Jump to content

1914 Dennis Lorry


BenHawkins

Recommended Posts

All the glued boards were trimmed to the same length.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129064&stc=1

 

Two were clamped together where the window opening goes. The frame was used to mark the opening.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129065&stc=1

 

The opening was roughed out with a jigsaw and then a flush trim bit was used in the router to follow the frame that was screwed to the other side.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129066&stc=1

IMG_3759s.jpg

IMG_3760s.jpg

IMG_3761s.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The edge was then bevelled with the router.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129069&stc=1

 

The front bearer was shaped in the same way as the rear. I decided to trim out across the whole width of the chassis rather than just for the brake turnbuckle adjuster as it gives better access to the gearbox. Holes were drilled to suit the existing holes in the chassis and counter-bored to suit the bolts I made.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129070&stc=1

 

I will pick up the paint tomorrow so I can get everything primed and start to build up the layers.

IMG_3762s.jpg

IMG_3764s.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thought this may be of interest said to be 1913 dennis rolling chassis ebay number282651745007 not mine chindit

 

Thanks for the information, this is a similar chassis to my 1914 lorry.It is nice that somebody considers me a Dennis expert!

 

It is a couple of years since I went to see this chassis; I did quite a reasonable amount of work to try to identify it.

 

Although I was unable to read the chassis number when inspecting, the back axle did have the manufacturing date (June 1913).The measurements tie in exactly with the charabanc drawings and catalogue, but unusually it carries brackets for rear mudguards and had a foot step fitted at some point.

 

The engine mounts are for the White and Poppe engine with separate cylinder blocks like in my 1908 Dennis.The Dennis order book for June 1913 shows a few charabancs but only one supplied without a body (Dennis bodies generally covered the wheels so no rear mudguards were supplied). This bare chassis was supplied to Chapman (of Eastbourne), who operated in the area where the chassis was found. I even have a photo of one of these chassis (they bought two) in front of the Chapman offices and it shows that the body was transferred from another vehicle as it is not quite a perfect fit.

 

It is too expensive for me and from experience I think it could take several decades to find and make the parts to do it justice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I repeated the procedure of cutting half-lap joints for the ash frame at the front of the seat and checked the fuel tank would still fit with the help of the glamorous assistant

attachment.php?attachmentid=129298&stc=1

 

At this point I decided it would be a good chance to check the fuel tank did not leak and filled it with water for a couple of hours with no drips.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129299&stc=1

 

All the joints cut in the ash frame were given a coat of primer.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129300&stc=1

IMG_3778s.jpg

IMG_3779s.jpg

IMG_3780s.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I put some offcuts from the ash bearers on the bed through a planer then trimmed them to fit between the cab bearers. At this point I realised I did not really have any appropriate screws for holding the ash framing together (poor planning on my part!)

attachment.php?attachmentid=129301&stc=1

 

This has given a chance to move some of the timber to the undercoat stage.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129302&stc=1

IMG_3781s.jpg

IMG_3782s.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the last pieces of timber to finish the seat box I decided these would go in from the top so that it should be possible to remove the petrol tank without completely dismantling the cab.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129486&stc=1

 

After scribing the lines I cut as deep as I could with a saw.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129487&stc=1

 

And chiselled out the material to those lines.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129488&stc=1

IMG_3787s.jpg

IMG_3788s.jpg

IMG_3790s.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The other arch for the roof was cut from the offcut.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129499&stc=1

 

Both arches were tidied up with a plane and sanding block

attachment.php?attachmentid=129500&stc=1

 

The half-lap joints were cut in the same way and it was all tried in place for correct fit and so that the cut-outs could be scribed onto the uprights.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129501&stc=1

 

It was then all dismantled again so the other half of the joints could be cut in the uprights and some of the parts could start getting their coats of paint. That should keep me busy for the next week!

IMG_3798s.jpg

IMG_3800s.jpg

IMG_3802s.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The other arch for the roof was cut from the offcut.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129499&stc=1

 

Both arches were tidied up with a plane and sanding block

attachment.php?attachmentid=129500&stc=1

 

The half-lap joints were cut in the same way and it was all tried in place for correct fit and so that the cut-outs could be scribed onto the uprights.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129501&stc=1

 

It was then all dismantled again so the other half of the joints could be cut in the uprights and some of the parts could start getting their coats of paint. That should keep me busy for the next week!

 

Nice work there Ben

 

And use of chisel & sand/glasspaper to tidy up those notches is correct...

 

The rebating plane suggested would have spelched the wood...as your going against...rather than with the grain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the comments. I have limited carpentry tools so try to get away with what I have. Might put the shoulder plane on my Christmas list as I think there will be applications for it in the next lorry body build.

 

I have continued to cut the joints in the same way and much of the ash frame has been painted. I put the top planks back in place so I could mark the arc of the roof.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129636&stc=1

 

This allowed me to scribe a line along the side planks.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129637&stc=1

 

And plane back to that line to give an approximation of the roof radius.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129638&stc=1

IMG_3804s.jpg

IMG_3805s.jpg

IMG_3806s.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everything was then clamped back together and the diagonal dimensions measured to make sure it was all square before drilling and fitting screws.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129639&stc=1

 

The side planks still need to be finished off when the supports from the bulkhead are put in place and the roof line marked out.

IMG_3808s.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have mentioned before that my lathe is a bit too short to bore out the propshaft tube in the conventional fashion. I think I might have a way around this and have machined a bar end of steel to fit the tool holder and tapped it for some clamping bolts.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129640&stc=1

 

This allows me to mount the propshaft tube from the tool post and support the other end of the tube in a fixed steady.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129641&stc=1

 

Using a centre indicator to make the tube coaxial with the lathe spindle (using the tool height adjustment and cross slide adjustment to centre the tube)

attachment.php?attachmentid=129642&stc=1

IMG_3809s.jpg

IMG_3810s.jpg

IMG_3811s.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I previously machined an M14 thread on the end of a piece of 30mm diameter steel bar so I could screw a small boring head on the end.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129643&stc=1

 

The first attempt at a small cut was successful until the slide way adjusting screw that protrude from the outside diameter of the boring head crashed into the propshaft tube.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129644&stc=1

 

Which means the first cut has to be deeper than I would ideally like to clear these screws.

attachment.php?attachmentid=129645&stc=1

 

I can see the swarf getting in the way as I make the hole over 5 inches deep but we will have to see how it goes.

IMG_3812s.jpg

IMG_3813s.jpg

IMG_3814s.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ben.

 

You don't need to make the first cut full depth. You can do two or three cuts an inch deep to get the clearance diameter and then do another two or three cuts the next inch deep, repeating until you have clearance to full depth. I'm sure that you have worked this out already!

 

Part of the joy of this game is working out how to do something with the kit you have rather than try finding bigger kit. This is a good one!

 

Have fun!

 

Steve :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the comments about chuck accuracy. In this case I don't think it matters as the dial indicator is still rotating around the spindle axis even if they do not share an axis. The same goes of the boring head; the tool tip should still be transcribing a circle even if the boring arbour and the spindle are not coaxial.

I decided taking multiple nibbles at the bore would be a bit tedious so bought a second hand 1-5/16" drill bit from an online auction site before I went to India for a week. It had arrived on my return so I was able to open the hole out a bit to start with.

IMG_3815s.thumb.jpg.bfc6f24c698deccad899037821da862a.jpg

For the first couple of cuts I had to retract the tool a few times to clear the swarf but the final cut could be taken as a continuous pass as there was a bit more space for the swarf to go.

IMG_3819s.thumb.jpg.7d72326b28b8c2c7428262b62f4ab49c.jpg

I ground another piece of high speed steel to chamfer the hole.

IMG_3826s.thumb.jpg.d8ac2d47fa1d507384fd4482f19a7c4c.jpg

 

And tried the universal joint I had made previously

IMG_3822s.thumb.jpg.bf30d5e0db60a1aded52467767d7fa0d.jpg

Still the other end to do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...