introduction Hello from gloucestershire

Hi All

I am thinking of changing my Pig to electronic ignition and was wondering if anyone else has done this and how complicated it is to do.I have had a quote from Classic heads for £197.50+vat,would be very grateful of your comments on this.

 

Nigel.

I believe Clive has and no doubts will reply with accurate advice.

Yes very worthwhile & very easy. I did it for Pig & Hornet. It is not cheap but you do get a machined base plate that would be difficult for most of us to manufacture. They have proved most reliable, there is some coverage here:

http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/IGNITIONMATTERS.pdf

I did not use the fancy coil that was suggested & I did not increase the plug gaps as suggested. You cannot/shouldn't adjust the gaps of RSN13P plugs. I did try increasing the gaps on RSN12Y but found the system was sometimes unreliable because if you make it more difficult for a spark to jump at the plug it may find somewhere else to jump & highlight vulnerabilities in the screened system.

Yes very worthwhile & very easy. I did it for Pig & Hornet. It is not cheap but you do get a machined base plate that would be difficult for most of us to manufacture. They have proved most reliable, there is some coverage here:

 

http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/IGNITIONMATTERS.pdf

 

I did not use the fancy coil that was suggested & I did not increase the plug gaps as suggested. You cannot/shouldn't adjust the gaps of RSN13P plugs. I did try increasing the gaps on RSN12Y but found the system was sometimes unreliable because if you make it more difficult for a spark to jump at the plug it may find somewhere else to jump & highlight vulnerabilities in the screened system.

Thanks Clive,do you need to re set the timing after you have fitted it?

Nigel.

I did reset it Nigel just as a matter of routine housekeeping, adjusting it for maximum smoothness rather than revs. Don't know that it was set up correctly before though.

I've had one of Frank's ignition system in WC51 for about ten years, turn over and she goes. I've also had one in the WC54 which is six volt for the time I've had her, and a friend has one in his 1939 Wolosley. You can get cheaper, but cheap tools etc. I'd recommend them everytime. Easy to fit, no obvious changes to the vehicle, and it works.

I've had one of Frank's ignition system in WC51 for about ten years, turn over and she goes. I've also had one in the WC54 which is six volt for the time I've had her, and a friend has one in his 1939 Wolosley. You can get cheaper, but cheap tools etc. I'd recommend them everytime. Easy to fit, no obvious changes to the vehicle, and it works.

Thanks Clive and Tony,much appreciated,i will be fitting it.

Nigel.

Thanks Clive and Tony,much appreciated,i will be fitting it.

 

 

Nigel.

Could anyone tell me the type of oil I need to put in the steering box of my Humber pig please?

Oc600

Oc600

Thanks Clive,is this like a EP 90?

Yes sort of with 6% rape seed oil

Yes sort of with 6% rape seed oil

Thanks Clive,I don't know what we would all do without you.

Nigel

Thanks Clive,I don't know what we would all do without you.

 

 

Nigel

Struggle..................

Struggle..................

Hopefully someone can enlighten me to what i am doing wrong....i decided to change the fuel pump on my pig as i was starting to get quite a bit of petrol in the oil,so bought a new one from Makano.Fitted it but couldnt pump and fuel through so cleaned out all pipe lines,still no fuel so thought it was a duff and put old one back on and same problem,wish i hadnt bothered.Is there something else i need to do and its not just as simple as swapping them over?Many thanks.

Nigel.

Nigel did you check the new one with your fingers on the inlet & outlet to confirm it pumped?

Strange that the old one won't pump now. Have you tried just turning the engine over a little so that any leverage from the engine is disengaged so that you can get a full depth of leverage when hand pumping?

Nigel did you check the new one with your fingers on the inlet & outlet to confirm it pumped?

 

Strange that the old one won't pump now. Have you tried just turning the engine over a little so that any leverage from the engine is disengaged so that you can get a full depth of leverage when hand pumping?

Hi Clive

I wish i had lived with a little petrol in the oil,seems to be a problem at the fuel change over tap,i have stripped everything out and no fuel seems to be coming through from either tank,there was me thinking it would be a simple swap.It must be bad luck or maybe ive got something down the end of the pipe when it was open.Will go at it tomorrow again now ive had enough for today.

Nigel.

Hi Clive

I wish i had lived with a little petrol in the oil,seems to be a problem at the fuel change over tap,i have stripped everything out and no fuel seems to be coming through from either tank,there was me thinking it would be a simple swap.It must be bad luck or maybe ive got something down the end of the pipe when it was open.Will go at it tomorrow again now ive had enough for today.

 

Nigel.

With the pump off, squirt some petrol in the inlet port and hand prime with finger over the inlet side, my guess is the valves are dry and not sealing. I always test a pump for suction and pressure before fitting.

Nigel well better to sort it out now than at the roadside.

Even with a tiny amount of fuel in the sump I once heard a loud bang & it projected the dip stick 30-40 ft into the air.

When did you last check that the fuel filter is not all gunged up?

Be wary of the washer on the bleed valve on the top of the fuel filter. I have had tiny leakage through that preventing fuel being drawn in.

Is this on a Mk 1? Check that the fuel tank breathers aren't blocked. I had to remove some Prestikon that had ingressed from wading preparation.

Is this on a Mk 2? Be wary of the non-return valve that both tanks vent through as that can be a haven for spider gunge.

Nigel well better to sort it out now than at the roadside.

 

Even with a tiny amount of fuel in the sump I once heard a loud bang & it projected the dip stick 30-40 ft into the air.

 

When did you last check that the fuel filter is not all gunged up?

 

Be wary of the washer on the bleed valve on the top of the fuel filter. I have had tiny leakage through that preventing fuel being drawn in.

 

Is this on a Mk 1? Check that the fuel tank breathers aren't blocked. I had to remove some Prestikon that had ingressed from wading preparation.

 

Is this on a Mk 2? Be wary of the non-return valve that both tanks vent through as that can be a haven for spider gunge.

It's the mark 2,thanks Clive and Richard.

Nigel.

It's the mark 2,thanks Clive and Richard.

 

Nigel.

Pig up and running again after hours,cleaned out all fuel lines and filter and have had to bypass the changeover valve which was the problem,has anyone replaced them with a landrover one,i know it will alter which tank you use with the lever but would it work?

Nigel.

Welcome! Another Gloucestershire man! The more the merrier!,,,

we have Martians in our village.... Lol

Nigel glad its running now.

I think the pipe terminations are different but the LR switch is much taller so is going to be an awful lot of fiddling. You'd be much better off repairing the original, I assume it is punched disc of cork which shouldn't be too difficult to replicate.

Although if it altered the tank switching direction that would be an advantage as (for ease of plumbing) the switching is not as one would expect in the Pig. On prototype Pigs it was logical but on production the direction of the switch changed.

Unfortunately when mine was "upgraded" to the later plumbing nobody thought to change the electrical switching, which as you can see is quite complex. So during its later military service the fuel gauge always displayed the fuel level in the tank not being used!

Nigel glad its running now.

 

I think the pipe terminations are different but the LR switch is much taller so is going to be an awful lot of fiddling. You'd be much better off repairing the original, I assume it is punched disc of cork which shouldn't be too difficult to replicate.

 

Although if it altered the tank switching direction that would be an advantage as (for ease of plumbing) the switching is not as one would expect in the Pig. On prototype Pigs it was logical but on production the direction of the switch changed.

 

Unfortunately when mine was "upgraded" to the later plumbing nobody thought to change the electrical switching, which as you can see is quite complex. So during its later military service the fuel gauge always displayed the fuel level in the tank not being used!

Thanks Clive,looks like i will be repairing the original one then.

Nigel.

Thanks Clive,looks like i will be repairing the original one then.

 

Nigel.

Electronic ignition kit turned up for the pig this morning so a few questions to anyone who has fitted one before i start.

1.The module is designed to be used in 12 volt negative ground system,the pig is 24v.

2.What is a HEI COIL?

3.Is there a ballast resistor on a pig.

Sorry if these are simple questions but want to be clear on everything before i start.

Thanks.

Nigel.

Is this the one from Jolley with the machined aluminium base plate?

If so there is coverage at this end of this : http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/IGNITIONMATTERS.pdf

There is a ballast resistor (two actually) that are shorted out on start up to supply 24v to the coil. Thereafter the coil is supplied with 12v.

I assume HEI COIL means High Energy Ignition Coil. I wouldn't bother just use the module as a direct replacement for the contact breaker.

The module needs to be energised by 24v but it can switch 12v or 24v, in the same way that a 24v relay needs 24v but doesn't mind if switches lower voltages.

Is this the one from Jolley with the machined aluminium base plate?

 

If so there is coverage at this end of this : http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/IGNITIONMATTERS.pdf

 

There is a ballast resistor (two actually) that are shorted out on start up to supply 24v to the coil. Thereafter the coil is supplied with 12v.

 

I assume HEI COIL means High Energy Ignition Coil. I wouldn't bother just use the module as a direct replacement for the contact breaker.

 

The module needs to be energised by 24v but it can switch 12v or 24v, in the same way that a 24v relay needs 24v but doesn't mind if switches lower voltages.

Hi Clive

Thanks for the quick response,yes it is a Jolley one with the aluminium base plate,so should be a straight swap then.

Nigel.