restoration UAZ 469 joins the fleet (at last!)

So - the indicators continue to be a nightmare of epic proportions. I tried hooking up the terminals in the one 5 pin to the the 3 pins in the small socket on the PSC950 relay. Net result was - depending on the way the cables were connected either the right or the left indicators came on and stayed on - and the relay got rather hot.

What complicates it is the absolute lack of diagrams for the actual relay which makes a total rewire of the indicator system almost impossible to do with a test lamp and a multimeter.

This is how the actual circuits in the vehicle look:

The 8 pin connector to the left is the one that is plugged into the PC950 the one to the right is just hanging under the dash without a home.

This is how I tried hooking up the connectors:

Result = fail :cry: :cry:

The terminals in the relay are marked - but again - I can find nothing that tells me what the symbols mean in terms of connections!

Ah well - on the plus point the number plate carrier for the UK plate is nearly ready to fit - all the holes were drilled/cut as required today so now it just needs a few coats of paint and all is done.

Work progresses but now held up waiting on parts. That's the big problem with East Block vehicles - popping down the local auto shop isn't an option (want a laugh - try walking into H*lf*rds and asking for part for a UAZ!!) and you have to wait for responses further delayed by the fact most suppliers have yet to embrace e-Commerce so you have to order parts, wait for them to e-mail a price plus shipping plus how to pay - then once payment is made wait a week or so for delivery!! Still - that is part of the charm of owning the vehicles :-)

Anyways - the number plate carrier and light is now fitted and both number plate lights are working so if I opt to fit the Soviet mil-plates on the lower position it will also be illuminated. I am thinking of fitting a switch in the tool box so that I can use either or rather than both as now.

With that done and with the paperwork sent off to DVLA for the V5 I turned attention back to the indicators. After lots of question asking I finally got hold of the pin-outs for PC950 relay AND found out why I have two 8 pin multi-plugs. There should be an early hazard warning switch fitted somewhere! A lot more digging on the web has turned up a supplier for the BK422 type warning switch so I have ordered one and now wait for delivery. Same with the PC950 as , cabling mine up according to the pin outs got no result whatsoever, indicating the relay is FUBAR.

Taking apart and it seems the reason why is plain going by the amount of corrosion visible on the circuit boards.

I am told it is repairable by some one with electronic skills - alas that is NOT me right now!! So I am trying to order a new one - not helped by a bug on the supplying forms website that apparently submits an order for fog lights instead of the required relay. Working to sort this out now.

As I was held up on the electrics I returned to cosmetics ad fitted the new rear mud flaps - joy of joys the holes in the carriers did not match the holes in the flaps so I had to make new holes in the rubber. Then I found the carriers were rather more bent and distorted than I though but some physical "persuading" got them more or less into shape so they fitted approximately where they should!

Then a delivery arrived from one of the Russian suppliers containing the new fusebox and under-bonnet work light. These were soon fitted and a momentary problem with lack of power to the #3 fuse was quickly remedied by actually pushing it home into its slot. :-D

Speedo head has been marked with MPH divisions in case inspection is required - having got it done I found out from the guys on the Russian Truck forum there was someone making an overlay for the speedo Still - at least it is done in case it needs checking before the overlay can be obtained.

Work is now on hold again waiting for more parts to arrive or for firms to respond so that orders can be placed. Another thing I need to address is finding a way of stopping the soft top letting in more water than it keeps out - I am thinking perhaps applying tent seam sealer to the roof seams might do the trick - I opened the doors yesterday after the nights heavy rain to find the inside resembling a swimming pool!

In a rare dry spell I managed to apply seam sealer to the back half of the roof - and ever since its been under test 'cos it hasn't stopped raining heavily since!!

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Seam sealer is working - roof is dry inside as is the back of the UAZ now. Still wet in front where it is blowing through the knackered window and quarterlight seals but its a big stop forwards to a drier UAZ

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Package from Russian Spares arrived today - new indicator relay, oil pressure switch, door handles inner, mirrors and new outer door handles (lockable).

Fitted the new relay in place of the old one and still nothing. Then I noticed the red light on the dash didn't come on when the ignition key was on. Further checking revealed the fuel gauge didn't respond either and that led to the discovery of no power to the instruments. Seemed a bit odd so I traced the power supply back to the under-bonnet fuse box and made sure nothing was broken. I had continuity back to the bottom of the #2 fuse but a volts check revealed no power to this terminal. #1 and #3 were working fine and I remembered from the wiring diagrams that the power feed for #2was jumpered across from #1. First thought was I had put the fuse box in upside down but looking at the old one there were no internal connectors behind the front. At which point I noticed a metal strip across the front between #1 and #2. Looked at the new panel and it was missing there so I removed the screws from the old panel to find that this strip was also in fact removable - so I did. Fitted it to the new fuse panel and everything jumped into life.

Embarrassing lesson of the day - do not assume that because every other vehicle I've had that had split power supplies relied on internal paths an Eastern Block vehicle will do the same!!

This was the missing part:

And this is where it was meant to have gone:

With that sorted I turned attention back to the indicators. After pushing one or two of the male connectors on the patch leads back into the vehicles multi-plugs the Right indicators burst into life - at least front and rear did, not the side repeaters so I need to see if there is power to that. Nothing on the left side though so to prove things out I hooked up the right output from the column switch to the left circuit and these then worked. Again no side repeater though. I know the cables belled out OK so I think it must be a poor contact between the bulb and the terminal.

[video=youtube_share;8MaphmnhV3g]

There are a few indicator switches on eBay so will probably get one there. RS are taking about 13 days for deliveries. Still waiting for the hazard switch to arrive ( there was one included with the order from RS - but the wrong type - needs a round multi-plug) - apparently it was shipped from St Petersburg on the 16th. One that is here I can get rid of all the patch leads and refit the relay properly.

A question for other owners - what size screws are used to held the rear of the central scuttle flap down??

Coming on in leaps and bounds chap!

Right when you are done I have an FFR needing lots of electrics sorting...what time should I put the kettle on? :D:D

Compared to this thing the electrics on my S3 FFR was a walk in the park 😀

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We had a very late courier delivery today - circa 21:00 Hrs - which turned out to be the BK422-12 hazard switch from Retrodetail in St Petersburg:

So tomorrow I'll try fitting that and see how things work. In theory I should get all 4 indicators happily flashing and if I do then I know the column switch is FUBAR and needs replacing. Then the question will have to be where the hell does it go?? All the switch holes are accounted for!

Fitted the switch today and - hey presto - instant working indicators, left and right, as well as hazzards!!

Electrically all that leaves now is the side repeaters to sort out, the feeds to the heater fan from the new switch and checking the engine sensors.

Unfortunately the Achilles heel of the UAZ 469 has struck again - the fuel pump isn't pumping any more!! So that will now need to come off and get repaired so the engine can be run up to temp and the sensors tested.

What about the indicators on the bonnet? They don't seem to be working.

Nice restoration thread. Since I was a kid - I always wanted UAZ and MZ motorcycle. Ended up owning Series 2 Landy and Can-Am bike.

Greetings

Eryk

Thats what he calls the side repeaters

Thats what he calls the side repeaters

Thanks, that makes sense. Time for me to go and learn some English.

Greetings

Eryk

Well - back from holidays and now ready to bang in the last order of parts to Tarmot over in Poland - basically new door bottoms plus some odd bits and pieces to finish it off.

In the meantime the organisation we all love based in Swansea are at it again. A couple of weeks before the holiday I sent off the request for the V5 - I came home to a nice thick letter and thought " Oooh - V5 and the paperwork to get the chassis number they have on record stamped into the chassis"

Wrong! - it was a actually a series of forms relating to building a kit car asking what was changed from normal, what had been done with the old parts, what the numbers were on the engine, transmission, axles, steering etc. - In short a form V894 and a form V627/1.

So I've filled these in as best I can, pointing out that in fact the vehicle is more or less original with original parts, not modified in any way and now will wait and see what form(s0 they send out next!!!

Time for a works update

I finally found the MPH overlay I bought after reading the thread on here - the wife had one of her more successful "tidy up" operations and tidied it away out of sight and mind and it turned up today.

I had already had a go at marking the speed divisions on with masking tape - looked OK but there were no figures for the MPH values on the dial:

So I removed the masking tape strips, cleaned the surface thoroughly with Meths and marked on the rough centre line to help positioning as there is an opaque carrier film on the overlay:

Then I sprayed the surface with water mixed with a couple of drops of washing up liquid as recommended after trimming the overlay to the printed circle (note - this is actually smaller than the instrument dia - if I were to do it again I would trim it oversize and use a scalpel to trim down once fitted). Using the thumb and a hankie I smoothed out all the air bubbles and, as it dried peeled off the carrier paper leaving the speedo looking like this:

Doesn't look too bad - I aligned the dot in the centre with the centre of the need and the little tab at the top with the 60 mark as well as ensuring they both lined up with the centre line markings. Should be good one the road (if I ever get there) and easily visible,

Latest update - and it is good news!! I got another letter from the DVLA today - this time telling me they cannot find any record of the original VIN/Chassis number for my UAZ on their system. However they accept the photographic proofs submitted and have issued me a new VIN/Chassis number. All I now have to do is get a garage to stamp it onto the chassis and the ID plate then rubber stamp and sign the letter to say it's been done. I then return the letter and get a V5 back to be road legal!! :-) :-) :-)

The work progresses! I refitted the speedo the other day - looks quite good with the overlay and it is easily visible whilst on the move. More on that later.

Roughly the same time as the Landie died the UAZ also stopped working.. It would fire up whilst spinning over but as soon as the key was released it would die. I thought at first it was the fuel pump again, these being the Achilles heel of the vehicles and when I tried the manual prime I would get maybe 2 or 3 pumps before it would go slack. However when I disconnected the fuel line from the carb and popped it into a jar I pumped about 1/4 litre of fuel with no problems. This kind of ruled out the fuel system as a problem so I asked the question over on the Russian Truck Forum. There I learnt that the UAZ effectively has 2 ignition systems - one for when the engine is cranking and one for when it is running. Obviously the cranking system was OK so the fault must lay with the running one. it was suggested that the ballast resistor on the coil might be faulty however on inspection it turned out the coild did not have a ballast resistor - it wasn't even a UAZ coil but a Lucas one!!

It did run though and still fired up on the ignition side of the circuit so I traced the wire back to it's source - the under bonnet fuse box and had a look there. The feed to the coil came from #1 fuse - which was blown.

So I rewired it and tried to start again (yes - UAZ fuses still use fuse wire!!). Still no joy and rechecking the fuse was found to be blown again. So I went indoors and got out the various wiring diagrams to see what else could be blowing the fuse. I was considerably to surprised to find one of the very very few points the diagrams agreed on was that the feed to the coil should come from the top connector of fuse #2, not the bottom of fuse #1 Checking both fuses revealed #'1 to be rated at 6A and #2 at 10 A. So I switched the feed to the coil over to the top of '#2 and tried again. Now the UAZ ran sweet as a nut!!

At this point I noticed a big puddle of rusty water under the vehicle and no sign of a leak for the engine or radiator. More questions elicited the information that for some odd reason in heavy rain the bell housing will fill with water and soon as the engine starts the fly wheel throws it all out!! So the next operation was to drill a hole as low down in the back of the bell housing as possible. Hopefully now it will just drain straight out....

Now the engine was riunning again I made the appointment to go to the garage and get the chassis number supplied by DVLA stamped on. The vehicle was already insured under the registration number so I made up some temporary plates from the laser Printer using the character set defined by VOSA an tied them on the proceeded to drive the couple of miles to the garage. First issue was i could not engage gear..... Thinking back to Stolly days I immediately suspected a stuck clutch from the damp so I stuck it reverse and tried to start it. That did the trick and I could select all 4 gears. So off I set. The ride was surprisingly good - considering it is "Vorspung durch cartsping teknolgie" as is the Landrover the ride was a lot smoother, especially over speed humps and with less tendency to wander on the road./

The problems were the rear view - which is absolutely appalling with no door mirrors fitted and the hood up/door tops fitted,the fact the only instrument that was working was the ammeter and the speedo needle was flickering quite badly.

Oh - and the brakes are sticking - a couple of people got nasty surpises when riding too close behind at red lights as when I lifted off the throttle the UAZ stopped, Dead.

The Garage did the necessary and stamped up the form which as now been sent back to DVLA so hopefully sometime in the future I will get the V5 issued so I can go get some proper plates made up. The journey home was also without incident mechanically.

Once home I had a look at the no working instruments. It was either going to be the senders or the gauges and dome of the senders are not in the most accessible of places so for ease I swapped out the centre instrument cluster with a new one I had got hold of a while ago. Took a couple of hours to swap all the connections over but once done I restarted the engine. Result!! You can see in the video below the oil pressure gauge responds immediately and the water temp gauge starts to come up after a few minutes running at idle. However - towards the end of the clip note the fuel gauge!

As regards the fuel gauge - one tank has 10 litres in, the other has 20 litres - I believe the tanks are 45 litres each so I should be seeing about 1/4 tank and 1/2 tank respectively, not the values shown on the gauge in the video clip. So I think the tank senders are FUBAR and a request is in for new ones from Tarmot in Poland. Same goes for the tank changeover tap in the floor as mine is frozen solid. Once these are done then the instruments will be 100%. Just waiting for the big order from Poland as it includes new doors, the third warning light for the dash and lot of other bits and pieces.

Again hopefully the first time out to an event should be to a Cold War Cars event in April - if I get the paperwork in time.

Almost there now :cool2:

Finally I have the new registration mark from DVLA - contacted the insurers who changed the policy without any issues. But - true to form - the www.askmid.com database still has not been updated!! :-( I spoke to the insurers again today and for the third time they have sent the notification through. It's almost impossible to get the UAZ taxed without the database as its all on-line now. If it's not done by Wednesday the insurers have said to ring them back and they will start lighting fires under the Askmid data entry people.

On more practical things - the starter decided to go "lazy" such that I could spin the engine faster on the starting handle than the starter motor could manage. Got hold of a known good second hand one - to get the old one out and the new one in the distributor clamp had to be loosened and the fuel pump removed! Not the greatest design in the world!!

It now starts again although the motor is still slow so - when the bloody rain stops again I will have the earthing strap off and clean it and the contact point up to see if that helps.

New fuel senders arrived and have been fitted. Unfortunately the wife threw the old ones away as I left them indoors which is a bit of a buggery as the new ones seem to have "issues". If I hook up the multimeter I get a resistance value at one extreme - low tank - of 9.3 ohms and at the other extreme - full tank - of 94.9 ohms. However on the continuity setting I get a tone from the 9.4 ohm position up to 46.8 Ohms - just over the half tank mark. Which explains why on the drivers side tank which is about 1/4 full the gauge reads but on the passenger side which is about 3/4 full the gauge is apparently open circuit. See video clip:

I have 12 v at each of the sender leads and if I swap the senders over the gauge reads the same. I have contacted the suppliers to see if they can shed any light. At the moment the gauges will only read when the fuel level drops down to about 1/2 tank so the vehicle is useable.

Had to replace a front seat as when I removed the drivers side the base frame was broken and thus unsafe. Both seats had to come out to gain full access to the senders.

When I did get the UAZ to restart after fitting the starter and a correct fine fuel filter i then found the brake lights were on all the time! So I have a nasty feeling that the brake light switch took damage when the starter came out as it dropped.

Apart from this the side indicator repeaters still need to be sorted out and there are some odd jobs that need to be done but which are awaiting parts from Poland.

Oh - and the local immigrant gang emptied brake fluid into the rear load bed - neighbours saw them gathered around the back of the vehicle a couple of weeks ago and when I looked there is just a mess where the paint used to be. So my already minimal tolerance for this multi-culturalism business has reduced even further.

Finally!! The UAZ is now street legal in terms of tax ans documentation/insurance. It's taken over a fortnight to get the on-line insurance database to accept the details - Footman James have spoken to them no less than three times! But at last today iot is showing up as insured on-line. So I went to do the road tax wondering how the new system will handle MOT exempt vehicles and found to my surprise and pleasure DVLA have already taxed it till 30thMay 2016.

So - once the little niggles (i.e, number plates, brake lights) are sorted I can start cruising around town.. :yay::yay:

Number plates on order now - got them from Jepsons as they did a deal for the two UAZ plates and the Sankey one. Just need to sort out the brake light switch and all is go. Right now the brake lights are staying on - the switch is an in-line one and I am told the classic Mini type is a direct replacement although I am waiting for verification of this before spending the ££'s

Numbers arrived and fitted so now technically legal to drive on the road :-)

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New brake light switch also ordered - aBay.de of course :-)

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Brake light switch arrived and went to fit it - which is where I found the union was not bolted to the securing bracket but floating loose. As a result a rigid brake line split due to the flexing that resulted. Took a day to get both front lines off in 40 deg C temps - not fun at all!! New lines now made and need to be refitted and the brakes re-bled.

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Brake light switch arrived and went to fit it - which is where I found the union was not bolted to the securing bracket but floating loose. As a result a rigid brake line split due to the flexing that resulted. Took a day to get both front lines off in 40 deg C temps - not fun at all!! New lines now made and need to be refitted and the brakes re-bled.

 

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The fun of working in the heat...

Just about to go for the first ever legal test drive on the reg plates :-)

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Enjoy, at least it is a bit cooler at the moment.