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Pig, Ferret, Saladin, Saracen, Stalwart etc. oil filter replacement


Roland

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But why bother when the filters are available :dunno: it's not as if your doing loads of miles & you need to change it often :| also putting a non standard oil filter on wouldn't that be risking restricting the oil flow :dunno:

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The Rolls-Royce designed oil system has worked for years with no problems. You can get new filters, and the old ones can be washed out and reused. I wouldn't want to mess with a tried and tested system unless I had to.

 

Chris

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Do look interesting - would like to hear what Richard N. or one of the other Stalwart owners thinks before commiting though!!

 

Well, I did a bit of research on this some time ago and came up thus:

 

Certainly no point in doing any mods while original filters are cheap(ish) and available.

 

The felt filter has a very open, comparatively, structure of some 25 microns whereas modern paper elements are around 12 micron and flow rates were a concern. However, as described by a designer at one producer, the felt has depth and its like hitting a golf ball through a forest. . . . . . . . .

 

I was also told the plumbing and especially the filter mounting block had far more effect on flows than the difference between similarly sized felt and paper elements.

 

Bear in mind the felt "Bat-Wing" is only two cloth bags on two plates of perforated metal support; the paper elements have a huge area owing to their folded packaging. The sort of spin-on can size depicted would normally be hanging off a very large engine indeed and I'd imagine well capable of handling a B Range needs, consider the small baked bean can attached to your car engine and usually changed at 10,000 miles.

 

I have a small stock of Crosland Type 432 paper filters which are the modern replacement and I believe Crosland have now stopped these. The centre bore is a few thou undersize though on the top cone and really the centre bolt needs a light skim for an inch or so after the thread. It seems the bolt shank is just oversize whereas the threaded portion conforms to a UNF O/D standard.

 

Any restriction will show as a loss of pressure as the B Range measure, sensibly, at one end of the main gallery after filtration. I have noticed no changes from before using paper elements.

 

There any number of cast spin-on filter mounts available on the net very cheaply in all manner of configurations and connection threads, the spin-on bit complies to a small range of standards too. We recently used one on an ex-Cent donkey engine (Morris eight) which has modifications for external filters.

 

With an adaptor "bolt" you'd perhaps need to carefully consider if the adaptor itself could be restrictive or provides a reasonable CSA for flows.

 

Washing felt filters is a tad worrying as the entrained material could be quite deeply contained, I'd not do it personally.

 

The typical filter change interval quoted for B Range engines is 7500 miles IIRC, so you could perhaps leave the filter quite a long time and just change the oil at yearly intervals because of the low milage these vehicles usually do, so water and combustion acid contamination are more problematic.

 

Stalwart specific, the engine has a massive oil reservoir, when used in wet sump configuration the capacity is about one half of the remote system capacity and there may be an argument for a change every other year, which is what I do personally, but the nature of the lubricant is regularly inspected for indications of water contamination especially.

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Certainly no point in doing any mods while original filters are cheap(ish) and available.

 

May be I asked at the wrong dealer, I guess. As I want new filter elements at Beltring last year, Mr. Glenn only sold complete filter bowls: each 50 pounds. :-o

 

That isn´t cheap for me! So I search for an option. 50 pounds are 75 EUR or nearly 80 US$. It´s the price for one complete adapter incl. 10 filters. The days for washing filters are gone - for me 8-)

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May be I asked at the wrong dealer, I guess. As I want new filter elements at Beltring last year, Mr. Glenn only sold complete filter bowls: each 50 pounds. :-o

 

 

 

Roland,

 

Filter elements are normally about £25, and for several years at Beltring, Mr. Glenn has been selling the complete filter bowls at £25.

 

Richard

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What should I say Richard - maybe it was a special price for special guests :?

 

However, I will work with that adapter. Many friends of mine with ferrets too. I hate that dirty work with the original bowls and filters. I can tell you some tales about original filter bowls - coming from REME - without gaskets, cups, spring or also a filter in it... :roll:

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May be I asked at the wrong dealer, I guess. As I want new filter elements at Beltring last year, Mr. Glenn only sold complete filter bowls: each 50 pounds. :-o

Cripes! :-o

Last time I bought some from Marcus they were 15 quid. It suggests there are but few left now.

 

Sure, likely time to do the mod for available modern stuff.

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  • 1 year later...

Just been looking for Oil filters for the Pig, and came across this old thread. Anybody have any excess spares they dont require? they appear to be getting thin on the ground, either that or somebody is sitting on a vast stock. And while im at it, is the spin on filter conversion any good, somebody must of been using these for long enough to give a long term use opinion.

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Adam just wash out your old one, if its felt. If its paper it probably is a Tecalmit FA2688, which I think matches with a Crossland 432 (B674D)

 

If you buy another felt filter make sure it is the correct type.

 

Early engines had no bypass in the filter mount if it became clogged. This felt is sealed at one end. These types are LF2/31B & LF3.

 

The most common type for the later filter mount with bypass has a felt with a hole each end of the rolled felt. Most common type LF3F superseded by LF3/35.

 

But as others have said just treat it as nature intended & everything will work fine. Spin on filters, electric fuel pumps all unnecessary.:)

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