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Bedford MW restoration project 2012/2013


Danny P

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  • 7 months later...

It has been a while since I've posted the last pictures of my project. So here are some new pictures.

 

Handbrake sand blasted, primed and finished in olive drab matt

handbrake cable.jpg

 

New front pipe, silencer and tail pipe fitted

tail pipe3.jpg

 

Front board almost ready

rear.jpg

 

New plates for the wheel boxes, primed and finished in red oxide and olive drab matt

wheel box.jpg

handbrake.jpg

handbrake fitted.jpg

handbrake rod.jpg

front pipe.jpg

silencer.jpg

tail pipe1.jpg

front board.jpg

front board (1).jpg

plates wheel box.jpg

plates wheel box primer.jpg

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HI Danny sorry it took so long but I hope this is the info you need - the hex nuts do have spring washers behind them and the diameter of the washers is approx. 23mm or 29/32"

 

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Not sure of the width of the bottom plank can you help ?

 

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Here are some pics of my side panels if you need any more I'll be working on my MW tomo these panels had been in storage and this has been my first chance to access them for a while.

 

Regards RR.

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  • 3 months later...

Jeremy,

 

Thank you very much for the pictures. I appreciate your spending time helping me with the clip.

I can see that the downwards iron piece fitted to the front board is at a certain angle related to the top section of the clip. I believe this angle as well as the position of the carriage bolt is important to let the clip work properly. If this is not taken into account the clip will block the sideboard from drop down.

Would it be possible to consider this with the measurements.

 

Regards,

Danny:thumbsup:

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May be easier to make a full size paper template and post it to you, Pm me your address and I'll get it sorted over the xmas hols, can you do me a favour in return ? I need to make new timbers to carry the rear floor can you send me a list of timber sizes and dimensions on how they all fit together.

 

RR.

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  • 1 year later...

It's been a while but here's an update again:

 

Waiting for a lot original 5/16-18 carriage bolts from my friend in the UK to finish the rear body so in the meanwhile I started with the cab.

 

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Frame work wasn't so bad actually but the rear beam towards the body has a lot of woodworms. So had some free meals each time I was busy in the garage.

 

Don't ask me how I did it but I managed to close the cab hermetically with wood boards, hard boards, sheets, paper, rubber seals etc. ect. and sand blasted the chassis part. I took me about a week to prepare to be reassured that no grit would come through. Everyone would have declared me crazy but I succeeded, however with some panic attacks in the cab during blasting. I wish I had taken a picture of it but I was happy to break it down at the end of the job. Everywhere grit but not outside the cab. Can you believe it? YES!!!! :nut:

 

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Primer as a next step.

 

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Working on the gear box and master cylinder and therefore have some questions. How is the spring reverse trigger on the speed lever fitted?

 

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The pencil in the pictures is pointing to the hooks of the spring which both fit the small openings on the trigger. So I assume that both hooks should be in these openings pointing upwards if I'm right? I assume the long end of the spring is located between the lever and rod but how to fix this? It has to be pushed down somehow with some tension. I also assume that the rivet has to be replaced?

 

Furthermore the master cylinder is leaking at the top cover. What is the best replacement for the gasket as it looks like the nasty alkaline brake fluid is going everywhere!

 

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Thanks,

Danny

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Hi Jeremy,

 

Master cylinder is not overfilled. A 1-1.5 mm fiber gasket was fitted and seems to be insufficient since the brake fluid creeps up . The outside top of the master cylinder is wet. I'm sure it is the gasket. Did you perhaps used a paper gasket? But does paper not leaking through? How thick should it be? I have tested a black loctite paste in brake fluid which should remain pliable and flexible but the paste dissolves in the alkaline brake fluid, so this is not suitable.

Anyone else familiar with this?

 

Danny

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  • 3 months later...

Found the way to fit the spring for the rear gear and have sandblasted some parts from below the cab.

 

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Gear box cleaned and checked

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Furthermore some pictures of the rotten cab frame

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All parts below the cab fitted, new petrol pipes and a complete new frame

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Next step would be the bottom plate of the cab

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As can be seen from the picture there are two reinforcements welded. I was wondering how to restore the inner side of these? Does anyone have an idea?

 

Danny

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Edited by Danny P
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  • 3 months later...

Floor plate of cab sandblasted and primed. Sandblasting of the inner side of reinforcements went very well and I let in some diluted bitumen from different sides and angles for maximum preservation.

 

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For the passenger seat two bolts are welded on the floor plate at a distance of about 12.5 inches. The back of two angle irons were screwed to these bolts. Subsequently, when the seat is placed on these angle irons none of the bigger holes in the seat match with the top of these iron angles.

 

Before, the seat was attached with some tiny rivets to the iron angles which seems not original to me. You can still see the tiny holes in the angle irons and you can see the line of welded holes in the seat where the rivets have been. CAN ANYBODY PLEASE HELP ON HOW THE PASSENGER SEAT IS MOUNTED?

 

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Danny

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  • 3 months later...

Floor panels looking very good, what primer are you using?

 

The only part of the floor pan I have is the one for handbrake, I will have to make a complete new floor pan in due course.

 

Cheers

Richard

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Richard,

 

Two components epoxy-primer but it is more difficult to spray than a one component multi-primer. When using epoxy use a little bit more of expoxy diluent than usual and a higher spray pressure, it's a matter of trying to find the optimal dilution and spray pressure to obtain a smooth finish.

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  • 8 months later...
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