Munga restoration

hi

 

I am on my first day of trying to restore a very rotten munga an f91/4

all i have done today is measure up for new metal required and generally check it out. a couple of questions I have . what gauge of metal for the floor and where can I get a starter motor for the two stroke engine or is there an equivalent car one I could use.

I will post some pictures soon once the weather stops raining

regards

alex

Hi Alex the floors on ours were quite heavy about 18 gauge??? we have used Kemper parts in Germany for lots of parts so far... they sell a very good set of replacement floors, inner and outer sills .....this worked out just a scratch over what the cost of sheet metal and fabrication would have cost and saved a lot of time too!!!! and I thought shipping to U.K. was very reasonable!!!!

As for the starter motor is it missing?? or just seized as mine was!!! (removed, de seized, stripped, lubricated, reassembled and refitted and working all on one sunny bank holiday last year!!!) if you need a complete starter you could try the German eBay site it often has lots parts for Munga's (some whole cars too!!!) just check the seller will post internationally!!! also watch that payment tends to be bank transfer!! (easy if you bank online) some have Paypal.

also have fingers crossed for the better weather soon as we still have loads to do before its first planned outing at W+PR this year!!!!!!!

look FWD to your pics

good luck and have fun!!!!

Paul

hi Paul

 

thanks for the info about the metal, I tried to measure it but the rust and rain beat me I guessed it was around what you say 1.5mm I could bend, cut metal with little problem but as you say it may be cost affective to buy the parts, I will decide on a list and e mail kemper.

the car has a golf 1.1 cc engine installed, but I have the original engine as well, Well all the engine except the starter motor, I have been checking the starter details on line and if I get one at a good price, I discovered it has 8 teeth on the starter cog and was made by bosch, was then used on many German vehicles, I have miss placed the bosch part number just now, I will endeavor to get the right engine back into the car if I can get it running first.

I am going to try to up load some munga scary pics, I expect the restoration to take a few years to finish, mostly to spread the cost out a bit.

regards

Alex

looking good mate , our has taken a few years (dads retirement project ) and a limited money ...........fired up this morn for the first time (just finding out how to upload video )

Hi Alex like the pics!!!

The handbook lists 3 different starters, one for the 12 Volt (civil) EED 0,8/12/r 300, and two 24 Volt, 300 amp EED 98/12/r 300, and 600 amp EDD 1/24/r 320, yours has two battery trays so should be 24Volt (EX military)

we got in contact with WWW.munga-ig.DE joined the club then sent them an e-mail with our chassis number ...they sent back a copy of the original DKW factory release information (build date , date shipped to the army, army service records and brief details of original fittings !! , date of release from active service ) very handy info to have when applying for age related plates etc!!! and if you become a retrospective member you get a welcome pack including a cd packed full of pics, hand books, brochures , (some in English too)!!!! ..

I noticed your right hand side engine bay is missing the regulator and the starter ballast two boxes one with a large aluminium cover .... do you have these???

otherwise you will need to replace them and the wiring looms to enable you to use your original running gear!!!

look fwd to seeing more pics!!!

Hi

thanks for the starter info I will do a search for a replacement, I will check out the club you gave the link for and see if I can find out more about my munga.

I have some info about the one I have but only since it has been in the uk.

when I got the munga I also got two boxes of spares, mostly engine parts including the big dynamo and its regulator, so far i have not checked it out very much as i am considering taking the body off, but not quite sure yet how much work it would be.

regards

alex

Hi

 

Does anyone know how to tell if the coils on the munga engine are 24volt or 12 volt, the coils are linked to some large resistors and have this number stamped on them (28-6617-3300-00).

thanks again

alex

According to the Parts Manual, the same coil number, like the one you listed, is used for both 12 and 24v systems. Presumably the resistors you mention are to drop the coil volts to 12v, although I can't seem to find them in the list at the moment.

 

John

hi

 

i will connect the coils up to 24v and see if i get a voltage drop with the resistors down to 12volts.

i should have done this already.

hopefully i can get something done to the old machine this weekend.

thanks again

alex

i just missed a flywheel on ebay-de 30 euro delivery to scotland , i thought that was quite cheap when you think of how heavy it is.

my flywheel has some gouges on the teeth, if i could get a starter ring i would just replace the ring

alex

First time lifting the munga and it never halfed in two as was suggested by a friend.

i only lifted it a few inches to check every thing strong for lifting

The chassis on these mungas really are strong as an ox!!! have only seen rust on the extremity's and outriggers before..... body on the other hand is another matter!!!! :laugh:

How is the ring gear held onto the flywheel? Is it a shrink fit or welded? Do you think it might be possible to remove the ring, and refit it in a different place?

 

trevor

are they different wheels ? ours have rings welded to them so the hub cap fits..........

The flywheel ring is what's called interference fit. I used to cut the old ring with a cold chisel, heat the new one in the house oven as warm is I could get it and the flywheel in the freezer, I did clean it first and wait until the house was empty, then very quickly tap the ring over the flywheel, easy peasy.

I did once turn a toothed ring but I used a roofing blow torch and a bit of luck I got the ring off, but not easy, oh and we now have a new freezer

and wait until the house was empty,

 

Leaving the oven door and the kitchen window open afterwards to allow any odd smells to dissipate?

The rims look like the ones off the later vw iltis.

The tyres look Nato pattern.... I just missed a set of 5 virtually new ones a couple of years back (could have kicked myself!!)

PS

I Like the makeshift jack handle!!!

Hi

I had my first good look under the munga today, and was very suprised to see how good the chassis looks, its covered in flakey paint that comes of easy, so far only one hole on the rear crossmember and that looks as if it should be east to repair, it was cold today so only a quick look but i did poke around with a sharp screwdriver and it sounded good

oh well back to work tomorrow not long till saturday.

Thats the old vw polo engine out, But there seems a lot of play on the gearbox spline shaft, but it was time to stop so i will leave it until sunday before i worry about it

 

alex

Ready to lift the body off, but what is the cable that goes from the dash board into the gearbox,

i will take some pics as i remove the body

 

 

alex

Sounds like the high/low ratio cable - pull it out for low ratio, back in for high.

 

John

hi

 

anyone know the colour a munga should be,, is it drab olive?

 

 

thanks

 

alex

hi

 

anyone know the colour a munga should be,, is it drab olive?

 

 

thanks

 

alex

i think it depends on whos using them, their german made of course but used by the brits, dutch, french so you have a choice , or do you mean from the factory as issued ?

If it were in Dutch army service it would have been painted NATO green... the plates on the dash will be in Dutch and usually labels for the switchgear as well... like many of the EX Dutch army Mungas imported to the U.K