Jump to content

S3 Landie....


Recommended Posts

Replacement bezels arrived yesterday. They looked good in the packaging - 2 x bezels, 2 x glass, 2 x flat seals 2 x "O" ring seals. First done was the Speedo itself. That required the use of both the flat seal and the "O" ring seal and took about 40 minutes to do, most of which was getting the old bezel to part company with the instrument. Once off and the face cleaned up the dew bezel was quivkly fitted. Using the new thumb wheels for the clamps was a bit problematic - although the threads engaged neither one would go on more than a couple of turns, So I go the UNF taps out and ran the nearest size through the thumb wheels. That did the job and the speedo is now clamped back in the fascia. Next was the multi-gauge. I had to remove the oil and water temp gauges (mine are the old capillary type) to get the gauge out then it was a repeat of the speedo one save that the "O" ring seal was not required.

 

I did not refit this one yet as the hole in the fascia makes for good access to the lights on the speedo. I have ordered a set of LED bulbs for the dascia and can do no more now till they arrive. Then I just have to fit them and blot everything back together.

 

Oh yea - I also ran a new lead across from the panel light switch to the 6-Way so now I have power going to the panel lights. No more night time driving wondering what the hell is happening and fumbling for a torch to find out. I hope!! :D

 

Picture to follow once the bulbs arrive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 187
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

LED's for the Landie also arrived today so after I got back from the militant I fitted them.

 

20160709_154728_zpseg0gk5vl.jpg[/url]

 

All went well till I got to the indicator repeater. For some odd reason it broke as I pulled the bulb holder out. Cue turning the air blue!! However a few minutes with a tube of super glue rectified the problem. It should hold till I can replace it.

 

20160709_164955_zpspvezvndz.jpg

 

20160709_165356_zpsd7tsudfr.jpg

 

So now the dash is all back together - and I checked in twilight - I now have panel lights!! :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Weather was crap this morning - rain and high winds but by mid afternoon the sun returned. So I thought I'd get on with a simple -ish job. Fitting the Mil Reg plates. I say simple -ish because whilst the front plate is a smooth wipe clean type the rear is the old raised lettering type which made aligning the mil plate bit trickier. However it all worked out quite nicely. I had to super glue a stack of three washers together to make the spacer need to lift the plate off the Civvy one. When I get time I will replace the civvy plate with the wipe-clean type too

 

Front plate ready to take the mil reg

 

20160710_194552_zps6np5mdgx.jpg

 

Front Mil Plate on

 

20160710_180157_zpskprasj4v.jpg

 

Rear plate ready to take Mil Plate

 

20160710_194323_zps6awzdsmd.jpg

 

Rear Mil Plate on

 

20160710_181834_zpsczuymaps.jpg

 

Going to run some black paint around the edge of the front civvy plate and put some black foam stuck to the back of the rear Mil plate to tidy it up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

On the run down to W&P the red brake light suddenly started coming on with an attendant loss of braking function. Got so bad the it spent most of W&P just parked up waiting for the journey home. I checked underneath and there was no sign of fluid leakage again so I assumed the master cylinder had issues. ON the Sunday coming home with the Sankey hooked up I suddenly found I had no lights what so ever. All the fuses were intact so I wound up driving home on hand signals. Once home I had a play and found that with the I/R switch in the ON position the lights work!! In the Off position they don't - the exact opposite of how things should be and its currently driving me nuts because on the way down the lights worked normally with the I/R switch in the off position as they should!

 

Ordered a new brake master cylinder which arrived today so once the rain stopped in the afternoon I went to fit it. Got the two pipes out OK and the two securing nuts onto the servo but would the master cylinder budge? Would it hell. I managed to create a small gap between the cylinder and the servo face so I soused it in penetrating fluid and left it a couple of hours. When I returned I wedged a screw driver into the gap and proceeded to welt the cylinder with a 5 Lb club hammer. After 3 good belts it popped free.

 

20160727_182626_zpstgm2wr53.jpg

 

So I cleaned up the surrounding area and fitted the new cylinder, bolting it to the servo first then fitting the pipes. Once done I filled the reservoir to the Max mark and looked for any possible leaks around the pipe unions. Fortunately there were none but after I finished I noted the level had dropped to maybe 5mm below the Max mark. I tipped off the reservoir to the Max again and - thus far it is sitting holding at that level waiting for a chance and an assistant to bleed the brakes.

 

20160727_185238_zpsfvpfjtwe.jpg

 

20160727_185249_zpsye0nfklh.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aaaaand........... Problem time again - of the electrical variety which I hate. :-( The fuel gauge has started reading full all the time. Senders are not stuck, I've tried reversing the connectors - doesn't do anything. What with the acting up I/R system I am reaching the point where things will start to get thrown!! :-( :-(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We had sunshine again today so I had another go. Dash is in pieces again - 3rd time in as many months.

Good news is the lights are now working as they should with the I/R switch in the "Off" position.

 

Not so good news is it looks like the problems is the switch at fault. As I flicked it on and off I heard the relay click then at one point as I moved from "off" towards "on" the relay clicked before the switch clicked over. So the lights now work as normal. I have a feeling the problem will resurface sometime in the future so I will replace the switch when it does.

 

Bad news is the fuel gauge is still FUBAR. I tried disconnecting the feed to the fuel tap switches so in theory the circuit was dead and the gauge should not react at all when the ignition was turned on. So much for theory - the gauge still jumped to full. so something is earthing out on the gauge. Having removed the gauge from the cluster there was the expected no reaction. I think that, as much it seems unlikely the fuel gauge that was brand new OEM a couple of years ago is now faulty. icon_sad.gif Next problem then is going to be finding a replacement that won't cost an arm and a leg. Prices on the web seem to vary between £49 and £222!!! icon_eek.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally get someone home to help me bleed the brakes on the Landie - and the first wheel I go to to start bleeding now has a blown wheel cylinder!! :mad:

So - two new wheel cylinders and shoes on order from Paddocks to be fitted ASAP. Looks like no Damyns Hall for me this year as the UAZ parts won't be here till next week either. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

New rear brakes fitted and bled - Landie now able to stop.again. Got a shock taking the leaky side apart, as I pulled the drum off the friction material just fell off the shoes..... Then when fitting new shoes I managed to try slicing the tops of my right hand fingers off when the pry bar slipped. Ouch!!

 

Fuel gauge is still fooked though :( Fitted a new gauge and it still just reads "Full" even with the connection to the selector micro switches removed. Don't understand this at all. Seems to have started when I fitted a new bezel and glass to the multi-cluster instrument housing but I am at a loss to see how that would affect the fuel gauge......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Well - things seem to have progressed well. I took the old girl over to Belgium last weekend for a re-enactment event at Fort van Bornem in Belgium. Don;t mind admitting I was cacking it a bit as the last few trips out have not ended so well and I did take the precaution of booking a single trip breakdown/recovery policy for calssic vehicles - just in case.

In the event I did not need it. The old girl ran well there and back with no major hitches at all. The only issues that occurred were relatively minor:

 

 

  • The drivers side stop/tail light has developed a fault wherein only the side light filament is illuminating, not matter whether the power comes via the light switch or the brake pedal. I think I need to replace the bulb holder
  • If I went at 50 mph or higher (and yes - at one point without realizing I reached the dizzy heights of 46 mph on the Sat Nave) I started loosing coolant via the radiator cap. No idea why its blowing out from the cap instead of going into the expansion bottle but I lost about 1.5 litres of coolant on each leg of the trip.

 

So overall I am very pleased and am now looking forwards to the NEC in October.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 11 months later...

After months of behaving itself the time came in July for both the MoT and the tax renewal. I started prepping her for the MoT and found that the washer jets weren't working. Cue another Landie Saga. :-)

Disconnected the out pipe from the pump and switched the washers on - just got a bubbly froth from the pump outlet. OK - pump is fooked. so I got a new HD pump and fitted that. Tried it with the pipe off and got a 1m jet up in the air. Reconnected the pipe and tried again - and got a trickle from the passenger side but nothing from the drivers. Tried everything but could not get the drivrs side to clear so I wound up cutting the nozzle off then drilling the remains out. A master piece of engineering design means the nut securing the jet is totally obscured by the drivers demister vent - and the only way to remove that is to totally dismantle the dash Not a viable job hence the cutting off of the vent. Then ordered a pair of Defender style plastic jets. Went to fit them and found the plastic pipe size was different - the new jets were slightly bigger. 30 minutes of soaking in boiling water solved that and with the jets bolted on tried again - impressive results.

 

Got her up for an MoT yesterday and she passed with flying colours - no advisories at all. Did get quite a spectacular "F*CK" from the tester when he used the washers - the jets apparently were rather stronger than he was expecting from a Series.

Today I went to tax the old girl and found that (a) the V11 renewal letter had expired and (b) I couldn't find the new Red V5C. Turned the front room over twice and no sign so it was on the blower to the DVLA to order a replacement one (£25.00). I was quite impressed with the service - once you got past the "press 1 for..." business.

Young lady I spoke to sorted the replacement V5 promptly and efficiently. Then I asked if I could renew the tax... I think it must be a standard spiel she had to go through about how there'd been a gap between the tax due date of July and now and did I realise I could be liable to a fine of X times the annual VED. Then I think she read the screen and saw the Historic class (£0.00 VED) and just burst into laughter. Minute or so later the old girl is all legal again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Bad news is the fuel gauge is still FUBAR. I tried disconnecting the feed to the fuel tap switches so in theory the circuit was dead and the gauge should not react at all when the ignition was turned on. So much for theory - the gauge still jumped to full. so something is earthing out on the gauge. Having removed the gauge from the cluster there was the expected no reaction. I think that, as much it seems unlikely the fuel gauge that was brand new OEM a couple of years ago is now faulty. icon_sad.gif Next problem then is going to be finding a replacement that won't cost an arm and a leg. Prices on the web seem to vary between £49 and £222!!! icon_eek.gif

 

Neil, I had a similar problem with my lightweight, fuel gauge reading full as soon as the ignition turned on, I also had a strange earth fault on the off side headlight, gave up on the fuel gauge and went for the headlight fault, cleaned all the eart points and re-terminated all the associated earth cables and low and behold both problems disappeared.

 

PT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Neil, I had a similar problem with my lightweight, fuel gauge reading full as soon as the ignition turned on, I also had a strange earth fault on the off side headlight, gave up on the fuel gauge and went for the headlight fault, cleaned all the eart points and re-terminated all the associated earth cables and low and behold both problems disappeared.

 

PT

 

Cheers mate. It's been suggested that the fault is indeed an earth - but behind the dash - I had the two main instruments out replacing the glass and bezels and the gauge stopped working after that. One of the EMLRA guys said it might be because I have put all the earth terminals onto the speedo clamp bolts and the one affecting the gauge should be on the multi-cluster. I need to check this out but the two bolts holding the front panel on are just spinning, the threaded sections in the body of the instrument panel have come loose. Talk about Murphys law!! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...