gritineye Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 (edited) I have a 1928 Chevy that uses obsolete 600W gear oil in the gearbox and back axle, does anyone use a modern equivalent of this oil and if so where can it be bought from? I asked Morris oils tech dept and I didn't get a firm answer, lots of inconclusive stuff on Google. Edited March 2, 2015 by gritineye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
42 chevy Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Bernard; Here in the US, the Model T and Model A suppliers carry that grade of oil. http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/190 John G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8_10 Brass Cleaner Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 (edited) Im suprised at Morris's the MD has a vintage Model A Ford van. No doubt it should use 600W oil!. A quick google suggests that the spec is based on the kinematic viscosity (cSt) at 40degrees of 600. The ford boys who have analyzed old 600W oil suggest that a kinematic viscosity at 100degrees in the mid 30's. I have found this table very useful in terms of grade equivalents. and the info above is consistent with that. Based on that table It looks to me that what you need to use is either a ISO 680 steam oil, or a SAE140 gear oil. Morris do a Compounded 680 Cylinder oil cSt at 40degrees is 720, 37.5 at 100degrees. the non compounded 680 steam is 475 at 40 degrees so the compounding makes it more viscous, the compounding will likely be rape oil and or tallow. A compounded steam oil is more or less a GL1 gear oil, so I would be tempted with that. Certainly in the diff, as its a bit thicker that the theoretical spec when cold you may want to go for a lighter oil in the gearbox. Perhaps the compounded 460. Morris also do a AG140 and AG250 gear oils aimed at the classic market which are very similar in spec, so it would be worth looking at them also. They are GL1 spec, so do not damage yellow metals. Similarly the steam oils do not damage yellow metals. I use the compounded 460 steam oil in the back axle of my Austin 7. Edited March 2, 2015 by 8_10 Brass Cleaner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
42 chevy Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Synder's website states that the 600w is comparable to 250W today. John G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Im suprised at Morris's the MD has a vintage Model A Ford van. No doubt it should use 600W oil!. To be fair he said straight 140 would be OK but without conviction, he also suggested K4000 EP, http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/k4000ep-semi-fluid-grease.html I use the compounded 460 steam oil in the back axle of my Austin 7. Thanks for your input, I'll go with that as it seems to be what early Ford owners prefer from what I've read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Bernard;Here in the US, the Model T and Model A suppliers carry that grade of oil. http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/190 John G Thanks John that seems foolproof but I need some asp, so local is better for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatchFuzee Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 This is an interesting option but the "mixer" doesn't give any results of using homemade 600w oil. http://modelaclub.com/archives/tech-tips/687 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 This is an interesting option but the "mixer" doesn't give any results of using homemade 600w oil. http://modelaclub.com/archives/tech-tips/687 That may well work but I read somewhere that straight STP on it's own does the job....lot of miss info out there, I have my own workshop mixer but think I'll give it a miss... The car followed me home, I couldn't shake it off :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 After speaking with Morris's, we used 680 grade steam oil in the back axle and 460 grade steam oil in the gearbox of the FWD lorry. When I spoke with their man, he said 'let me look in the book' and was then very firm that this was what was wanted. Both have done their jobs with every satisfaction so we are very pleased. I don't think it is that critical with the really old stuff. Just avoid EP oils because they tend to attack any bronze around. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 What a lovely car, Bernard! Don't worry - the winch on my trailer will shake it off your back no problem. :cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 What a lovely car, Bernard! Don't worry - the winch on my trailer will shake it off your back no problem. :cool2: :nono: Mine all mine.....there are others in my household who love it more than Forceful, for some obscure female reason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Peskett Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 We have used Morris's 250 SAE in back axles and gearboxes and 30 or 40 SAE in engines since the 1970s both in my own and customers vehicles. We have never had a problem, do not use multi-grade ,EP oils etc. as they have a distinctive dislike to white metal and yellow metals as previously mentioned. A point not previously mentioned is that in the early days thick oil was used in axles and gearboxes as much as to keep it in the casing rather than its lubrication properties, grease was also used, remember not much in the way of seals in those days. In London, the City of London and MET police made life very difficult for the bus operators 1905 /7 in applying frequent fines for dropping oil onto the road, subsequently the LGOC introduced cast aluminium trays integral with the sumps etc. to retain this oil. Richard Peskett. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 (edited) We have used Morris's 250 SAE in back axles and gearboxes and 30 or 40 SAE in engines since the 1970s both in my own and customers vehicles. We have never had a problem, do not use multi-grade ,EP oils etc. as they have a distinctive dislike to white metal and yellow metals as previously mentioned. A point not previously mentioned is that in the early days thick oil was used in axles and gearboxes as much as to keep it in the casing rather than its lubrication properties, grease was also used, remember not much in the way of seals in those days. In London, the City of London and MET police made life very difficult for the bus operators 1905 /7 in applying frequent fines for dropping oil onto the road, subsequently the LGOC introduced cast aluminium trays integral with the sumps etc. to retain this oil.Richard Peskett. Much of the underside and engine compartment of this car are covered with up to and inch of oil/sand concretions that testify to that Richard, due to a bottom end rumble I've been removing shims from the bearing caps and can confirm the are no seals whatsoever in this engine... the rockers (yes folks OHV in 1914 design) are lubed by hand and have an oil soaked mat covering them under a dust cover. I've got some Morris's straight 30 for the engine but I can get much cheaper from local tractor dealers, not sure if there's much difference. Edited March 4, 2015 by gritineye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 What a lovely car, Bernard! Don't worry - the winch on my trailer will shake it off your back no problem. :cool2: on second thoughts perhaps it won't fit in with my collection Is this better for you Tony? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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