ArtistsRifles Posted July 8, 2015 Author Share Posted July 8, 2015 I did Tony Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 And! Due to warm up again, so you'll have the excuse for driving about Topless! (Vehicle that is, don't want to scare the great unwashed! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Been a while since I updated this so here goes. :undecided: The UAZ ran well and get me to W&P OK, running around all week, the mud did not challenge it at all. It was a bit of a faff to get into 4WD but once Nick from Trappers showed me the trick of it all was well. The only problems I had all week were the fact the brakes bind something viscous when used in an emergency - so much so it almost turns 90 degrees to the right. And the fuel gauge is weird!! According to the gauge I had 1/3 of a tank and on the way back from collecting my daughter at the station it ran out of fuel!! Luckily a chap in a Daf YA towed me back on site and I nipped out in the Landie to get more fuel. Left the UAZ parked up at the edge of Kitchener's Field on the Sunday night with some other vehicles and when I came back to get it on Monday morning the drivers side mirror was shattered. One thing noted at the show was how much of a pain it was putting the hood up and down - it bolts onto the windscreen header bar and the bolts have to be removed completely so if it rains - as it did and you need to get the hood back on- you get very wet!! And when it does rain the top of the roof makes a lovely pond that either soaks you as you open the door or puts so much stress on the seams that they leak too and pulls the top of the rear window seal away from the glass. After returning from W&P I swapped out the fuel pick-ups to try and get it working from the passenger side tank too. This meant modifying the fuel lines as the new ones were push one whereas the old ones had threaded unions. Simple solution was to cut a short length off of the lines and replace with flexible fuel line. Thus far its working OK. Because of this I missed taking it to Laycok at War but it was ready in time for Bratton a few weeks later. Left home early in the morning to get there and about 3 miles from home a metallic squealing started from somewhere up front that got worse and worse so I elected to abort the trip and head back home. next day I borrowed the daughter Mk 1 and went for a short spin around the block whilst she listened for the source of the noise. When we got back she said it was coming from behind the dash - the only rotating thing there is the speedo cable so I disconnected it and tried again - sure enough no more squeak. Ordered a new cable from an eBay supplier and fitted it. The week after was Red Oktober day at the Ace Cafe so I took the UAZ there. And the squealing started again... I noticed this time that when it squealed the the speedo reading was a lot different (faster) than the sat nav speed. At time the sat nav read 30 mph (50 Kph) but the speedo was reading 120 Kph!!! :shocked: Then on the way home I noticed the face of the speedo was starting to rotate inside the case!! By the time I got home it had competed 2.5 rotations!! So - new speedo ordered and now is waiting for the rain to stop so it can be fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Finally got around to fitting the new speed n a dry spell a few days agao. Usual nightmare job trying to access the nuts holding the speedo retaining bracket in place - obviously the Russians had never heard of thumb wheels but finally got the seized unit out. Went to refit the new one and found a major problem. The fittings for the panel light and high beam warning light were different sizes to the old one. Damn!!! Now I have to try and get hold of the right size bulb holders..... :cry: Old speedo head New speedo head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted July 8, 2016 Author Share Posted July 8, 2016 Finally managed to source a pair of bulb holders to fit the new style speedo head! As i ordered them I noted the availability of LED buls so as I am fitting these to the landie I thought I give them a whirl in the UAZ too. Bulb holders arrived today and are now wired into the vehicle. The original bolt-through connectors for the feed have been replaced with Lucars to match the holders and, as the holders now have a separate earth terminals, not earthing through the casing like the old ones did, I have made up two short earth leads with lucars one end and ring terminals the other that can be fitted over the clamp bolts for the speedo. Again now just waiting for the bulbs to arrive and it can all be bolted back together.:-) Photos to follow when the bulbs arrive. Also have a clutch plate on order from RussianSpares.com which I hope - desperately - will arrive before W&P so that it can be fitted at the show. Still no sign of the remaining two doors, door tops, latches and handles. :-( :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 LED bulbs arrived today - and are too large to fit the apertures. Sales info said they were 12mm dis max - reality is nearer 12.5mm. Oh well - put them to one side, might be able to use them else where and fitted the old bulbs. Fitted the new holders to the speed and connected up the feed wires the went to fit the speedo into the dash. ****!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The new speedo casing is a larger dia than the existing hole! I am seriously pissed right now - this must also cast doubt on the calibration too :mad: :mad: :mad: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 New speedo arrived from Russia the Weds befor W&P so I fitted it and tested - all was OK. However on the way down to W&P on the Sat, just as I was approaching J5 on the M20 cruising along at 70 kph there was a god awful bang from under the vehicle followed by the sound of something banging on the road. Pulled over onto the hard shoulder PDQ followed by the OH who had seen bits fly out from under the UAZ - and who in turn was followed by a police car who had only seen the large fan of mud thrown up and wondered what the hell had happened. Closer examination underneath revealed the handbrake drum had exploded and the cloud of mud was from W&P last year, being dislodged by the flailing prop shaft before it dropped onto the road. Had to get recovered home by the RAC - coulomb have just removed the prop and carried on using the front axle but then I'd have had no handbrake all week which did not seem the wise thing to do. Waiting to hear back from Nick at Trappers as to the price of a new drum and prop shaft. Could have been a lot worse, at least it never emulated a pogo stick!! What's left of the hand brake. Front of Prop shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 Prop shaft now removed and ready for the new-ish one to arrive from Trappers along with the hand brake drum and a set of shoe retainers. Handbrake shoes now back in place and the drum retaining screws are out and stored safely. Remains of two sheared off bolts safely removed via Ez-Out so all is ready to fit replacement parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 Parts arrived from Trapper this afternoon so it was out and under time. First thing found was that the cross-member stops you getting the hand brake drum on. So out come the spanners to remove the cross-member. What is is with Russians and using different size nuts to the bolt heads?? 19mm spanner on the nut, 17mm on the head. Bolts came out easily enough given the corrosion and mud caking them. Getting the cross member off was a different story and required the application of brute force fuelled by anger. Once it was off I fitted the shoe retainers that were missing - and then found that the brake shoes had sustained a bit more damage than I thought. but not enough to stop them working. I also found one of the return springs was missing from the anchored end of the passenger side shoe. This I will have to live with for now. A bit of faffing - first with the adjuster and then the lever saw the drum go one - and then the red mist descended again. Is it too much to ask that the holes for the retaining screws actually line up with the threaded holes in the gearbox flange?? A LOT more faffing later the brake drum was on so I went to fit the prop - and found the biggest bolts I had were M8 whereas the bolts needed were M10! That's where things ended. Prop is temporarily bolted to the axle and the nose is propped up in one of the cross-member brackets. Did I mention the rear prop bolts need two different size spanners too?? Bolts are ordered from Namrick so as soon as they arrive I'll whip the bolts out of the rear U/J and fit it properly then refit the cross member. I am really hoping to use it for Military World this weekend so fingers crossed the bolts arrive in time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 What is is with Russians and using different size nuts to the bolt heads? At a guess, it's so you don't need two of every spanner to be able to undo everything; which is always an exercise in frustration when you're out in the middle of a field somewhere, and it's always something you can't get a socket on either end of... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Crawled under today with a set of M10 taps to check the thread pitch. I suppose it was inevitable but - of the 4 holes three were M10x1.0 and one was M10x1.25!! So I have ordered 4 bolts in each type from Namrick. Hopefully they will be here Tuesday so I can get the prop back on and use it for Military Odyssey next weekend. Fingers crossed!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted August 30, 2016 Author Share Posted August 30, 2016 New bolts arrived but before fitting the prop shaft I thought I would see how the drum was running as it did not appear to look right. Started the engine, stuck it into 2ED 4th and crawled under - you can see the result in the video link: [video=youtube;OYw5o-k4scY] Seconds after I finished filming there was one louder clonk and the drum stopped rotating. Closer inspection showed the two securing screws laying on the floor - one intact, one sheared off. So I am forced to assume that the output shaft from the transmission got bent when the prop let go at 70 kph on the M20. :( So until I can find out if the output shaft can be replaced or if I need a new transmission the vehicle is immobilised (yes - I know I can put the drive into 4WD and leave it in gear to off-set the no handbrake - but it seems a bit of a dodgy thing to do).. And now the vehicle is immobilised the final packages arrived from Poland today. Only 2 months short of being 2 years from the date of order. So at least I can get on with fitting these now until I find a solution to the being immobilised bit. The delivery: All unpacked Light damage in transit that will need sorting Soviet equivalent of the Butler inspection lamp found in British MV tool kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10FM68 Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 Some time ago I promised you a picture of my 2003 Uaz, which was the second one I have owned. Sadly, I had to sell it a few years ago, but I brought it in to UK in 2004 and put it through an SVA to get it registered so you will notice one or two oddities, such as the bumper with rounded-off ends and rubber covers on all the door hinges. There were too many protrusions and it failed its first appearance on 22 points! I was seriously worried as I feared that I now had a lump of useless metal which I could neither drive nor sell! But the tester was excellent and he told me exactly how I could sort each one out and it passed at the next showing. It also has the plastic under-wing liners to keep at least some of the tyre splash and dirt out of the nooks and crannies. I found the windows rather constraining so drove it mostly with the door tops off even in winter. This one had an Andoria diesel engine fitted as standard and coils on the front and parabolics on the rear. It was a good ride. I exchanged the original Russian seats for the Polish ones I took out of my old one. They were supplied by Tarmot and were much better quality and a lot more comfortable than they looked. Best 10 68 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted August 31, 2016 Author Share Posted August 31, 2016 Looks like a nice one :-) The wheels - I take it they were not standard UAZ either?? All the ones I've seen have be solid, not perforated. Never had to worry about SVA on mine - it had already been registered prior to the introduction of SVA so it is pretty much factory standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10FM68 Posted August 31, 2016 Share Posted August 31, 2016 Looks like a nice one :-) The wheels - I take it they were not standard UAZ either?? All the ones I've seen have be solid, not perforated. Never had to worry about SVA on mine - it had already been registered prior to the introduction of SVA so it is pretty much factory standard. No, wheels are standard, though they were white (as you can see from the inner rim front OS) Tyres aren't though as the originals didn't last very well, but they're the closest I could get. Freewheel hub is also original. 10 68 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted September 14, 2016 Author Share Posted September 14, 2016 I went to start replacing the doors today. The two new doors shells are primed and painted on the insides so I thought it would be a fairly simple job to swap them over. Cue demonic laugher!!!! Opted to start with the passenger front door. First thing I note is there is only one bolt in the bottom hinge. OK - that's got to be a broken bolt and once the other three were out and the check strap undone lo and behold it was indeed a broken bolt. Opted to leave that for the time being/ Also the torn metal at the leading edge of where the top hinge bolts thinking that I'd get the doors on first and then sort these issues out when I do the externals. Go to offer up the new door - and half the top hinge is bloody missing!!! After a few moments of turning the air a vivid shade of blue I thought - OK lets drift the pin out and use the old hinge section instead. Got to be common. Hah!! Over an hour later I come to the conclusion than none of the pins are going to come out easily. I am assuming they get knocked out downwards because on the bottom of each pin is a grease nipple. So I wound up out of time and having to put the old door back on again. Decidedly unamused!! Door painted internally and ready to fit. Bottom hinge Top hinge - spot the difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted September 27, 2016 Author Share Posted September 27, 2016 Life is seldom simple or so the saying goes, UAZ seem to have taken this to heart and almost made it a motto of the company! Started fitting the new doors the other day - the two drivers side doors were shipped more or less complete, only the screws holding the handles on appeared to be missing. So - drivers door first. It was easy enough unbolting the old door and it's top piece . Bolting the new one on single handed less so as the pull handle is missing on the new door, The door release catch sits where it would be on the old doors. So it tends to swing about making it extremely difficult to align the holes in the hinges with the screw plates in the door pillar. Managed to get it on at last then having worked out how the latch part works bolted one of these on in place of the old. First issue came in that the new plates are meant to be held on by countersunk screws not hex head bolts. making it necessary to remove the top bolt for the latch to attempt to close. New doors have the rubber seals on the outer edges and it is a BITCH to get it to close onto the latch plate. And when I did do it the plate pivoted on the bottom bolt so right now the door is held shut be a rope across to the passenger grab handle I need to order some countersunk head bolts - I think M6 threads to hold these latch plates securely. [/url] Next problem came with the door tops. Laid the rubber infills I had made for the old doors in place - and the outer bolt holes for the door tops seem to be some 12mm closer in to the centre bolts holes that the old ones. I had to enlarge the bolt clearance's in the rubber strip inwards to compensate. With the door top bolted on the next issue became all too apparent. The new style door tops do not have the rubber seal strip around the edges the old ones do So it does not seal onto the fabric roof or - worse - the upright of the roof frame between the doors. Fortunately I had ordered a set of 4 replacement rubbers and the little rivets that secure them so I think I will have to modify the new sliding glass door tops to suit having these rubber seals fitted. I have yet to see how an old door top lines up with the bolt holes on a new door bottom - if they do not match as I think they will not then I might have to get replacement door tops for the rear doors too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 Forget the Knocker for a few months , the UAZ need that bit extra bull - http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/video_and_audio/headlines/38200973 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 UAZ suffers the same problem as the Knocker right now - its outdoors and the weather is not conducive to working on it. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 Sunshine is back so work resumed on the UAZ. Well - should have been down Weston at the Helicopter Museum playing with a Hind with the rest of Red Alliance Team UK but unfortunately the Range Rover disgraced itself a week and a half ago by first having the starter fail whilst on the brake test rollers for it's MoT then having the ABS ECU suffer a failure - I am still waiting for it to come back - and dreading the bill!! But I digress....... Yesterday I had another go at the new door. Readers may remember last year I got 4 new doors from Tarmot. They could not source the original slam lock doors so I had to go for the new style with anti-burst locks. Got the drivers door on but could not get it to close fully. After a few hours faffing about slackening off the hinge bolts and pulling/lifting I got to the point where it would finally close all the way. But - the locks will not engage fully. I have manage to get it to the point where the lock semi-engages and holds the door shut. But one good thump from inside the vehicle makes it pop open. Than I refitted the door top - and found again I had to lift the door for it to shut - but now it will not open on the exterior handle. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvlX3ZqPTpo (dedicated YouTube tags not working for some reason!) Something went wrong... Today I had a go at the handbrake again. I got a replacement set of shoes and back plate from Trapper Industrys to see if that cures the problems I had with the new drum. Striped the old shoes off - and found 1 return spring missing - then found I cannot remove the back plate unless I first remover the rear drive flange from the gearbox output shaft!! And of course - its an odd sized nut - calipers measure it a at 27.5mm across the flats. And sod law dictates I did not have a socket or a spanner that size in my collection - so work had to end. Getting the hump with UAZ designers!! :mad::mad: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Your hex. nut sounds like a Russian manuf. 5/8" Whitworth / 11/16" BSF ( = 27.94mm / 1.1" ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted April 22, 2017 Author Share Posted April 22, 2017 (edited) So - got a 27mm socket and removed the nut and the the drive flange. Removed the old back plate and close inspection revealed it was well and truly bent out of shape. Went to fit the replacement back plate - and only one of the holes lined up. Cue screaming session!!:mad::mad: Couple of days later a fellow ex-trog from the RCT helped me out by letting me use his pillar drill to re-drill the new plate with the hole in the right place then a little file work had the back plate bolted on. I replaced the flange and the 27mm nut and rebuilt the hand brake. Other than being a bit tight once the drum went on all was well. Today I went to fit the replacement prop shaft having been grounded from Militant work by a bad dose of the trots. Aaand - the curse of UAZ strikes again!! :mad: The replacement prop shaft, like the handbrake back plate, came off another 469. And like the back plate it doesn't fit!! With the nose of the prop shaft bolted to the gearbox/handbrake the axle end over hangs the axle flange by at least 25 mm with the spline section pushed fully home as in the photos below: Gear box end - note splines fully closed Axle end - overhanging by at least 25mm " width="644" height="390">">Something went wrong... (if the embedded video doesn't play use this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIi-g0Ee1jM) Seems to me that standardisation of parts is not a concept the UAZ design team really embraced - unlike the rest of the world. So it looks very much like I will have to refit the old prop shaft that had it's nose bounced down the M20 for about 1/2 a mile last July Edited April 22, 2017 by ArtistsRifles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1950 Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Propshaft services or the local equivalent should be able to shorten it so that it fits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowfat Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 (edited) Am i mistaken but the joint near the drum .Isn't that a sliding joint? is it seized. Edited April 23, 2017 by lowfat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 Am i mistaken but the joint near the drum .Isn't that a sliding joint? is it seized. No mistake, it is indeed a sliding joint that is fully closed. Its supposed to be a standard part - should fit any 469 but twice on this job I've wound up with parts that need serious modification to fit. Getting beyond a joke now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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