the carriage

so in the morning it is out with the air gun with the lapping wheel on and hopefully reassemble watch this space for further news

Commander

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Well finally finished freeing everything off it rocks and rolls like it should do. The piece of armour plate

that was missing that had been shot out of the right hand side which I had fabricated to fit in the gap

came today so out with the welder and in it went after a struggle. I am taking it down to be low pressure

glass shot blasted on Thursday apparently it does not damage the metal hardly at all when I was there

they showed me some alloy engine cases they had done it looked very nice all I need now is some shell

cases to load up for blank firing

Commander

Edited by commander
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I have got it back from the shot blasters and while I wait for it to go into the paint shop I have been

sorting out the firing mechanism it is now firing off the primers ok no problem the next step is how do

I sort out what to put in black powder wise and what is the best way to load it not wanting to go down

the suck it and see method so any help tips of what to do or not to do would be very much appreciated

Commander

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for blank loading we use a heavy steel case turned up to suit the chamber with a shot gun primer in the rear and 1/6 plound of black powder ffg grade and a square rubber carpet underfelt and builders expanding foam as wadding works really well in our 6pdr and mates ww1 krupp

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Thanks for the info I would rather ask and be on the safe side

Commander

 

Being in the UK, the blanks will need to be on FAC (being more than 1" in diameter at the point of ignition).

 

That said, using one of the modern "black powder substitutes" may well be (a) safer, and (b) avoid the need for any additional licence from HSE. (It also has the advantage that all the combustion products are water soluble.)

 

(I would not like to use anything that will still be in one piece as it exits the muzzle as wadding, though.)

 

Chris.

(Rather out of practice with things that go Boom! due to cataract surgery ans a detached retina.)

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we have had good results with the builders expanding foam as a wad as it burns compleatly on ignition and can gold a sheet at 10ft and nothing touches it i guess your laws might be differnt but we can safely use our blanks with reanactors about

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we have had good results with the builders expanding foam as a wad as it burns compleatly on ignition and can gold a sheet at 10ft and nothing touches it i guess your laws might be differnt but we can safely use our blanks with reanactors about

 

I was concerned about the use of carpet underlay, which is unlikely to evaporate before clearing the muzzle.

 

Admittedly, this gnome is currently more used to firing pyrotechnic shells (up to 250mm/10" bore), that will cause death or serious injury if you have any part of your body in the way when they lift, not to mention having a bursting charge that will easily remove body parts or (in the larger sizes) turn you into geography than re-enactment blanks, but I am sufficiently (I hope) paranoid about explosives to try and reduce any risk to as near zero as practicable. )

 

I've shot .455 Webley wads through things in the past, and even thin card is remarkably resistant to being shot out of the end of a blank cartridge. A layer of sponge rubber with a woven jute backing sounded far too robust for use as wadding.

 

Chris.

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sorry should have stated the soft rubber type of underlay that does not have the woven material as it also burns when fired but holds the powder back enough and keeps the foam from shifting the powder away from the primer

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