BenHawkins Posted September 3, 2017 Author Share Posted September 3, 2017 I cut the first pair of glued boards to length and used the bearer to mark the gearbox cut out. Then cut it out with a jigsaw. And used a router to bevel the appropriate edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 3, 2017 Author Share Posted September 3, 2017 All the glued boards were trimmed to the same length. Two were clamped together where the window opening goes. The frame was used to mark the opening. The opening was roughed out with a jigsaw and then a flush trim bit was used in the router to follow the frame that was screwed to the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 3, 2017 Author Share Posted September 3, 2017 The edge was then bevelled with the router. The front bearer was shaped in the same way as the rear. I decided to trim out across the whole width of the chassis rather than just for the brake turnbuckle adjuster as it gives better access to the gearbox. Holes were drilled to suit the existing holes in the chassis and counter-bored to suit the bolts I made. I will pick up the paint tomorrow so I can get everything primed and start to build up the layers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 10, 2017 Author Share Posted September 10, 2017 Much of this week has been spent priming all the timber and on a work trip but I have managed to cut the half lap joints between the rear bearer and the cab uprights. Trying them in place I then proceeded to cut out for the horizontal rail that supports the seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 10, 2017 Author Share Posted September 10, 2017 After chiselling out the excess timber. And again checking things go together properly. I have started flatting back the double boards and applying undercoat. The first board is hidden by the seat box so will not be seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chindit Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 thought this may be of interest said to be 1913 dennis rolling chassis ebay number282651745007 not mine chindit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 thought this may be of interest said to be 1913 dennis rolling chassis ebay number282651745007 not mine chindit Thanks for the information, this is a similar chassis to my 1914 lorry.It is nice that somebody considers me a Dennis expert! It is a couple of years since I went to see this chassis; I did quite a reasonable amount of work to try to identify it. Although I was unable to read the chassis number when inspecting, the back axle did have the manufacturing date (June 1913).The measurements tie in exactly with the charabanc drawings and catalogue, but unusually it carries brackets for rear mudguards and had a foot step fitted at some point. The engine mounts are for the White and Poppe engine with separate cylinder blocks like in my 1908 Dennis.The Dennis order book for June 1913 shows a few charabancs but only one supplied without a body (Dennis bodies generally covered the wheels so no rear mudguards were supplied). This bare chassis was supplied to Chapman (of Eastbourne), who operated in the area where the chassis was found. I even have a photo of one of these chassis (they bought two) in front of the Chapman offices and it shows that the body was transferred from another vehicle as it is not quite a perfect fit. It is too expensive for me and from experience I think it could take several decades to find and make the parts to do it justice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 17, 2017 Author Share Posted September 17, 2017 I repeated the procedure of cutting half-lap joints for the ash frame at the front of the seat and checked the fuel tank would still fit with the help of the glamorous assistant At this point I decided it would be a good chance to check the fuel tank did not leak and filled it with water for a couple of hours with no drips. All the joints cut in the ash frame were given a coat of primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 17, 2017 Author Share Posted September 17, 2017 I put some offcuts from the ash bearers on the bed through a planer then trimmed them to fit between the cab bearers. At this point I realised I did not really have any appropriate screws for holding the ash framing together (poor planning on my part!) This has given a chance to move some of the timber to the undercoat stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 For the last pieces of timber to finish the seat box I decided these would go in from the top so that it should be possible to remove the petrol tank without completely dismantling the cab. After scribing the lines I cut as deep as I could with a saw. And chiselled out the material to those lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 They were then finished with a chisel And secured with screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 I scribed lines on for the cut outs in the upper boards that finish the sides of the ash frame. After cutting to depth in a few places with a saw I removed most of the material with the chisel. And did further tidying with a chisel and sand paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 Trying the sides in place. The arched piece for the back of the cab was marked out with a template I had laser cut. And cut out with a jigsaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 The other arch for the roof was cut from the offcut. Both arches were tidied up with a plane and sanding block The half-lap joints were cut in the same way and it was all tried in place for correct fit and so that the cut-outs could be scribed onto the uprights. It was then all dismantled again so the other half of the joints could be cut in the uprights and some of the parts could start getting their coats of paint. That should keep me busy for the next week! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 And did further tidying with a chisel and sand paper. You need one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RECORD-No-311-SHOULDER-REBATE-PLANE-/142514563703?hash=item212e87aa77:g:Rj0AAOSwzx9ZxBBT Or, if feeling flush: https://www.workshopheaven.com/clifton-no-420-shoulder-plane.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 The other arch for the roof was cut from the offcut. Both arches were tidied up with a plane and sanding block The half-lap joints were cut in the same way and it was all tried in place for correct fit and so that the cut-outs could be scribed onto the uprights. It was then all dismantled again so the other half of the joints could be cut in the uprights and some of the parts could start getting their coats of paint. That should keep me busy for the next week! Nice work there Ben And use of chisel & sand/glasspaper to tidy up those notches is correct... The rebating plane suggested would have spelched the wood...as your going against...rather than with the grain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1950 Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 Watching a vehicle come back to life is fasinating. No 2000 tonne presses then. You have mastered many trades to perfection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 Thanks for the comments. I have limited carpentry tools so try to get away with what I have. Might put the shoulder plane on my Christmas list as I think there will be applications for it in the next lorry body build. I have continued to cut the joints in the same way and much of the ash frame has been painted. I put the top planks back in place so I could mark the arc of the roof. This allowed me to scribe a line along the side planks. And plane back to that line to give an approximation of the roof radius. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 Everything was then clamped back together and the diagonal dimensions measured to make sure it was all square before drilling and fitting screws. The side planks still need to be finished off when the supports from the bulkhead are put in place and the roof line marked out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 I have mentioned before that my lathe is a bit too short to bore out the propshaft tube in the conventional fashion. I think I might have a way around this and have machined a bar end of steel to fit the tool holder and tapped it for some clamping bolts. This allows me to mount the propshaft tube from the tool post and support the other end of the tube in a fixed steady. Using a centre indicator to make the tube coaxial with the lathe spindle (using the tool height adjustment and cross slide adjustment to centre the tube) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 I previously machined an M14 thread on the end of a piece of 30mm diameter steel bar so I could screw a small boring head on the end. The first attempt at a small cut was successful until the slide way adjusting screw that protrude from the outside diameter of the boring head crashed into the propshaft tube. Which means the first cut has to be deeper than I would ideally like to clear these screws. I can see the swarf getting in the way as I make the hole over 5 inches deep but we will have to see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Hi Ben. You don't need to make the first cut full depth. You can do two or three cuts an inch deep to get the clearance diameter and then do another two or three cuts the next inch deep, repeating until you have clearance to full depth. I'm sure that you have worked this out already! Part of the joy of this game is working out how to do something with the kit you have rather than try finding bigger kit. This is a good one! Have fun! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 (edited) 3 jaw chucks generally have upto 1 1/2 thou runout Edited October 2, 2017 by flandersflyer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 Thanks for the comments about chuck accuracy. In this case I don't think it matters as the dial indicator is still rotating around the spindle axis even if they do not share an axis. The same goes of the boring head; the tool tip should still be transcribing a circle even if the boring arbour and the spindle are not coaxial. I decided taking multiple nibbles at the bore would be a bit tedious so bought a second hand 1-5/16" drill bit from an online auction site before I went to India for a week. It had arrived on my return so I was able to open the hole out a bit to start with. For the first couple of cuts I had to retract the tool a few times to clear the swarf but the final cut could be taken as a continuous pass as there was a bit more space for the swarf to go. I ground another piece of high speed steel to chamfer the hole. And tried the universal joint I had made previously Still the other end to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 I used my laser cut template to scribe the outline onto a mahogany board. Then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the shape. Then clamped the template to the timber profile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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