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S3 Landie....


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:shocked:

 

 

Well, it sounds like you are going to have something to keep you from loafing on the sofa. Are you going to paint the rest of the engine while you are at it?

 

trevor

 

That will depend on the weather - if we get another warm patch so I can wash the crap off then I might well do. If not - then it will only be the head - but on a 24v you don't get to see much else :)

 

The head is now painted, together with the rocker cover which was primed first in Hammerite Special Metal Primer, and ready for refitting.

 

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I was going to refit the head in the little warm spell we had but a friend popped in to visit who is also into cars so I got his opinion of the state of the pistons. He agreed with my fears - that the damage could lead to hot spots, especially on #3 so I had to order a set of new pistons from Craddocks.

 

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In the mean time the bottom end gasket set has arrived together with the cylinder head bolt washers and new lock-nuts for the big ends. Remembered today I forgot to order a new oil filter so I need to sort that out tomorrow.

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I must admit that in a way I feel relieved that you have decided to change the pistons, that little erosion pocket could so easily been a source of trouble. Can you get the pistons out without taking the engine out? I can't remember how much room there is on the under side of the engine on one of these.

 

trevor

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Yes - not so easily as the bearing halves do not want to seperate. However there looks to be enough room to get a lump of wood up under the piston so some impact tech can be used to drive the pistons up.

New pistons arrived today:

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So I need to get a jar of fresh engine oil to soak the cylinder hone in overnight.

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The bores can then be glaze busted before fitting the new piston assemblies.

First though I also need to get a new oil filter element :D

 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

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  • 2 months later...

Update time!!

 

The engine is now back together but not without fun and games. First off getting the pistons out left some noticeable wear ridges in the tops of the bores. The only solution I could find was to get a Dremel type tool out and polish them back so they blended in before running the bore hone over them again. If I hadn't the odds were the top piston ring would have broken sooner or later - knowing my luck - sooner. Putting the new pistons in went well till i torqued #3 down - at which point the engine locked solid. I had to undo number three, remove it completely and refit it. After this they went in OK and the engine could be rotated on the hand crank. The head went on OK - I got a new torque wrench calibrated in lb/ft, torqued the bolts down in 3 stages, rechecked the final setting twice on the new wrench then dug out an old bending scale one and checked them again using that. The tappets were then set by the book and again checked 3 times.

Then I started to reassemble the thermostat housing - and one of the three bolts promptly snapped off in the head!!

 

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This gave a few more days delay whist a set of bolts, taps and ezyouts were delivered. Fortunately the broken section of bolt came out OK with an ezyout so the 3 threads were cleaned with a plug tap and this time the stat housing assembly went on OK. Whilst waiting for these bits to arrive I cleaned off the sump and gave that a couple of coats of duck egg blue paint and, when dry, refitted that together with the oil filter and the oil cooler fitting. Whilst underneath I also took the time to give the axles a coat of black hammerite, the rear diff a coat of white hammerite white paint and applied the oil stencils, Still got to do the front axle stencils.

 

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Once the head and housing were on OK together with the rocker cover I refitted the manifolds and, again, a nightmare of a job getting the two bolts in on the underside that have the spreader plates on them. Finally got it done though.

 

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I then fitted a new Zenith to replace the Weber. Still need to get a bolt to clap the choke cable into place. I did note that the fuel inlet pipe was a smaller dia. than the Weber so I tightened up the jubilees clip as much as poss.

 

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Didn't work as the first time I spun the engine on the starter the fountain of fuel was quite impressive!! So new flexi-fuel line had to be sourced too...

i also thought I would fit the heater fan I;d had for a while so took the heater matrix off and flushed it out then went to fit the fan - and that's when I found out the one I have is a LHD version and won't fit!!! So now I need to sell a brand new LHD 24v heater fan and try to find a good condition RHD drive unit. I thought maybe I could fit the fan motor and resistor to the old fan assembly as that was knackered - but when I dug it out not only was the case badly mullahed but that one was LHD too :-( So I had to refit the heater matrix for the time being. I also need to get the trunion that goes on the heater tap at the front of the engine - I fitted a replacement control cable to the slider and need the trunnion to fit it to the tap.

 

When I fitted the hoses back on I found the new one that joins the rigid feed pipe for the heater matrix to the heater tap had gone walk-about. Could not find it anywhere. Luckily I had not thrown the old ones away and it was still in useable condition so I refitted that - thus far it is water tight.

 

Eventually everything was back together as it could be so I checked and adjusted the static ignition timing then refitted the plug and screened leads and spun it over. Eventually we had life again!!!

 

 

 

Next job is to try and fudge up a 24v screened cap with unscreened leads and caps so that ordinary plugs can be fitted to let things like a strobe light and colourtune can be used to set the timing and fuel/air mixture accurately and that will be the engine finished. I can then get the MOT done and then send off the V5 to claim Historic Vehicle status,

I can then look at shifting the shunt back back into the rear tub where it belongs and finding some way of fitting the Military plates and the bridging plate.

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Looking and sounding good chap :) I do have a 24v heater here but it's only good for spares hence why I have left it in the shed for mine. Your engine looks very clean and nice though :)

 

Cheers :-) The only clean looking parts are the sump, oil filter canister, oil filler pip, head and rocker cover. The engine block itself is covered in grease and sh*t! :red:

 

Got hold of a set of new conventional plugs today so - hoping like hell - I swapped the screened cap over and laid the plugs on the cylinder hear bolts. Spinning over showed no sign of a spark on any of them though. So I think I need to strip that old cap down and have a look at the HT leads - the king lead in particular. Maybe I will replace them all, and the plug caps too.

 

Right now I need to get the old bus taxed - and she is now qualifying for historic (i.e. Free) status so I need to send the V5 off to Swansea. Got all the paperwork ready but the MOT expired last month. This needs to be sorted before I send the paperwork off so tomorrow morning a quick call to the local MoT station is in order. I will ask them if they can check the timing and fuel/air ratio without having to use a plug lead. If they can all well and good and i will get on with the converted cap at my leisure. If they can;t then I really need to got this sorted before going on any long runs - I don't want to go through this again.

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Got through the MoT OK - only to have the front sidelights, O/S front indicator and the number plate light pack up on me.

The sidelights were an easy fix - the connector had parted company - must have been caught when the air-filter canister was put back in. That was the simple part ended. Took the number plate light apart and found the terminals had broken apart- the live lead was floating about loose inside. Luckily I didn't run on lights as it might have made a mess of the loom. So - a new light assembly is now on order. Then I tried to get the lens off the indicator to test/change the bulb - only to find the lens will not unscrew. Luckily there is a spare in the garage as this one is now badly mangled but still has not unscrewed. I've left it soaking in 3 in 1 oil overnight in the hope this will free it off.

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Throttle linkage now adjusted correctly so it works as intended by foot and by hand. Still need to sort out the reason why it won't run on the hybrid cap though.

The O/S front indicator was a nightmare!! I reckon I must be a contender for the record length of time to change an indicator bulb - 2 complete days. First the glass lens refused to unscrew so extreme measures had to be used to get it out - kettle of boiling water over the fitting then wrappping in a tea-towel and use of a strap wrench.

Having got the lens out the bulb then refused to budge. A liberal dosing and soaking in WD40 had no real effect so I spent a looong while working on the bulb trying to free it. At last I thought it was free only to find the glass bulb had separated from the base - so more time was then spent trying to free the metal base from the socket, Having done this then the socket needed extensive cleaning to loose the corrosion inside. Finally though the new bulb was in and working. This are the remains of the old lens and bulb - and the first replacement bulb:

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This leaves the number plate light - I had a look and found the connector for the positive lead had broken up leaving the lead floating about free.

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Luckily for me I never ran it on side lights as a known issue when this happens is the loom and the rather expensive 6-way lighting switch burning out!! New light was ordered from eBay and came today so I will look into fitting that tomorrow.

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New light fitted and tested (don't 22v bulbs get bright on 24v! :-) ) and 24v bulbs on order.

Paperwork submitted to DVLA for the change to Historix tax. Just leaves the punctured spare to fix and all is ready to when DVLA return the V5.

 

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  • 7 months later...

So - an overdue update. :-) 55 FM 58 is now registered as a Historic Vehicle with free tax. The rebuilt engine is - so far - running very sweetly. The run down to W&P was very good as was the run up to the NEC in November for the Classic Car Show. So that little bugbear is sorted.

I still need to get hold of the clamp that goes on the Zenith carb to secure the choke cable - as a result at times it will vibrate out and pull the choke on. Not so good.

 

Up at the NEC with EMLRA - November 2015 Classic Car Show:

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Down at W&P I found a tyre going down slowly - repeated at Damyns Hall. Both time I had the puncture repaired. Then heading up to the NEC two things happened. First the brake pedal required pumping and at one point when I hit the brakes hard the red light on the test switch came on briefly. I know from the MOT last year that there was a report of fluid leakage on the N/S/F tyre - the tester and I thought it was from the swivels but now I think maybe a brake cylinder has started weeping. When the rain stops I will have the wheel and drum off and have a look. The other problem was punctures again - within 20 feet of the hall entrance the O/S/R went down and I had to fit the spare. Parked up on the EMLRA club stand OK but when I came in on the Friday morning the O/S/F was also flat. Oh sh*t!!

In the end it cost £90 to get them repaired because I had to call out a mobile commercial tyre service. The local tyre places would not touch tubed tyres - £12 per puncture , the rest was call out fees. Then on the way home the O/S/R blew again. So I pulled into the services I was just passing and fitted the repaired spare and carried on. About 30 minutes later the same tyre went again..... So I pulled onto the hard shoulder and called the RAC having run out of usable wheels.

 

Waiting on the M1 for the RAC:

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Whilst waiting the Highways Agency turned up and made me drive nearly a mile on the flat to one of the new emergency lay-bys. They were worried that this section of the M1 was one where the hard shoulder became a 4th lane at peak times and some drivers tended to forget this. Having to do this totally f*ck*d up the tyre and the inner tube. >:( RAC turned up - with about 40 minutes left on his Tacho so he took me to the next services - which was closed for the nigh!! - and I waited for the next recovery. That's were the fun started - the guy took one look at the Landie and freaked. Apparently is control had been told it was a civilian 88" and he eas faced with a military 109" - a bit of a difference in length and weight. Anyway - he called back to base but no other unit was available for a few hours so we tried getting it on the beaver tail. It fitted lengthwise OK - just! - but the truck struggled to pull the beaver tail up in to the travel position. A couple of turns around the car park also revealed the CoG was also on the hight side!! The ride home was a good cure for constipation at every turn!!

I took one wheel down to the local tyre place once I was back and they could find nothing penetrating the carcass of the tyre so after about an hour experimenting they reached the conclusion that the tyre were tubeless ones so had a far rougher inner surface than a tubeless one (by comparison the a tubed tyre they had in stock - not Landie size) and the flexing of the tyre walls had abraded the inner tube material to the point where it was too thin and kept on blowing. So - decision was to tried to find the right tubed tyres or move to the later Defender fitment 7.50x16 tubeless rims. They look very similar to the Series rims so as I had already trued sourcing a set of Deestones or the equivalent and failed I have opted to get a set of 5 Tubeless rims and fit those Hopefully that will be the end of the puncture issues. As the wheel I took had been powser coated they put the tubeless tyre on and inflated it. So far - 6 weeks later - it is still up and holding air

 

That's where the vehicle stands right now. In the mean time I managed to get hold of a RHD 24v heater blower assembly. They seem to be a rare as rocking horse dropping so I took what I could get and at first glance it didn't seem too bad. Pretty manky condition though so I dismantled it - having 23 of the 4 bolts that held the feet to the housing shear off from corrosion. A friend in EMLRA offered to get it cleaned for me if I sent to him so I duly did. The photos he sent me back after cleaning looked more like a colander than a fan housing. Luckily he knew a guy who could fix that so a week ago it came back to me freshly painted and ready for reassembly I have a new 24v assembly here so I will take the fan, control box and resistor pack off that and fit it to the case then fit it to the vehicle when the rain stops.

 

 

After dismantling:

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After media blasting:

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After welding/brazing:

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Finished fan housing:

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  • 2 months later...

Finally the rain shows signs of going away and the front garden has dried out enough to take the weight of a jack so the other day I had the front up A casual glance showed signs of fluid staining on the N/S/F wheel so that one came off first and I hit the jackpot. Piston seals have gone and the whole thing was smothered in brake fluid.

 

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The last of the parts arrived today - consensus over on EMRLA was to change the flexi-hoses as the same times as they are an unknown quantity age-wise I cant help thinking though the Craddocks packing was a bit OTT! :shocked:

 

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If the weather holds over the weekend I will be replacing the brakes on Saturday and then on Sunday picking up a set of 5 tubeless rims with tyres to stop this problem of recurring tube failures.

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Finally the rain shows signs of going away and the front garden has dried out enough to take the weight of a jack so the other day I had the front up A casual glance showed signs of fluid staining on the N/S/F wheel so that one came off first and I hit the jackpot. Piston seals have gone and the whole thing was smothered in brake fluid.

 

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20160405_134857_zps1bieympe.jpg

 

The last of the parts arrived today - consensus over on EMRLA was to change the flexi-hoses as the same times as they are an unknown quantity age-wise I cant help thinking though the Craddocks packing was a bit OTT! :shocked:

 

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If the weather holds over the weekend I will be replacing the brakes on Saturday and then on Sunday picking up a set of 5 tubeless rims with tyres to stop this problem of recurring tube failures.

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Started stripping the passenger side front brake down today. Got the shoes off and the cylinder retaining nuts loosened, one of the three rigid line connectors undone and the new flexi-pipe fitted. Unfortunately the remaining two rigid line connectors and the bleed nipple have been so badly rounded in the past they cannot be undone. So I have ordered new rigid lines from Paddocks - their web site indicates a 1.2 rday lead time on these items so probably the middle of the week before I can finish the job.

I also cleaned the inside of the drum with WD 40 and then brake cleaners so it is ready to go back on.

 

If the weather is good tomorrow then after I get back from picking up the tubeless rims and tyres I will strip the drivers side down so that too is ready for the new rigid lines, I am guessing if one side is bad the other will be too.

 

Interestingly on mine the cylinders are in the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions - but in the parts manuals - Civilian and Military - they are shown at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions - which actually seems to make more sense as on mine the lower rigid union of the connecting line is virtually hard up against the bottom of the front knuckle and cannot be removed with the cylinder in position. Any one else happen know how their wheel cylinders are aligned???

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And the work goes on.... Had to shoot out this morning to pick up 5 Defender rims (tubeless) with nearly new tyres on to get around the puncture situation + a replacement tyre for the one that got fooked on the motorway coming home from the NEC. So I didn't get to start work till got 13:30.

Anyway - got the front jacked up again and the drivers side wheel off then started to remove the hub. First two screws came out fine - screw #3 would not budge - must have spent nearly an hour trying to shift it Tried an impact driver but that didn't work. Tried the screw driver in the slot and giving the handle an almighty whack. That didn't work, Tried punching it around. That didn't work at which point due to a lack of sleep and other factors the fuse blew and I lost my rag.... Grabbed a drill and some bits and started drilling the screw out thinking I could suffer the loss of 1 out of 3 screws,. I had just worked up to a 6.5mm when the drill stuck, As I twisted the check in reverse to free it I noticed the screw move too - so out came the screw driver again and the screw came out easy as anything. I can only assume the heat and vibration of the drills had done the trick. New screw on order - screw itself £0.16, Postage £5.00. Go figure.... :)

This is the way the screw ended up:

 

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With the drum off the shoes cam off fairly quickly although as yet I am not sure how the hell I am going to put the return springs back on when I reassemble the system. All the cylinder retaining nuts came off fairly easily as did two of the three rigid line connectors. Third would not budge with an open jaw spanner so I cut the line as I have new ones on order and slipped a ring spanner over - that freed it that so in a short space of time the cylinders were out too. I just need to clean up the back plates and make sure the snail cams are free to move and the drivers side is ready to reassemble. I also replaced the flexi hose so that is ready to be connected to the rigid lines when they arrive.

 

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Edited by ArtistsRifles
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Rain stopped the play today.... :(

 

I was planning on getting the wheel cylinders out of the passenger side, cleaning both back plates up and making sure the snail cams were all working OK. Instead it rained and rained. I managed in the one break we had to get the replacement wheels out of the back of the RangeRover and transferred through into the back garden for painting.

Next dry spell will see them getting a coat of NATO green paint so they can dry thoroughly before being fitted.

 

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After the rain started again I was feeling a bit peeved and suddenly remembered I needed to rebuild the heater blower. Readers will recall that on the 5th Feb I posted the pictures of the reworked RHD blower casing so I got that out together with the donor unit - a brand new LHD unit. I drilled out the rivets on the resistor unit and unscrewed the fan and control pack from the LDH one and fitted these into the the RHD, riveting the resistor and cardboard cover back into place as before. This is now ready to be fitted to the vehicle. - spare will have to come off the bonnet and and the bonnet propped up in the vertical to give the access but at long last I will have a heater blower to at least try and demist the screen. :) :)

Assuming of course I am not jinxed and the LHD fan doesn't suck the air out of the cab and blow it out of the wing vent!! :D

 

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Nice sunshine today - total contrast to yesterday so I finished stripping out the wheel cylinders on the passenger side. Both the top rigid lines had to be cut to get a ring spanner on the unions - that got the top cylinder off but the bleed nipple in the bottom was so corroded in place that it actually sheared off rather than undo. Luckily they are all new cylinders going on!!! Cleaned all the crap off the back plate so it is ready for reassembly and squirted the snail cams with WS40 again - although I think some 3 in 1 might work better. Just finished packing all the tools away when a package from Paddocks arrived with the new rigid brake lines in. That is now stored for tomorrow. This afternoon as it was nice and hot I broke out the paint and thinners out and gave the new tubeless rims their first coat of NATO green on the inside faces.

 

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SO - if we get the same weather tomorrow (fingers crossed) I will give the rims their second coat on the inner face and first coat on the front face then whilst that is drying out I will re-assemble the front brakes. Progress at last, that will then just leave the fun of trying to bleed them!!

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Day started out nice so I cracked on with the brakes - this time in re-assembly mode. And as might be expected it wasn't as simple as it should have been. First off none of the part numbers on the cylinders matched up with the ones shown in the ISPL It took 3 attempts at positioning them to get them right.. Then the pre-formed connecting pipe that links the two cylinders was found to be the wrong profile (Britpart - need I say more...) and both sides had to be reworked to clear the bottom of the front suspension/knuckle. Even now I am not sure they aren't going to rub as the bend radius was just not tight enough or close enough to the union.

 

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The link from the flexi-hose to the top cylinder was supplied un-formed so it took a little bit of careful hand bending to try to match the profile of the old ones. But in time all the cylinders were in place with the lines connected and bleed nipples fitted.

 

The actual fitting of the shoes was a lot less fraught than anticipated - although I did manage to acquire a chronic back ache from heaving on a long screwdriver to get the fixed ends to slot in against the return springs. Compared to the UAZ they were easy though :) And the drums slipped back one first time - no need for fine adjusting the shoes with a hammer :)

 

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I'd just got them one when the weather changed and the rain started again - and hasn't stopped since. So right now the Landie is still up on the jacks and needs the brakes bled and adjusted until either the daughter Mk1 or the boyfriend Mk IV is free to help me. On the topic of adjusting them - there is one more problem. The front adjuster on the drivers side has frozen solid. Looks like it has done this in the past as the hex-head is starting to round off - right now it is soaked in 3in1 oil to try and free it up. Finger crossed.

 

Unfortunately the rain put paid to any chance of finishing off painting the new wheels.

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Nice sunshine today and Toby our dog was in the vets for IV treatment so I cracked on with the Landie, press ganging the daughter Mk 1 and the boyfriend Mk IV into service. And at the end of the day we achieved 3 things:

 

1) The brakes are now bled. First I found a leak on the drivers side - one of the unions into the cylinder needed nipping up. But in the end the system was bled as best as possible given the facilities available in a front garden. Pedal is not wonderful but enough to stop her.. So I will get her booked in for an MoT and tell the garage about the brakes - getting them to bleed using their system if necessary. Just need to finalise the adjusters now.

 

2) She is now sitting on tubeless rims. These still need finishing off with paint in a couple of places and looking at the ones that came off - it seems I have 4 x SWB and 1 x LWB So the question now is this - do I replace the 4 SWB rims with the correct LWB ones Or just accept the SWB ones and merely replace the LWB spare with with a SWB rim?? Decisions, decisions......

 

3) I've totally fooked my back up somehow. Moving is agony!!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Felt like screaming today..... Went through the ISPL the other day and ordered the bolts to hold the heater fan in - according to the ISPL they are 1/4" UNF. Packet arrived from Namrick this morning so out I go to fit the fan in - only to find the damned bolts are too big a dia!!

Looking at the captive nuts on the mounting flanges they bolts are more like 3/16" UNF.

This seems to be another one of those jobs that is cursed from day 1 :( :(

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  • 1 month later...

We now have working brakes again - had to give up and put her into a garage to get the air out. As the MoT was due in a weeks time I got that done at the same time - she passed with no advisories even! First time for that. :)

 

Today as I was stuck at home on dog sitting duties I thought i would do - what I thought would be - the simple job of fitting the heater fan. Cue cynical laughter.

 

To get access the spare had to come off, the bonnet stay disconnected and the hood propped upright. Having had experience in the past I lashed it back with para-cord to the rear rear hitch then unbolted the heter matrix and propped it up out of the way whilst I fitted the fan. Unbeknownst to me the local moron kids thought it was a good lark to undo the para-cord from the hitch and whilst I was trying to work out how the fan went in the wind gusted and dropped the bonnet both on my head and onto the heater matrix. To say I was - and am - pissed is an understatement :mad: :mad:

 

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So now I have to work out how to reform the damaged area so the air ducting can be fitted.

Getting the fan lined up with the holes in the bulk head caused more problems - as you can see in the photo below - there is an armoured cable that runs across where the fan/air seal should sit. Anyone know if that cable is in the right position or if it should be running back down at the rear of the front wing??

 

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Moving the cable aside for a while - if the fan lines up with the holes in the bulkhead then it is sitting right under the wing - is that correct? Hard to find photos of the fan mounted on a FFR 109".

 

So much for the "easy job"!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well.. The good news is the heater blower is now in and the ducting is connected to the heater matrix. I got the blower bolted in after a struggle - only to find it was impossible to get the ducting onto the outlet! After some hard struggling I bit the bullet and unbolted the blower again, twisting it to the outlet pointed to the engine and pushed the busting on, securing the clamp. Surprisingly (to me at least) it was then a lot easier to get the blower bolted back the second time and the ducting stopped it sliding down the wing!! The other end of the ducting was pushed onto the inlet of the heater matrix and the second clamp done up.

Then came the electrical side. Switched on the ignition and put a multi-meter between each of the blower connections to find the slow speed feed. And got a 0v reading on both! Should have known better than to think it would be simple. :laugh:

Turned my attention to the switch so off came the steering wheel and I tried removing the column cowl. Tried being the operative word as one of the two screws that hold the two halves together at the front is turning but not undoing.

So I worked the I/P forwards as far as I could and disconnected the brown/orange lead that is the power feed to the blower switch. Connected the meter between that and earth and turned the ignition back on. Still a 0v reading. So I tried the terminal on the ignition switch - having to fight the cowl aside to do so - and got a +24v reading....

Odd thinks I as the 4 fuses under the column are all intact. So I dug out the Army book and found the early 24v wiring diagram. - finding to my surprise there is an in-line fuse between the ignition switch and the blower switch!!

Sadly the book neither tells you where this is or what the fuse rating should be. I am guessing at this point that it will be another of the glass cartridge 35A ones

So as of now the dash is in parts whilst I try to work out where the hell this in-line fuse can be found. I think on Sunday I might have to try drilling out the retaining screw that won't undo to see if the thing is anywhere under that. Which then probably means I will have to replace the cowl top.

 

Coincidentally I tried the red and black sockets to see if they were live - and also got a 0v reading with the ignition on or off. The wiring diagram for this also shows an in-line fuse so I might as well hunt this out too........

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Minor update - I managed to "persuade" the steering cowl to come off by removing the fuse box section. Once off I had a close look at the screw that would not undo and, as suspected the captive threaded section was just rotating in the plastic moulding, I think if i can get the mole grips to clamp onto this section it might be enough to get the screw out and thus save it. Looking on line the two halves of the cowl are available still - but not cheap - so I think I might have to replace them.

 

With the cowl off and using a torch I can see the fuse holder. What a bloody stupid place to put it!! It is sitting UNDER the bridge of the inner I.P pod thus inaccessible unless the entire I/P is removed. I think, though, I might get away with disconnecting the end of the lead at the switch and tying a length of string to it then pulling the entire lead out from the ignition switch end far enough to access the fuse holder - then using the string to pull the switch end back up into position.

Haven't found the in-line fuse for the banana plugs yet!

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We actually had a dry spell for the first time since Sat afternoon - so ducked out fast to the Landie. Found the in-line fuse for the heater and mangled the hands cracking the holder open and fitting a new 35A cartridge. You'd think the lead from the out side of the fuse holder to the switch would go direct but no - it goes in a taped section of the loom so you cannot pull the fuse holder out from under the pod.

Once it was in and the holder done up again I checked power at the switch end of the Brown/Orange feed and had 24v. Connected it and turned on the switch - nothing. Popped the bonnet and found I'd forgotten to connect the 2 leads from the vehicle into the double female bullet connector - did the ones from the fan motor but not the vehicle side.. Once they were plugged in, I turned power on and the fan started.

With the switch in the off position!!

Flicking it to the on-1 and on-2 positions just turned the fan off. I think the switch might be wired incorrectly. It's as it came with the vehicle so I had no reason till now to question the connections.

Basically there are two terminals at the top of the switch - the Brown/Orange power in lead goes to the R/H one of these. I tried it on the L/H side - no change, Then there are two terminals projecting from the back of the switch with the Green/Yellow and Green/Brown leads on that go to the fan motor - see photo below.

Does anyone know how this switch is actually meant to be connected as I cannot get the dash out far enough to run connectivity checks with a multimeter, nor can I get the switch out of the dash without risk of damage to the dash.

 

20160614_141754_zpsoe06wzhl.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

So- another dry day and a bit more done. The fan is in and working, bit of a lack of output though. I suspect because its a LHD motor and fan in a RHD housing. Whilst thinking on ways of sorting that I got on with a couple of other niggles. The inspection light sockets although showing power would not take the plugs on the light so I ordered replacements from Blanchards (they were cheapest). I also ordered with trepidations a new cowl top cover. When the parts arrived I was pleasantly surprised to find that the top cover was a genuine BL/Landrover part. With the new plugs fitted the inspection lamp now works. That leaves the replacement instrument glass, bezels and seals to arrive and fit - hopefully in the next couple of days. Once that is done I will also run a new feed from the panel light switch to the side light circuit so I can see whats happening at night. :-)

Then the dash can go back together and it will be ready to roll.

I have noticed, though, that there seems to be a increasing amount of frust forming in the footwells - as fast as I treat and paint a patch a couple patches more turn up - I suspect I might be looking at a new buokhead in a year or two.....

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